Analysis Of Three Important Factors In Garment Plate Making

When clothing is designed, to make the finished product comfortable and comfortable, it takes a lot of effort to draw the garment pattern.

There are many factors that influence garment plate making. Besides the size requirements of garment garments, clothing materials, clothing styles and clothing technology requirements determine the final result of garment plate making.

The clothing style is determined by various factors, such as the outline of the finished product, the structure of the inner garment, the shape and the location of the accessories.

Clothing styles mainly come from physical samples, physical patterns, photographs, magazine pictures, design drawings and so on.

As for the physical samples, we can observe and measure them carefully, and we can produce the finished garments that are identical with the physical samples.

For physical objects, we can produce the finished garments according to the tailoring and process requirements.

But for photographs, magazine pictures, design sketches and so on, it is more difficult, especially for complex styles of clothing, because photographs and so on usually only have a positive view (or with the back view), and can not observe the clothing in all directions, and can not measure the specifications in detail.

Therefore, the following focuses on how to understand design intent and understand design intent, some of which are also applicable to observation of physical samples.

The correct understanding of the design intention is generally considered from five aspects: the variety name, the style structure, the outline, the shape and use of the line, the combination of the various parts of the garment, and the specific size and proportion.

(1) first, we must understand the basic categories of the design clothing, the gender and age of the objects, and the important contents of the seasons, regions, uses and ways of dressing.

From the perspective of sex and age of the wearing objects, there are obvious differences between men's and women's clothing, men's and women's clothing, clothing for middle and old age, children's clothing and so on.

Judging from the seasons and regions, people's clothing is divided into spring and autumn clothing, summer wear and winter clothing due to climate change throughout the year.

Take winter as an example: in the north in order to resist the need of cold, the material of the coat should be thick, and the clothes should be put outside the cotton padded clothes, so the amount of relaxation should be large. In the south, when the air temperature is higher, the coat should not be too thick. When wearing it, it is usually used outside the suit to resist wind and sand, so the amount of relaxation is relatively small.

(2) style, structure, style and structure, also known as clothing pattern, refer to the contents of clothing components or parts combination form.

Sleeves or shoulder sleeves, sleeves and body combinations with flat or double seam structures, with split or double seam, and single breasted, double breasted, double breasted, half size, half open, open, straight, open, plush, open, open, open, open, open, open, open, open, open, open, open, open, open, open, open, open, open. For example, whether the front and back pieces are waist or waist width, whether they are to receive or divide, whether they are collar or door collar in collar, whether they are lapel or no collar; they are round in sleeves.

The characteristics of the parts that can be observed directly in the garment shape are all the characteristics of the style.

(3) shape, contour and shape.

Different shape profiles have different modeling characteristics.

The common ones are H, A, V, T and O.

Type H has the characteristics of peace, solemnity, fluency, and no close fit.

Type X is graceful, graceful, and embodies the natural beauty of the female body.

Type A has a stable sense of stability, full of youthful vigor, tight and loose.

Type V has exaggerated shoulders, showing masculine charm.

The T type has a simple, generous and natural crepe like loose body.

Type O has exaggerated shoulders, contracted pendulum and exaggerated and gentle displays.

From the above characteristics, we know that the outline of the garment is not equal to the shape of the human body. Among them, the clothing that directly suits the human body's lines and charm is a tight fitting body shape, and the fashion of the times is created by exaggerating and modifying the human body.

(4) the shape and use of lines are made up of different straight lines and curves. These lines may be contour lines, they may be various provinces, seams, pleat, decorative lines, or the split lines of clothes. We should distinguish between functional dividing lines or decorative segmentation lines for the dividing line of clothing bodies, because functional segmentation lines often contain some provincial roads in the segmentation line, while decorative segmentation lines often segment the clothing pieces and then sew them.

(5) the combination relationship of each part of clothing and its specific size and proportion are often composed of different pieces of clothing, and there is a certain proportion relationship between them.

The waist width, hip height, height and so on are benchmarks. Shoulder width is usually based on the actual shoulder width as the standard. The size of the bag is large and the chest girth is the most important benchmark. For example, the bag pocket of the bag under the waist line is large. The men's clothing is generally B / 10 + 5cm, and the dress is B / 10 + 4cm. For the bag under the waist line, the men's pocket is usually B / 10 + 6cm, the women's clothing is generally B / 10 + 5cm, the bag length is 1.2 times larger than the bag mouth, the height of the bag is generally 1 / 3 of the bag length, and the location of the bag is generally located below the waist section 7 - 8cm left and right. For clothing length, it is often

Two, clothing materials and clothing structure drawing clothing is composed of different materials through a combination of process means. Different fabrics have different properties due to the different raw materials, yarn, fabric organization, processing methods and so on, which affect the clothing structure drawing, mainly in three aspects: material texture, shrinkage, warp and weft thread.

Different materials have different properties. For example, silk fabrics are light and soft, and wool fabrics are thick and strong. Therefore, when the silk fabrics are cut, they should be shortened and relaxed in order to suit the natural elongation and contraction of the slanting silk. For thinner fabrics, the width of the stitch should be widened so as to prevent the need for yarn removal. For fabrics with inverted wool and floral fabrics, they should be marked on the pattern when drawing the garment structure, so as to avoid any mistakes.

Shrinkage of materials also affects the drawing of clothing structure. Shrinkage of materials includes water shrinkage, ironing shrinkage and blanching shrinkage. Therefore, clothing structure drawing should be processed correspondingly. For trousers, as long as the washing shrinkage and ironing shrinkage are added to the sample, the ironing shrinkage and blanching shrinkage can be added to the front garment pattern.

The warp and weft threads of the material are elastic, flexible and easy to extend.

Generally, trousers, clothing length, sleeve length, waist waistline, roll bar and horn skirt are generally inclined.

Three. In the process of garment structure drawing, garment technology and clothing structure drawing are different because of the different garment technology.

Commonly used seams have split joints, incoming and outgoing seams, inner and outer joints, etc. the seams of the split structure are 1cm, and the seam of the seam is 1.4cm. If the width of the seam is 0.6cm, the seam should be 0.7 0.8cm seam, and the seam should be 1.5cm seam.

The different processing of hem also affects the drawing of clothing structure. Usually there are doors, inner buttons, skirts, edges, cuffs, feet, collar, sleeves and so on.

For doors and inner buttons, there are two forms: adding noodles and connecting noodles. When the door and the inner lip are straight, it is usually used to pick up the noodles, and the doors and the inner buttons are not straight, such as suits.

For armholes and collar necklines, there are three forms of welt, flanging and rolling. For the armhole with a welt, only 1cm stitch is required at the armhole. For flanged sleeves, flanging width is only required at the armhole. For the sleeves with rolls, no seam is required at the armhole.

For shoulders that need shoulder padded clothing, it is necessary to reduce the inclination of shoulders. For clothing that needs to be added to clothing, it is slightly larger than the face pattern in making the pattern, so as not to prevent the lining from affecting the appearance of the garment.

From the above analysis, we can see that in the drawing of the garment structure drawing, it is not only to draw the garment structure, but to integrate the clothing styles, clothing materials and clothing technology, only in this way, the final finished clothing can not only conform to the designer's map, but also keep the feasibility of the garment making.