Looking For The Soul Of Hui Costume
On the neon scintillation stage, one or more gorgeous or elegant, or fashionable and elegant Hui costumes, decorated with fringed, embroidered and sequins, bloom like summer flowers.
This is the scene of our common Hui costume exhibition.
Surprisingly, after the performance, most of the beautiful costumes were "quietly retreating" and returned to the exhibition hall or warehouse, where they were waiting for buyers.
A is embarrassing.
In June 18th, Wang Xuewu, chairman of Ningxia Hongqi Clothing Group Co., Ltd., looking at several sets of Hui costumes that had won the performance award in the exhibition hall, said, "from the beginning we have designed more than 1000 sets of Hui clothing, and only received a small number of orders."
Hongqi clothing group is the earliest enterprise to develop and produce Hui clothing in Ningxia. It is also the largest fixed-point production enterprise in Ningxia.
In Wang Xuewu's memory, the enterprise seems to have gone through a process from "ambitious ambition" to "doing what one can".
In 2002, Hongqi Clothing Group signed a cooperation agreement with the Shaanxi textile and Garment College (later called Shaanxi Costa College of fashion) to sign the cooperation project of the Hui ethnic group. 50 schools of 8 categories of Hui clothing were designed in one year.
In 2004, these clothes, together with the 60 sets of 110 sets of Hui clothing designed by Hongqi clothing group, participated in a number of promotional clothing and clothing for Hui people. They were strongly reacted in Wu Zhong and Guyuan, but there were no orders.
"After two years of cooperation with the Academy, we can not afford to pay any more money, and cooperation will end naturally."
In 2005, the leading group of halal food and Muslim products industry development organized 6 enterprises in Yinchuan, and conducted a Hui clothing and accessories show. "We took 135 sets, accounting for more than 60%. The response was good, but there was no order."
"In 2006, we took out 100 sets of design costumes to participate in the performance, and received a small number of orders, which were below 300 thousand yuan.
Only in 2008 Ningxia fifty Daqing, we only received a million yuan of costume orders.
Now, the focus of the enterprise must not turn to uniform production.
Chen Huifang is the manager and fashion designer of Fanghua fashion performing design and production Co., Ltd. in Yinchuan. She has won all kinds of Hui costume design awards in recent years.
But Chen Huifang knew in his heart that it was the biggest embarrassment for the development of Hui clothing and clothing in recent years.
B is hard to enter the ordinary Hui family.
"The works we designed are for ordinary people.
But up to now, there is no clothing that can be accepted by ordinary consumers. "
Chen Huifang said.
Ma Xiaofeng, a girl of Hui nationality, is a student of Ningxia Islamic college. The green head and black gown are her habitual dress. Why do not she dress up more beautifully?
She said that the family's economic conditions were not abundant. In her hometown of Guyuan, many Hui women were reluctant to buy even the cover. Most of them wore the most common Hui hat.
"An ordinary Hui hat is 1.5 yuan, embroidered 10 yuan, and a good 30 yuan."
Wang Xuewu said, "in Ningxia, most of the people who wear the Hui clothing are those who earn less and gather in the Hui area. What we design is always embroidered and hollowed out, and the people do not buy it at all."
The contradiction between design concept and commercial value is also the biggest headache for Chen Huifang. "Ningxia is the only Hui Autonomous Region in China. The Hui population is about 2000000. According to the theory, such a huge customer base, the market should not be a problem.
However, due to the influence of cultural level and understanding, the market reaction is very dull.
I think there are two main reasons: first, the demand and the concept of art are two different things; second, the concept of most customers is traditional and lagging behind.
Chen Huifang sighed with no regrets.
Hong Tao, an expert in the study of Hui clothing in the Ningxia Academy of Social Sciences, pointed out that the process of the development and change of the Hui nationality's dress is the process of the integration of Arabia and Persian culture with Chinese culture. It is a process of constant etiquette and religious life in everyday life.
Hong Meixiang, chairman of the Yinchuan Municipal People's Political Consultative Conference, believes that the research and development of Hui clothing in China has a relatively large advantage in China, and from the international market, the market space for more than one billion Muslims in the world is particularly impressive.
Her current wish is to make the research and development of the Hui dress better and better, and walk into the ordinary Hui people's family.
C joint force research and development to promote the promotion of a way out
"Hui nationality costumes are the simplest in the national costume, and the hat and the cover are the main features.
It is very difficult to find the characteristics of entry. We have been doing this for many years, but we have never found the characteristics of the Hui nationality. It is hard to find from the design to the needs of life, that is to say, we have not really caught the soul of the Hui costume.
Over the years, Ningxia has done many Hui dress and dress competitions, but all of them stay at the level of research and development, and there is not a dress that really makes people look bright.
Wang Xuewu said, "the brand of Hui is only played by Ningxia, and this flag is only carried by Ningxia.
Perhaps we can gather talents from all aspects of the Hui studies, and spend the limited money on the edge of the knife, and invite the powerful clothing masters in China to help us find the soul of the Hui costume.
In view of the embarrassing situation of Hui nationality clothing, it is necessary to popularize it in order to make it industrialized.
And if you want to promote, people who wear clothes do not have 100 thousand people.
Let enterprises spend their financial resources and become bigger and daring to do so.
It is suggested that the government take out 500 thousand hats for promotion and distribute it to the Hui people freely.
Wang Xuewu said, this is his experience these years, "only by promoting and accepting, can the Hui people buy money."
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