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Clothing Is Not Only The Symbol Of Human Civilization And Progress, But Also The Most Intuitive Representative Of Social Trend Changes

2021/7/15 15:41:00 0

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Clothing From Extreme Shortage Towards World Brand Big Country Clothing

Clothing is not only the symbol of human civilization and progress, but also the most intuitive representative of social trend changes.

From the "scanty clothes and poor food" before the founding of new China, to the "blue, gray and black" of the people of the whole country, and to the clothing diversity that makes people blush when they bump into their clothes, a hundred year history of clothing change can be said to be the struggle history of the Communist Party of China leading the Chinese people to meet their yearning for a better life step by step.

"China Economic Weekly" interviewed Zhou Shaoxiong, chairman of Fujian qipilang Industrial Co., Ltd., which is a representative enterprise of Chinese clothing, and made a detailed discussion on the future development plan of Chinese clothing.

It is now forwarded to readers.

On the shore of the East China Sea, the seven wolves Chinese men's wear Museum in Jinjing Town, Jinjiang, Fujian Province. People can have a glimpse of the ups and downs of China's clothing industry in the past century. The wind rises and the tide rises. Jinjiang has been in the lead of the reform and opening-up. In the past 40 years, a number of domestic clothing brands have emerged. Seven wolves, Anta and Tebu are not only the leading enterprises in China's clothing industry, but also have sounded the clarion call of marching into the world in recent years.

"Now, China has become a big country in the world's clothing industry, and to a big brand country." Zhou Shaoxiong, chairman of Fujian seven wolf Industrial Co., Ltd., has been engaged in the clothing industry for more than 30 years. He told China Economic Weekly that at this stage, there is still a lack of fashion brand designers who can influence the world. Most of the fashion elements are influenced by others, not the fashion trend of others wearing China“ In the future, including the seven wolves, Chinese enterprises should contribute to leading the world fashion trend. " ?

Seven wolf is located in Jinjing Town, Jinjiang, Fujian Province

Eat well and wear warm clothes

In the TV drama "the awakening era", the figures of Li Dazhao and Chen Duxiu in long gowns have moved countless young people of generation Z today. Some netizens said: "after watching the TV series" awakening era ", I fell in love with Chinese style long shirts."

However, in 1921, 100 years ago, it was actually quite a luxury to wear a long gown, and more Chinese people were struggling in the situation of being naked.

At the beginning of the founding of the people's Republic of China in 1949, it was a top priority for China to solve the problem of food and clothing.

"New three years, old three years, sewing and mending three years" is the common life experience of the older generation. According to the data of the National Bureau of statistics, in 1950, China produced 437000 tons of cotton yarn, 2.5 billion meters of cotton cloth, 4.88 million meters of woolen cloth, and 5 million meters of ramie / linen. Today, polyester and nylon filament fabrics, which are very common today, are blank.

Such output means that the people at that time were very nervous about the fabric of a dress that was distributed on an average a year.

"In those days, if you could make a new dress, it was the happiest thing," recalled Yang Xiangzhu, 83 To this day, no matter how old a dress is, the old man is still reluctant to throw it away.

Under the extreme shortage, China implements the policy of unified purchase and marketing of cloth. On September 15, 1954, cloth tickets were issued in China. Cloth became the first kind of industrial consumer goods to be purchased with certificates. The national average was 20.83 feet.

At the same time, China is vigorously developing this basic industry which is related to the national economy and people's livelihood. In the 1950s, the key projects of the Soviet Union's assistance to China included textile industry projects. China also built five new textile bases in Shijiazhuang, Handan, Zhengzhou, Xi'an and Beijing, as well as a number of textile machinery factories. By 1978, China had built 153 textile machinery factories, relying on independent R & D and manufacturing complete sets of equipment, and established production bases of cotton, wool, silk, hemp, chemical fiber, printing and dyeing, basically forming a textile industry system with complete categories and complete supply chain, laying a solid foundation for the long-term development of China's textile industry.

Yang Xiangzhu is still wearing a dark blue Zhongshan suit made decades ago from time to time. "Now young people are looking for good looks and don't think they look good," he said. In the past, one had to have clothes to wear. Besides, it was very fashionable to wear a Zhongshan suit at that time

Bid farewell to blue, gray and black, establish a complete industrial chain

From the sea, clothing industry has become the vanguard of reform and opening up.

In 1979, Xiangzhou woolen textile factory was completed in Zhuhai, carrying out the business of "processing with supplied materials, assembling with supplied parts, processing with supplied samples and compensation trade", and became the first foreign-funded factory in reform and opening up.

During the reform of state-owned enterprises, Jiefang Daily once wrote that Bu Xinsheng, the director of Haiyan shirt factory, cut the curtain of China's enterprise reform with a pair of scissors.

On November 23, 1983, the former Ministry of Commerce announced that cotton cloth tickets would not be accepted and the supply of cotton cloth would be open from December. Since then, the 30-year-old tickets have been out of circulation.

At the same time, people are no longer satisfied with the monotony of blue, gray and black. The pursuit of clothing diversity has spawned the first batch of private clothing enterprises.

Zhou Shaoxiong recalled: "Xiamen is one of the first batch of special economic zones to be opened up, Quanzhou is a hometown of overseas Chinese, and is particularly sensitive to the opportunities of the era of reform and opening up. There are a lot of factories with" three supplies and one supplement. " Shishi, Jinjiang area of shoes and clothing processing factories have sprung up like mushrooms.

Once in a while, Zhou Shaoxiong found a business opportunity and came back to discuss with his two brothers. He resigned from the "iron rice bowl" of Xinhua Bookstore and went to the sea first. In 1985, the Zhou brothers set up a clothing craft factory in Jinjing, Jinjiang County, Fujian Province, taking the fabric trade as the breakthrough point, which took the first step to establish a fashion industry group.

In 1989, relying on the preferential policy of Sino foreign joint venture, Zhou brothers and "Hong Kong Yian trading company" jointly established Jinjiang Henglong Garment Co., Ltd. They built a three story factory building in Jinjing, Jinjiang, with a construction area of 3000 square meters, integrating residence, production workshop and office, which was rare at that time.

Different from other processing factories around him, Zhou attached great importance to product quality. At the beginning of his establishment, the company was equipped with 38 sets of Japanese "brother brand" second-hand sewing machines and 2 sets of Japanese "berinda" and "Tadao" computer embroidery machines, and recruited several ten excellent female workers from the local area to carry out the work.

Zhou Shaoxiong said that they had "the best factories, the best equipment and the best workers".

What's more, Zhou brothers have a strong sense of brand. Zhou Shaoxiong said that more than 30 years ago, many overseas Chinese in Jinjiang brought back clothes with logo and animal signs on them. People think that they are of high grade and young people like to chase them. "Why are these famous brands from abroad? Can we make our own brand? "

In 1989, the three brothers of Zhou Shaoxiong and four young people jointly established their own brand qipinlang in the clothing industry. In 1993, "Jinjiang Henglong Garment Co., Ltd." was renamed as "Fujian seven wolf garment industry Co., Ltd.". In 1993, seven wolves fully introduced the CIS corporate identity system, becoming one of the first enterprises to introduce CIS in the clothing industry.

With excellent quality and unique brand, seven wolf first entered the then Wangfujing Department store, Shanghai first department store and other shopping malls for the first time.

In 1995, seven wolves pioneered the fashion, took the lead in exploring the mode of clothing chain stores, opened the first store, and then spread all over the country for more than 10 years“ Dealers carry sacks to take goods, as long as it is to grab the seven wolf goods, is to make money. " Yu Ru, vice president of seven wolves, described the booming business of seven wolf stores at that time.

From the 1990s to the beginning of the 21st century, from Jinjiang in Fujian Province to Dongguan City in Guangdong Province, and then to Ningbo, Zhejiang Province, a large number of domestic garment enterprises have grown into industry leaders, formed industrial clusters in various places, and built an increasingly strong and huge industrial chain supply chain, making China a rare country with a complete industrial chain of clothing industry in the world.

"Red workshop" in qipilang factory

The party building hall of the "red wolf house" of seven wolves was unveiled in celebration of the Centennial founding of the party.

E-commerce impact, online and offline integration

In Zhou Shaoxiong's view, after 2010, China's clothing industry has entered a new stage of development“ More diversified lifestyle, more international brands to enter. The new generation has a higher level of education, a wider vision, and a greater proportion of cultural demand for clothing. "

In addition to these changes, another force to change the clothing industry comes from the industry, that is, the impact of e-commerce. In 2008, Taobao Mall was launched; In 2009, Taobao's "double 11" Shopping Festival was born, and since then there have been "618" and "double 12".

According to the data of the National Bureau of statistics, the national online retail sales will reach 11760.1 billion yuan in 2020, with a year-on-year increase of 10.9%. Among them, the online retail sales of physical goods reached 9759 billion yuan, an increase of 14.8%, accounting for 24.9% of the total retail sales of consumer goods, an increase of 4.2 percentage points over the previous year.

In 2021, "618" sales data still maintain a high growth trend. Jingdong said that from 0:00 on June 1 to 14:04 on June 18, Jingdong "618" had placed orders totaling more than 305.6 billion yuan. According to the data released by tmall, in the first hour of the morning of June 18, the turnover of tmall "618" increased by 100% year-on-year, reaching a new high.

The drastic changes in the channel and the overproduction of the clothing industry have made many once popular brands such as esprit, VeroModa, only and Giordano scattered in the tide of e-commerce.

Huang Bo, who plays a stupid thief in crazy stone, has a line: "brand! Benny road Benny road chain stores peaked at 4000, and now there are only more than 1000 left. Li Ning also lost 3.1 billion yuan in three years and closed 3000 stores.

According to Changjiang Securities Research Report, under the background of the continuous increase of e-commerce penetration rate, especially in the context of the epidemic in 2020, offline channels usher in a tide of shop closures, and the industry clearance accelerates. For the head brands, it is a good opportunity for the brand to "optimize the channel quality (adjust the location and expand the area)" or "accelerate the expansion", and the channel quality of representative brands will continue to be optimized. After experiencing the changes of external environment and in-depth changes of its own, domestic brands are sought after again by the market.

Zhou Shaoxiong said frankly that since 2013, septenaeus has expanded from a single offline store to a refined development“ Seven wolves have never lost money for so many years. Now there are billions of yuan in cash on the company's account. This year is the first year for the verification of the new business model. At present, the development momentum is very good. "

In 2020, the proportion of online revenue of seven wolves will reach 40%. According to the third-party data released in April 2021, seven wolf jacket ranked first in the market share of similar products for 21 consecutive years (2000-2020).

Zhou Shaoxiong's vision is to "be an attitude fashion brand, let Chinese fashion lead the world, and create a fashion quality life".

At present, China is the world's largest clothing producer, exporter and the most potential consumer market. In 2020, there will be about 170000 garment enterprises in China, with 16.2 million people engaged in clothing related industries. The annual output of clothing will be about 71.2 billion pieces, and the export value of clothing will reach 137.4 billion US dollars.

On June 19, Chen Dapeng, vice president of China Textile Industry Federation and President of China Garment Association, published a signed article. He said that since the founding of new China, especially since the 18th National Congress of the Communist Party of China, China's clothing industry has been growing steadily and has entered the ranks of the world's garment manufacturing powers. Facing a new development period, China's clothing industry should take advantage of the momentum to accelerate the pace of innovation, Strive to build a global fashion power with creativity, contribution and promotion in 2035.