"The Strongest Supply Chain In The Clothing Industry Is In Guangzhou, But Good Clothing Design Needs To Go To Shenzhen.
"The strongest supply chain in the clothing industry is in Guangzhou, but good clothing design needs to go to Shenzhen."
"Many of our clothing releases are going to Italy. Even if Chinese enterprises want to copy others' designs, they can't copy them."
Dai Xin, Executive Dean of Zhongshi Digital Economy Research Institute and Deputy Director of the Experimental Center of School of Software Engineering, Sun Yat sen University, and Xie Hong, a deputy to the Provincial People's Congress and president of the Provincial Association for the Promotion of Small and Medium Enterprises, recently held a dialogue.
Traditional industries play an extremely important role in the composition of Guangdong's manufacturing industry. They have long played the role of "pillar" and "ballast". How can we promote the transformation and upgrading of traditional industries and constantly stimulate new energy and vitality of industries? Southern+reporters looked on and sorted out the dialogue.
Buy bargains in Guangzhou, good design in Shenzhen
Dai Xin mentioned that although Guangzhou is the place with the thickest soil in the clothing industry, it is difficult for designers to grow in scale in Guangzhou. If you want to buy good style designs, you should go to Shenzhen Nanyou to find them.
Xie Hong raised his own question, why did the designer not want to stay in Guangzhou?
Dai Xin replied that the design value is difficult to be respected by the industry in Guangzhou. Most of the three clothing wholesale markets plagiarize from each other. So homogeneity leads to low price, low price leads to poor quality, and the vicious circle of competition. The consensus of the industry is that if you want to buy cheap products, you can go to Guangzhou, and if you want to buy good designs, you should go to Shenzhen. One big problem lies in the existing industrial pattern operation mode. It is difficult to protect the designers' original creation, and the value created is easy to be stolen.
"Is there a good intellectual property protection mechanism in Shenzhen?" Xie Hong wondered.
Dai Xin said that it is really difficult to identify and protect the intellectual property rights of clothing, but Shenzhen at least made a gesture to find ways to protect them. In addition, Shenzhen has spent a lot of money to support the fashion industry, including promoting Shenzhen Fashion Week and other activities. Designers have subsidies for settling down, and the corresponding parks have corresponding supporting facilities. After holding the banner of high-tech innovation and development in Shenzhen, we also realized that we still need the warmth and warmth of fashion and humanity. The textile and clothing industry in Guangzhou has always been in a barbaric state of growth. Because it is dirty, disorderly and poor, the government always wants to manage you, with more restrictions than support.
"Then why do designers in Guangzhou like copying, but not in Shenzhen?" Xie Hong asked again.
"Shenzhen is not a loser, but every family in Shenzhen is very careful to protect their new models as much as possible." Dai Xin said that, more importantly, the small design officials in Shenzhen have more opportunities to realize their new designs than those in Guangzhou. Guangzhou has no designer gathering place like Nanyou, so it lacks large-scale market services to help designers realize opportunities. In addition, Shenzhen business people pay more attention to image. Local tycoons in Guangzhou wear slippers to make a fortune. Designers in Shenzhen are more likely to find a market willing to pay for design.
What's the difference between our design and that of Italy
Speaking of fashion industry design, no one in the industry knows Italy.
Xie Hong said that Italy's manufacturing industry cannot compete with that of East Asia, so it is transforming into a city of fashion, exhibition and brand, and moving towards a higher value-added sector. During Milan Fashion Week, the whole city is an exhibition hall, and the design is broken into parts. The public space is full of various creative designs, rather than like us, who like to build a world first exhibition hall. All the designs are here.
"If the politicians think that creative design will not directly create taxes, they may not attach importance to it." Xie Hong analyzed.
He continued, why do many of our garment industries go to Italy? Previously, Italy held four press conferences a year, but now it holds eight; Chinese enterprises have to copy, but they can't even copy.
Even if Italian designers were invited, it was still unsuccessful. Xie Hong analyzed that, because Guangdong's clothing industry is based on transactions, while Italy is mainly based on exhibitions, where designers display their products and fully display them in every space of the city.
"We are still the concept of goods, aiming at transactions; Italy is aiming at design, showing brands." Xie Hong said that one is for factories, and the other is for audiences. Different objects lead to different ideas.
How to let global designers come to China for fashion release
"I have an idea to turn Guangzhou into a fashion design center." Dai Xin said that it can attract European and American designers to Guangzhou, because one month can earn one year's money.
What is the biggest problem in the clothing industry? The general answer is overstock. But Dai Xin's answer is that the cost of making sample clothes is so high that original designs are suppressed.
Making sample clothes looks simple. But in fact, this is not just a simple design and implementation problem. On the one hand, making sample clothes requires efficient and complete materials, otherwise it is difficult for a skilled woman to make bricks without straw; On the other hand, a slightly more complicated garment involves many processing links, including printing, embroidery, bead nailing, bright diamonds, and so on.
Guangzhou has such a detailed division of labor in these links, which is difficult to do abroad. For example, the cost of finding materials in Guangzhou is 1/50 of that in Italy, and the cost of printing is 1/100. An Italian designer who stays in Guangzhou for one month can transform his ideas about local culture and fashion design into sample clothes at a high efficiency and low cost.
Furthermore, the fast turnaround supply chain in Guangzhou can help foreign designers sell to their home countries and help them develop their businesses through small orders, fast turnaround production, cross-border e-commerce and other channels and logistics. If we do a good job in style design and development in Guangzhou, we will follow the trend and release it.
"In this way, designers from all over the world are willing to come to China and do fashion releases, and Guangzhou will become an international fashion center," Dai Xin said.
Xie Hong took it as saying that the development of industry depends on what you put in C position. A few years ago, Guangzhou was built into an "e-commerce city", but many talents went to Hangzhou, because the elements are in Hangzhou, and they want what they want when they come; Another example is Suzhou, where the talents who go there are listed as talent pool locally. More than 20 departments have issued documents together. All agriculture, forestry, animal husbandry, sideline fisheries have talent policies. The enterprise has not yet communicated with the service, and is ready to support the implementation at any time. But Guangzhou still likes to see off the shelf.
"The government should do the things that lose money"
"A lot of things, on the surface, are the result of the system output." Xie Hong said that the separation of some ideas is actually the result of the system output.
He said why the global lock industry should be located in Xiaolan Design Center. Because once a part cannot be ordered, it will affect the overall supply chain; However, the cost of opening a mold is very high. A few decades ago, the government spent more than 20 million yuan to create a public service platform to focus on mold opening and printing for small and medium-sized enterprises.
"If there is a loss or no supply, the government should do it; if the market can supply, the market should do it. The government should specifically do the loss," Xie Hong said.
Xie Hong also pointed out a phenomenon: why did the first Industrial Revolution break out in Britain, while the second Industrial Revolution broke out in Germany?
He replied that because of the first industrial revolution, textile and steam engines were developed around cotton, Britain became a trading market, developing futures, finance, insurance and legal services, making more money than industrial products.
However, what does Germany learn? It focuses on manufacturing, strives for perfection, and embeds craftsman's skills into the social system. "This is also the result of institutional output," Xie Hong said.
Dai Xin is thoughtful. He said that in the future, foreign designers will also be attracted to China for win-win cooperation, and more importantly, they will help them to start a career and earn higher value-added design brand income. While China continues to do a good job in the service and production supply chain, it also cultivates the local design atmosphere.
"Now I'm not going to rob your jobs, but to support you and make money together," Dai Xin said.
Xie Hong concluded that the most difficult thing is government transformation. The society is changing, and the government cannot continue the original mode of incremental economic development. For example, "industrial development" is similar to the real estate model if it is still the past investment driven mode. First build the building, and then introduce the production line. This is unsustainable. In fact, some local industrial parks have not been fully utilized.
Why should I finish the sample clothes in 1 to 3 days
Guangdong has also realized this problem.
Dai Xin said that there are a large number of independent designers in the clothing industry, and they are very depressed because the size of the beginning is very small, and the market is unwilling to serve them, so we should do a good job in the service ecosystem.
Why is it important to make sample clothes after style design? "How can I let others know the pattern in my mind? Traditionally, it is to make a manuscript, but now it is to use 3D virtual method, but before placing an order and making goods, it must be confirmed as a sample garment."
The current industrial pattern, even in the core area of the industry such as the Zhongda cloth market, it takes a month or even longer for a woman's dress with design and decoration to form a concept in her mind to make a sample dress. Because of the materials, many processing links are scattered in the villages in the city one by one, and may be modified greatly or slightly because of the small quantity, They put your order behind. 30 days is fast. This is why the order meeting for traditional clothing should be held three months to half a year in advance.
Now, it is expected to complete the sample garment in one to three days by concentrating all links in one building and digitally scheduling all processing links at an hourly and minute pace. This means that with the help of the shared printing center, the time efficiency of printing development can be 10-15 times faster, and the comprehensive cost can be 1/10.
Dai Xin revealed that at present, with the support of the digital transformation policy of the industrial cluster of the Provincial Department of Industry and Information Technology, an ecological consortium is being formed, including China Telecom, China Unicom and other operators. It has initially selected the property at the core of the medium and large cloth market, planned to build "Guangzhou Fashion Innovation Incubation Base", realized the development of a comprehensive service center for printing, and concentrated the scattered needs, It is an innovative and bold idea to promote the digital transformation of the clothing industry.
Xie Hong said that there were not so many places in Shenzhen, so he worked hard on talents. "Industrial upstairs" is not a simple production line or workshop upstairs, but related service industries, such as design and marketing, and other productive service industries, go upstairs to provide services around the chain owner enterprises.
"To develop fashion and design industries, we need to increase the development of productive services, and we need digital platforms to support the new industrial system of the innovative ecological network." Dai Xin said that to develop the fashion industry, a better new model will emerge.
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