Gao Yong: New Trend Of Textile Industry Development

Editor's note: the nineteen major reports of the Party pointed out that China's economy has shifted from the high-speed growth stage to the high quality development stage, and is in the key stage of changing development mode, optimizing the economic structure and changing the driving force of growth. This is precisely the development stage of China's textile industry. "The outline of building a textile power" and the "13th Five-Year plan" of the textile industry put forward that the textile power will be basically built by 2020. At the 2019 annual National Conference on the development of chemical fiber filament fabrics and technical innovation seminar, Gao Yong, secretary and Secretary General of the China Textile Industry Federation, made a speech entitled "the new trend of textile industry development". He said that from the specific indicators, in addition to individual indicators lagging behind the world's advanced level, the vast majority of China's textile industry index has been close to or even ahead of the world's advanced level, and the goal of "textile power" has basically been achieved. Facing the coming "14th Five-Year", how to fully realize the high quality development of textile industry in the new historical condition, new era and new development stage is a question that the whole industry should think deeply.

- Gao Yong, party secretary and Secretary General of China Textile Industry Federation

First, the goal of textile power has basically been achieved.

China's textile industry has been in a low growth stage for 3~4 consecutive years. In 2018, the main business income of the whole industry was 53710 billion yuan, up slightly above 5%. Compared with the national economy in the middle and high speed growth stage of about 6%, the main business income, added value and export of the textile industry are at a low level of growth. In recent 40 years, the annual growth rate of fiber consumption in the world is about 3%, slightly higher than that of population growth. In recent 20 years, the average annual growth rate of fiber consumption in China is about 9%.

Although the textile industry has entered a low-speed growth stage, all practitioners in the textile industry have fully realized that low speed growth will be a norm and accelerate the pace of industrial adjustment accordingly. The nineteen major reports of the Party pointed out that China's economy has shifted from the high-speed growth stage to the high quality development stage, and is in the key stage of changing development mode, optimizing the economic structure and changing the driving force of growth. This is precisely the development stage of China's textile industry. According to the requirements of the Party Central Committee on the theme of education activities, we have made some new judgments on the development trend of the textile industry: "the outline of building a textile power" and "13th Five-Year plan", we plan to build a strong textile power by 2020. From the specific indicators, except for a few indicators lagging behind the world's advanced level, most of the indicators are close to or even ahead of the world's advanced level, and the goal of "textile power" has basically been achieved. Facing the coming "14th Five-Year", how to fully realize the high quality development of textile industry in the new historical condition, new era and new development stage is a question that the whole industry should think deeply.

Since April this year, the number of orders has decreased, product prices have dropped and inventories have increased. I think that the main reason for the above phenomenon is the market wait-and-see caused by Sino US trade friction and the fact that international buyers are not placing orders. Generally speaking, enterprises can receive annual orders in the 4~5 months of the year, but this year, international buyers did not make the order as scheduled. So far, many enterprises' orders have only been in August and September, and late orders have not been determined, which has caused panic in enterprises. The backlog of fabrics, the backlog of raw materials, and the decline in raw material prices are only temporary phenomena, and are the performance of the market in the wait-and-see stage.

Two, continue to promote the "two adjustments".

The impact of Sino US trade friction is temporary and short-term. But in the long run, we must change the mode of industrial development based on exports and achieve the high quality development of the textile industry. This requires us to continue to advance the "two adjustments".

1. regional structural adjustment

The first is international structural adjustment, that is, labor-intensive, export oriented capacity transfer to low cost countries and low cost areas. This part has been developing rapidly in the past few years, especially the clothing industry. Garment export has changed from original rapid growth to zero growth or even negative growth. The export proportion of clothing and textiles is close to 50: 50, and this proportion is expected to reach 1: 1 within this year. The total export volume of textile and clothing in 2018 is US $276 billion 700 million. If we add ninety-fourth chapters (mattress, sleeping bags and other bedding) in the statistics of textile and clothing import and export, the export volume will exceed US $280 billion, up 3.69% over the same period last year. The 3.69% growth is mainly driven by textile exports. By April this year, the total growth rate of textile and garment exports decreased by about 3%, of which clothing exports were about 8% down. It can be seen that on the one hand, China's garment production capacity has basically been transferred to industries in Southeast Asia and South Asia. On the other hand, China's textile exports to Southeast Asia, Africa and other regions have increased rapidly.

There are two reasons for the transfer of international capacity: one is the economic trend, and the labor-intensive industries are always moving towards low cost areas, just like the transfer of the US, Japan, Korea and Taiwan to mainland China 20 years ago. International purchasers take orders as chips, requiring enterprises to set up factories in South Asia, Southeast Asia and Africa to speed up the transfer. The two is the promotion of the "one belt and one way" initiative in China, which speeds up the outward transfer of production capacity. At present, the regional structural adjustment is rapidly extending from the garment industry to the textile industry.

The second is domestic structural adjustment. In the past, more than 86% of China's textile and garment industries concentrated in five coastal provinces, namely, Guangdong, Fujian, Zhejiang, Jiangsu and Shandong. The China Textile Industry Federation has been committed to the adjustment of the domestic industrial structure for a long time. From the "11th Five-Year plan" period, the textile production capacity began to shift westward. During the "13th Five-Year" period, according to the request of the Central Committee to speed up the transfer of the textile and garment industry to Xinjiang, we promoted the textile production capacity to enter Xinjiang. In the past few years, Xinjiang's cotton spinning spindles increased by 18 million spindles, and achieved results.

In recent years, with the rapid upgrading of China's economic level, domestic sales have become the main force to support the textile economy and drive the sustainable development of China's textile industry. Against this background, the textile production capacity of the central region began to increase, such as Henan, Hunan and Anhui, and the Yangtze River Delta region has a faster transfer speed, such as the transfer of South of Jiangsu production capacity to northern Jiangsu. It is worth noting that the CPC Central Committee recently approved the development plan for the Yangtze River Delta region. In the new development plan, the textile and garment industry is still a key development industry in the Yangtze River Delta region, and it has been included in the policy of "accelerating the transfer of advantageous industries in the Yangtze River Delta region".

The annual product conference held in Siyang, Jiangsu, is also an effort to promote the transfer of the filament weaving industry to Siyang, Suqian and other regions and optimize the industrial structure. Industrial transfer is a trend. It is also a work that everybody is discussing and participating in. Only by gradually adjusting the regional structure can the textile and garment industry develop better.

2. adjustment of industrial structure and product mix

Besides the adjustment of regional structure, the adjustment of industrial structure and product structure is also continuing to push forward. For example, in view of the low proportion of China's industrial textiles in the whole industry, the "11th Five-Year plan" put forward: we must vigorously develop industrial textiles, strive to achieve "17%" at the end of 11th Five-Year, and point out the key tasks and categories of industrial textiles. The "13th Five-Year plan" pointed out that by 2020, the proportion of textile fiber processing industry accounted for 33% of the total industry. From 2018, the proportion of industrial textiles has accounted for 28% of the situation. By 2020, the target of 33% can basically be achieved. The structure and industrial upgrading of industrial textiles have achieved some success. In the past, apart from clothing and home textiles, the rest belonged to industrial textiles. Therefore, the categories of industrial textiles are very wide. We have focused on 8 types of development, and they have also developed well.

Three, filament products are dominant in textiles.

Filament textiles have a long history in China. Historically, Chinese like silk fabrics, while Europeans prefer linen textiles. When the cotton fiber rises, the world's textiles are mainly cotton. However, in the past few decades, natural fibers have not increased much. At present, the world's cotton production is about 25 million tons, and wool production is about 1 million 100 thousand tons ~120 million tons. It is estimated that cotton and wool production will remain the same for a long time. Judging from the present situation, there will not be much growth in natural fibers in the future.

At present, the total output of the world's fiber is about about 90000000 tons, and it is expected to reach 1 billion tons by 2020. 70% of the output of about 90000000 tons of fiber is chemical fiber, about 65 million tons, of which chemical fiber is about about 40000000 tons. It can be seen that chemical fibers are dominated by filament. Most of the world's about 40000000 tons of chemical fiber yarns are produced in China. According to the statistics of the China Federation of textile industry, the processing volume of China's chemical fiber filament has reached about 30000000 tons in 2018.

Chemical fiber filament has advantages of shorter technological process and lower price than short fiber. It is widely used in woven fabrics, knitted fabrics and non-woven fabrics. Over the past two years, the development of a fast molding shoe upper, a molding underwear, melt spinning, melt blown weaving non-woven fabrics, raw materials are chemical filament yarn; almost all the carpet materials in the United States are BCF filament; many home textile products, such as curtains, are basically chemical filament products. The above examples show that chemical fiber filament products have played a leading role in textiles and will play a more important role. The development of the world's textile industry will also rely on the chemical fiber filament weaving industry.

Our research on chemical filament has gone through a long process of development. Initially, efforts were made to improve the diameter of fibers, achieving the change from coarse denier, fine denier to ultra fine denier, and then working on improving shape, such as increasing water absorption, increasing surface area and making hollow and pore for thermal insulation. Now we are committed to modifying and hybrids of filaments, making them more and more close to natural fibers. In the face of the continuous evolution and development of chemical filament, enterprises also attach great importance to the development and post processing of filament fabrics. We have improved the fabric style by twisting, twisting, and adding elastic fibers, and made unique structural design, special dyeing and finishing process for the filament fabrics, making the chemical filament products continuously innovated.

Four, development trend of filament weaving industry

Application of 1. air-jet looms in filament weaving industry

At the end of the European international textile machinery exhibition, we see that many new equipment and new technologies are oriented to chemical fiber filament weaving industry. International advanced equipment manufacturers have focused their attention on the weaving industry of chemical fiber, indicating that this is indeed an industry with good prospects for development.

At present, the main production equipment of the filament weaving industry is the water jet loom, which is due to the high speed and low price of the water jet loom, which makes the cost of the rice cloth very low. But in the face of the requirements of green, environmental protection and water saving, there is still demand for air-jet looms in the whole industry. If the overall price and production cost of air-jet looms can be reduced or even close to that of water jet looms, air-jet looms are likely to make a great contribution to the filament weaving industry and become a trend that can not be ignored in the development of the industry.

2. weaving process automation is an important topic of textile intellectualization.

The intellectualization of weaving system has become the mainstream of textile machinery manufacturing. In the past, the automation and intellectualization of single machine have been basically realized: single machine automation such as warping, sizing and other textile processes can basically be realized; for example, the thickness of the cotton spinning, the integration of thin and parallel links, the intelligent spinning demonstration line, etc., the production efficiency can reach 10 workers in ten thousand spindles; some enterprises are trying to use the automatic joint of spinning frame. Now, the most difficult thing is the automation and intellectualization of weaving process, that is, how to connect warping, sizing, and automatic joining, buckle and automatic operation in series after weaving, is the difficulty of weaving automation, and is also a problem that must be solved in the future intellectualization.

At present, Bill's automatic wear machine, knot warping machine, Tsuda Ko's sizing machine, pulp yarn machine, Carle Mayer's warping machine are all the best advanced textile equipment in the world. It is necessary for us to combine the leading textile enterprises and advanced textile machinery enterprises in the world to explore the automation and intellectualization of looms and strive to make some practical achievements.

During the "13th Five-Year" period, the textile industry federation launched six intelligent production lines for the textile industry, including the spinning intelligent production line, the knitting intelligent production line, the printing and dyeing intelligent production line, the non-woven intelligent production line, the polyester filament intelligent production line and the garment sewing automatic production line. Among them, the intelligent production line of spinning, polyester filament, non-woven fabric and garment sewing has been basically mature and can be popularized in small quantities, but knitting and printing and dyeing are more complex, some of which are still in the wiring, and have not fully realized automation. During the "14th Five-Year" period, we will put forward higher requirements for intelligent production: first, we should actively promote the already mature production lines; secondly, besides the six lines that have been launched and have been produced in small quantities during the "13th Five-Year" period, we will introduce some new contents, such as the intellectualization of weaving process. This is a question that requires entrepreneurs and experts to ponder together. I believe the filament weaving Association will also seek advice when preparing the "14th Five-Year plan".

During the "14th Five-Year" period, the textile industry is likely to continue to develop at a low speed, hoping that the whole industry can grow at a low speed. This growth is not for every enterprise to grow, every industry is growing, nor is every region growing, but a constantly adjusted growth. Some areas will be reduced, some areas will go up, some enterprises will be closed, and some enterprises will be bigger. In this low speed adjustment process, the improvement of technology level and the improvement of production efficiency are our ultimate goal. The value added per capita of the textile industry can reach the advanced level of the world. Our textile power is stable and can be maintained.