Establish The Quality And Value System Of Chinese Wine From The Lowest To The Highest Level
"At present, the most important thing for Chinese wine companies is to improve their internal skills." On December 14, Huo Xingsan, Secretary General of the wine branch of China Wine Association, told reporters of the 21st century economic report that the establishment of quality system and value system of Chinese wine is the two urgent tasks for the association to promote.
This year can be said to be the most "declining" year of domestic wine in recent ten years. The monitoring statistics of China report hall show that the national wine production from January to February was 36000 kiloliters, down 67%, which was the lowest level in the history of China's wine market for many years. Compared with other types of wine, the sales revenue and total profit of Enterprises above the designated level in the wine industry showed a cliff like decline. In the first half of the year, the cumulative profit of wine enterprises above Designated Size reached 113 million yuan, one thousandth of that of liquor enterprises. Among the 8 domestic wine listed companies, only Changyu shares and dynasty wine made profits.
In fact, the decline of domestic wine has lasted for many years, only aggravated by the impact of the epidemic. After the import volume of China's wine in 2018 exceeded that of domestic wine in that year, the domestic wine production dropped to 450000 tons last year, shrinking to the production scale of 2005. In the second half of this year, domestic wine sales gradually recovered, but most enterprises were unable to escape the fate of loss in the whole year.
"From another perspective, it's a good thing that the industry has been experiencing pains over the past few years. Those who are not at ease have been eliminated, and the rest are going to plant grapes and wine in a down-to-earth manner." Huo Xingsan said he was more pleased that the overall quality of Chinese wine has been greatly improved.
The quality has improved, but Chinese wine is following the same path as China's dairy industry. "We are sorting out the standards of China's wine producing areas and do the work of source. To educate consumers, I have calculated that over 5000 people have been trained in the optical industry for many years. Why do consumers still think imported wine is good? The reason is that our own wine system has not been sorted out clearly. Naturally, training is not clear. " Huo Xingsan pointed out the point.
"By 2025, Great Wall wine will reach a sales scale of 5 billion yuan, standing at a new height of Chinese wine!" As the "14th five year plan" is approaching, Liu Xin, deputy general manager of COFCO Changcheng Liquor Co., Ltd., is the first to stand up and issue the strongest voice in the industry.
From the lowest level to the peak of sales, what should Chinese wine do most?
China's local customs depend on both "planting" and "speaking"
As early as in 2018, Ma Yong, Deputy Secretary General of China Food Industry Association, held an exclusive interview with the 21st century economic reporter at the exhibition to celebrate the great achievements of China's wine industry in the past 40 years. Ma Yong, then Deputy Secretary General of China Food Industry Association, believed that the best thing Maotai Group has done in recent years is not the price rise, but the scientific and systematic carding of the original technology, including the Dragon Boat Festival koji making, Chongyang Xiasha, twice feeding and eight fermentation 9 times distillation, 7 times wine. "This is Ji Keliang's greatest contribution to Maotai." He said that in the past, the technology of sauce wine was not a discourse system. Now it not only summarizes, but also clearly tells consumers. The combination of technology, quality and style of Maotai liquor has formed its unique cultural characteristics from brewing to products, which is easy to accept.
But he believes that other wines have done little to summarize and popularize the technology. As for domestic wine, Ma Yong believes that since the reform and opening up, domestic wine, which has also experienced the golden decade, imitates and even imitates Western Wine Culture in variety selection, planting and flavor description, resulting in low consumer confidence in domestic wine.
"Sometimes in the sky, the earth is full of gas, the material is beautiful, and the craftsmanship is skillful. These four sentences emphasize the spirit of made in China and Chinese craftsmen as a whole. " At the annual meeting of Great Wall winery, Yu Qingquan, general manager and chief winemaker of COFCO Changcheng Sanggan winery, summed up the local road of Chinese winery with the four sentences of KAOGONGJI, the earliest design work in China.
He said that Sanggan winery, located at the foot of Badaling Great Wall and the Bank of Sanggan River, is located in the semi-arid and cold area of middle temperate zone. It has four distinct seasons, sufficient light and large temperature difference between day and night, which is very suitable for wine grape cultivation. Its "geogas" is the fossil soil of Nihewan formed 2 million years ago, which contains beneficial microbial communities. He also consulted Li Xunke, a researcher at the Institute of Geographical Sciences and resources, Chinese Academy of Sciences, on soil terminology. "Maimei" is the grape maturity, flavor and quality uniformity, Sanggan winery has formulated the "five consistency" standard. "Craftsmanship" includes: in planting, directional flavor control technology, mining the local conditions; in brewing, precise brewing technology to express the characteristics of grape varieties.
In October, Ningxia wine producing area, which has won many awards in the world, also released the report on the meteorological year of wine grapes in the eastern foot of Helan Mountain in 2020. Like the Huailai region of Hebei Province where Sanggan winery is located, both regions have ushered in an extraordinary year of climate. It is generally cold and cool this year. Ningxia production area has rainy weather in some areas during flowering and fruiting period, color changing period to maturity period; Huailai production area experienced short-term low-temperature frost in the germination period in the middle and late April and October 5, and the total rainfall increased by 28% compared with last year.
However, under the careful care of winemakers and process adjustment, the two major production areas ushered in the harvest period of superior quality, with more acidity and aromatic substances retained and aroma more abundant. For example, due to the rapid accumulation of sugar in the mature period of grapes in Helan Mountain Area of Ningxia, the wineries used to harvest grapes later each year to find the balance point between physiological maturity and phenolic compound ripening, so as to make the wine more delicate and balanced.
The big difference between this year and previous years is that rattan exhibition, harvesting, pressing, sealing Consumers are invited to the vineyard. China's production areas with distinctive regional characteristics have begun to meet the public in the form of annual reports. The unique climate, soil and brewing characteristics different from foreign production areas are known. Bottles of wine bred by Chinese customs have the confidence of consumers.
"The establishment of China's wine quality system involves many aspects, not only local customs, but also catering, etiquette, drinking habits, and the expression of wine style. It has not been formed for so many years, and it takes time." Huo Xingsan said.
For example, it is embarrassing that China, as a rising star in the wine industry, is not mentioned in the textbooks of the British wine and Spirits Education Foundation, an international training and certification body.
How to express the value system of Chinese wine?
This year, China's wine market, whether domestic or imported, has declined sharply. At the G50 summit of China Wine Fair and global wine held in Hangzhou in early December, "red dye sauce" became a trend, and many wine dealers who couldn't bear to go to Maotai town to choose wine. Wang Piaohong, however, jumped into the "pit" of domestic wine.
"For more than a year, we found that selling wine was not the same as before. More and more consumers no longer hear or see imported wine and feel good. They believe that the quality of domestic wine is improving and they are willing to try it. " Wang Fanghong, a dealer from Jiangxi Province, told the 21st century economic report that she had only been working on the talent and coast series for more than a year.
She felt the same as Liu Xin, deputy general manager of COFCO Changcheng liquor. "Our market research shows that the post-95's recognition of Chinese high-quality wines is very high." Liu Xin said.
Yang Qiang, Deputy Secretary General of China Food Industry Association, said that through these years of efforts, domestic wine has made great progress in product quality, market recognition and reputation, which has been fully verified in the just concluded 2020 international leader wine and spirits quality competition. "Under 100 yuan, 100-200 yuan, 200-300 yuan, 300-500 yuan, 500 yuan or more, the quality of domestic wine in all price segments of China's market is not inferior to or even better than imported wine." He said.
But in the eyes of many consumers, they still think that domestic wine is not cost-effective. The same quality often means more than imported wine. How to express the value system of Chinese wine when its quality catches up? Is it higher or lower than that of imported wine?
Yu Qingquan told the 21st century economic report that in the second half of the year, with the improvement of the epidemic situation and the recovery of catering, the highest growth rate of the Great Wall wine industry was in the middle and high-end wines. According to the financial reports released by wine listed companies, in the first half of the year, the overall gross profit rate decreased, but the gross profit rate of enterprises increased in the second half of the year. In the third quarter, Yiyuan increased the average selling price of wine by 20 yuan from 60.4 yuan. As a result, the profit before tax in that quarter was more than 3 million yuan, twice that of January September.
Chinese wine companies, both Changyu and great wall, have put the magic weapon of performance growth on the core large single products. Chateau wine is the support that drives wine to occupy the core advantages in important channels and high-end markets, and is also the commanding height of wine pricing in China. As for Sanggan winery, Li Shiyi, a former trader of COFCO Great Wall, proposed that the price should be more than 1000 yuan. He believed that this was the value of the famous Oriental winery and should not be defeated by Maotai liquor.
But a bottle of Chinese wine, if only by raising the price to cut leeks, consumers do not necessarily buy. How to achieve high premium? Innovation is indispensable.
At the annual meeting of the Great Wall liquor industry, sun Jingyi, the chief designer of Li Ning group, a representative of Chinese products, described a new high-end sneaker with second light, which solved the pain point after applying the principle of ancient building wear bucket structure. When the consumer is running, the rope around the sole of the shoe will not fall off.
"Similarly, Great Wall wine needs continuous innovation and development in terms of products, digital marketing, media, new category mechanism and cooperation mode between manufacturers." Liu Xin said.
How to innovate a bottle of wine body? Zhou Peng, assistant general manager of COFCO liquor industry, said that the winemaker team should creatively look at internationalization and localization, and find the optimal balance between professional examination and consumer taste and personalized appeal.
Chinese wine needs value rediscovery. How to express the value system is still under exploration.
Chinese wine culture needs to be sorted out
"The penetration rate of wine in Chinese families is only 31%, while that of liquor is 70%." Liu Xin said. In less than half of the wine drinking occasions, the proportion of domestic wine drinking is lower. The lack of cultural confidence is often behind the weakness of consumption.
Can China produce good wine? Does China have its own wine culture? If so, how long is the history? What is the connotation of Chinese wine culture?
Huo Xingsan said that wine culture is the intersection of material culture and spiritual culture. But for a long time, due to the lack of systematic and complete carding of Chinese wine culture, it is difficult to explain clearly in wine training.
Zhang Yiwu, a professor of the Chinese Department of Peking University, said in his speech "wine and Chinese culture" that people planted grapes from about 10000 years to 5000 or 6000 years ago. Wine and Chinese civilization originated together, wine is an important part of Chinese wine. Wine was introduced into China from the western regions from the pre Qin Dynasty to the Han Dynasty, which was the result of cultural blending along the silk road. In the historical records of Dawan biography, there is a record that Wan left and right took Pu Tao as wine. In the Yuan Dynasty, wine occupied a high position in national wine, and wine was shared from the court to the countryside.
"The ruins of nya ancient civilization have advanced the history of Chinese wine by at least a thousand years." Huo Xingsan added to the 21st century economic reporter that the nya site was an east-west traffic fortress on the South Road of the "Silk Road" in the western regions during the Han and Jin Dynasties. In 1995, Niya No.1 cemetery was rated as "one of the top ten archaeological discoveries in China" by the State Administration of cultural relics. A large number of wine sets and Kharoshthi documents unearthed prove that the Chinese people had excellent grape wine making techniques two thousand years ago.
But the origin of Chinese wine culture, the public is little known.
"Wine is not only a long-standing tradition in China, but also the crystallization of the convergence of eastern and Western cultures for more than 100 years. Chinese wine is an important bridge of global wine culture, and wine is more easily understood by the world than other wine varieties. " Zhang Yiwu said.
He said that the essence of China's wine civilization is a small drink and light drunkenness, and wine is the most suitable spirit and realm. The cultural renaissance of Chinese wine and the Chinese characteristics of wine are unfolding: Farewell to extravagant drinking and becoming beautiful drink; farewell to vulgar drink and become elegant drink; farewell to excessive drinking and become rhyme drink. The elegant and refreshing culture is just at the right time. This is China's wine culture. So we should tell the Chinese story of wine well and let the world know.
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