Chinese Clothing Collection "Money" Scenery Attractive
Cheongsam is the first choice for clothing collectors.
Cheongsam has become a favorite of women.
From clothing to shelter, to hundreds of thousands of dollars, millions of dollars to customize advanced clothing, and then to spend hundreds of thousands of dollars to buy and can not "wear" clothing put up, and then spend money every year to maintain them, to promote, the cultural level of which is self-evident, and its value is increasingly recognized by people.
The high-speed and booming Chinese economy is also promoting and upgrading China's clothing culture.
In the twinkling of an eye, fathers have just known how to dress, and the "two generation" have begun to focus on collecting clothes.
Yesterday, the famous designer Deng Dazhi, known as the "Kowloon Emperor" by the fashion industry in Hongkong, said that clothing collection was getting hotter and hotter, but the level and storage volume of domestic collectors were not high.
Min Ching
cheongsam
It has collection value.
By John Cusake, Gong Li, Zhou Runfa, Ken Watanabe and other international stars starring in the pnational giant "spy sea wind and cloud" is being reflected in the country, Gong Li's silver poster's posters, alluring.
The silver cheongsam for Gong Li is Liang Langguang of Langguang fashion in Hongkong.
Liang Langguang has worked for 50 years, and has produced dozens of cheongsam for the movie "love years" and "2046".
At this time, the collection of folk cheongsam is also gradually warming up.
The cheongsam before the Republic of China is not the Qipao in the strict sense. The two words of the cheongsam are simply the "gowns worn by the banners". The cheongsam after the Republic of China no longer exceeds the height that the cheongsam of the Republic of China has reached.
Therefore, collectors love to collect cheongsam in the Republic of China.
The cheongsam in the Republic of China is still scattered among the people.
Nowadays, cheongsam is rarely seen in antique shops in China.
Chinese museums are often considered "unworthy of entry" because they are too new. Only a few new professional museums such as the Chinese silk museum are interested, but there are not many collections.
Beijing the Imperial Palace museum's collection of Xuan Tong imperial concubines and cheongsam can be regarded as the best quality of the cheongsam of the Republic of China.
The Royal Museum of Ontario in Toronto has many cheongsam in the Republic of China, many of which were brought back to Canada by Canadian missionaries and businessmen who had been to China.
There are many ancient Chinese textile and costume relics collected in Vitoria's Chen Le Bert Museum in the United Kingdom. But recently, a large number of cultural relics of textile and clothing in the Republic of China have been searched, including cheongsam.
Most of the collections were collected in the first half of the twentieth Century, when the costumes were fashionable in the Republic of China, and they were readily available.
Although many of the modern cheongsam has maintained some traditional charm and can reflect the beauty of fashion, it also has the value of collection.
However, most collectors will not have much interest in modern cheongsam.
Private museum collection
clothing
In the 798 Art District of Beijing, there is a private collector of clothing.
Museum
The name of the owner is Guo Pei, one of the most famous contemporary fashion designers in China. He has custom-made clothes for Song Zuying, Zhang Ziyi, Fan Bingbing, Qing Dong and other "first-line stars" for a long time.
Her current identity is "China's top ten designers". She has been a brand designer for 10 years and has made 10 years of advanced costume customization.
Guo Pei's most proud work is a dress that she called "Dajin". This super luxurious artwork has created many miracles in numbers: 28000 hand screws embroidered silver buckles, thousands of axes of European gold thread, the entire garment has a weight of more than 200 kilograms, and 100 embroidery workers have been busy for nearly 3 months, and it has been spent more than 50 thousand hours.
In other words, it takes about 15 years to complete sewing according to the time that a person can work.
In 1996, Guo Pei began to conceive of the establishment of a private museum.
Australia's famous documentary female director Sally Ying ton, taking Guo Pei's work life as the main content, filmed the film in various countries.
In the same year, some of Guo Pei's costumes were exhibited and collected in the Australian Museum.
In 1995, Guo Pei resigned from the brand designer who paid more than ten million yuan a year. He turned to create "Rose Square" and began to try to make advanced customization.
The annual operating cost of the private museum is 600 thousand yuan. Only a small amount of clothing can be displayed in the museum. Most of the clothes need to be stored. These clothes can not be cleaned. The cost of one year's maintenance is basically more than ten million yuan.
China's clothing collection market is just beginning
In the final analysis, collectors at home and abroad have two purposes: one is investment, the other is two.
It is reported that many "two generation" growing up in China have begun to pay attention to this field. They will be more targeted to invest in high fashion, and gradually realize that this investment represents the historical value of a kind of fashion - Antique fashion market value.
However, China's clothing collection market has just started, the market space is very small, many fields are still blank, unlike foreign mature institutions, fashion art works often reach several million yuan, or even tens of millions of yuan.
According to the analysis of the industry, at present, the bottleneck of China's private clothing collection market is not a very mature art collection intermediary platform to drive the operation of the market.
In reality, the status quo of the high-end custom industry that private museums rely on is not optimistic in the whole world. Most of the once famous fashion brands have been closed due to the continuous compression of the market.
On the high fashion week in Paris, the advanced customized brand has gone back to the road.
How to identify the Qing Qing Qipao {page_break}
The materials used in the cheongsam of the Republic of China include traditional brocade embroidery and printed fabrics and printed fabrics.
Leno, a kind of hollowed fabric, was also found in the Qing Dynasty, but it was commonly used in summer cheongsam during the Republic of China.
In addition, traditional materials such as Xiangyun gauze and grass cloth are more popular and comfortable, and are used more frequently in daily life.
The style of Cheongsam in the Republic of China changed a lot.
First of all, through the way of cutting and saving, the shape of the cheongsam is consistent with the curve of the female figure. This is a major feature of the cheongsam of the Republic of China, which is distinguished from the gowns of the Qing Dynasty.
The second is the collar, the Qing Dynasty gowns were mostly without collar, and there was no change in the collar; the collar of the cheongsam in the Republic of China was high enough to cover the cheeks and ears.
In the Qing Dynasty, the robes were very wide and decorated with many pieces of stitching, sleeves folded up (called sleeves), the sleeves of the tuxedo were more like horseshoe shaped arrogate sleeves, and the sleeves of the cheongsam in the Republic of China could be long and short, but there was no hanging bell in the 20s of last century, and then there were many narrow sleeves.
Cheongsam, no matter how big the cut is, is the traditional sleeve, so the rotator sleeve junction is natural and natural, such as western style sleeves, shoulder fold, this so-called Chinese Western style appears extremely late.
There are many right buttons on the front door, and there is a difference between the big ones and the hidden ones.
The slit is related to the cycloidal position. Generally, the lower the cycloid is, the higher the slit is, and the lower the cycloid height is.
The decoration of the cheongsam in the Republic of China tends to be simple. In the Qing Dynasty, many layers of roll were gradually disappearing.
Grid dots and various modern geometric patterns increase, and traditional flower patterns appear in a more concise and general form.
People of plain colors are more popular, and the cheongsam is still heavily colored and heavy, so they are suitable for traditional occasions. Besides, scarlet and so on symbolize auspicious luck.
Expert weapon
"The emperor of Kowloon" Deng Dazhi:
More insurance from designer
[Shenzhen business daily] (reporter Liu Wenying) Deng Dazhi, a famous designer named "Kowloon Emperor" by the fashion industry in Hongkong last night, told our reporter that clothing collection has indeed been hot. However, what level of collection has been achieved and how large the collection is, it is hard to determine at the moment.
He said that collectors generally like to collect 60s and 70s or even more distant clothing in 30s and 40s, the industry called this year's clothing "vinpage".
Deng Dazhi also said that collectors generally do not buy clothes that are popular nowadays. Collectors generally like to buy designer clothes, or clothes worn by celebrities. Their value is generally higher and the value of auctions is also very high.
It is reported that these collectors are available in Hongkong and the mainland, but they do not have a large collection.
In London and Paris, however, there will be many old clothing stores that walk into the library of clothing.
In it, you can find some very valuable, very few brand clothing, and the price is not expensive.
Ordinary clothes only cost 500 to 1500 yuan, and evening wear will be expensive.
Deng Dazhi suggested that if we want to step into the clothing collection, we must first have a hobby for clothes and no fun at all. Secondly, we need to look at the materials used for clothes, for example, the materials of Cheongsam in the people's Republic of China are very fastidious; let's look at the handwork, for example, do we use embroidery and other handcrafts. For Western clothing, we should see whether lace is manual or manual.
Among them, fabric is the most important.
In addition, the representative works of different ages should be chosen, such as the mini skirts, the perspective evening dress and the men's dress for women in 60s. He suggested that collectors would be more secure from the research works of designers, such as the brand design of Chanel has become a museum collection.
He said that if Chanel's works could be collected, there would be market tolerance.
How can we cash the clothes collected? Deng Dazhi said, it can be handed over to a more famous auction companies. Now Christie's and Sotheby's auction houses have branches in the country, and their clothing department can auction those clothes with collectible value.
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