Basic Knowledge Of Garment Accessories And Selection Techniques Of Accessories
Clothing accessories can be roughly divided into seven categories: 1, lining materials; 2, lining materials; 3, filler; 4, thread belt materials; 5, fastening materials; 6, decorative materials; 7, others.
First, clothing materials
Lining materials are used for clothing clips. They are mainly cotton fabric, regenerated fiber fabric, synthetic fiber fabric, polyester cotton blended fabric, polyester taffeta, acetate fiber and viscose fiber blended fabric, silk fabric and rayon fabric.
The main test indexes of the lining materials are shrinkage and color fastness. For the garment products containing stuffing materials, fine or coated fabrics should be used to prevent fleece.
At present, the use of chemical fiber as the main material is more.
Attention should be paid to choosing clothing materials.
The performance of the 1. lining should be in line with the fabric's performance.
Performance here refers to shrinkage, heat resistance, washing resistance, strength and thickness, weight and so on. Different materials have different performance characteristics.
The color of the 2. lining should be in harmony with the fabric. In general, the color of the lining should not be deeper than the fabric.
The 3. lining should be smooth, durable, prevent pilling and have good color fastness.
Two, clothing lining
Lining includes two kinds of interlining and liner.
Interlining is mainly used for clothing collar, cuff, bag mouth, skirt waist, clothing side and suit, chest and so on. It usually contains hot melt adhesive coating, commonly called adhesive lining.
According to the difference of base cloth, the adhesive lining is divided into spun lining and non-woven lining.
Woven fabrics are woven or knitted fabrics, and non-woven interlining is made of chemical fibers.
The quality of the adhesive lining is directly related to the quality of the garments.
Therefore, when selecting the adhesive lining, it not only requires the appearance, but also checks whether the interlining parameter performance is consistent with the requirements of the garment quality.
For example, the heat shrinkable ratio of interlining should be as high as that of fabric heat shrinkable rate; good seaming and tailoring should be made; it should be firmly bonded with fabric at lower temperature; avoid pressing the fabric after high temperature pressing, adhering firmly and continuously, resisting ageing and washing.
The pads include shoulder pads, chest pads and bottoms for bottoms. The material is thick and soft, and generally does not glue.
Attention should be paid when choosing clothing liners.
The 1. lining should match the performance of the fabric.
Including lining color, unit weight, thickness, drape and so on.
For example, flannel and other heavy fabrics should be lined with thick lining, while thin fabrics such as silk fabrics should be made of light silk lining, knitted fabrics with elastic knitted (warp knitted) interlining, light colored fabrics should not be deep in colour, and polyester fabrics should not be lined with cotton.
2. lining should match the functions of different parts of clothing.
The stiff lining is used for the collar and waist. The liner of the coat is thicker. The smooth felt lining is usually used for the waist of the skirt and the cuffs of the garment. The stiff and elastic lining should be used in the neat and neat shape.
The 3. lining should match the service life of the garment.
The washable clothing should choose the washable lining, and consider the washing of the lining and the stability of the ironing size; the lining material, such as the cushion, should consider the shape preserving ability, and ensure that it can not be deformed within a certain time of use.
4. the lining should be matched with the equipment produced in the garment production.
Professional and supporting processing equipment can give full play to the characteristics of liner material aided modeling.
Therefore, when choosing materials, combined with the working parameters of adhesion and processing equipment, targeted selection can achieve twice the result with half the effort.
Three, clothing filler
Clothing stuffing is a material that acts as a thermal insulation between fabric and lining. According to the shape of filling, it can be divided into two types: floc and wood.
1. floc: there is no fixed shape and loose filling material. When you make garments, you must add the lining (some of which should be lined with gallbladder) and pass the machine or hand quilting.
The main varieties are cotton, silk floss, camel hair and feather, which are used for warmth and heat insulation.
2. materials: made of synthetic fiber or other synthetic materials, made of warm packing with flat shape, including polyvinyl chloride, polyester, acrylic fiber, hollow cotton and smooth plastic.
Its advantages are uniform thickness, easy processing, simple modeling, anti mold, no moth eaten, easy to wash.
This article gives a brief introduction to the warm floc.
Hot-melt floc: it is a kind of floc made by hot melt bonding process.
It does not allow holes, and the elasticity of compression must reach 85%.
2. Spray glue cotton batten: polyester staple fiber as the main raw material, after carding and netting, and heat treatment after spraying the liquid adhesive on the mesh.
3. Metal coating composite floc: fiber floc, metal coating as the main raw material, made of composite processing, commonly known as space cotton, aerospace cotton, metal cotton and so on.
(4) wool composite thermal insulation material: multi-layered composite material with fiber flocculation as the main body and warm as the main purpose.
Far infrared cotton compound wadding: This is a newly developed multifunctional high-tech product, which has antibacterial and deodorizing effects and certain health functions.
Four. Tape type materials
1. wire material
Mainly refers to sewing thread and other linear materials and all kinds of wire rope material.
Sewing thread plays a role in sewing garments and connecting parts. It can also play a certain role in decoration and beautification. Whether it is open or dark line, it is an integral part of the overall style of clothing.
The most commonly used sewing thread is 60s/3 and 40s/2 polyester thread. The most commonly used embroidery thread is rayon and silk thread.
Process decoration line is also an important part of linear materials.
The process decoration line can be roughly divided into three categories: embroidery line, knitting line and mosaic line.
It is often used in clothing, bedding, furniture, fabrics, indoor articles, restaurant supplies, etc.
In addition, there is a process decorative line, which is made of some special needs and is called special line.
It has unique properties, relatively small scope of use, relatively high production costs, and is usually named after use.
2. band materials
It is mainly made up of decorative belt, practical belt, industrial belt and protective belt.
Decorative belts can also be divided into elastic belts, rib belts, hat wall belts, rayon ribbons, ribbons, rolled ribbons and door belts. Practical belts are made up of nylon buckles, belts, backpacks and kettle bands. The industrial belt consists of a fire belt, a conveyor belt and an automobile sealing belt.
Attention should be paid to the selection of clothing lines.
1. color and fabric should be the same. Apart from the decorative line, we should try to choose the similar color, and should not be shallow.
2. the stitching shrinkage should be consistent with the fabric, so that the stitch will not wrinkle the fabric if it is washed. The elastic line should be used for high elastic and knitted fabrics.
3. sewing thread thickness should be suitable for fabric thickness and style.
4. the stitching material should be close to the fabric material characteristics. The fastness, elasticity and heat resistance of the thread should be suitable for the fabric, especially the garment dyed products. The sewing thread must be the same as the fabric fiber (special requirements exceptions).
Five, closely related materials
Closely related materials are mainly connected, assembled and decorated in clothing. They include buttons, zippers, hooks, rings and nylon clasps.
The following principles should be followed when selecting materials.
1. the types of clothing should be considered. For example, infant and children's clothing should be simple and secure, and nylon zippers or clasps are generally used. Men's clothing should be thick and generous, and women's clothing should be ornamental.
2., clothing design and style should be considered. Materials should be focused on popularity so as to achieve the unity of decoration and function.
3. consideration should be given to the uses and functions of garments, such as raincoat and swimwear, which should be waterproof and durable and suitable for plastic products.
The underwear of the underwear should be small and thin, light and strong, and the zipper on the back of the trousers and skirt must be self locked.
4., clothing maintenance should be considered. As usual, clothes should be used less or without metal materials.
5. consider clothing materials, such as heavy and fuzzed fabrics, using large size fastening materials. Loose fabrics should not be used with hooks, loops and rings.
6. should consider the location of placement and the form of clothing opening, such as clothing fastener without door, not using buttons.
Six. Decorative materials
Lace is a wide variety of lace. It is also an integral part of decorative materials. It is an important decorative material for women's wear and children's clothing, including woven lace and hand-made lace.
Woven lace is divided into three categories: woven lace, embroidery lace and knitting lace; hand lace includes cloth lace, yarn lace and lacing.
Dress lace emphasizes aesthetics, durability and washability. When choosing and applying lace, we need to weigh the three characteristics of lace decoration, wearability and durability, and choose according to different needs.
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