Hainan Li Brocade: "Living Fossil" Of China'S Textile Industry

From the white village of Datian town in Dongfang City, Hainan to the world fashion capital, Paris, the 54 year old Li nationality woman, VIN Lin, crossed the distance by virtue of her superb traditional brocade brocade weaving skills. In September this year, Fu Lin, as a national inheritor of Li Jin's handicraft, walked into the Paris headquarters building of UNESCO, showing the world's 3000 year history of Li brocade embroidery techniques.

The Li nationality is a unique minority in Hainan Island. Archaeology confirmed that Li people settled in Hainan 3000 years ago. The spinning, dyeing, weaving and embroidering methods used in their costumes are one of the oldest cotton dyeing and embroidery techniques in China and the world, and are called "living fossils" in the textile industry.

Mo Qing Qiao, director of the intangible cultural heritage protection center of Hainan Province, said that 3000 years ago, the Li people used the bark and kapok textile clothes. More than 2000 years ago, the Li nationality "wide spread cloth" was designated as the "year Gong" treasure by the royal family in the Western Han Dynasty. After thousands of years of inheritance and development, Li brocade has changed from the necessity of protecting the cold to the elegant and precious works of art.

Tim Curtis, the representative of the UNESCO headquarters Living Heritage Office, praised Li Jin's unique skills, simple and elegant style and rich cultural connotation. It is currently one of the most difficult and highest cultural works in textile handicrafts.

First, the production of Li Brocade is spinning, the main tools are hand twist spinning wheel, pedal spinning wheel and so on. "I learned to spin with my grandmother when I was 9 years old. After 45 years of practice, I could spin out the thick, compact, compact cotton ingots." Fu Lin demonstrated as early as he spoke while twisting the spinning wheel with his hands.

After spinning, the line is dyed. The commonly used dyed raw materials of Li nationality are wild chestnut skins, hematoxylin, Huang Jiangjing, maple bark, leaf millet and Lonicera leaf. The most unique dyeing process is dyed dyeing. This ancient cotton weaving process is a complex technique characterized by "dyeing through the warp".

Fu Lin told reporters earlier that "dyed dyeing" is to treat the white line as the end. The two ends are fixed on the rack, and then the black line is used to tie up various patterns on the white meridian. Then the coil is removed, dyed, dried and striped, and then it can be woven into the waist to weave the floating dyed fabric. Fu Lin said earlier that it would take one year to build a cloth with a length of about 160 centimeters on an artificial basis, and if it was finished again, it would take a year, and it would be time consuming and energy consuming.

Into the Li brocade weaving workshop of Baisha Li Autonomous County, a group of Li nationality "Weaver girls" dressed in traditional costumes sit on pins and pins in the ground, embroidering patterns, frogs, dragons, deer stripes and Hercules stripes on a piece of white cloth. All kinds of patterns are available. The provincial intangible cultural heritage Fu Xiuying, the representative successor of Li embroidery, is teaching young people embroidery techniques.

"Embroidery is one of the production techniques of Li brocade. The traditional embroidery of Li nationality has two sides: one side embroidery and two sided embroidery. The white sand double embroidered is famous for its exquisite and exquisite skills, exquisite and beautiful patterns and colors, and is unique in Li Jin." Moqing bridge introduces that embroidery is directly embroidered out of the picture in mind. Double sided embroidery is also called embroidery without manuscript.

There are more than 100 kinds of double-sided embroidery patterns created by Fu Xiuying, which embodies the primitive nature worship, ancestor worship and totem worship of Li nationality.

Fu Xiuying introduced a long and double embroidered 167 and 40 centimeter long and embroidered double faced embroidery, which needs half a year's production. The price is RMB 68000 yuan. A jacket made of handmade weave on industrial line, plus two sided embroidered pattern decoration, is priced at around 8000 yuan; if it is entirely hand spinning, dyed, woven, woven and embroidered, the price will be around RMB 20 thousand yuan.

Today, Fu Xiuying sells Li Jin and double sided embroidery in the form of micro shop. Last year, there were millions of orders. Now, more than 80 brocade brocade embroidery cooperatives have been formed, and various training activities are held regularly, so that local women can make a comfortable life by skillful hand weaving.

In order to better protect the world-class intangible cultural heritage of Li brocade skills, Hainan has invested about 70000000 yuan to build 5 300 square meters of study hall, 148 mu of raw material production and production base, 16 Li brocade heritage villages, 62 primary and secondary schools offering brocade skills to enter the School Park practice classes, 4 secondary and secondary schools undertaking training and training for the training group, more than 10000 students enrolled in the study, and less than 1000 of the weaver girls declared in 2009 to nearly 20000 people.

Mo Qing Qiao said that the Li brocade brocade was the first to achieve computerized technology layout and pattern design not long ago, which provided technical support for Li Jin's protection, development and innovation, and played a positive role in mining and promoting Li brocade culture.