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    Preparation For The Foundation Design Of Full Shoes -- Commonly Used Design Points

    2010/6/2 15:47:00 239

    Location Point Edge Point Marker


       

    The design point is the control point of the location of the design parts.

    Some design points come from the rule of foot type. Some design points come from the summary of experience. There are only a dozen design points commonly used in the structure design. For the convenience of future use, it needs to be found on the last body once and for all. It is also marked on the half panel, eliminating the need to repeat the operation after many times.



    Before looking for a point, we should draw the four middle line of the last body.

    In the design of foundation structure, the special requirements of other last shapes are described in the following chapters.


    The commonly used design points include three types: location, edge and mark.


       
       

    (1) site points


    The location point is a set of design points selected on the middle line of the last bottom line, determined by the foot type rule, and can be calculated through the length coefficient of the foot.

    The formula is as follows:


    The length of feature location is one foot length * part coefficient.


    The measurement starts from the rear end point B of the last bottom and is measured along the bottom line of the last bottom with the tape ruler.


    The common site points include the point of the first metatarsophalangeal joint, the point of the fifth metatarsophalangeal joint, the location of the external lumbar fossa, and the center of the lateral malleolus.


    For specific data, see table 1-1-1.



    Common point data


    Table 1-1-1

     Preparation for the foundation design of full shoes -- commonly used design points


      

    Note: the data in the table is followed by an equal value of equal value, indicating the amount to be corrected when each half shoe number is changed.

    If an integer is changed, 2 equal values should be corrected.

    The number will increase and the number will be reduced.


        
      

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    (two) edge points


    The edge point is a set of design points selected on the bottom line.

    The edge points can be obtained through the vertical lines of the bottom midline.


    There are 4 commonly used edge points, including the first metatarsophalangeal joint edge point (H1), the fifth metatarsophalangeal joint edge point (H), the outer lumbar edge point (F), and the lateral ankle bone center edge point (P), as shown in Fig. 1-1-1.


     
     Foundation design of full shoes -- commonly used design points


    The first edge of the first metatarsophalangeal joint H and the H of the fifth metatarsophalangeal joint are the two points that are often used in conjunction with the Hi points and H points. The oblique width line of the last bottom is H and H.

    The intersection point between the oblique width line and the last middle line is W, which is the convex point of the front palm, also known as the location.


    By using the rule of Hi As =RH, we can find the R point and connect RB to get the heel line.


       
       

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    (three) mark point


    A mark is a set of design points selected on the last surface.

    They are mainly concentrated in the back midline and rear arc middle line, including the physiological characteristics of the feet, and the experienced design points, as shown in figure 1-1-2.


    There are 9 commonly used signs, and the following are the ways to find it.


       

    1. mark points on heel arc


    There are 3 mark points on the heel arc, which are measured from the rear end point B of the last bottom and measured along the rear arc middle line with the tape ruler.


       

    (1) the D point (the mark point of the last heel of the last) corresponds to the heel Crown Point of the shoe last and the heel point of the foot. It is the measuring point of the whole length of the last and the last surface. It is also the reference point of the forking position of the package and the part after the design, as shown in figure 1-1-3.


     
     Basic structure design of full help shoes -- common design points


    As shown in the figure, the position of the rear package and the fork is taken from 1 to 2mm below the D point, and the last is better.


       

    Calculation rule: BD=8. 8% * foot length


    Calculation result: male last 250 BD= (22 + 0.4) mm


    Female last 230 BD= (20 + 0.4) mm


      

    (2) C point (heel mark along the bone) and heel point along the bone are the datum points for determining the rear arc height and the door position of the upper, and also the control point of the main heel height after the design.


       

    Calculation rule: BC=21. 66% * foot length


    Calculation result: male last 250 BC= (54 + 1.1) mm


    Female last 230 BC= (50 + 1.1) mm


        

    (3) the height of the middle seam is the key point of the shoe design. The position of the rear arc design is too low, which will cause the shoe not to follow the feet. The design position of the rear arc is too high, which will cause the heel to wear.

    Generally speaking, the full shoe is based on the point of the posterior calcaneus along the foot, increasing 4 ~ 5mm can meet the height requirements.

    For women's shallow shoes, sandals, tube boots and so on, there will be their own special requirements, unlike full shoes, see picture 1-1-4.



     
     Foundation design of full shoes -- commonly used design points


    As shown in the figure, the C point is the heel bone along the heel bone, which needs the main heel to protect the foot. The design of the main heel is highly controlled at C point.

    The 4 to 5mm position above the C point is the control point Q for designing the seam height of the full shoe.


       

    Calculation rule: CQ=4 ~ 5mm


    Calculation result: male last 250 BQ= 58~59 (+ 1.1) mm


    Female last 230 BQ= 54~55 (+ 1.1) mm


        
        
         

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    2. marks on the back midline.


    There are 4 mark points on the midline, and the methods of measurement are different.


    (1) V point (gate location mark) the location of the mouth door is the intersection point between the front end of the shoe and the back midline, as shown in figure 1-1-2.

    The position of the shoe door is variable. The change of the door position will directly affect the wearing of the shoes. If the door is too close, it may cause the feet to not get in. The location of the door is too close, which will cause the ability of the feet to drop.

    The location mark is only a reference point, which does not represent all the location of the door. It is based on the specific requirements of the style, and changes reasonably before and after the datum point.

    In general, the door position of the inner ear shoe is usually taken at V.


    The location of the mouth should be based on the physiological characteristics of the foot.

    The V point is the marking point of the forefoot convex point in the midline of the back.

    When measuring, we should use straight line measuring method, use compasses or calipers and other tools to measure straight line forward from C and take V points in the back line.

    Using the straight line measuring method to find the V point, it can not be influenced by the allowance and the height of the last.

    Caution is not allowed to be measured with tape rulers.


       

    Calculation rule: CV=68. 8% * foot length


    Calculation result: male last 250 CV= (172 + 3.44) mm


    Female last 230 CV= (158.24 + 3.44) mm


       

    (2) E point (crotch position mark) crotch position is the design point for controlling the total length of front face of shoes. See figure 1-1-2, men's shoes are different from women's shoes.

    When measuring, use the tape ruler to start measuring back from V point.

    Among them, the E point of men's shoes takes 27% of the length of the foot, which will not cause grinding feet before the upper bending point of the foot.

    The E point of women's shoes is 25% longer than that of men's shoes, which is considered from the appearance of women's shoes. The front face of women's shoes will be long, heavy and uncomfortable.

    But when designing boots, the height of the boot is much higher than the E point, so both men and women boots last 27% feet.


        

    Calculation rule: male last VE=27% * foot length


    Female last VE=25% * foot length


    Calculation result: male last 250 VE= (67.5 + 1.35) mm


    Female last 230 VE= (57.5 + 1.25) mm


       

    (3) VO shallow gate location mark) generally women's shallow shoes, sports shoes and so on, mouth door location is relatively close, known as shallow door shoes.

    The door of such shoes is usually in front of the flexor position of the metatarsophalangeal joint, so it should be controlled by using the location mark of the shallow door.


    The way to measure Vo is to determine the intersection point between the metatarsal line and the midline.

    The metatarsal line of the last is measured by the edge points of the first and fifth metatarsophalangeal, and the intersection point between the circumference line and the midline is Vo, as shown in figure 1-1-5.


     
     Foundation design of full shoes -- commonly used design points


    The function of Vo is similar to the V point, and it is also a basic control point. According to the specific requirements of shallow gate, it is adjusted before and after Vo.

    We must pay attention to the position of the door of the finished shoes must be stagger Vo, otherwise it will cause the grinding of the instep and hindering the bending movement of the foot.


    It should be clear that the distance between V point and Vo is not a fixed value, and it will decrease with the increase of the last heel.

    So do not look for Vo point by measuring the length of factory 0.


       

    (4) J point (last crown mark) the J of the crown of the last crown is in the protrusion position or bending position of the shoe last, which is usually used to connect the length of the back midline, and is often used to control the position of the cover of the cover shoe.


    For the last shape of the shoe cover, the bump of the last point is very obvious. It can be determined by the naked eye or the reflection of the last surface. For some vegetarian head type, the bump of the last point is not obvious. It is necessary to measure the length of AJ by empirical data.


    Generally, the empirical value of AJ length is: male last 250 AJ'= 24 to 26mm; female last 230 AJ =19 to 21mm.


    These empirical data are based on the mark of toe position.

    On the middle line of the last bottom, the allowance for the middle toe last is usually male 20mm and female 16. 5mm. If the mark on the toe of the toe is measured on the last back, the length will be larger than a few millimeters. This is a relationship between bowstring and bow back, as shown in figure 1-1-6.

      
       

    {page_break}


        

    3. marking points on the last surface


    There are 2 marks on the last surface, and there are different ways to find them.

       

    (1) 0 points (mouth width mark) the width of the mouth door refers to the width of the shoe at the entrance of the door.

    The width of the door is also changed. It is usually taken at 1 / 2 of the front control line, that is, the midpoint of the V line is fixed as the width mark 0 of the line, as shown in figure 1-1-2.


    The width mark of the door is not limited to the width of the door. The width of the different styles can be adjusted by the O point position. The adjustment operation will become simple because of the reference point.


    The reference point of the take off center is also set at 0 points. The corner vertex of the natural stilt VOV'is at O point.


       

    (2) the point of the lower ankle along the lateral ankle bone center is designed to control the waist height and prevent the ankle foot from grinding.

    If you connect the OQ line as the height control line, you will find that the P 'point is generally on the top of the OQ line. See 1-1-2, that is to say, using the OQ line to design the rear height does not cause the foot ankle bone, so finding the P point is for reference.

    The "P" point is determined by measuring the height of the PP'line.


     
     Foundation design of full shoes -- commonly used design points


    With the tape ruler perpendicular to the front end of the pads, measure the upper face tightly.


        

    Calculation rule: male and female last PP'=20. 14% x foot length


    Calculation result: male last 250 PP = = (50.35 + 1.O) mm


    Female last 230 PP = = (46.32 + 1) mm


    In practical applications, when designing arc shoes, men's shoes are usually taken at 48mm, and women's shoes are often taken at 44mm.

    The method of measurement is shown in figure 1-1-7.


    Because the height of the measured PP 'line is measured by a tape ruler. For some shoe last with excessive body thickness, the P' point may be lower than the OQ line, but the vertical height of the external malleolus will not be reduced due to the thickness of the last body, nor will it cause grinding feet.


    For convenience of inspection, the relevant design points are arranged as follows: table 1-1-2.



    Table 1-1-2

     Preparation for the foundation design of full shoes -- commonly used design points
      
     

    Source: world clothing shoes and hats net


     
     
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