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    The Inheritance Of Chinese Traditional Culture

    2021/11/9 17:21:00 0

    Hanfu

       Tang Jianjun / Wen

       Deputy director, national folk literature and art development center, Ministry of culture and Tourism

       Hanfu is a comprehensive cultural symbol system with protective clothing as the material form and excellent traditional Chinese culture as the core. Hanfu was born with the ancient Chinese civilization. After more than 5000 years of trials and hardships, Hanfu has been integrated into the blood of the Chinese nation. It is the carrier of national history, culture and spirit. Together with traditional Chinese food, architecture and Chinese characters, Hanfu has built a magnificent Chinese culture mansion. It is an important support for the great rejuvenation of the Chinese nation and an important part of the construction of a cultural power.

       Hanfu is an important symbol of the image system of Chinese excellent traditional culture. It is a cultural production and consumption custom guided and standardized by Chinese traditional philosophy. His works are the externalization of Chinese traditional philosophy, which is composed of the spirit of Chinese culture, the civilization of Chinese system and the shape of Chinese traditional dress. It has irreplaceable ideological value, political value, social value, artistic value and economic value. The revival of Hanfu, Sinology, traditional Chinese medicine, and traditional etiquette festivals constitute the overall rejuvenation to make up for the shortcomings of Chinese excellent traditional culture.

       Hanfu is the backbone of Chinese traditional costume. As the quintessence of Chinese culture, Hanfu runs through all dynasties and regions in Chinese history, and is a stable national cultural system created and shared by all Chinese people. Since Zhou Li regulated a complete system of dress etiquette system, although each dynasty was influenced by the dress system of "changing zhengshuo and changing the color of clothes", Hanfu always represented the national image of the Chinese nation before the Qing Dynasty, and won many good reputation for ancient China, such as "clothing on the country", "state of etiquette", "Brocade embroidered China". Han Dynasty clothing has been the undercurrent of Chinese clothing for more than 300 years. Even today, the details are still exquisite and valuable. There are as many as 12 items of clothing items listed in the UNESCO intangible cultural heritage list, including the manual weaving technology of Yunnan brocade, the weaving technology of song brocade, the weaving technology of silk, and the sericulture custom, and 225 items are listed in the national level. The central national work conference pointed out that it is necessary to correctly grasp the relationship between Chinese culture and national culture. The excellent traditional culture of all ethnic groups is an integral part of Chinese culture. Chinese culture is the backbone, and national culture is the branch and leaf. Only when the root is deep and strong can the branches and leaves flourish. Under the condition of the surging tide of the Chinese excellent traditional culture, the Hanfu, as a model of Chinese clothing for more than 5000 years, will surely glow with charm and richness, filling the gap of the Chinese nation which has no recognized orthodox clothing.

       Hanfu contains a Chinese discourse system constructed by the core concepts of "Tao follows the nature", "the heaven and the earth", "the unity of heaven and man", "Yin and Yang five elements" and "respect for the right". Since ancient times, Hanfu dress is full of praise and broad-minded, and often short clothes and wide sleeves. It has the internal character of elegant and grand, upright and generous, benevolent and free and easy, which shows the distinct Chinese style. Han clothing is elegant and profound. It reflects the aesthetic ideal of Chinese people to pursue whatever they want, not to exceed the rules, to be implicit and to keep Taihe. It has a unique Chinese style.

       The revival of Hanfu means the realization of a better life for the people. One is the acquisition of better material life. In the process of striving for the second Centennial goal, Hanfu is no longer a clothing wrapped in the cold, but the second skin of the human body with the ability to choose fabric, workmanship and price. It is a display of dividends brought by the decline of Engel index in the whole society. Second, higher enjoyment of spiritual and cultural life. Poetry and the distance in the distance is not only the space distance, but also the time distance. The return of Hanfu is not a crossing, but a real connection with history in terms of cognition, etiquette and festivals. It is the enrichment of cultural life, the improvement of aesthetic quality and the strengthening of spiritual character. A suit of Hanfu, sitting is a showcase of cultural cultivation, walking is the T stage of personal charm. Third, the establishment of a more clear identity of the Chinese nation. Japan, South Korea, Vietnam and India all take clothing as an important way to construct national identity under the background of globalization. Only by establishing the identity of Chinese people in an all-round way and putting on the symbolic costumes representing the spirit of contemporary Chinese culture, can the modernization of the Chinese nation be completed in a real sense, and the Chinese nation can be equally placed in the forest of nations in the world.

       The revival of Hanfu marks the effective construction of the community of common destiny of the Chinese nation. Hanfu was interrupted by the violent coercion of Manchu and Qing Dynasty, but the view that Hanfu was gradually disappearing was not tenable. Hanfu embodies the broad and profound cultural connotation, reposes the lasting strong national feelings, and radiates the brilliant artistic brilliance, which can not be annihilated by the change of dynasties. According to the history of Chinese civilization for more than 5000 years, the retirement of Hanfu is only a temporary phenomenon. Now the revival of Hanfu is actually the restart of Hanfu after its interrupted development. For more than 300 years, the development of Hanfu was interrupted by the change of dynasties, which was full of memories of blood and tears among ethnic groups; Due to the invasion of the great powers, along with the traditional Chinese culture, he was criticized and exiled, which was full of inner determination and sadness. The restart, development and rejuvenation of the Han nationality in the new era, especially the appearance of the new era Hanfu, which represents the unified temperament of the contemporary Chinese nation, can deepen the understanding of historical events related to ethnic relations, heal the historical trauma caused by ethnic conflicts, relieve the suspicion in the subconscious of brothers, enhance the feelings of compatriots of all ethnic groups in China, enhance national identity, national identity Cultural identity is of great significance.

       The revival of Hanfu shows the final perfection of the cultural image of the Chinese nation. Clothing and its etiquette system show a nation's social, cultural and political situation, is a national life customs, religious beliefs, aesthetic taste, moral concept of accumulation, represents the spiritual core of a nation. Mr. Zhong Jingwen said that in Chinese society, clothing is not only a part of life culture, but also a political symbol, which contains many symbolic and ideological ideas or their background. Among the 56 ethnic groups, the Han nationality is the only one without representative costumes. This is a great pity for the Chinese nation, which has a long history and high civilization, accounting for 92% of the population of 1.4 billion. In the system of Chinese clothing, no matter from the length of time, the thickness of connotation and the breadth of influence, Hanfu is the most representative of Chinese clothing and represents the future direction of Chinese clothing. As long as the Han nationality has no dress which represents their own identity, it is difficult to determine the identity dress of the whole Chinese nation; Once the Han nationality identity clothing was born, the problem of national costume representing the identity of the Chinese nation would be solved easily. The appearance and promotion of Hanfu in the new era will be China's major contribution to the world's fashion culture. The national image of the Chinese nation will be perfectly displayed in front of the world's ethnic groups in the fluttering clothes of the Hanfu, which will make the scenery of the world's national forest more beautiful. This will certainly be respected and blessed by other nationalities and become a major event in the cultural history of the Chinese nation, Major events in the construction of a global community of shared destiny.

       The revival of Hanfu in the new era has reached the point where everything is ready. First, there is a strong momentum of rejuvenation of Chinese excellent traditional culture. Since the beginning of the new era, the Chinese government has made arrangements for the revival of traditional culture from the top to the bottom, and has attached great importance to the excellent traditional Chinese culture, reaching an unprecedented level in the past century. General Secretary Xi Jinping is particularly fond of the excellent traditional Chinese culture. Standing at the strategic height of the great rejuvenation of the Chinese nation, he focused on the "five in one" overall layout and the "four comprehensive" strategic layout. He made more and more speeches on this issue every year. From a strategic perspective, he consolidated the basic position of his country's national roots, consistently affirmed the important role of his ideological guidance, wisdom source and spiritual support, and made the finishing point to put forward creative transformation Innovative development and other key measures provide fundamental guidance for the protection and inheritance of Chinese excellent traditional culture, and set an example for the people of the whole country to respect, protect and carry forward the tradition. Under the situation of the unity of the leadership's appeal, the party's executive power and the people's action power, along with China's becoming the world's largest developing country, especially the achievements made in the fight against the epidemic since last year, patriotism, love of the party, love of history and love of traditional culture are becoming national consciousness, and the recognition and return of the Chinese nation's culture, spirit and integrity are on the rise, The revival of Hanfu was accelerated.

       Second, the clothing industry has a strong productivity. There are 170000 garment manufacturing enterprises in China, with 8.26 million employees, and the annual total output of clothing is about 70 billion pieces. We have established a complete clothing industry system and obtained significant industrial advantages and competitiveness. By 2020, we have basically achieved the goal of building a powerful clothing manufacturing country. Under the severe situation of global epidemic situation, China's clothing industry has shown tenacious toughness and outstanding innovative spirit, and its product supply capacity, scientific and technological innovation ability and resource allocation ability have been steadily improved. China's made in China is transforming into China's creation, China's speed is changing to China's quality, and China's domestic products are transforming into Chinese brands. We are confident and able to complete the transformation by 2035 The goal of fashion power with contribution and promotion. The revival of Hanfu provides a way for China's clothing industry to lead the global industrial reform, enhance the creation of industrial value, and compete for the right of fashion discourse. The strong strength of the clothing industry provides sufficient production conditions for the revival of Hanfu.

       Third, the potential of both supply and demand sides of Hanfu market is strong. On the demand side, Hanfu enthusiasts increased from 300000 in 2014 to 3.56 million in 2019, an 11 fold increase in five years. As of October 2020, the number one Hanfu topic on Shuo Yin has been played 42.29 billion times, and there are about 13 Hanfu label bloggers with 2 million fans; There were 4.48 million discussions and 4.11 billion readings on the topic of "Hanfu" on Weibo; The total number of selected videos of Hanfu channel in station B was 1.11 billion, and the number of topic column views was 160 million. According to a survey, more than 62% of respondents are willing to buy, with 415 million potential users including overseas. On the production side, in the past 10 years, the annual registration of Hanfu related enterprises in China showed a year-on-year increase trend. For example, in 2018, there were more than 200 enterprises, reaching 226; There will be a huge growth in 2019, with 900 new registered enterprises in the whole year, with a year-on-year growth of 298.2%. On the sales side, the data shows that the market size of Guochao clothing has increased from 309 billion yuan in 2015 to 608.4 billion yuan in 2019, with an annual compound growth rate of 17.2%. In 2018, there were 815 exclusive Taobao stores in Hanfu, an increase of 160 over the same period of last year. The annual sales amount of "hanshanghualian" with the best sales performance reaches 80 million yuan, and the annual output value of others such as "returning to the Han and Tang Dynasties", "more than thirteen years" and "Lan ruotang" has reached more than 10 million yuan.

       According to the goal of building a socialist cultural power in 2035, the first thing to revive Hanfu is to strengthen theoretical research. In terms of cognition, Hanfu is not a static unearthed cultural relic, but a living social custom. We should use the viewpoint of development to understand Hanfu. If we say that the traditional Hanfu is the dress of the Han nationality, the new era Hanfu is based on the traditional Hanfu, absorbs the gene of minority costume, suits the needs of contemporary people and represents the Chinese nation. We should strengthen the research on the function of cultural integration, make the new era Hanfu become the common symbol of the whole Chinese nation, and construct the cultural gene of the Chinese nation's community of common destiny. Ideologically, we should strengthen the research and interpretation of Hanfu, deeply study and explain the historical origin, development context and basic trend of Hanfu, profoundly clarify that Hanfu is an important component of Chinese excellent traditional culture, profoundly clarify that the inheritance and development of Hanfu are the practical needs of building a socialist cultural power, and profoundly clarify that Hanfu is enriched and developed through constant exchanges and mutual learning with other ethnic costumes, Efforts should be made to build a theoretical system and discourse system of Hanfu with Chinese heritage and Chinese characteristics. In terms of attributes, Hanfu includes cultural attributes and natural attributes, which are inseparable and equally important. The cultural attribute constitutes the spiritual value of Hanfu, and the natural attribute constitutes the economic value of Hanfu. Ignoring the natural attribute, there is no foundation for the revival of Hanfu; Ignoring the cultural attribute, the revival of Han costume can not be sustained. It is necessary to study the classics handed down from the book of songs, Shangshu, Zhouli, Liji, and the records of the Twenty-Four Histories and public clothes, and study the intangible cultural heritage projects of spinning, dyeing, weaving, embroidery and local ethnic costumes, so as to make up for the lack of understanding of the cultural attributes of Han clothing, and provide theoretical support for the design and production of Hanfu.

       The second is to give full play to various forces. The clothing system is an important national system. Every Chinese dynasty took inheriting Han's clothing as a sacred national event. Therefore, the Twenty-Four Histories compiled the records of public service. As a national act, in 2017, the general office of the CPC Central Committee and the general office of the State Council issued the opinions on the implementation of the project of inheriting and developing Chinese excellent traditional culture, and proposed to "implement the Chinese festival etiquette clothing plan, design and produce a series of costumes that show the unique cultural charm of the Chinese nation", "To study and put forward the social etiquette, clothing, and civilized language standards to carry on the traditional customs and meet the requirements of modern civilization", and make an overall plan for the revitalization of traditional clothing It is required to formulate an action plan for the revival of Hanfu, do a good job in top-level design, and arrange the timetable and task statement for the revival of Hanfu. The central department in charge of civilization construction plays a comprehensive and coordinating role, integrates all kinds of resources, mobilizes all forces, and promotes the formation of a pattern of inheritance and development of Hanfu with the joint efforts of the party, the government and the masses, relevant departments and the whole society The industry is an important cultural industry. The cultural and tourism system should bring Hanfu into the scope of intangible cultural heritage and tourism work, so as to provide cultural and market guarantee for the inheritance of Hanfu. The news media should strengthen the propaganda of Hanfu, spread the culture of Hanfu with great fanfare, and create a good atmosphere of public opinion at home and abroad for the revival of Hanfu.

       Third, step by step promotion and application. Since the return of China, Hanfu has attracted extensive attention and gathered a preliminary group of enthusiasts. It has become a "national tide" scenery in clothing press conferences and tourist areas, and has become a fire that triggered a prairie fire. However, it is still far from the goal of the revival of Hanfu. It is suggested that the specific promotion steps are as follows: in the scene, artistic clothes should be replaced by formal clothes. At present, the wearing of Hanfu still belongs to the category of displaying artistic beauty in specific cultural space. In the future, Hanfu can be promoted as a dress to the state, society, life ceremony, as well as the workplace of cultural, educational, scientific and technological institutions and enterprises, and finally to the daily life of the people. In terms of category, the national service and the industry service are the common service. Party and state leaders, diplomats, government officials, and celebrities from all walks of life took the lead in advocating the use of Hanfu as a formal dress in foreign affairs activities and major festivals, followed by education, science, culture, health, sports, industry, agriculture, business, etc., and finally introduced Hanfu with industry characteristics to the general public in urban and rural areas. In the crowd, it's the youth and the children and the rest. At present, 91% of the Han clothing lovers are young people aged 16 to 35, and most of them are women. According to this, it can be set to push away from the youth who advocate tradition and pursue fashion, and then popularize it to infants and young children, and then to the people over 36 years old. Regionally, it is from city to town to country; In the season, the clothes are from spring and autumn to cold and summer; In terms of country, the Chinese and the international people will eventually form a magnificent scene covering the whole society, life and climate.

       Standing at the intersection of two hundred years of history, and taking advantage of the vast east wind of the Chinese nation from standing up, getting rich and becoming strong, we have reason to believe that there is the only country with an ancient civilization, which has a strong and lasting trend of traditional cultural renaissance as its consumption power, abundant capital investment from the largest developing country, and unparalleled product production capacity of a large manufacturing country, With the prospect of a consumption market of more than 9.6 million square kilometers in which the community of common destiny of the Chinese nation has been living for generations, and the common prosperity of modern powerful socialist countries with Chinese characteristics as the guarantee of purchasing power, the great rejuvenation of Hanfu, like the great rejuvenation of the Chinese nation, has entered an irreversible track of times, and the dream of Hanfu will surely become the most brilliant and splendid vision of a powerful socialist culture The happiest chapter!

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