Does Chanel Need A Brand Change Promoter?

Chanel has just concluded the 2020 holiday series press conference, which is unusual.

The The Grand Palace in Paris is more quiet and spacious than ever, and the space seems to be larger. Under the city signs of "Venice" or "San Tso Pepe", there are single rows of wooden benches, and the ground is covered with cold gray concrete.

Before the conference, the guests had breakfast upstairs, and the scene was like a dining car in the Orient Express.

After breakfast, people walk down the "train" and walk on the platform, eagerly looking forward to the brand debut of Virginie Viard, which is inspired by travel this season.

Karl Lagerfeld, with its vision, has made this forgotten classic old brand into the world's most sought after "super luxury brand".

After his death, Chanel appointed the former studio director Virginie Viard to take the baton and wanted consistency.

Before the launch, Bruno Pavlovsky, President of the Chanel fashion department, said the design of Viard was "the same as before, but not the same."

"She knows the inside and outside of Chanel," he said. "She used to be a left arm and a right arm. Now she is ready to write a new chapter in Chanel history."

Of course, now Viard shows the first series as Chanel art director, no one will think she will come out to express herself (she also declined all media interviews).

But whether Chanel or the whole industry, everyone is trying to adapt to the fashion world of the post Lagerfeld era.

But for the most crucial question, her conference failed to answer the question: "this is a start..."

Is it an end?

To be responsible, Viard really needs time to define what Chanel she is controlling.

Prior to the source, Lagerfeld had arranged for the concept of the series before the death of the series.

Today, we can see this fashion designer's usual recipe: color sense (crayon hue and black), and fresh interpretation of the classic elements of fashion houses such as fences, imitation lambs, box jackets, etc.

Viard even paid tribute to the unforgettable Lagerfeld image with the last few final shapes with stiff white collar.

The final model wears a long black skirt with a laced laces, which is almost straight and long, and looks very Lagerfeld like white.

But there are also elements which are hard to ignore and represent some kind of farewell.

The most complete series of single items, including those printed tight pants and leather conjoined clothes, are attractive with some antique clothing.

But in more places, Viard uses a clear contemporary style profile and fabric (for example, cut from the seam to the high flying jacket jacket, leather shorts, and layered PRINTED DRESS), with a huge Flap Bag, Mod juvenile lacquer boots and other funny accessories, all "Chanel".

Inflated skirt skirts that have been popular in high streets may be the most popular declaration of this season's conference, ranging from leather to simple cotton.

Next, the July senior custom series press conference is the real debut of Viard, which may be more desirable.

But what is the future that Chanel should have?

According to Bernstein Solca, director of the luxury research department at Bernstein, today's luxury market is mainly remolded by two forces, one is the subversion of digital technology, the other is the rapid maturity of Chinese consumers driving the total sales volume of the industry. Two, according to Luca,

Then there is the Instagram waterfall like refresh rate, and the number of consumers in the wardrobe is already booming, and the number of consumers of classic luxury products is rapidly expanding. So fast and innovative, the fashion companies are also carrying unprecedented pressure of innovation.

Today, Chanel is still the most coveted luxury brand in the world, and no one can afford to remain static in a rapidly changing market.

Despite the increasing sales of brands, Chanel's last few years in the Lagerfeld term have begun to turn grey.

Despite the obvious advantages of the brand, Chanel does need to update the fashion line, marketing practices or shops.

But if Chanel needs to reform and innovate, the degree of subversion is comparable to that of Alessandro Michele under Gucci.

Having said that, Viard must eventually push the brand forward, or pfer the power of steering to others.

For her, the gap left behind by Lagerfeld after leaving the brand is too big.

The discussion of Phoebe Philo around the industry is continuing. After all, many people regard her as the Coco Chanel of this generation.