Steps And Application Of Stereoscopic Cutting

First, stereoscopic cutting of the prototype.

　　
(1) archetype is the most basic and simplest pattern. It is the foundation of all styles. The stereoscopic cutting prototype is the basis of the stereo cutting of the garment. The procedures are as follows:

1 the lines of the former center line, the chest circumference line and the datum line are covered with the same line of the same name on the human platform. The front center and the B.P point are fixed on the human platform at the front and point points.

2 push the excess amount below the bust line below the B.P point to form waist waist and fix the waist area with a pin, while determining the position of the side seam and fixing it.

3 push the allowance above the chest line to the shoulder, and cut the neckline to eliminate the pulling force at the neckline.

4 the operation of the rear piece is the same as that of the front film.

　　
(two) there are two ways to design the prototype wide volume:

1 pass method: before the operation, release a certain amount of loosening at the chest breadth and temporarily fix it with a pin.

2 placement method: after the three-dimensional cutting is completed, add relaxation to the side seam directly.

3 the amendment of the clothes: because the technical difficulty of the three-dimensional cutting is larger, the cutting part is difficult to guarantee the accuracy. Therefore, the right and left clothes are often made for the left-right clothes and the left clothes are cut according to the right clothes, so the amendment of the clothes is essential.

(1) remove the cloth from the table and put it on the platform and press it with an iron.

(2) re draw the neckline, armhole arc, side seam and shoulder seam with the drawing ruler.

(3) check whether the relevant parts are reasonable and trim the left garment according to the right garment.

(4) connecting the left and right clothes with hand needles and fixing them on the stage. The relevant parts, such as pockets and buttons, are cut according to the actual sample and placed in the corresponding parts to check whether the overall shape of the garment is perfect.

　　
Two. Application of stereoscopic cutting in Province

In the stereoscopic cutting of the prototype, we can see that the shape of the garment presents the basic state of two: loose and well formed. The loose expression is that the fabric and the human body are in an isolated state, forming a certain space, while the fit is the match between the fabric and the human body, showing a body fitted state. The key to the formation of this body position is the use of the province.

The concept and significance of 1 provinces

Province is a form of processing for the surplus part in clothing production. The origin of the province comes from the two-dimensional cloth placed on the three-dimensional human body. Because of the uneven and uneven size of the human body, the degree of looseness and the low degree of fitness, it determines the loose state of the fabric in many parts of the human body, and the disposal of these loose quantities in an intensive form forms the concept of province.

Transfer and application of 2 provinces

The transfer of the province is the expansion of the technical application of the provincial road, which makes the design of the body fitted to diversify. The principle of the transfer of the dart is actually following the principle of the bump ray, that is, the shifting of the dart with the bump as the center. For example, the design of the chest height can lead to numerous provincial roads. Besides the most basic thoracolumbar provinces, shoulder provinces, armholes, neckline provinces, the former center provinces and the armpit provinces are all forms of provincial treatment, which are around the point where the high points are located at the point of the thorax.

3 several provincial stereotactic operations

(1) waist Province, which is the most basic form of the provincial form, transfers all the surplus to the bottom of the chest.

(2) shoulder province + former center Province -- this is to divide all the surplus into two parts and transfer them to the design position respectively, which is the same concept as the decomposition and transfer of the province in the plane structure.

(3) herringbone Province - the provincial form is herringbone, hence its naming. Herringbone province is different from the symmetrical features of the above provinces. It is asymmetrical, and it also shows the characteristics of the province. Such provinces also include Y shape and T shape.

4 stereoscopic cutting in province and segmentation

Segmentation is another cutting technique after the province. When the two provinces point to the chest height, we can connect these two provinces to form a dividing line. This is the structural form of the joint structure that is mentioned in the plane structure. The use of segmentation techniques adds a means of expression to the design of the fitting garment, and at the same time enriches the clothing design language.

(1) vertical segmentation -- combining shoulder provinces and thoracolumbar provinces to form a vertical line, such as the classic Princess line. In addition, the neckline and waist provinces, armhole provinces and waist provinces are vertically separated.

(2) horizontal segmentation is mainly a horizontal or approximate segmentation line, such as connecting the armhole and the front center to form a transverse segmentation, transferring the scapula to the armhole, and connecting the two provinces to form a horizontal segmentation of the rear piece.

(3) oblique segmentation, which is a kind of split between horizontal and vertical, and is an asymmetrical segmentation. For example, the shoulder joint of the right garment is connected with the side seam of the left garment to form an oblique dividing line across the garment.

(4) straight line segmentation and curve segmentation. In the design of garment knot segmentation, the linear form is mainly divided into two basic forms: straight line segmentation and curve segmentation, and the rest are variants based on this. Straight line segmentation is the basic form of segmentation, while curve segmentation is rich in segmentation design, but it should be noted that the greater the curvature, the greater the difficulty of the process.

(5) operation requirements -- no matter which way, they operate in the same way. First, the location of the segmentation is determined on the human platform and identified by the expression line, and then completed according to the operation method and steps of the stereotactic prototype.

Three. The art of plucking in three-dimensional cutting.

Plucking is a design language used in fashion design. It makes clothes appear more connotative and lively. Especially in the design of girls' clothing, plucking is a main form of expression. Pleats are divided into two basic forms: regular fold and free fold.

The 1 regular fold is mainly manifested as a regularity between pleats and pleats, such as the size, spacing and length of the pleats are the same or similar. Regular pleats represent a mature and dignified, lively and steady style.

2 free folds -- contrary to regular folds, the free fold shows a randomness, showing a casual feeling in the size and spacing of the pleats, reflecting the lively, generous, relaxed and relaxed style of clothing.

3 operation requirements. Because of the difference between stereotactic cutting and plane cutting, the amount of material used can be accurately calculated. Therefore, first, adequate allowance should be left on the cutting of cloth, then the size of the fold should be set according to the need, and the mark should be marked with a pen.