The 15 Most Noteworthy Designers In 2020

Nowadays, creative leaders who want to become a large fashion company may not necessarily have a broad and star influence. Top brand executives and many business brands are giving more opportunities to designers who are not yet potential designers, whether they are foreign or domestic.
In the western fashion world, you can easily find examples of recent big brands' preference for new people. Bottega Veneta's Daniel Lee served as a garment director in Celine and worked under Phoebe Philo. Lanvin's Bruno Sialelli has worked for Loewe Jonathan Anderson and has accumulated a good reputation in the industry. Daniel Roseberry of Schiaparelli is a veteran of Thom Browne. Marni's Francesco Risso follows Miuccia Prada for a long time. As a long-term partner and studio director of Karl Lagerfeld, Virginie Viard has made Chanel's brand characteristics inherit and continue to maximize its impact on brands after the death of Lagerfeld.
Of course, the anecdote of the brand "second in command" "successful entrepreneurship" is as old as modern fashion, such as the rise of Christian Dior's Yves Saint Laurent, and the Phoebe Philo, which replaced Chlo McCartney's creative director Stella McCartney.
But the faster the pace of the world, the faster the success, the bet is big enough. Designers like Virgil Abloh or Demna Gvasalia bring their loyal followers to their brands: Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga benefit from Virgil and Demna fans' attention respectively.
But it is also good to choose a person who is totally out of public view. Many designers who have many years of studio experience have played different roles, and have accumulated strong professional skills and management skills. The cost of employment is often lower than that of star designers.
Jean Vigneron, partner of Agent Secret of Paris headhunting company, told BoF: "I don't want to find a superstar who is overpriced. I want to find a talented person to take him or her out of the shadow of a star designer."
To become a current creative director, designers need strong media and marketing skills, business acumen (and ability to maintain good relations with CEOs) and clear design genes.
Mathias Ohrel, founder of recruitment company m-O Conseil, said: "we have observed that more and more creative directors come from the field of accessories, because for some brands, accessories business has the largest share."
Agn s s Barret, founder of Agent Secret, believes that jewelry designers have the unique ability to become a successful creative director, because they possess excellent professional skills and strong visual touch. For example, handbag experts can not only bring effective marketing strategies, but also bring new perspective of creativity.
In the final analysis, the strong aesthetic touch with the fashion house concept is the most important factor for the brand. For every designer he recruited, the goal of Barret is to "identify innovative talents that prove fashion is not natural." She said: "the fashion industry we are in is no longer the industry that determines the trend of five people."
In China, fashion and even broader markets are looking forward to new designers. Chinese young designers who come out of the western major fashion week, Shanghai fashion week and Labelhood, Fast East and other creative incubators have become famous through their own businesses or cooperation with big brands, and even found new career development directions (such as Angel that works with H&M). Chan designer Chen Anqi has just gained more popularity in Netflix's reality show, and Sankuanz founder Shangguan Zhe is also currently a trend magazine "Yoho!" Editor in chief.
China's local commercial and non fashion brands also want to become their "Bole" when the best designers start out. The future "more hopeful" candidate, perhaps beyond the outstanding creative and aesthetic vision, should also have the experience of designing studio at home and abroad, as well as keen commercial sense of smell and familiarity with the supply chain and market.
Who will play the leading role in 2020? Here, I summarize the emerging talents who are looking at fashion headhunters and executives at home and abroad.
Ilaria Icardi (Victoria Beckham)
Icardi has been hailed as a potential replacement for Celine's creative director. From 2008 to 2013, she worked as a design director under Phoebe Philo. Icardi's career began with Yves Saint Laurent, where she served as a senior designer for 7 years. The current Victoria Beckham design director plays a key role in shaping the brand's aesthetic simplicity and continues to gain commentaries. Icardi is good at fluency and fashion cutting. Besides, she is experienced in working with large and small studios, which makes her suitable for the role of creative director.
Martina Tiefenthaler (Balenciaga)
Tiefenthaler first learned graphic design in Munich, and later applied to University of the Applied Arts in Vienna from the German fashion designer Bernard Willhelm, University. Tiefenthaler's fashion career began with Maison Martin Margiela, where she worked as a dress designer and designed the 2012 H&M joint series. She also met Demna Gvasalia at Maison Martin Margiela, followed him to Louis Vuitton for three years, and worked with him in Balenciaga in 2017. As the design director of Balenciaga's men's clothing series, handbags, shoes, accessories and glasses, she plays a vital role in this fashion house. Now the question is, is she ready to walk out of the shadow of Gvasalia?
Adrian Appiolaza (Loewe)
Appiolaza working in Paris, like Yvan Mispelaere, was once a member of the Philo Chlo design team when she was in office. They were invited to the curtain at the 2006 autumn winter fashion show. After working for Prada and Louis Vuitton, Appiolaza returned to Chlo for the design director of Clare Waight Keller. The tattoo Argentinean is currently the design director of the Loewe women's clothing team. He has a fairly large archive, collecting designs from Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Gar ons, Junya Watanabe, etc. (he will publish relevant content on his Instagram account).
Yvan Mispelaere (Valentino)
In 1989, Mispelaere began to assist Lanvin Claude Montana, head of women's clothing series. After serving as assistant to Montana for five years, the French designer joined Valentino and began his first job in this fashion house. He has accumulated a wealth of expertise and skills in Prada, Gucci, Chlo, and Celine, and replaced Diane Von Furstenberg as creative director from 2010 to 2012 (Von Furstenberg left the brand 48 hours after the last show in New York fashion week). The 51 year old designer is now working with Pierpaolo Piccioli as director of fashion design for Valentino.
Fabio Zambernardi (Prada and Miu Miu)
Zambernardi is currently the design director of the two brands of Prada and Miu Miu. He has been holding this position since 2002. Zambernardi has been a designer of footwear series since 1997, and has been a fashion designer (Fashion Coordinator) since 1999. He spent most of her career in Prada group. Today, he works with Miuccia Prada to develop a new series and is fully responsible for brand strategy, research, product image and design and development of all fashion series.
Michael Rider (Ralph Lauren)
The graduate of Brown University has served as a senior designer for four years under Balenciaga Nicolas Ghesqui re, and then joined Celine, working with Phoebe Philo for nearly nine years. In 2018, Rider was appointed senior vice president and creative director of Polo garment business of Ms. Ralph Lauren, responsible for upgrading the medium priced product line. The reason why this American company is competent for creative leaders and has broad career prospects is also due to his apprenticeship to Philo.
Frances Howie (Stella McCartney)
The New Zealand designer graduated from the central Saint Martin School of art and design in London in 2006 with a master's degree in women's clothing, where she was one of the most influential mentors in the fashion industry, the late Louise Wilson. From 2006 to 2009, just graduated from University, she served as Lanvin Alber Elbaz's design assistant. In 2009, she joined Stella McCartney, and currently serves as the designer of the brand. Stella McCartney avant-garde aesthetics has attracted the attention of LVMH, the world's largest luxury goods group (LVMH started holding a minority stake in the brand last year), so the brand with strong environmental and social awareness has attracted various design talents.
Matthieu Blazy
In 2007, Blazy graduated from the Belgian La Cambre fashion school, then joined Raf Simons and served the brand until 2011. He then went to Maison Martin Margiela to serve as the design director of the senior custom series Artisanal, and later was responsible for the senior garment design. At the end of 2015, Blazy joined Celine, a Phoebe Philo executive, and served as a senior designer. In 2016, she joined Calvin Klein as vice president of design, responsible for women's wear and men's wear series (and working with Raf Simons again). In January 2019, he left the US brand at the same time when he left Simons. It is understood that Blazy is now free from the shackles of the competition agreement, laying the foundation for further development of the next career as a creative director.
Tang Dayun (Gar C on By G C ogcn)
Tang Da Yun graduated from the Studio Ber ot ot fashion design major in Paris. After graduation, she joined Maison Margiela as a design work. She once designed a custom dress for Rihanna (Rihanna) and Kate Blanchett (Cate Blanchett) to attend the Met Gala dinner and Oscar activities. In 2017, he founded the personal brand Gar on By Gar on, which used the inspiration, style and structure of European Middle Ages in modern men's clothing, and brought a different tone and style in the domestic men's wear designer brand.
Ma Ming (Ming Ma)
The designer first studied the accounting profession, and later transferred to London Central Saint Martin to learn the design course of women's wear. Later, he won a full scholarship from Lane Crawford and continued to study for master's degree courses, followed by Louise Wilson. During school, he participated in the J.Crew x CSM cooperation project and won the champion of design project in one fell swoop. After graduating in 2016, he worked in Tristate Group as the main designer of women's wear. In 2018, he founded the personal name brand Ming Ma in Shanghai, explaining the contemporary elegant women's dress with color, fabric texture and profile. His works have been popular in many fashion magazines, and won the new strength award during the fashion week in Shanghai, and won the support of Visa.
Dan Xiaoming (M Super Avenir)
M Super Avenir 2020 spring and summer series press conference photo source: Instagram account @msuperavenir
Dan Xiaoming graduated from the central Saint Martin School of art and design in London. He won the special Creative Award in the 2017 Saint Martin graduation conference with the interlaced color 2D "graphics" fashion series. He became the first Chinese designer to win the award and was named the top ten young designer in 2017 by the Italy version of Vogue. In 2018, Dan Xiaoming founded the personal brand M Super Avenir, continuing to explore the relationship between human body and two-dimensional graphics.
Yin Jingwei (Oude Waag)
Yin Jingwei, from Chengdu, graduated from London Central Saint Martin's women's costume design course, and then received a master's degree in women's costume design from Royal College of Art, England. During her reading, she worked in Haider Ackermann, Chalayan and other brands. In 2017, he published the MA graduation work "contradictory records" in London Fashion Week and was selected as Vogue Italia "Vogue Talents 2017". In the same year, he founded a personal brand. Yin Jingwei uses fashion to research and explore the relationship between intelligence, thinking, clothing and body, and uses flowing drooping, innovative fabrics and low-key details to intimate intimate feelings.
Fang Yannan (Susan Fang)
Fang Yannan grew up in Canada and the United States, then moved to London. In 2015, she graduated from the central Saint Martin Art Institute in London. She worked as an intern and worked in Celine, Stella McCartney and Kei Kagami. In 2017, she founded the same name brand Susan Fang. In 2018, she won the Fashion Scout "Ones to Watch" award and hosted the first fashion show in London Fashion week. She has been awarded the 2019 LVMH Prize Young Designer Award, becoming one of the two Chinese designers in the 20 group of semi finalists. The young designer, who is known for his transparent "bead bag", hopes to use fashion to explore mathematical geometry and the perception of the world, with the use of "air braiding" and other innovative fabrics, colors and rhythms. Her works have been sold at famous retailers such as Browns and Selfidges.
Wang Yuhan (Yuhan Wang)
Wang Yuhan came from Weihai, Shandong. She first studied fashion design at Tsinghua University, then transferred to College of Visual Arts (SVA), majoring in graphic design, and studied in central London Saint Martin for five years. This design background made her pursue the design of Asian women's beauty, blending digital original printing and manual painting elements, soft fabrics and strange details. Wang Yuhan's undergraduate design in 2016 won the L Or al Professionnel Young Talent Award runner up, and began in 2019, spring and summer, for the three consecutive season in the "talent incubator" Fashion East display. She has worked in JW Anderson and Oscar de la Renta, and now serves as junior designer in Marni. In 2018, she released the first series in London's personal brand Yuhan Wang. Recently, she just joined the Chinese designer Yang Guidong (Samuel Gui Yang) in the 2020 LVMH Award for young designers.