The Popularity Of Hanfu Has Been Widely Spread Among Young People

01、 "Hanfu" in the old days is fresh now

Recently, Hanfu Guofeng brand "more than thirteen" invested by zhengxingu and BiliBili Bili and followed by bubble Mart has completed a round of financing of more than 100 million yuan, making Hanfu a niche track into the capital market. According to public information, Hangzhou Daya Culture Co., Ltd., which belongs to more than 13 years ago, has been established for less than three years, and its main products are original Chinese clothing, national style clothing, etc.

"Hanfu" means Han people's clothing. It is a concept of Chinese Dynasty clothing or the general name of ancient Chinese clothing (from Wikipedia). This word can be traced back to the book of the Han Dynasty, in which the Chinese dress system is enjoyed. Academically, there is no exact definition of Hanfu. Yuan Xie, a professor at Beijing Institute of fashion, points out that the concept of Hanfu is uncertain, and it is not a dress of a certain shape in a certain Dynasty.

It's hard to imagine that although China has a large population of Han nationality, "Han Costume" was still a small cultural circle more than ten years ago. At that time, a group of network users who wanted to "revive Chinese culture" gathered on a network platform called "Hanwang", and issued an appeal of "Chinese rejuvenation, clothing first". When these people try to wear homemade Hanfu to take to the streets to carry out propaganda, passers-by's reaction is usually curious, surprised, puzzled and even ridiculed.

With the revival of traditional Chinese culture, the revival of this kind of dress was born. It accumulated strength in the round of Sinology and traditional culture. With the blessing of many factors, it ushered in the outbreak period of "expanding circle". Among them, it is inseparable from the efforts of a number of early Hanfu merchants. It has been nearly 15 years since the establishment of Hanfu brand "returning to the Han and Tang Dynasties". The founder, LV Xiaowei, was one of the experienced members of the Hanwang movement. After customizing the first set of Hanfu that was "printed" in the film and TV series, he keenly explored business opportunities.

The popularity of e-commerce platform has greatly promoted the "blowout" of supply and demand in Hanfu market. According to AI media consulting data, from 2017 to 2019, the number of Hanfu enthusiasts has maintained a growth rate of more than 70% for three consecutive years. By the end of 2018, only 13 physical stores had "returned to Hantang". In the first quarter of 2019, the total sales of tmall's flagship stores and physical stores were even with that of last year. In this year, the sales volume of the whole market reached 4.52 billion yuan, an increase of 318.5% year on year.

In 2020, Hanfu clothing will become a new market with sales of more than 10 billion yuan on Taobao. The hatching and listing of more than 13 that year's Han clothing sales champion. Among the more than 13 official Taobao stores, the number one monthly sales is the spring and summer dress of "Yao meets shenlu" co branded with ￥ * * (the monthly sales volume is 10000 +). Among them, the price of the dress is 319 yuan, and the bow accessories is 49 yuan. The scheduled batch has reached the 14th batch. Related to factors such as style and season, this price is relatively affordable in more than 13 stores. In terms of the price positioning of more than 13 brands in Taobao Hanfu market, considering the "circle star effect" of founder Xiaodou kou'er, some netizens regard it as "light luxury in the field of Chinese clothing".

Of course, there are also some original brands with higher price, such as minghuatang, Hanke Silk Road, Shili pearl, etc. the related products are mostly dresses rather than daily wear. Take Hanke silk road as an example. At present, the price of "Dragon Robe" in the Taobao shop has reached 11800 yuan.

Nowadays, with the opening of various social media and short video websites, the content related to Hanfu is becoming more and more common, and the number of producers and audience groups is also increasing. The founder of more than 13 years, Kato Kato is also the creator of up in Guofeng district with millions of fans in station B. In addition, taking Sina Weibo as an example, by the time of publishing, Hanfu Chaohua had gathered 505000 fans, 111000 related posts and 2.5 billion reading, ranking the top of Chaowu Chaohua. In fact, with a little attention, we can see more and more young people wearing Hanfu to take photos in their daily life, especially in some historical and cultural scenic spots or natural scenic spots, and the probability of their appearance will rise sharply.

Regardless of personal identification or not, the fact is that the popularity of Hanfu has reached a historical high, and Hanfu fever has been widely spread among young people.

02、 Behind persistence: love and inheritance

As one of the "three pits" of young people's clothing, Hanfu carries many lovers' good memories. This week, we interviewed two Hanfu enthusiasts of over five years in the think tank of Costa Rica, and took us to explore the situation of the circle of Hanfu and the demand side of Hanfu market.

Interviewee a Wen (24)

I prefer daily style, and I like to wear beautiful Chinese clothes to punch in and take photos

I came into the pit when I was a senior three. At that time, I liked Xia Da's ancient cartoon. When I saw her wearing Hanfu, I thought it was very beautiful. At the same time, I also understood that this was the traditional dress of our own nation. Freshmen took part in the Hanfu society, took part in the mid autumn festival festival, flower festival and other activities, like this traditional culture.

I usually like Han clothes made in Ming Dynasty and Song Dynasty because they are more daily. I can wear them and mix them with ordinary clothes. My favorite brands include returning to the Han and Tang Dynasties, zhonglingji, huachaoji, LAN ruotang, etc. I usually buy them on Taobao and have a look at the idle fish. I usually communicate on the post bar, and I have also added some Hanfu community groups. At the same time, I also pay attention to the microblog of some Hanfu models and the up main channel of station B in terms of Hanfu dressing, makeup and photography. This has taught me a lot.

I think the development of Hanfu needs to inherit the tradition and innovate, and keep up with the modern trend. After all, Hanfu has been constantly developing and changing in history. At present, in addition to traditional Hanfu, there are also some clothes with Chinese elements introduced by some businesses, such as sweaters, which are more suitable for daily life and more acceptable. I am willing to buy them. However, when I buy and wear Hanfu, I will study whether the shape is correct. For example, I will check whether there are some historical materials of cultural relic pictures to refer to. If the shape is not correct, I will not buy it.

Interviewee Lin

Set up school Hanfu Association and promote Hanfu

Since I was a child, I like to wear quilts to imitate the costumes of the characters in ancient costume dramas. When I graduated from senior three of senior high school in 2014, I saw a promotional video of Hanfu. At that time, Hanfu was far less popular than it is now. We can easily know the traditional costumes of Tibetan and Mongolian people, but few people even know about Hanfu, which makes me feel very sorry. So after I was a freshman, I wore Hanfu every day. I also founded the school's Hanfu club with two schoolgirls. I hope that more people can understand the existence and connotation of Hanfu by wearing Hanfu by myself and organizing activities organized by association.

What kind of clothes I like to wear is related to my mood. The song and Ming systems are very dignified and easy to wear, which are suitable for daily use. The Tang system is very gorgeous, but it is easy to fall off when wearing the skirt, which restricts the daily wearing. Back to the Han and Tang Dynasties, Han Shang Hualian, huachaoji, LAN ruotang, and Zhuyan are my favorite brands, which are relatively affordable.

In school, we mainly use wechat and QQ to communicate with my classmates. The well-known figures in the Hanfu circle that I pay attention to include Xuanji and Qin Yawen, the predecessors of Hanfu revival, and the promoters of Hanfu culture who hold various activities such as Hanfu Spring Festival Gala. I have participated in offline activities organized by her in Beijing, as well as Xu Jiao and Fang Wenshan, who are more special figures in entertainment circles, Like Fang Wenshan, he is the founder of Xitang Hanfu Culture Festival.

After graduation, I left the city where my school was located, so I didn't have much communication with my classmates. Now I go to work every day and wear Hanfu is not very suitable, but I still wear it on Saturdays and Sundays. For me, Hanfu is my daily clothes. Although I don't think about the shape too much, I still know something about the shape after wearing it for so long.

03、 The spread of Hanfu culture has a long way to go

Just as the interviewee Lin Gaosan regretted that no one knew about the traditional costumes of the Han nationality, the direct sprouting of the revival movement of Han costume more than ten years ago also came from this seemingly simple doubt, and behind it was the awakening of "cultural consciousness" and even "cultural crisis". LV Xiaowei saw the symbolism and intuition of clothing. In an interview with first finance and economics in 2019, LV Xiaowei elaborated the original intention of reviving Hanfu: "there is a threshold for the spread of traditional culture such as poetry, but there is no dress. As long as you like, you can wear it. After wearing it, the culture will spread out."

Hanfu has ushered in a golden period of development, which is not only due to the positive interaction between the promoters of Hanfu culture and Hanfu enthusiasts, but also due to various factors of "favorable timing and location". Nowadays, the class distinctiveness represented by the ancient dress etiquette system has been greatly weakened, while the national effect caused by its intuition is playing an increasingly important role in the international arena. For example, Hu Jingxuan, a girl born in the 90s, once studied in the Conservatory of music of the third University of Bordeaux in France, and played Guzheng music in Chinese clothes on the street and became popular abroad.

At the same time, Hanfu has also been sealed and recognized by the Chinese Communist Youth League and other official media. The fourth Chinese costume day, held on April 17, was held in * * and 19 classic show merchants including Bai Zhouji, Guanzhi weaving and Jinmeng Weiyang participated in the event. It is worth noting that there are two main brands of children's Hanfu, Chuli and Xiaohua Xiaoxia. The Communist Youth League of China carried out early publicity and live broadcast of the event.

However, it is an unavoidable issue to deal with the relationship between traditional inheritance and modern innovation if the Hanfu market in tuyere wants to take off. The aesthetic differences between ancient and modern times, the difference between the culture of small groups and the popularity of the general public line are also more and more widely discussed under the topic of Hanfu. In the market, the appearance of some "Hanfu" that deviates from the traditional form or integrates elements with great differences is beautiful. However, it is not recognized by the mainstream Hanfu circle, which also increases the difficulty in identifying novices.

"I think that Hanfu will and must be innovated, but innovation should be carried out on the basis of retaining some of the most basic characteristics of Hanfu." During the interview, Lin expressed her views on the improvement of Hanfu. "Although the Hanfu of different dynasties have different characteristics, some of the most basic features are almost the same, such as wide sleeves and wide sleeves, and the right lapel. The Hanfu gives people a sense of elegant beauty, which shows the spiritual connotation of the unity of man and nature and the harmony between man and nature. In fact, now we see that the Hanfu on Taobao is an improved Hanfu that integrates contemporary elements, but retains those basic features. If the most basic things are abandoned, then such clothes can only be said to be Han element costumes, not Hanfu. "

From the perspective of textual research, the clothing of Han nationality in history provides an endless treasure house for the improvement of modern Han clothing. Mr. Shen Congwen's 16 years of painstaking efforts in the study of ancient Chinese costumes, combined with a large number of historical materials, shows in detail the splendid multi-ethnic costume culture of ancient China for thousands of years. There are two main styles of clothing of Han nationality, i.e., upper garment, lower garment and upper garment. Women's upper garment has coat, hanging, shirt and robe, while lower garment is mainly trousers and skirt, which has its own characteristics in different dynasties and stages.

Zhou Xing, a professor at Aichi University in Japan, found that the word "Hanfu" was not commonly used in ancient times. Modern "Hanfu" is actually a kind of traditional costume imagined by the participants of Hanfu. Zhang Jian, Professor of China Youth Political College, also believes that "Hanfu" is a "class concept" formed by the advocates of Hanfu movement in order to publicize their own ideas and concepts and summarize the traditional dress traditions of the Han nationality before the Ming Dynasty.

However, in the foreword of the book "Han folk costume culture", the author Liang hui'e points out that "clothing is the dominant manifestation of human culture, the most intuitive and distinctive cultural symbol of a nation, and a cultural carrier with complex connotations."

In the current context, from personal aesthetic and clothing freedom to cultural heritage and international exchange, Hanfu needs the times and the times needs Hanfu.

When Hanfu finally came into the public view and even became a representative business card of Z era, it also sang praises for the revival of Hanfu to some extent. This enthusiasm has ignited the enthusiasm of the capital market. Just as "let Hanfu enter the homes of ordinary people" pursued by more than thirteen years ago, the broad prospect of Hanfu is undeniable, and whether it can be equated with the success of commerce is still unknown.

The think tank also interviewed some non Hanfu enthusiasts. Many people said that they could accept and appreciate Hanfu, and they would like to wear Hanfu on specific occasions such as taking photos or visiting the ancient city, but they would not buy Hanfu as their daily dress.

This answer is not unexpected. After all, Hanfu culture has been a kind of free growing minority group culture for a long time. Accepting Hanfu does not mean that everyone is willing to buy Hanfu. Just like a movie, the revival of Hanfu has made Hanfu a good reputation. If you want to take a popular and daily business route, you have to pay attention to it, The core problem to be solved is the problem of "selling seats".