? Sleeve classification
? 1. According to the length: no sleeve, shoulder band sleeve, short sleeve, half sleeve, medium sleeve and long sleeve 2. According to the connection method with the body: sleeve (search sleeve) and one piece sleeve 3. According to the number of sleeve pieces: one piece, two pieces, multiple pieces 4. According to fit degree: loose sleeve, fit sleeve and general sleeve
Name of each part of sleeve
Relationship between sleeve height and sleeve fertilizer
Fitted sleeve
Drawing of a fitted sleeve
? One sleeve into two sleeves
? Drawing of two piece sleeves by point method
? Sleeve mountain
?
Pattern design
Sleeves are influenced by fashion styles and have various changes. No matter what kind of shape, they can be changed from the sleeve prototype. The following is a variety of sleeve styles made of sleeve prototype.
? 1. Petal sleeve with tight cuff
? This style is a kind of short sleeve with petal shape as decoration. The front and back sleeve pieces overlap each other, and there is no need to sew. The manufacturing steps are as follows: ① First draw a tight cuff short sleeve piece. ② Draw the front and back petal shaped sleeves according to the style requirements. The cuffs are curved and the front and back sleeves overlap each other. ③ Copy the front and back sleeve pieces, which can connect the front and back sleeves, so that there is no seam at the bottom of the sleeve. ④ Mark the matching number and longitude number of suture with armhole.
? 2. Add shoulder pad sleeve
? This style is the sleeves with shoulder pads on the shoulders. Because of the shoulder pad, you need to change the shoulder slope, the size of the change depends on the thickness of the shoulder pad. The manufacturing steps are as follows: ① According to the thickness of the shoulder pad, change the shoulder slope of the front and back pieces of the body. Draw a line about 5cm below the shoulder point to the intersection of the collar and shoulder line. ② Cut the two lines, fix the neck side point, raise the cut pattern, the opening height is equal to the thickness of shoulder pad, and smooth the armhole line after opening. In this way, the thickness of shoulder pad is better than that of lifting shoulder pad directly from shoulder point, and the angle formed after the suture of anterior and posterior shoulder line can be kept unchanged. ③ The sleeve is about 6cm downward from the top of the sleeve cap. Cut the pattern as shown in the figure and open it to both sides. The opening distance should be equal to the sum of the opening dimensions of the front and rear armholes, that is, the thickness of the shoulder pad, so as to ensure that the curve length of the sleeve cap curve is equal to that of the armhole when stitching. ④ Mark the matching number of armhole and sleeve cap curve and the warp number of each piece.
? 3. Decorative flared sleeves
? This style is a kind of sleeve which is divided into two parts by curve at elbow. The sleeve shape above elbow is straight shape, and sleeve type below elbow is trumpet shape. The drawing is as follows:
? 4. Pleated sleeve
? The sleeves can be made into various styles by pleating. The pleats can be designed at the cuff, sleeve cap or other parts. This style is sleeve type, which is the style of ordinary short sleeve. The manufacturing steps are as follows: ① Draw a short sleeve piece from the sleeve prototype. ② According to the style requirements, only the upper part of the sleeve cap is pleated, and other parts remain unchanged. ③ Draw a dividing line on the upper part of the sleeve cap. Cut it and open it outwards. The size of the opening depends on the amount of pleats on the sleeve cap. Use the curve to smooth the sleeve cap. ④ Mark the pleat number, alignment number and longitude number. If you make three darts at the sleeve hill, the appearance is similar to the style above. When making, cut and open the dart according to the position of the seam dart. The dart end point can be placed on the arc of the sleeve hill of the original sleeve.
? 5. Lantern Sleeve
? The lantern sleeve, also known as bubble sleeve, is a kind of sleeve shape with sleeve cap, cuff pleated and loose middle, with various styles. This paper introduces the production of five kinds of Lantern shaped sleeves. This style is a kind of common lantern sleeve. The upper and lower ends are shrunk and tightened, and the middle is expanded. The manufacturing steps are as follows: ① Draw the base sleeve piece according to the length required by the style. ② In order to match the wearing effect, the sleeve of the lantern sleeve can be slightly inserted into the shoulder point, and the front and back pieces are trimmed into 1cm from the shoulder point respectively, and the sleeve hill of the sleeve is filled with 1cm. ③ It's not usually done at the top and bottom of the armpit, because it's not divided into five folds. ④ Draw a guide line perpendicular to the sleeve center line on the sleeve pattern, then cut it according to the split line and open along the guide line. The opening amount is determined according to the amount of pleat. Generally, it can increase the length of the original sleeve ridge by 0.5-1 times. ⑤ Due to the need of expanding the shape of the lantern sleeve, it is necessary to heighten the sleeve cap and cuff, and the amount of heightening is generally the same as the opening width at the middle of the sleeve. ⑥ At the raised cuff line and cuff line, draw the new sleeve cap line and cuff line.
? 6. Lantern sleeves with loose cuffs
? This design is similar to the shape of the trumpet shaped short sleeve. In order to make the cuff bulge after being folded, add about half of the opening amount in the middle of the sleeve at the cuff position.
? 7. Lantern Sleeve with cuffs attached
? This pattern is a loose lower end, and because the cuffs are not separated, the sleeves are more concise and agile. When making, we should pay attention to the position of segmentation and the size of relaxation.
? 8. Bishop sleeve
? This style is a kind of long Lantern Sleeve with a lot of pleats on the cuff. In order to make the sleeve beautiful, the opening width of the back sleeve piece should be about one borrowing larger than that of the front sleeve piece. At the same time, the sleeve opening is about 2-4cm in length. Draw a 6cm long opening at the middle crease line of the back sleeve piece, trim 0.5cm into both sides, and handle the opening with rolling strip. The length of the cuff is 2 m of wrist circumference and 1.5 cm of the door, and the width is about 4 cm.
? 9. Various styles and colors of sleeves
? A. Wing short sleeve drawing
? ? B. Cap sleeve drawing
? ?
C. Decorative sleeves
10. Dress sleeves
（1）
?
（2）
（3）
? One piece sleeve pattern design
Sleeve refers to the sleeve and a part of the body connected together, forming a special shape of sleeve, such as raglan sleeve, kimono sleeve, bat sleeve, etc. Although the cut of armhole is omitted, the one-piece sleeve has the same fit appearance as the normal sleeve, and the shoulder line is smooth and smooth, so it is widely used in the design of front jacket, overcoat and sportswear.
? 1. Raglan sleeves
? This style is a wide yoke raglan sleeve attached to the sleeve. In order not to affect the fitness of the garment, the increased part of the sleeve should be subtracted from the corresponding piece. Due to the wide shoulder yoke attached to the sleeve, the sleeve center line and shoulder line need to be separated. When the sleeves are opened according to the sleeve center line at the corresponding sleeve height, the shrinkage of 1.5cm can be directly removed by one treatment method due to the shrinkage of the original sleeve cap; The other is to raise the shoulder point by 2cm to align with the sleeve cap without removing the shrinkage, and then use the line to smooth it.
? 2. Raglan sleeves
A. Ordinary horn sleeve
? The style is a kind of diagonal split line from the shoulder line to the armhole, so that the shoulder of the garment body is connected with the sleeve, forming a long arm visual effect. Some sportswear and overcoats use this kind of sleeve style. Because it looks like the horn of an ox, it is also called ox horn sleeve, and it is called raglan sleeve in foreign countries. The manufacturing steps are as follows: ① The front shoulder line is divided into 1cm to fill the back shoulder line, which is to put the prototype shoulder line back to the normal shoulder line of human body. The center line of the prototype sleeve is shifted 1cm forward. ② Mark the line between the front and back pieces from the shoulder and keep the distance between the front and back pieces and the armhole. ③ Put the shoulder separated from the front and back garment pieces on the corresponding front and back sleeve hill, so that the two points B and D on the armhole coincide with the sleeve Hill arc, and the front and rear shoulder points a and C coincide with the sleeve Hill arc (or leave 1cm away), and smooth the shoulder with lines. ④ Reduce the top of the sleeve by 3cm, and separate the sleeve by the front and back. Mark the alignment number and longitude number.
B. Low armhole gusset
? The style is a low armhole oxhorn sleeve. Because the style line is divided under the armhole, when the front and back pieces are placed on the corresponding sleeve cap, it is necessary to cut and open it. The manufacturing steps are as follows: ① The method is the same as shown in a in the figure, and the low armhole is trimmed by 2.5cm, and the body is widened by 2cm. ② Mark the two split lines from the neckline to the lower armhole of the front and back pieces, and keep the distance between the front and back pieces under the armpits (about 2.5-4cm). ③ Place the part separated from the front and back pieces on the corresponding sleeve cap, so that the two points B and D on the armhole coincide with the corresponding sleeve cap, and the front and rear shoulder points a and C coincide with the top of the sleeve cap (or leave 1cm, it can be seen that the lower part of the armhole and the sleeve will overlap. ④ To match the shape of the sleeve, cut the armhole pattern one by one from the position below two points in BD, and make a horizontal line 2.5cm below both ends of the sleeve cap line. Open the armhole pattern in turn so that it just extends to this line. ⑤ Use the curve to smooth the open line and draw the enlarged sleeve fat line again. The front and back sleeves can be separated according to the sleeve center line, or not. Subtract unnecessary pleats from the top of the sleeve cap. ⑥ If you want to increase the activity of the arm, you can cut and open the armpit of the sleeve to reduce the height of the sleeve. ?
? 3. Jumpsuit
? This style is a bat sleeve with a wide sleeve cage. In order to facilitate arm movement, the shoulder should not be too slanted, but can be made into horizontal shape. The common painting method is to raise the shoulder point by about 2cm, and draw the sleeve center line from the shoulder line all the time. There is no specific regulation on the armpit fat, which can be determined according to the design concept. ?
Pattern design of cuff style
1. Straight cuff
2. Double cuff
? 3. Cuff cracking
? 4. Ring cuff
? 5. Knight cuff
?
summary
Although the style of sleeves is changeable, there are two basic types of structure: the type of sleeves and the type of one-piece sleeves. The sleeve type is that the sleeve is separated from the body, and can be designed into various kinds of color sleeves. The sleeve style is colorful and full of decorative effect by using the processing methods of segmentation, pleating, punching and waves. The sleeve type is the sleeve type connecting the sleeve and the body, which can be connected with the body as a whole. For example, the sleeve type of national style can also be partially connected with the body to form various kinds of raglan sleeves or raglan sleeves, so that the sleeves have the characteristics of generous shape and easy to put on and off.
Source: clothing designer clothing plate making, cutting and sewing course
A brief introduction to "China garment version teachers' union"
The China garment printing teachers' Union (hereinafter referred to as "the alliance") is a working mechanism established by China Garment Association for enterprises and colleges and universities engaged in relevant technology, scientific research and application in the field of national garment plate making to promote the development of China's garment plate making industry. The alliance adheres to the purpose of serving the industry, and constantly selects and cultivates more excellent technical talents with international vision and level through professional training, professional competitions, and industry investigation, exchange and cooperation at home and abroad, so as to enhance the exchange and cooperation among garment technicians, enterprises, colleges and governments, Promote the improvement of the skills and comprehensive quality of China's garment technical personnel, and promote the transformation and upgrading of China's clothing industry and the healthy and sustainable development of the industry.
