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Designing Cultural Transformation And Reconstructing The Spirit Of Designers

2020/4/29 15:16:00 2

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Faced with the grim situation of the epidemic, masks, protective clothing and other medical protective materials have been in short supply, and many enterprises have changed their production across the border to meet the demand. The essence of material reorganization when facing extreme conditions is reconstructing its own spiritual world. The demand in difficult times also causes the designers' attention to practical and functional design.

Work hard

In 1941, during the Second World War, the British government imposed rationing on clothing because of the shortage of materials: each person could only buy a new set of clothes every year, and the factory and labor force was used for the production of materials by reducing the output of civilian clothing. This control ensures fairness and reduces the production of civilian clothing to protect raw materials. The government allocated little material to every adult. In order to help people cope with the rationing of clothing, the government put forward a "repair plan" to encourage women to make use of their husbands or their husbands' clothes to make new suits, or to make blankets into clothes to extend the service life of their existing clothes.

At that time, fashion magazines opened up columns to teach people how to transform old materials into fashionable objects. Countess Louis Mountbatten even asked her tailor to make underwear in the Royal Air Force's superfluous silk navigation map. At the same time, the British government also launched the "practical clothing program", emphasizing that clothing should be based on plain and simple style. Although the plan sounds monotonous, but with the help of fashion designers like Hedi Yurman (Hardy Amies) and Norman Hartnell (Norman Hartnell), practical clothing also adds a lot to the charm of women.

Tremendous changes in the living environment have also created new trends. Julie Summers, the author of "rationing and fashion," said that women's pursuit of fashion trends during World War II has never stopped. Julie Summers. "Even during the war years, they wanted to show their unique beauty of women, and took pains to do so." Wartime control led to a sharp increase in traffic accidents, so Britain began to wear luminous buttons, brooches and handbags. Elegant ladies' bags also put down gas masks, and they could also design their scarves at random to reveal their personalities.

To maintain their bright appearance, British women use beet root juice as lipstick and apply emulsion on their legs to create silk texture. In order to protect women's work safety and encourage their hair to be cut short, the British government also played a role in helping fashion magazines. When the government appealed to women to change their shape, they stressed that the new model was both practical and beautiful.

Multiple uses of one material

Before a garment was put into production, about 15% of its fabric was wasted in the cutting process. The waste of fabric also means that the natural resources and human resources involved in fabric production have also been wasted, so designers try to reduce fabric waste in various ways and maximize the utilization of fabrics, so as to reduce the demand for natural resources.

The Belgian pioneer designer Martin Margiela (Martin Margiela) has been very concerned about the two refurbishment of fashion. His design is very environmentally friendly: a dress that was dyed and dyed on jeans in 50s of last century, and the fur coat was made into a wig, and the worn gloves and socks were made up of clothes. At that time, the term "sustainable environmental protection" had not yet been noticed. He explored the potential of human creative use of materials under limited resources through avant-garde design.

The reality of limited conditions allows designers to discover that single materials have more different uses, even if they are common things in life, plus a little ingenuity can create more joy. For example, in the 90s of last century, Japanese designer Tsumura Kosuke designed a jacket with dozens of pockets on the theme of "Final Home". The vagabond's Street Wisdom gave him inspiration. In his imagination, every pocket can be stuffed into newspapers to keep out the cold, so as to cope with the harsh outdoor environment. In this way, environmental conservation design will also become fun.

Cultural upsurge

The epidemic slowed people down and began to reflect on what the hectic, hectic and fast pace of life has brought to life. This is an opportunity for the development of clothing culture. Only in "slow life", people will pay more attention to the cultural connotation behind clothing, and clothing culture is the extension of consumer culture.

From the age of material shortage to the era of surplus product homogenization, people have changed from material consumption to today's emotional consumption era. Nowadays, with the development of mobile Internet technology and the comprehensive promotion of 5G, a new emotional socialization and low desire material consumption are rising rapidly, which means that the era of relying on big capacity and low price competition is coming to an end.

Under the change of people's consumption concept and commodity consumption value, the attributes of "required" products of clothing are decreasing, and the optional attributes are being strengthened. On the basic function of its shelter and warmth, clothing is endowed with more spiritual connotation. For example, the younger generation of consumers who pursue individuality and differentiation, clothing becomes an important external manifestation of their conveying thoughts and life styles. The design with the spirit from the heart will move people. Especially in the new media age, if there is no cultural and content enrichment, there is no capacity for sustainable development.

In 2019, Lining's brand continued to explode. In the era of cultural confidence, the Chinese people's collective memory of the former Olympic gymnast Lining and the combination of Chinese elements and free sports genes were captured. A brand impress people not only on the product itself, but on the values and ideas behind it. Lining himself says that his dream is to make a great Chinese sports brand, and also let people see the spirit of the brand constantly representing the Chinese people after the redesign sense.

Brand culture conforms to the times. It is concerned about the influence and leading role of current movies, TV shows, reality shows, celebrities, celebrities and celebrities. Film and television works often bring new fashion culture and fashion trends. XTEP International released its 2019 performance in mid March, with an annual operating income of 8 billion 183 million yuan, an increase of 28% over 2018, setting the best results in nearly five years. In addition to continuing exposure to traditional events, the signing of the "idol trainee" hot idol portfolio "lohua seven sub NEXT" as a brand spokesperson, interpretation of XTEP's advocacy of the concept of fashion sports, to inject new vitality into the field of sports.

Innovation is the vitality of all cultures, and clothing culture is no exception. In the future, cultural creativity is the core competitiveness of the garment industry, and the added value of the brand that can bring high premium to the enterprise is also based on this. In the process of shaping brand culture, enterprises need to clearly define their own advantages and combine them with their claims. Accumulation of cultural details is not an easy task. China's garment enterprises must rely on the strong cultural advantages of the state and flexibly apply the style of travel alienation.