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    The Combination Of Digital Economy And Fashion Is The End Of The Wild Era Of Traditional Clothing Brands

    2020/12/9 17:25:00 0

    MeibangFanke

    During the 20 years of ups and downs of domestic clothing brands, underwear focused Antarctica, leisure apparel Meibang, netsheng brand VANCL all faltered in different ways.

    Team, supply chain, marketing and user service, each brand has more or less such problems. The wrong market judgment will make all the advantages disappear, and lead to the problems of excess inventory, similar performance and price competition.

    Now, searching for "Antarctica" on major e-commerce platforms, from home daily necessities to outdoor equipment, from flagship stores, franchise stores to direct supply stores and enterprise stores, "Antarctica" trademark and shop icons designed with it as elements can form a person's visual experience of "Fractal matrix".

    As of December 8, the number of shops searching for "Antarctica" on one e-commerce platform alone reached 22947, while the search results of "Hengyuanxiang" in the same category were only 9435.

    The high sales volume and high contrast commodity map design re deconstructs the "Antarctic" brand which is full of e-commerce platforms.

    You can never reach the end of the Antarctic chain in the narrow screen of your mobile phone.

    01、 The art of shadow separation in Antarctica

    Antarctica, founded in 1998, was once a household name brand of thermal underwear. "Deep feeling, Antarctica" is its core value, the purpose is to advocate emotional communication with consumers.

    Warm underwear seems to run through the winter memories of childhood. When I was a child, I was forced to wear it by my mother. Now I consciously put on a few orders under the shopping festival before the arrival of the cold winter.

    So, why are there so many homogeneous shops in the emotional "Antarctica"?

    The pointer is set to 2008.

    The financial crisis broke out, the textile industry suffered, a large number of OEM enterprises have closed down. In this year, "Antarctica" launched the brand licensing business model and launched the "ngtt" Antarctic community business model. In fact, the so-called "core brand" of ngtt is called "the core brand". It sold all of its factories and directly cut off the two important links of self-employed "production" and "sales", leaving only the brand of "Antarctica" and becoming a tag seller.

    This means that only the tags you buy for your underwear and foot baths are real.

    Click on the official website of "Antarctic e-commerce", and the "cooperation application" section can be seen at a glance. The "cooperation application" here is divided into "sales authorization application" and "auxiliary materials application". It provides a dedicated team to assist the operation, but also provides art, quality inspection and other service support.

    The "brand, service, resource technology, team" service of Antarctic e-commerce has achieved remarkable results. According to the annual report of 2019 released by Antarctic e-commerce in April this year, the Gmv of Antarctic brand reached 27.138 billion yuan in 2019, with a year-on-year increase of 52.86%; its "brand comprehensive service business" revenue was about 1.24 billion yuan, and the operating income of dealer brand authorization business was about 60 million yuan.

    picture

    The "authorized OEM" is the starting point for the forward expansion of Antarctic e-commerce and the beginning of its quality being questioned.

    According to the Beijing business daily, there are mainly two types of cooperative customers: one is the dealer; the other is the supplier who runs his own factory. The former is a cooperative distributor, and the latter is an authorized dealer. Dealers only need to sign a nominal contract with the factory, then they can purchase their own products in the name of the factory, buy the trademark of Antarctica and sell it again.

    As far as the Antarctic e-commerce is concerned, the long-standing reputation of the "Antarctic" brand has brought a siphon effect to it. A large number of small manufacturers choose to label their products as "Antarctic people" and put a faint halo on their products.

    Objectively speaking, manufacturers use the power of the brand to expand the market, the brand side through the licensing fee to obtain revenue, this business model has its existence value. More e-commerce resources are coming to the head, which also accelerates the sinking of Antarctic e-commerce channels. However, the most subtle link is quality control.

    According to the statistics of southern weekend, in 2018, the silk quilt, underwear, children's wear, hair curler, stick and other products of Antarctica were listed in the blacklist of unqualified products of the national quality supervision department and local consumer associations for 14 times, equivalent to once a month.

    In 2008, Antarctica launched the OEM authorization model. On its 10th anniversary, the financial crisis ended the golden decade of textile industry. In the era of e-commerce competition becoming more transparent and quality-oriented, I do not know what kind of confidence the southerners who have long been out of production will have.

    02、 The fall of Meibang

    In April 1995, Meibang, which opened its first store in Wenzhou, did not expect that it would become one of the "top 500 manufacturing industries in China" with a performance of 2.021 billion yuan only 10 years later. In the same year, the headquarters of Meibang moved from Wenzhou to Nanhui, Shanghai.

    If there was a time machine, Meibang might want to go back to what it was then and grab something.

    According to the China executive information disclosure network, on June 24, this year, the people's Court of Huangpu District of Shanghai issued a consumption restriction order to restrict the consumption of Meibang clothing. The cause is an earlier housing rental contract dispute, Meibang failed to pay rent and liquidated damages. For a while, the "unusual road" of "Metersbonwe" returned to the public view.

    Although Meibang apparel responded on the evening of June 28 that the high consumption restriction had been lifted, was this really a false alarm?

    In 2003, Jay Chou released the album "Ye Huimei", and MetS Bonwe signed the Asian king of heaven while he was hot. Seven figures of advertising expenses, so that MetS Bonwe completely opened the market for young people. From the commercial street in the small county town to the flagship store on East Nanjing Road in Shanghai, these young people singing "in the name of my father" are very popular. Since then, Jay Chou's longest main line of endorsement was not completed until 2017, which lasted for 15 years.

    In August 2008, Meibang clothing landed in Shenzhen Stock Exchange. On the New Fortune 500 list in 2009, Zhou Chengjian, the founder of Meibang at that time, ranked third in China with 16.6 billion yuan, becoming the highest ranking entrepreneur in China's clothing industry.

    In 2009, let's see the meteor shower.

    "Duanmu took me to metsbawi and picked out a lot of clothes and shoes. When I looked in the mirror, I didn't know who the girl in it was." so far, netizens still played with Duanmu.

    And this is probably the last highlight of metsbonway.

    It's a physical store, but it's a loser. With the strong impact of UNIQLO, Zara and other fast fashion brands, in 2015, due to the high rent of shops and the decline of store sales, Meibang clothing had to close its stores to reduce its expenditure. In addition to large-scale shop closures, the performance loss of Meibang clothing is increasing year by year.

    According to the annual report of Meibang clothing [3], from 2015 to 2019, its losses were 445 million, 518 million, 321 million, 40 million and 825 million respectively.

    With more and more indescribable fashion designs and weaker star endorsements, mattersbonwe gradually lost its voice.

    03、 Prejudice and arrogance

    The clothing brand halo in 2011 belongs to the ordinary guest.

    "I love the Internet, love freedom, I love getting up late, I love big gear at night, I love racing cars; I also love T-shirt, which costs 29 yuan. I am not a flag bearer or a spokesperson. I am Han Han, I only represent myself. I'm just like you. I'm a regular

    At that time, jobs released the iPhone 4 on WWDC 2010, and the Chinese market has begun to show a trend of "consumption upgrading", and people are more in pursuit of quality and service.

    "I'm just like you, I'm a mortal" has become the most important label for ordinary people. Founded in 2007, Fanke is a basic T-shirt with 29 yuan as its main theme. The simple website design is really a stream. At the beginning of B2C e-commerce, other platforms have not yet created a strong brand impression on the public, while the "all in package mail, 7 * 24-hour customer service and 30 day return and exchange" have made the e-commerce service of Fanke gain a great reputation.

    According to the first finance and economics report, in 2010, VANCL's revenue exceeded 2 billion yuan, an increase of 300% over the same period of the previous year, ranking fourth in the e-commerce industry after Jingdong, amazon.com and dangdangdang.com. Chen Nian, the founder of the company, said that the sales target of Vanke in 2011 would be raised to 10 billion yuan.

    The radical expansion strategy makes ordinary customers ignore too many details.

    First, in 2011, the price of Internet advertising soared due to the hype of group buying mode. That summer, ordinary customers decided to wait for the market to cool down before advertising. Never thought, Suning easy to buy and Amazon China's sudden force, so that after the advertising market prices stay high for a long time.

    At this time, sales will be dragged down. The large amount of inventory overstocked in summer can only be sold at a low price, but customers do not buy it.

    Inventory turnover is the life and death line of FMCG. If you pay attention to it, juhuasuan and vipshop suddenly became popular in 2011.

    Second, brand extension is wrong. It has expanded from the main shirts, T-shirts and canvas shoes to mops and electric hotpots. The mentality of trying to understand the consumption trend of all young people has made every customer transform violently from a vertical e-commerce mode to a platform.

    Fierce is easy to dislocate, founded in 2007 Fanke, has not gone through a complete brilliant decade.

    04、 Similar "ten years"

    In the Japanese drama "Banze Zhishu", the screenwriter ikei Hurun wrote about such a scene: when he was a child, his father was a small entrepreneur who produced white nylon resin screws. After his father's loan was rejected by the bank, he took out a resin screw of his own production, and said sadly to Masaki, "it is this screw that supports Japan." Then he committed suicide.

    This kind of screw is durable, light weight and has irreplaceable advantages in most fields. The production of screws needs casting, forging, welding, turning, grinding, milling, planing and other processing procedures, master the appropriate heat, unskilled workers can not complete. And the cultivation of skilled workers needs a long time, which is inseparable from the teaching between masters and apprentices.

    If not for Banze's father's insistence, this kind of screw may not be available on the market, thus opening up the international market. In Japan at that time, it was the accumulation of countless such small enterprises for a long time that supported the Japanese economy.

    Time is enough to measure the value of each choice of an enterprise.

    Ten years ago, with a dozen of yinxiaotian's fingers, every man visiting Hailan's home could become a man of the world. This brand, which may be unfamiliar to many new generations, shapes people's whole impression of Hailan home with its enthusiastic dance and frantic trampling.

    If we say that Hailan home is one of the background colors of Chinese clothing brands, then one after another of the clay foot giants before and after it are also climbing and falling.

    Transformation is not easy, falling into the once "successful mode", giants will be difficult to extricate themselves.

    With the development of e-commerce, the consumption scene between big and small cities is no longer terrible. More and more young people have independent consumption ideas.

    Jiangnan cloth clothing is one of the Chinese clothing brands listed on the Hong Kong stock market, and the "national tide" which has been promoted by a small number of designer brands has also rapidly evolved into a tornado driven by Li Ning. These two brands, which have a history of 20 to 30 years, have also seized all possible opportunities in an increasingly complex market.

    All of them confirm a truth: if we follow the successful model which has been verified in the past, we can not have a place if we go against the original intention of making products.


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