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    Plate Making Method For Half Plane Semi Stereotactic Method

    2010/4/20 14:22:00 75

    Half Plane Half Stand Shear Method

    When I make the board, I usually choose the board making method according to the actual situation.

    Different styles have different characteristics. There are advantages and disadvantages of various methods of plate making. It can not be very common to say that all styles are only made by one board method, or which kind of plate making method is good.

    Never play a good model.

    The purpose of making the board is to achieve the design effect in a roundabout way, make the garment more perfect, and do not focus on what kind of method or process to adopt. I think it is enough to achieve satisfactory design intention in a limited time.


       

    The plane cutting method, whether it is the proportion or the prototype method, has the advantage that it can quickly get the sample plate. The whole process of the plate making is convenient and time saving, but it must have a lot of practical experience. After many revisions and adjustment of the template, it can gradually become perfect, reaching the design effect.

    The disadvantage of flat cutting is:


    (1) the influence of fabric on the design effect can not be correctly perceived, such as fabric texture change, droop degree, gloss change, and elasticity.


    2. It is difficult to master certain parts of human body.

    For different styles, we should use different chest volume, balance of front and rear body, shoulder slope and so on.


    (3) for some special design models, the styles can not be treated very intuitively or accurately, such as: pleats or very elegant, heave, casual, natural styles, etc.

    These problems seem to be intractable when cutting planes, and the advantage of stereoscopic Jian Zezheng is.

    For those very traditional business suits, many learning classes are the preferred subjects of study. Many companies have developed and developed them. Therefore, for a little experienced board division, we can say that there is a great deal of confidence in them. In order to save time, we use flat panel, even if there is a slight discomfort, a slight modification can be made.

    For those with strong fashion, more folding and more elegant style and fabric characteristics, when the flat board can not be done at one time to be modified many times or repeatedly, it is best to choose a three-dimensional cutting method.

    There are many unstable factors in the process of making boards.

    It is the best way to deal with these factors, such as the shearing and denaturation of fabrics, the size and the elegance of the living fold and pleat, the trimming and edge operation, the edge observation and the edge cutting.


      

    When you get the design effect chart, you must first carefully examine the map, from the positioning of the age of the style, the size and specification, to the overall structure, and the method of making the work, etc., in your own mind, there is a rigorous and comprehensive plan to ensure the success rate of the garment and then start the operation again.

    Many board architects are eager to get ahead and lack the cool habit of considering the whole thing. When the clothes come out of a lot of trouble, they will know that it is too late.

    After considering the maturity, apply the prototype on the grey cloth to find out the basic structural line of the pattern, draw its outline and cut it out and stitch it out with the hand needle, then make further adjustment, modification and molding on the human body or the modified person's stage, until satisfactory, and then use the fabric root to make the sample garment according to the cutting piece of the blank, then confirm the blank piece into the final suitable sample.

    In this process, we should pay attention to several problems.


    1. When drawing the basic structure, the straight yarn of the grey fabric must be consistent with the central axis of the front middle and rear part. The weft yarn must be consistent with the chest line, waist line and arm height line, so that the data of each part can be controlled, and the sample size, the size of the human body and the size of the human body are in the same position, and also convenient for future extension work.


    Second, before the use of grey cloth, shrinkage must be done. In the process of making blank, the number of ironing should be reduced as much as possible. Because the plasticity of the fabric is strong and the number of ironing will be more, it will cause deformation. If a clear allocation is made, the record must be kept well so as to pay attention to the later development.


    (3) in the drawing, there must be the most basic structure of the intermediate frame, the front and rear centerline, the position line of the three sides, the longitudinal cutting line of the front and rear body through the chest point and the posterior scapular point, the side dividing line of the front and rear body, the shoulder slash, and so on.

    There are many boards that call these lines "the skeleton of clothing", so it is essential to find deviations in the process of making boards, find out where the defects are, and check and adjust them in time and effectively.

    As the saying goes, "there are bones but no meat."

    The quality of garment skeleton processing directly affects the whole process of garment making and making.


    4. There should be about 2cm of the spare seam during the blank cutting, leaving enough allowance for later adjustment.

    Some people encountered no allowance when adjusting the blank. The first thing to think about is the splicing, which is not clear about the shear and denaturation of the fabric. The fabric with no interface is different from the splicing after disconnecting, so the blank can not be spliced, otherwise it will lose its authenticity when it is used in the later stage.


    5. When sewing the blank, we must use the hand stitch to stitch. We can not save time, convenience and speed. Instead of sewing machine, the grey cloth we use now has very strong plasticity. The conveying cloth of the sewing machine can easily cause the deformation and eat of the fabric in the process of delivering cloth.


    Sixth, when adjusting the sample, the selected body must pay attention to whether the shape is correct and whether the person's desk has been corrected.

    Otherwise, the model can not adapt to the normal mass shape after dry Xin Wan Tong debugging.


    Finally, according to the authenticity of the template, the details of the blank should be reacted on the template in detail, such as yarn direction, seams, dart status, location and data, and eating situation.

     

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