The Silk Fabrics In Bai Juyi'S Poems Thousands Of Years Ago Are Constantly Explored

People will use silk to describe exquisite silk fabrics.

In the history of China, "silk and satins" ranked first, and were popular in the Tang Dynasty.

How famous is Diao Ling? Bai Juyi, a poet of the Tang Dynasty, once wrote a poem under the name of Liao Ling. In his poem, he wrote, "What is the similarity between the silk and the silk? It is not like the silk and the wan qi. It should be like the 45 foot waterfall spring on Tiantai Mountain before the last month and the next morning."

In Bai Juyi's writing, the silk ribbon should be the waterfall and clear spring on Tiantai Mountain, under the bright moon, flying down. How beautiful are the patterns of the silk ribbon? Bai Juyi wrote that "there are articles and wonders in it. The ground is paved with white fireworks and clusters of snow", describing the pattern woven on it, as if a layer of white smoke was spread on the bottom, and clusters of patterns were like clusters of white snow.

What is the Diao Ling described by Bai Juyi? For a long time, it has become a secret that people are always talking about.

Recently, the press conference of the new book "Looking for Diaoyin: Bai Juyi's Diaoyin Poetry and Tang Silk" was held in Shanghai Exhibition Center. Zhao Feng followed the research clues to find a piece of Tang Dynasty silk from the underground palace of Famen Temple, and copied the cultural relics completely, making the ancient beauty of "spring clothes worth thousands of gold" amazing to the world.

What is more surprising is that this restored silk robe was woven by Haining Tianyi Textile Co., Ltd., an enterprise in Haining.

Why did you choose Haining as a textile enterprise? What's special about it? Recently, the reporter went to Tianyi Textile to explore the story behind the revival of Ling Ling.

Biodegradable nylon fabric, recyclable acetic acid fabric... Entering the fabric exhibition hall of Tianyi Textile, all kinds of patterns and colors are dazzling, showing the technology and innovation of the enterprise. All along, Tianyi Textile has focused on technological innovation and sustainable development, especially adding environmental protection elements in the process of new product research and development, and developing biodegradable and sustainable fabrics.

This time, we participated in weaving silk, making a breakthrough in the enterprise's weaving technology innovation. "This activation of silk covered bathrobes is mainly divided into four steps: determining patterns, weaving, dyeing, and sewing bathrobes. Weaving is an important step in determining the success of silk covered bathrobes. After receiving the task, we organized a professional research and development team to tackle the weaving problems." Lu Jianping, general manager of Tianyi Textile, told reporters that it is more appropriate to weave silk covered bathrobes with traditional jacquard looms, However, due to industrialization, time, cost and other reasons, we finally chose to use modern looms to imitate and weave silk damask fabrics.

How do modern looms weave ancient textiles? This especially tests the R&D and innovation ability of enterprises. "Through data research and consulting experts, we finally simulated the traditional jacquard building machine by reducing the weaving speed of the machine." Yu Yongting, a research and development designer of Tianyi Textile, said that reducing the speed will increase the difficulty of weaving, which is easy to cause brittle breakage of yarn.

Finally, the Tianyi Textile R&D team focused on tackling key problems, finally found the balance between handicrafts and machine production, and successfully developed an electronic jacquard machine that conforms to the traditional weaving process and various technical parameters. "It has greatly improved the production efficiency of silk ribbon, and laid a good foundation for enterprises to industrialize silk ribbon in the future," Lu Jianping said.

In order to reproduce the original damask, Tianyi Textile has a special production line for damask research and development. The pressing team worked day and night for more than two months, and finally woven the most similar bathrobe silk restoration fabric in pattern, feel, density, etc. Zhao Feng's team also carried out subsequent dyeing and other processing, and finally restored the Diao silk bathrobe.

During the whole interview, listening to Lu Jianping's talk about the "rebirth" process of Diao Ling, it seems simple, but in fact, it is not easy for any textile enterprise to do so.

Tianyi Textile has extremely mature brocade technology and strong R&D strength. It has provided clothing fabrics for major events for many times, which is also a major advantage and foundation for the enterprise to recover the silk.

It is not the first time that Tianyi Textile has become attached to traditional clothes to restore the silk ribbon. Previously, Tianyi Textile cooperated with teacher Chu Yan and Shandong Museum and invested 300000 yuan to restore a precious Ming Dynasty dress in the museum.

Today, art reproduction of ancient costumes, improved Han style clothing and new Chinese style fashion are two major business segments of the brand. In recent years, through professional research and joint development with major museums in China, the company has sought samples from murals and cultural relics to restore clothing in various historical periods in China.

Tianyi Textile will continue to take the research and production of Chinese traditional clothing as an important development direction, focus on creativity, combine traditional technology with fashion, integrate eastern and western cultures, and promote technological innovation and upgrading of enterprises. "At the same time, we will strengthen the interaction with the fashion sector and produce different fruits and flowers in different fields," said Lu Jianping.

(Source: Zhejiang Daily)