GUCCI Creative Director Alessandro Michele: I Don'T Want To Start Any Revolution. This Is Just My Opinion.

Alessandro Michele -- creative director of GUCCI. At first he wanted to be a fashion designer, so he studied fashion design after graduation from Rome Clothing Institute. Later, he participated in knitting design at Les Copains. He joined Fendi in the late 90s to participate in leather design. Before becoming the creative director of Gucci, he served as the accessory designer in the brand.

In early 2015, Alessandro Michele, with its long hair and beard, was officially appointed as creative director of Gucci, and has been in Tom Ford and Frida since 2002. Giannini not only changed the fate of the fashion house, but also created a crazy, retro new brand of new tone, new attitude and new fans, which is totally different from the elegant atmosphere of the past.

The Gucci world, led by Michele, is full of vivid color conflicts and draws inspiration from various references such as dinosaurs, aliens, comics, cranes, snakes, churches, gardens, and fries shops, so as to blend the gloomy retro style with popular culture and uselessness.

In the course of Gucci development, Michele has invited many collaborators, models and advertising faces, such as pop idol Harry Styles, dancer Michael Clark, actor and model Hari Nef, designer Dapper Dan, artist GucciGhost and photographer Dapper and others have further expanded their vision of fashion.

What do women want to wear now? A seemingly simple question is rarely answered, but the Alessandro Michele, who was appointed Gucci creative director at the beginning of the year, seems to have given us the answer in unexpected ways. ?

The most popular thing in fashion is legend. The old designer left suddenly, and the deputy who worked quietly for several years came forward. He created a brand new series in the first five days, and broke the already boring impression of the brand in one fell swoop. Thus, the appointment of Alessandro Michele has written a legend. He is not a "Star" designer, you do not know who he is not unusual, but his slightly weird, gender ambiguous Gucci girl presumably you are no stranger: her dress is a bit old-fashioned, but it feels fresh; the clothes that seem to come from the old shop are not luxurious or sexy, but still can arouse women's desires. Old is new, bookish is cool, ugly is beautiful. When his first series is released, you can not imagine that these contradictions will really be established, and let Gucci successfully return to tide brand image. But for designers, this is not surprising, because this is the change caused by the changes of the times.

The world will not stop.

"Young people on the street are really fashion representatives. They gave me a lot of inspiration. They are the most fashionable people in the world. ?

-- Alessandro Michele

"I understand that what I did was crazy at the very beginning," said Michele, who sits in the Milan office. "Maybe I should make a super sexy and super luxury series to cater for the Gucci tastes that the guests are accustomed to, but for me, it's much more natural to express another view."

At that time, he just released the brand's spring summer series in 2016, and he also released the fifth series after he took office. Through the test of several seasons, the eccentric girl spirit he advocated has become the "fashionable" new standard. "I thought it was time to clear everything and push the brand to another direction, which is more in line with what really happened outside."

But if Michele is doing something just like "keeping pace with the times", it will simplify his storm in Gucci too much, because he not only changes the image of a brand, but also challenges the aesthetics of the whole industry.

For example, in his first men's wear series and the first women's clothing series released in a month, the clothes that are not clearly gender specific models and men and women can be dressed up. A few months later, the American athlete Bruce Jenner was transformed into "Caitlyn", and the long-awaited movie Danish girl will be released soon. Transsexuals are becoming a hot topic. "This is what I saw outside, not my invention."

To this, the designer explains, "but the world is heading in this direction..." And I think the most beautiful things are a bit vague, those who are not clear is beautiful. Through his hand, the sexy woman with femininity has vanished without trace. "The authority of Gucci no longer comes from how to tempt men," he said. "It's not that there is anything wrong with it. I love the era of Tom Ford, but that's the 'present' aesthetic of the 90s of last century.

"I don't want to start any revolution."

"My father taught me to love nature. When I was little, I kept many pets. It was a zoo. They are in my DNA, just like my language. "

-- Alessandro Michele

Michele, who entered the Gucci design team for two years, worked with Ford for two years. Then she served as leather director at Frida Giannini and later became her deputy. However, it is hard to imagine his works. How did he work here for so many years? "It was really a job at that time." He replied bluntly. After the new president Marco Bizzarri took office, and invited Michele to be the creative director, the earth shaking change was fast and thorough, which made people feel that it was a long overdue creative outbreak. "If you are honest, not afraid to reveal what you really like, something will come very quickly. What I am interpreting is my own aesthetics, which is something in my family and in my life, so there is nothing farfetched." After all these seasons, his strength seems to have run out. "It's like a river that can't stop." He laughed.

Although the Gucci brand was created in Florence, Michele, who was born in Rome, chose Rome as a base area to renovate the office there. "I'm a little afraid of the old one. They are all black marble and gold foil. It's not suitable for me." The place where we are sitting now is a "secret room" which he used in Milan. The wall covered frescoes show the natural features of all things. The antique carpet, which is stacked up all over the floor, is covered with the ground. Sitting on the old sofa, when standing up, you will find that you are covered with hair. From these beloved objects, it is easy to see why the Gucci girl who is more than the goddess exists, and Michele interprets her more affinity. "I don't want to start any revolution. This is just my opinion."

Designers are also receptive to the exposure of new jobs. He quipped that he was invited to Met Gala in May 2016. He was placed in an important position, surrounded by "super famous people", but he did not include himself in it. "Instead, it was like a big joke. I sat behind singer Cher. It's kind of like a ghost festival. You don't know if it's true or not. However, although they tend to be low-key, Michele is keen to communicate with people and chat with each other. In conversation, they often use their hands full of antique rings to play with their long hair and have affinity. "I don't feel like I'm in the spotlight," he continued. "For me, it doesn't exist. It's created by others around me. I know, but it's not me. I still have the same life, the same hobby, the same interesting things to do."

Reproduction can also be innovation.

"I have always said that I don't like the future and do not like its nonexistence, but I love the present, and I find it very interesting." This is the second time we have met in a few weeks. The site was transferred from Milan to Shanghai. On the second day, the exhibition jointly planned by Love and Katie Grand was opened in Shanghai people's livelihood Museum. Coming to China to hold the brand annual large-scale event is an opportunity for Michele to explain to you the concepts behind the sky and sky design. Compared to a show to introduce a brand product, he feels the opportunity to interpret this vision is more meaningful.

The exhibition named "No Longer/Not Yet" reflects the designer's ongoing exploration of what is meant by "the present". Michele is very interested in Philosophy (which leads everyone to see his philosophy after all his show), and Giorgio Agamben, a contemporary philosopher in Italy, has an explanation for "the present": "people who really belong to their times are those who do not agree with the times and do not adapt themselves to the requirements of the times. In this sense, they have no sense of belonging in the moment. " Apart from the times, we can see its essence clearly.

In many ways, the design of Michele seems to be a bit inconsistent with the times. Critics often say that his design has nothing to do with the goods that come out of an old shop, and those dazzling shapes rely on clever matching rather than a breakthrough design. But Michele is not entangled in this. In his view, why can't replication be another innovation? "I always compare the Renaissance movement," he explained. "At that time, they used a lot of ancient Rome and ancient Greek aesthetics, but now we never regard it as a duplicate plate. When we mention it, we always say it is an aesthetic revolution."

Knowledgeable, he is keen to do research and draw inspiration from printing in the natural world, philosophy, art, movies, and even his home's antique sofa. "Combine these and make up an infectious story, and the younger generation will really understand it."

So Young

So even though Michele's design is inspired by past things, it's still dedicated to young people nowadays. "I love the younger generation. When you walk in the street, you will find that they are the interpreters of the moment," he admired. "They are beautiful because they can mix up everything and express them in a very natural way. They really do not care. This gives me a lot of inspiration." Comparing his growth experience in 80s, he felt that today's young people are more alive. "They are not dying like old things. They have many ways to open many doors. "

Like the dress that grandma will wear, it has been reshaped as a design that young people aspire to.

The Gucci early spring series, which was held in a warehouse in lower New York, showed a more fashionable style. The models went directly from the street to the show. "I don't like the rules of fashion. There are too many fetters in the concept of total look, which is a very old-fashioned way of interpreting fashion." He said. In contrast, he is more willing to see his role as a director, and the purpose of each series is to tell a story. "If you have a story to tell, you have to shape yourself, and I'm addicted to it." Therefore, Michele is a rare designer who is obsessed with matching himself with every show.

And how do those distinctive collocations match with those who do not want to create a full set of costumes? He explained that before the show, all the costumes and accessories would be taken to a room. He would choose a single product as the starting point for every form, just like getting up and wearing clothes every morning. It could be a skirt, a shirt, or a hat. The process of collocation often changes and adjusts, just like an unfinished project - "it is already or not".

"Really!" He laughed. "This is a very good explanation, but I must say that when I see the right image, I can not change any place on the dress, even if it is a gem or a small ribbon, don't ask me what it is, but as long as I feel right, I can't change it." But stubbornness is the end of it. He knows that the rules of the moment are not made by anyone, and things change without changing what you control. What he created was the beginning of a "never-ending" story. Finally, people who put it on their own should improve their collocation. If the high street brand wants to imitate, it doesn't matter to him. "I don't want to waste my time to control everything."

Aura of desire

Though not deliberately, Michele's reminiscent reminds Tom Ford. Even if the two person presents the Gucci's appearance and the way of doing things completely different, it is not without generality. "I think people need to fantasize and look for their fashion tribes as before. When I started working in 90s, I found it very interesting because each brand was like a tribe. In Michele's view, these years, many of the big brands represented by Gucci were indulged in the promotion of products, but they forgot to build their own unique aesthetics. "Now many companies are changing their design language, because no soul can create fashion, products are follow-up. You can find a pair of black flat shoes anywhere, but why choose this pair is because I tell you a story, and what has been recognized by you.

"For me, the dual G logo is decorative, it is like a pop mark, is a symbol of popular culture, has the power."

Gucci has always been entangled with desire: the peak of the 90s Monogram trend, with two "GG" interlocking bags, I do not know how many girls dream. At the helm of Tom Ford, those bare skinned sexy costumes have also aroused countless women's aspirations. In the Michele era, the aura of desire is lingering in the design itself. When he talks about fashion, he often appears religious words. He calls the bag "sacred objects". The double G logo is like a "portrait painting". He explained: "religion means what you need, maybe you are afraid, uncomfortable, you need help. Fashion is similar to this. A pair of shoes can be compared with holy objects because sometimes you admire it." He thinks that the fashion industry in 90s is full of "fashion objects" such as bags, shoes and suits, but it is a pity that "when we start talking about products, this feeling is lost."

So if Alessandro Michele's design in Gucci is complex, it is really complicated: to reveal the symbols contained in the dress, you will find philosophical details, historical elements, artistic atmosphere and designer's childhood memories. But if it's simple, it's also simple, because whether you know or not, if you don't care about it, you can see that the bags, shoes and clothes from him can make you palpitate at once. "When you see this season's most fashionable shoes in the window, you really will worship it, get addicted to it, really need it," Michele said. "I love this feeling, and I'm not afraid to say it."