Gao Yong: Opening Up A New Era Of Inheritance And Development Of Textile Heritage

The third China Textile intangible cultural heritage conference held in November 3rd, the China Textile Industry Federation Party committee secretary Gao Yong delivered a keynote speech on the theme of opening up a new era of inheritance and development of textile heritage. Textile and clothing weekly published the original speech in order to provide readers.

Opening up a new era of inheritance and development of textile Heritage

Party committee of China Textile Industry Federation secretary Gao Yong

November 3, 2019

The third China Textile intangible cultural heritage Conference

　　 Today we convene the third China Textile intangible cultural heritage conference at the beautiful Yunnan Kunming college. At this session, there are a number of important historical nodes. We celebrate the 70th anniversary of new China in the whole country and the socialism with Chinese characteristics has entered a new era. The major social contradictions have shifted to the contradiction between the growing demand for better life and the imbalance and inadequate development of the people. On the basis of realizing a well-off society in an all-round way in 2020, China has begun to work towards a socialist modern power. From the perspective of the textile industry, the goal of textile power has basically been achieved. Further consolidating the competitive advantage of the industry, promoting the development of the industry towards high quality and realizing the new expectation of people's better life have become the main strategic objectives and tasks of the textile industry in the new era, and the textile intangible heritage undertaking will also enter a new era, providing important cultural soft power support for the further transformation and upgrading of the industry and the realization of the future strategic objectives.

　　 To this end, the main task of this conference is to explore the strategic plan and work idea of "opening up a new era of inheritance and development of textile heritage". Next, I will focus on two points for discussion. 　　

　　 Remarkable achievements have been made in the textile and heritage industry. And main problems

　　 The achievements are summed up in three aspects as follows:

　　 First, the direction of the textile intangible heritage undertaking is clear and the good ecological environment has begun to take shape. The spirit of the Central Committee and the state ministries and commissions on carrying forward the fine traditional Chinese culture and revitalizing the traditional arts has become a guiding ideology and action guide for textile intangible cultural heritage work. The textile heritage work has effectively linked with the relevant national strategy implementation, and has played a positive role in the integration of tourism and tourism, the poverty alleviation and revitalization of the countryside, the promotion of consumption upgrading, and the construction of "one belt and one road". Textile intangible heritage, as an important part of China's intangible cultural heritage, embodies the essence of history and culture of textile, dyeing, weaving, embroidery and printing handicraft and national costumes, and has gained increasing attention from all walks of life. government Departments, industry organizations, enterprises and institutions, design and brand organizations, institutions of higher learning, and news media have recognized the importance and urgency of the inheritance and development of textile intangible heritage. They have played their respective roles and formed a resultant force. The development of textile intangible heritage has begun to form a good social and industrial atmosphere. Especially, colleges and universities have made a great number of explorations and innovations in discipline construction, investigation and research, research and training, and design convergence, providing certain human resources for textile non Heritage enterprises.

　　 Two, textile heritage industry is gradually forming a chain of inheritance and promotion system. Non heritage inheritors and heritage groups, heritage conservation and research institutions, fashion design and brand operation, capital injection and park construction, social charity activities, industry exhibition and fashion week, etc., through various ways of transmission and integration of resources, gradually form a chain of textile heritage and diversity, and jointly promote the development of textile heritage industry. In particular, designer groups go deep into rural fields to acquire a large number of non heritage elements, and strive to integrate traditional techniques with modern fashion design. The textile heritage has been closely integrated with poverty alleviation, expansion of employment and Rural Revitalization in many minority areas, and has played an active role in bringing benefits and dignity to tens of thousands of left behind women and craftsmen. People's awareness of textile non heritage products has also been improved. Through exhibitions, fashion releases, on-site experiences, business promotion, network sales, etc., on many marketing platforms, they enjoy both spiritual enjoyment and material taste.

　　 Three, China Textile Federation has made remarkable progress in its work. As an important category of non heritage and a national conference organized by industry organizations, the annual non Heritage Convention has become an important platform for displaying the achievements of textile heritage development and exchanging ideas. The voice issued by the conference has the function of weathervane, and the Promotion Ambassador has become the spokesman and leader of the textile Heritage industry. The conference has become a brand activity in the industry. China International Fashion Week and "Splendid China" fashion show has become the commanding height of the integration and development of textile traditional crafts and modern fashion design. In Beijing, Shanghai, Dalian, Chaozhou and other places to hold exhibitions of various textile intangible cultural heritage, promote the marketization process of traditional craft products and move towards modern life, and get the height of inside and outside the industry. follow And good reviews. Attach importance to field investigation of textile intangible heritage, and go to Tibet, Yunnan, Guizhou, Hunan, Chongqing, Inner Mongolia and other places. follow In ethnic minority areas, we should find out the survival and development status of the grass-roots population and find the focal points for the work. government In order to revitalize the traditional craft, the Department has made suggestions for its achievements in the innovation and Entrepreneurship of the embroidery industry in Inner Mongolia. To compile and publish the "development report on China's textile intangible cultural heritage", which contains the historical development process of the textile industry's intangible heritage and the imprint of the Sino Textile Federation's intangible heritage. Actively coordinating the academic research work of Chaoxiu traditional craft, organizing the domestic authoritative experts to compile the exclusive monograph of Chao embroidery history, culture and techniques, which will be officially published by the China Textile publishing house, providing a template for studying other textile traditional skills.

　　 While affirming the achievements, we should see that there are still many problems that need to be explored and solved. 主要有：如何結合行業實際更加有效推動紡織非遺事業實現創造性轉化、創新性發展，科學而合理地解決“守”與“變”的辯證關系；紡織傳統工藝的基礎性研究尚有許多空白需要填補，客觀系統研究、挖掘紡織非遺的本真性和現代傳承發展的文化與經濟價值；非遺傳統工藝融入現代服飾、家居用品、文化旅游、藝術創造等系列化產品設計開發有待進一步拓展；如何建立紡織非遺傳承鏈條中各相關方的合作和經濟協調機制，進而打通并穩定可持續運行這個鏈條需要深入探討和實踐；非遺設計展示多而消費少，非遺國際文化交流多而貿易少，非遺紡織類產品的市場渠道還不暢通，消費動力顯得不足；紡織非遺保護傳承事業發展不平衡，尚未形成東西部地區資源稟賦不同而應實現互補性發展的格局。

　　 The above problems are the main problems in the development of textile non genetic businesses, some of which are common problems similar to those of other industries. Of course, we can not be confused or frustrated because of these problems or problems. We must firmly develop the confidence of the textile heritage industry and continue to move forward to meet the new era of inheritance and development of textile heritage. 　　

　　 Two, seize development opportunities. Opening up a new era of inheritance and development of textile Heritage

　　 Taking a comprehensive look at the overall situation of the state and industry, our textile heritage industry is at many important historical nodes, facing many important development opportunities and the starting point of our work. Specifically, there are generally four aspects worth considering. follow :

　　 First, China's economic and social development has entered a new era, with high emphasis on cultural self-confidence, the promotion of fine traditional culture and the expectation of a better life for the people. This should be the fundamental purpose and strategic pursuit of the development of textile intangible heritage. Textile intangible cultural heritage should become a dazzling civilization flower of China's non HERITAGE family. In the process of entering the new era, China will keep pace with the times to play the role of beautifying life, decorating the world and pursuing fashion. It will build up the traditional culture of the root system, highlight the wisdom and wisdom of modern life, and provide the material carrier and spiritual home for the people's good wishes.

　　 Second. China's textile industry has become an industry with worldwide influence. Recently, Zhou Ji, the former dean of the Chinese Academy of engineering, introduced the "China industrial chain safety assessment report" by the Chinese Academy of engineering. It has been mentioned that after the international comparative analysis, the five major industries of textile and communications equipment, advanced rail transit, transmission and transformation equipment and household electrical appliances are rated as the world's leading industries, which is basically consistent with the level of development reached by our industry. Entering the new era, we are no longer the so-called traditional labor-intensive industries. "Technology, fashion and green" have become the new positioning of the textile industry. The three complement each other and become one. The fashion should be integrated with traditional culture and traditional technology to have "foundation" and "soul". The leading position of the world is not just manufacturing lead, culture should also be recognized by the world. Textile Heritage enterprises should make a special contribution to this mission.

　　 Third. The industrial resources and social support system for the inheritance and development of textile heritage has begun to take shape. Only by unifying the objectives of opening and entering the new era, coordinating the operation system and the economic mechanism, and building up a platform for interdependence and co promotion, will the textile intangible heritage industry be able to work with the state, society and textile industry, and develop with the strong textile industry, so as to help maintain the leading position in the world, the textile intangible heritage industry will be more dazzling.

　　 Fourth. With the full completion of a well-off society, people's consumption of culture will increase day by day. With the increasing awareness of cultural self-confidence and the aesthetic and functional orientation of intangible heritage products, the traditional technology of consumer goods will become an important source of consumption trends. Textile non heritage consumer goods are closely related to people's daily life. There are many categories, wide distribution and large demand. The traditional technology is easy to combine with modern fashion design, and the market space may expand in the fields of dress, home, tourism, literature and art, and so on. The consumption from spiritual and material level will increasingly become the main driving force for the development of textile intangible heritage. The development opportunities described above provide an important prerequisite for opening up the new era of inheritance and development of textile heritage. The implementation of the nineteen major reports of the party "carrying forward the Chinese traditional fine culture must adhere to the creative transformation and innovative development" is the guiding principle for the development of the textile legacy industry in the new era. government And the community attaches great importance to the good atmosphere of the protection and inheritance of intangible cultural heritage, the textile industry must further respond positively to the national call and social synchronization. government Under the guidance and policy support of the competent departments, we must work together with the relevant agencies to promote the close integration of textile heritage in traditional culture and real production and life. In order to carry out the dream of "technology, fashion and green" as a textile power and consolidate the leading industrial position in the world, we should further deepen the work of non heritage work, and strive to open up a new era of inheritance and development of textile heritage.

　　 As a coordinating service institution for non heritage businesses, China Federation of textile industry will, on the basis of summing up its past practice and practice, give full play to its resources and platform advantages, and actively explore effective ways to open up a new era of inheritance and development of textile heritage.

　　 First, We should enhance the consciousness, practicality and foresight of implementing the concept of "creative transformation and innovative development", and include the inheritance and development of textile heritage into the industry "ten". Four or five "The compilation of the plan, combined with the macro policies of the state's non heritage work and the general requirements for the development of the industry, puts forward the direction, tasks and measures for the development of the non heritage businesses in the industry, which are the basic principles and guidelines for the inheritance and development of the industry's intangible heritage.

　　 Second. Under the conditions of actively coordinating cultural departments, scientific research institutes and universities to study and protect traditional textile heritage technology, we should give full play to the resources integration advantages of industries and enterprises, and strive to build the heritage chain, economic mechanism and market operation system of the integration development of traditional textile technology and fashion design, modern technology, production and processing, and channel construction, so as to achieve the docking between the resources of the source and the terminal's life and consumption, and truly achieve "seeing people, seeing things and seeing life", so as to realize the living inheritance of textile production and production.

　　 Third. We should further play the platform advantages of the industry expo and fashion week, lead the fashion trend of combining intangible heritage with modern life, encourage designers and brand enterprises to take the responsibility and mission of inheriting traditional culture and crafts, and strive to create integrated non heritage elements and produce, circulate and eliminate textile and intangible brand products, satisfy people's spiritual and material needs for traditional culture, and promote the unity of cultural value and economic value of textile intangible cultural heritage.

　　 Fourth. In view of the fact that most of the textile intangible heritage resources are distributed in ethnic minority areas, the Western Ethnic provinces are more concentrated and need more help and resource input, though some are not. government Organizations, public welfare foundations and enterprisers with moral integrity have done a lot of work. But as a national industry organization, we should attach great importance to and actively promote the protection and inheritance of the textile heritage of ethnic minorities, and help to accurately help the poor and revitalize the countryside, so as to fully demonstrate the social responsibility and public spirit of the textile Heritage enterprises.

　　 Fifth. To promote the cross border integration of textile intangible cultural heritage and cultural tourism, arts and crafts, home decoration, folk wedding, film and TV shows and other related industries and cultural and creative enterprises, with the help of "one belt and one road" construction and foreign cultural and economic and trade exchanges, we will spread the history and brilliance of the Chinese textile heritage industry, enhance the brand awareness in the world, build and consolidate the protection and inheritance system of traditional Chinese culture and traditional crafts, tell the story of textile, spread the wind and color of textile, and make contributions to the textile industry.

　　 Comrades and friends, let us, in line with the strategic deployment of the party and the state to carry forward the fine traditional culture of the Chinese nation and revitalize the traditional technology, closely combine the overall requirements of the development of the textile industry, advance with the times, push forward, seek truth and pragmatism, and work together to make unremitting efforts to open up the new era of textile inheritance.