How To Learn The Clothing Board?

The human body is the source of clothing design.

Clothing is designed for the human body. In-depth understanding of the body shape and the characteristics of human activities is an important introductory course for learning clothing.

A professional clothing board designer should learn the proportion of the human body and the outline structure of the human body.

The proportion of the human body is the relationship between the length of each part of the body and the fat and thin parts of the body.

The outline structure of human body refers to a certain structural rule of the fluctuation of human body surface.

In particular, the key parts of human body, such as the shoulder, neck, back, chest and other key parts of the human body, which are very restrictive to the human body dress, are characterized by their appearance and characteristics.

To understand the human body is because clothing must satisfy the two functions of human body: first, clothing must satisfy the function of beautifying the human body; second, clothing must satisfy the function of human movement.

Clothing is not a simple reproduction of the shape of the human body, but a simplification, smoothness, dressing and modification of the complex contour of the human body.

Clothing should be made according to the human body, but not the same as the human body.

The surface of the human body is very complex. If we do not use professional equipment, we can only conduct general measurements.

Without a lot of research results from professionals, it is difficult to accurately grasp the human body as a whole.

The human body is the source of clothing structure, but it is totally unnecessary for ordinary learners to abandon the pattern of clothing and simply do research on human body.

The technology of board making should start from archetype.

What is advanced board technology?

Two attributes must be paid attention to: first, the structure must be able to change freely, constantly changing, and do whatever one wants; two, it is necessary to deal with the details in detail.

To sum up, only by using flexibly, the clothing technology of "immortality and good change" is the advanced clothing technology in the true sense.

Is it difficult to make clothes board?

A practical technology has its own complexity and its own regularity. If we can grasp what is essential, we can quickly grasp the key and learn it well.

The key lies in learning essence, learning rules and learning principles.

The important thing is to learn from the source, so it will save time and effort without feeling difficult.

Many beginners learn from one piece of clothing styles and learn something relatively definite. This is very necessary and very traditional, but often it is not flexible in structural change.

Learning from the style cutting of a garment, grasping some essentials of clothing, we must begin to study the deeper structural rules and structural principles, so as to learn the structural changes and finally solve the structural problems.

Due to the late start and the poor foundation, the gap between China's clothing technology is also very obvious. Especially in China, the standards of clothing need to be further improved; the intensity of our research on clothing technology needs to be further increased; in particular, it is necessary to remove the grains, eliminate the false and retain the true, and distinguish the right from wrong.

In short, Chinese clothing is in the very stage of breaking the old system of garment board making, establishing and perfecting the new system, and there is no perfection. The technology of garment board making is in a very important stage of development. The establishment and perfection of China's clothing technology system will take some time.

At this point, technological chaos is inevitable.

In particular, we have a large number of textbooks dealing with the principles and methods of structural design. The similar or different structural design methods are different. Even if the experts in the industry are not at all aware of the differences and changes in the details, the beginners of the structural design are even unable to start.

In my teaching, I find that some students are suffering from the fact that they are very simple and complicated because of their lack of practical work experience. Some students have basic knowledge and are unable to make good shape in practical work. Some students repeatedly learn various kinds of board making methods, a teacher teaches a set of methods, and finally a lot of them mix together and take a big detour. Some people say that if you want to be an excellent costume board maker, you must have six qualities.

The first is to grasp the proportion cutting method, but not to copy the traditional proportion; two is to master the prototype of clothing and lay the foundation of the clothing prototype; the three is to learn the European board type, absorb the essence of the European Board prototype, and quote each other for the use of the Asian panel; four, we should know well about the clothing technology, and we must know it in the garment board, so we must combine the system with practice; five, we should make great efforts to study the proportion of human body and the national dress standard, so as to be familiar with the rules, be good at changing, and be good at using; six, we must grasp the market situation and the changing trend of clothing, and timely adjust the concept of structural design, so as to make the plate and market need to be integrated.

For beginners, what is "school board" learning? This must be clear.

上述六大素質的要求確實有一定的道理:比例裁剪方法是大家常用而且一直在用的東西，不了解就難了解中國服裝的全局，就不知道別人在干什么，就沒有橫向可比性；學習服裝原型，是打好服裝基礎，掌握服裝與人體關系，確立服裝基礎造型的關鍵，是所有有志于學習服裝制板技術者的首選；學習歐板是對亞洲板型的補充，各種板型互為利用，能幫助大家更好地理解復雜的人體與服裝結構之間的內在關系；而熟知服裝工藝又是服裝學習的另外一個重要基礎，是正確把握板型細節，正確處理制板與縫制關系，提高板型質量的重要途徑；細致而具體地研究人體結構比例是提高制板標準化程度的必要保證，那么把握市場行情變化和市場潮流走向，才能使我們的板型符合大眾的需求，反映市場的需要。

Therefore, the learning board is an organic combination of pluralism and comprehensiveness. It is a process that can be continuously improved and strengthened. It requires board planners to constantly pursue, learn in dynamic and improve in dynamic.

The task is multifaceted and requires multi-level. However, our time is limited, especially those who just started learning the clothing board. It is impossible to learn from one aspect.

Although many masters based on their years of experience, summed up a lot of trusted board making methods, it is worth our repeated research and understanding.

But how can we learn from one family after another?

It is worth affirming that every method is the gem of the big family of clothing, and is the result of the tireless pursuit of the masters. However, our garment industry has a long way to go, so that we can integrate our strengths to a new level in order to enable learners to master the overall picture of clothing technology and acquire systematic knowledge in an all-round way.

Therefore, in learning, we must use historical, developmental and comprehensive view to see which methods fully reflect the nature of clothing and have reliability; see which plate making methods are still insufficient and have certain limitations; especially pay attention to the time and conditions under which the research methods are being used.

As a matter of fact, the method is wrong.

Here is an example to illustrate the problem. For example, there are different opinions on the shoulder shoulder problem of clothing in China: some people agree with the method of constant setting shoulder, some set the shoulder down to 4.5cm for women's shoulders and 4cm for the rear shoulder, while others recommend larger shoulders, the front shoulder of women's shoulders is 6cm, and the shoulder shoulder is 5cm; others are determined by the chest method, and the shoulder value is calculated according to the size of the bust, while some people strongly suggest the method of determining the angle by using the method of angle determination.

Of course, these methods are put forward in order to solve some specific problems. They are some specific methods to solve problems. They are different forms of expression under different conditions of shoulder and skew. They are of certain application scope. They are undoubtedly valuable. Some problems may be solved in this way better, and some problems may be solved in that way.

But the headache is: there must be a reason.

These different methods are different in size and method, and the reasons and starting points are not very clear.

This is not a very complicated "shoulder tilt determination problem". So how to learn?

How to master it?

Therefore, we need to find the law in our study: first, we need to understand what factors affect the shoulder slope.

What is the most basic board making method in making boards?

Find out the root cause and find out all the factors associated with it, such as how the shoulder slope should change after the shoulder and chest changes.

Only in this way can we truly understand the law of the determination of shoulder tilt, so as to reduce blindness in learning and to grasp the correct structure.

So I suggest that when you have a certain foundation of clothing, you must learn from the source, learn from the basic structure that has not yet been mixed with the style, and have not been covered by the style, to find the essence of the clothing structure, and fundamentally solve all kinds of structural problems.

This involves the important problem of clothing prototype.

What is clothing prototype?

The clothing prototype is the most basic clothing pattern that accords with the basic clothing requirements of the human body and has no style characteristics.

The most basic garment pattern structure was obtained through human body investigation, stereoscopic cutting and repeated samples.

First, select a series of body shape as the object of study, choose a specific cloth, directly tailor the shape on the human body, then adjust it on the side, then compare it with each other, and then make a synthesis. Of course, after many improvements and long-term use adjustments, a final pattern is finally determined. This pattern is suitable for chest girth and fat, and all kinds of proportions are just right. The effect is that the general stereotactic cutting is difficult to achieve, which is the best result of three-dimensional tailoring.

This pattern will be used as a template for garment board making, which further establishes the basic relationship between clothing and human body. Based on this relationship, we can further deal with different styles of clothing patterns, and discover and invent the basic method of changing the clothing structure with this pattern, forming a complete system. The prototype and prototyping method we need is born.

With the prototype, the tailoring of every part of clothing has its basis.

With this basis, we will not have any technical confusion in clothing.

The prototype board making method has already had a very mature system in foreign countries, but in our country, it is only the beginning, but in recent years it has been increasingly valued by the clothing industry.

The Japanese cultural archetype has been established early, after many revisions, and the Japanese are very close to the figure of the Chinese people, and we can completely borrow it.

The advantages of using the prototype method can be said to have the following points.

One is to solve the problem of determining the amount of clothing plus and release.

The increment of the prototype is the most reliable reference. It has been revised repeatedly through the stereoscopic sample, and has been determined after a long trial. It is very good in keeping with the basic clothing requirements of the ideal human body, and basically solves the problem of quantitative processing in the three-dimensional cutting.

Two, it is better to solve the problem of stereoscopic molding in plane board.

Because the prototype is the result of vertical cutting and sample, its necklines, shoulders, sleeves and so on are obtained directly from the human body, and proofread repeatedly, so that the board makers can understand the basic relationship between the clothing and the human body when making the board, and have the reliable reference, so that they can draw the pattern on the side of the contrast prototype, and make it easy, directly and quantificationally to compare the whole body with the human body in the board making.

The three is to provide a source for the structural design of planar clothing.

Clothing structure should be based on the human body, but the human body is solid, not clothing, not directly as the source of clothing structure, can only be used as an indirect source.

The direct source can only be the prototype pattern as the basic reaction of human body clothing.

The prototype pattern summarizes the general rules of clothing structure and forms the expression way of plane, which can be directly used for plane structure design.

With this source, we can solve complex problems.

Some people say that learning prototypes is an introductory course for beginners to learn clothes. This is true, starting from learning prototypes, but learning prototypes is not only an introductory course, but also an advanced class that wants to go deep into learners. It is an important guarantee for the great improvement of technology.

Establishing a reasonable method of board making

What kind of method is used to make boards?

Is the emphasis on the "stereoscopic cutting" method or the "plane clipping" method?

This is mainly a question of cognition.

The ultimate goal of making boards is to get "flat pattern".

No matter "stereoscopic cutting" or "plane trimming", it is for the final acquisition of "plane pattern".

In this regard, the method of making plate for brand clothing companies is worth learning from.

The first step is to create garment pattern from prototype.

The second step is to use the flat pattern to cut, and then take the cutting piece to the human model to assemble the sample. The stitch can be set up with pins, and the trimming process should be adjusted.

The third step is to modify the plane pattern according to the adjustment.

The fourth step is to send the adjusted pattern to the sewing sample.

The fifth step is to review the sewing samples, especially to organize marketing and professional and technical personnel to make repeated reviews and put forward amendments (review process).

The sixth step is to revise the pattern according to the approval opinion, and then it may have to go through many sewing samples and revise the pattern many times before the final pattern can be obtained.

The seventh step, in order to facilitate the repair of panels and facilitate the guidance of sample sewing, the above pattern can not be first added to the seam. The sample without slit is called "real sample". Once the final pattern is confirmed, the sample is formed by stitching the edges and pushing the board on the basis of the sample, so as to complete all the pattern making work.

Of course, the plate making process of some ordinary manufacturers should be much simpler. It is often the process of directly entering the sewing process after the flat board is made, and then it is determined that the panel will be fixed after examination.

But this too simple procedure is difficult to create quality products, and is not suitable for brand manufacturers.

From the overall perspective, the whole procedure is a combination of plane and three-dimensional.

In the actual board, some people may prefer the method of setting up the cut. Some people may prefer the plane method. We should say that the two methods have their own advantages and disadvantages.

Although stereoscopic cutting has been praised as "magic cutting method" by many people, the excessive dependence on models and the difficulty in grasping quantity and the high cost of making board are deterring beginners.

Especially for models, there is no accurate model. The accuracy of the cutting is affected.

Moreover, it is very difficult for the "model" to handle the activity of clothing.

Many models sold in the market have adjusted the proportion of models for commercial purposes. There are some differences between the models and the real human body, and some models do not wear the thickness of clothing (i.e. clothing level). They belong to summer clothing models, some models are spring and autumn models, and some models are winter models. The standardization of model production is not very strong until now. Most models need to be modified before they are used, that is to say, they should use some cotton and linings, and add them to models, and form a series, which will be very convenient when used.

If you do not pay attention to the proportion of models provided by models, blindly pursue the so-called three-dimensional effect, then you are totally wrong.

Of course, there are some defects in the pure plank making method. Many experienced board planner, while using the plane board, imagine the three-dimensional modeling and make the plate shape very beautiful. It is based on the combination of plane and three-dimensional. However, for the planner who lacks knowledge of human body structure, using the plane method to make boards requires a continuous process of summarizing experience from plane to solid, and it is difficult to reach a higher level at a time.

The plane board must be "stereoscopic in mind," which is the most convenient way to solve the three-dimensional problem by plane method.

If it can be combined with stereoscopic sample, it will become a perfect method of making plate.

If we want to get good shape, we should not unilaterally pursue "three-dimensional" modeling, nor unilaterally pursue "plane". We must deal with the relationship between "plane" and "three-dimensional".

Clothing is not the stronger the better three-dimensional sense. In fact, excessive pursuit of three-dimensional effect will damage the overall shape of the garment.

I have seen more than one time that some styles are still worn by models, but they are very relaxed when worn on the human body. "Excessive stereoscopic feeling" leads to "structural relaxation".

Therefore, a moderate sense of plane helps to make the whole structure compact and harmonious.

To sum up, the garment board is the process of plane pformation under the stereoscopic guidance. The "stereoscopic" is the representation of the human body. The "plane" pattern is the ultimate goal, and the "three-dimensional" is the basis, and the "plane" is the result.

"Stereoscopic" is primary and primitive. It needs "plane" to embody its regular characteristics.

It can embody the method of "making a decision", and can also adopt the plane method. Finally, it should be represented by plane pattern.

In recent years, the rising "prototype board" method is a three-dimensional graphic method, which is closely linked to the human body. It can better combine the three-dimensional features with the plane drawing. To some extent, it can be said that the prototyping method has more perfect features than its methods (preferably combined with the three-dimensional fitting).

The creation and perfection of prototype board making method

The creation of archetypes is a process of abstracting general laws from appearances, and is a huge and complex long-term work.

Especially in the early stage of prototype creation, the survey of human body is the basis for creating prototypes.

At the present stage, there is no complete prototype in China. But because of the close proximity of Japan to the East Asian region, the human body shape is very close. After the spread of the cultural costume prototype created by the Japanese culture and Clothing Institute to our country, it was quickly accepted by the people in the clothing industry, making our traditional cutting technology developed, and greatly promoting the creation of our clothing prototype. Based on our traditional cutting technology, we created many new cutting methods, such as mother type cutting, basic cutting, and so on.

In this pformation without smoke, some people are sticking to the method that they have accustomed to, but some people quickly adapt to the change, so that different voices, different views and various books of different opinions emerge in an endless stream, which add joy and bright points to readers. However, too many views have brought confusion to the readers, especially some authors do not fully discuss, and their views have not been fully developed, leaving behind many questions.

So many problems can not be solved, so that everyone is looking for answers.

Why are there so many ways to produce it?

No other, it is precisely because everyone is looking for an answer. Everyone wants to solve some long-standing problems, so as to discuss them enthusiastically. However, different angles of solution and different starting points inevitably lead to different solutions.

First, it is mainly driven by the traditional cutting method. We always want to pform the prototype obtained from the outside with the method of proportions clipping in China, and create a tailoring method with Chinese characteristics, which is naturally greatly affected, thus creating a series of proportional cutting methods, and also bringing up some very successful mentors.

Second, there is often a lack of early theory in the process of prototype cutting. In the process of making the board, there are always such questions, which have to be adapted and changed. Different ways of dealing with them are different, so different viewpoints arise. Some experienced teachers begin to question that there is creativity in doubt, which should be said to be fruitful.

Third, some board makers are pained by the fact that we do not have their own clothing prototype, and do everything possible to create their own national prototype.

Fourth, there are also some strange phenomena. Some people who engage in clothing education for commercial purposes are either mystifying or deliberately complicate in the aspect of clothing technology. They intentionally make the clothing technology seem confusing. In particular, some individuals adopt a depreciating way in the enrollment propaganda, debase all the existing methods of making plates, and raise some unverified "alternative" views, which adds technical confusion.

No matter what we say, we do not have the true prototype of our "complete meaning" now. The creation of the prototype still needs further efforts and needs the attention of the state.

However, although there is no clothing prototype, because the Japanese body is very close to the Chinese body, we can borrow the Japanese cultural prototype to make the board.

In addition, no matter how the prototype is created, the prototype will always be very close. The Japanese cultural prototype is earlier than ours. No matter where it is revised, we should also call it the "Japanese cultural costume prototype", which is a respect for human culture.

There are several versions of the Japanese cultural prototype.

The old Japanese cultural prototype has appeared earlier, and now the human body is different from the human body in the past. Therefore, the old cultural prototype must be modified when used by modern people, and the human body of the Japanese is different from the Chinese body itself, so there must be some difference when using it.

We can never give it a Chinese name for these natural changes.

The new Japanese cultural prototype is a new prototype that accords with the figure of the young generation in Japan. It is also a prototype which is more suitable for the modern Chinese.

The old and new cultural archetypes focus on each other.

The archetype of the old culture type is broad and strong, which reflects the basic law of the clothing structure more accurately and is very suitable for the ordinary plate type.

The new cultural prototype has changed the traditional style of the old cultural prototype. According to the characteristics of the modern Japanese youth, a prototype of the box has been built with the emphasis on the characteristics of the fit style.

The new and old cultural prototype is due to the different starting points and strong complementarity, and plays different roles in the board.

The old cultural prototype is very flexible and convenient because of its generality. It is very popular with everyone. The new cultural prototype adds the prototype structure. But its structure is too complicated. It is different from our traditional fashion structure method. We must adapt to a new set of board making methods. Once we master the way of using it, its great efficiency can be exerted.

Therefore, we are currently discussing the use of archetype, not only to discuss the archetypal archetype, but also to study the new cultural prototype. We must master the overall system of the prototype use method, and strive to combine the Chinese characteristics of human body, so that the use of Japanese cultural archetypes has the characteristics of Chinese people's own use, that is, to meet the requirements of Sinicization.

The difference and connection between men's wear and women's wear

In the clothing industry, there are differences between "male life" and "female life".

First, men and women are different in size and dress characteristics; the two is due to the difference in workmanship and the difference in process settings.

And in the board making method, of course, men wear men's clothing, women's clothing has the structure of women's clothing.

First, men wear reusable "breast skimming" and women wear "dart".

"Skimming" is the deviation from the front of the garment pattern. It is mainly influenced by the chest shape of the human body. It mainly shapes the chest shape of the garment and makes the chest shape full.

The more developed the chest muscles, the smaller the amount of breast skim.

Because the breast body is bulging, the central line of the chest is not muster than that of the breast. Therefore, if too many breast skimming is used, the front door of the garment will be very relaxed, so the front flap will sag, causing the front flap to be "open".

"Provincial road" is a kind of modeling that centers on edge contraction, which is mainly used to create three-dimensional modeling.

The male body is relatively smooth because of the chest. If the dart is used, the front chest of the garment will be uneven, and the overall shape will be destroyed.

After wearing dart, the chest shows a three-dimensional shape, which is in line with the female body characteristics. It can make the dress structure rigorous, symmetrical and uniform, and enhance the aesthetic feeling of the dress.

Therefore, there is a saying that "dart is the soul of women's clothing".

For men who have chest swollen, they can add a neck or waist and waist. For chest upright women, you can consider using breast skimming.

In addition, as the clothing has to accommodate underwear, as the thickness of underwear increases, the outer coat is leaving the body more and more. The underwear changes to cover up the outline of the human body. At this time, the front line of the female body is covered by clothing and the front centerline is longer. At this time, a certain amount of breast skimming can be used.

Second, the basic volume of clothing for men and women is different.

The basic volume of men's and women's wear depends on two aspects:

First, we must meet the needs of normal human activities.

The human body is a moving body. When moving, the skeleton slides under the skin, causing considerable deformation. In order to adapt the garment wrapped in the outer layer, there must be some gap between the human body and the human body to meet the dynamic expansion needs of the human body.

The two is to adapt to the different styles of men's and women's clothing.

Men's wear should be casual and women's clothing should be warm and comfortable.

The typical men's wear is straight and straight, elegant women wear beautiful lines.

In this sense, men's and women's clothing have their own "Dao" and each has their own requirements. Men's clothing must be characterized by a large amount of relaxation to reflect the requirements of "flat" and "stiff". Only by designing an adequate volume can we meet this requirement, and women's clothing is lighter and more relaxed with smaller relaxation. If the design is too loose, it will lose the dressing style of women.

Third, the similarities and differences between male and female clothing outline.

Because men's wear and clothing are bigger and the clothing is not close to body, there is no need to make the outline of the garment very curved and soft, but according to the rough and loose straight style of the men's clothing, the rigid lines of the contour lines must be drawn in the board, and the lines in the board should be drawn more smoothly, so as to show the wind of the men's clothing.

However, the structure of women's suits must strive to create a sense of "line", and strive to highlight the beautiful figure of women, do more waist processing appropriately, and adopt the changing curvilinear modeling to fully embody the temperament of women.

In the development of women's wear, the women's suit was created by absorbing the shape of men's suit.

Many women's clothing structures absorb some styles and characteristics of men's wear in the development, which make men's and women's clothing blend and learn from each other and promote each other in the long term development. Men's clothing has a stable structure, while women's clothing often absorbs some structural features of men's clothing. In the design, women's clothing can be mixed with some styles of men's clothing, which will make the structure of women's clothing more distinctive.