Designer Brand &Nbsp; Out Of Commercial Insensitive Zone

From France's fashion master Christian Lacroix for the first time absent from the Paris high fashion week to Yamamoto Teruji's bankruptcy, designer brand crisis swept the globe.

Despite the unprecedented pressure from overseas designers, the financial turmoil has made China one of the most promising markets in the world.

On the CHIC2010, designers in Europe, America, Korea and Japan have not yet been calm enough to rush to the beach.

In the face of the new wave of designer brand that is brewing, the Chinese designer brand, which has not yet formed intensive strength, is enjoying the eyeball and capital brought by this trend, and is also facing a competition and fight.

Capital, operation and management, this designer's insensitive area will soon become the main battlefield of deciding the outcome.

When designer brand becomes the need of the market, when the sky and the sky meet rational management, how to integrate the four forces of capital, talent, channel and mode when facing the tempting venture?

Survival, from worry to excellence

Consumers are becoming mature, and they are recognizing the value of designer's creative labor in their own way.

Looking at the domestic market, the most convincing or most representative designer brand is the exception, CABBEEN and gefon.

But apart from them, the overall survival of designer brands in China is not optimistic.

Quite a number of designer brands are in the throes of struggling. The situation of "applause" is frequent, and the attitude of the mall to designer brand is swaying with the prosperity of the market.

Fortunately, in China's large and medium-sized cities, consumers have become increasingly mature, and all sectors of society and all kinds of occupations are recognizing the value of designer's creative labor in their own way.

Two years ago, designer Yang Guanhua, who returned from France to Beijing, opened the first women's wear custom store in Sanlitun.

After a steady rise in store sales, Yang Guanhua's business performance began to surge from 2008, and it was "a bit busy."

More than 300 VIP members are the gold collar workers she originally positioned, and even some clients urged her to open branches in Shanghai and Hangzhou.

Designers like Yang Guanhua are not in the minority.

From the point of view of market supply and demand, a large number of industrialized clothing brands have springing up, and the same trend elements have made people tired, leading to fashion is becoming increasingly weak, and designer brand is shining, unique and striking.

Designer brand has good innate genes.

Compared with other designers of traditional clothing brands, the main advantage of designer brand lies in that the designer's personality and style design is more distinct, and has more room to play, and has a more mature and long-term plan.

In the traditional brand mode, when designers design for other brands, there will be a sense of constraint. Design ideas are often limited by many factors such as business models and brand positioning culture, which makes it difficult for designers to express their personal ideas.

Designer brand still has a natural brand promotion advantage: the designer himself is brand endorsement.

When the designer gets some honor, he can enhance the popularity of his brand accordingly and increase the confidence of dealers and retailers.

This is the biggest advantage of designer brand in gaining brand awareness.

In addition, from the perspective of commercial channels, China's department stores under the joint operation system face the embarrassment of homogenization, and introduce a smaller but more distinctive designer brand.

Game of capital, competition and cooperation

The garment industry has 4 revolving funds in one year to facilitate the quick recovery of investment, attracting investment institutions and capital holders.

However, capital is always uneasy, and competition and cooperation happen all the time.

The young designer Fang Jing has a design center called FASHION FLORAART DESIGN. With his deep foundation and unique style, he is looked at by a Italy brand, and has gained a lot of venture capital. She helped the brand develop OCCHI VIVI, which is suitable for the Chinese market.

In recent years, foreign brands have invested in building their own brands and building their own brands, which has become an important source of designer brand equity.

These foreign brands are eager and strong in the Chinese market. They often focus on those excellent designers who hold their own design brand 5~10, or invest in the designer's own brand, or cooperate to create a new brand.

Liu Wenxian, chairman of FDS capital of China, said: "China's clothing industry has just come to the manufacturing age and is stepping into the commercial era. This is clearly a good opportunity to combine capital and fashion."

Some famous clothing brands in China are taking a very similar route. The positioning and style of the main brand have been deeply rooted in the hearts of the people. The space for innovation is narrow, and the return on investment is limited. However, if the start-up capital creates a sub brand, it is likely to gain substantial brand benefit and economic benefits.

Therefore, some designers who meet the requirements will enter their legal eyes.

Obviously, this is just a form of capital entering the clothing field.

Since the outbreak of the economic crisis, Carlyle and other international professional investment institutions have handed olive branches to domestic garment enterprises, and hundreds of billions of dollars have been injected into the industry to make clear that the specialized investment institutions began to test the traditional industries.

According to authoritative data analysis, in the same period, the average rate of return of traditional industries is about 40 times, while high-tech enterprises only have 5~20 times.

Wu Xuewei, a well-known designer, said that the cycle of the garment industry is the 4 quarter, and it will soon be able to recover the capital, which is very attractive to investment institutions and capital holders.

Capital comes, but few designers are favored by capital.

Fang said in his personal experience that there are two kinds of designers that can be recognized by capital. One is a designer who has deep design skills, lasting design ability, and has experience or ability to be a brand director. They know how to run a brand, mature and tolerant, and have a strong sense of teamwork.

The other is the cutting-edge designer who has an extremely individualized design style. However, such designer brand is not ideal in terms of continuity of design power and market fit, and the difficulty index of operation is relatively high.

Walking on the balance beam of commercial operation.

The difference of business mode makes Chinese designer brand have no operation mode to refer to. They still need more time and energy to learn and accumulate knowledge about all aspects of design and commerce.

Fang Ying is a famous Chinese fashion designer who plays the main role in the overseas market. He is also a lucky designer to go abroad.

In 1998, she was praised by the fashion world as "a dark horse born out of the world" because of the special session of "dream Tibet". In 2003, she registered designer brand Claire Fang in Shanghai. In 2004, Claire Fang completed its debut in Paris's advanced clothing exhibition.

Her way of running her own brand is to set up studios in Beijing and Shanghai, and take her designer brand to attend the Paris advanced clothing exhibition every year. Every season's works will be displayed and sold in fashion shops including designer brands in France, Switzerland and other countries.

Gradually, Claire Fang brand clothing has a large customer base in Europe.

At the same time, her studio in Shanghai also serves some European brand clothes, some of which are designed by her Shanghai studio and produced in China.

However, the influence and market share of Fang Ying's designer brand remain in a certain range.

There are many reasons for this, but Fang Ying said frankly that she was a very emotional person. It was painful for her to see sales reports and figures every day. She was more inclined to be a simple, casual, relaxed professional designer.

Fang Ying's attitude can represent many fashion designers.

The achievement of a successful designer brand, capital, talent, channel, model four forces are indispensable.

China's clothing operation mode is more lag and immature than that of Europe and America. The fundamental difference between the buyer system and the joint venture system makes the follow-up strategy inappropriate.

Many designers have said that at present, Chinese fashion designer brands can not be modeled without reference. Designers often find it difficult to find a balance between designers and operators.

The reason why designers are investing in investment institutions is not only to find money support for the development of brand designers, but also to expect modern management concepts and operation modes of large investment institutions.

"The strength of the investment organization is an important aspect of the investigation. More importantly, the designer should see whether the other side has the determination, patience, high-quality operation team to launch a designer brand, an international design process, a systematic promotion strategy and a superb brand operation method."

Wu Xuewei said.

China's apparel design industry has accumulated a lot of weaknesses in management, and lacks modern enterprise management in all aspects of logistics management, inventory management, cost control, new product management, data management and so on. These aspects are already essential factors for accomplishments of a high quality designer brand.

Taking cost control as an example, in addition to strictly controlling production processes and logistics links to reduce costs, innovation is essential to experimentation in style and materials. This part of the cost may be huge, and how to limit it to controllable range is not trivial.

Corporatization can undoubtedly help designers avoid the risks of personal decision-making.

As a member of the company's process, designers are more likely to understand that to make their brands fly high, they need to work hard and work hard, and the market and consumers will never be easy to worship.

There are two sides to everything. Compared with the European and American countries, although the system construction of our designer brand is not yet mature, the growth environment is relatively loose.

Foreign commercial channels are often monopolized, and brand entry is a very difficult thing.

The business sense of smell in foreign fashion industry is also very sensitive. The speed of popular change is very fast.

From this perspective, the competition pressure of Chinese designer brand is not too big at present. There is enough time and energy to learn and accumulate knowledge about design and business.