2010, Is The Advanced Customization Opening Or Closing?

Designer Marry Ma believes that

In 1858, Charles Frederick Voss, the father of fashion, opened the first fashion shop for French ladies in Paris. It not only introduced design concepts to the fashion industry, but also became the originator of the advanced custom fashion.

Therefore, it once became the exclusive luxury of the court ladies and gentlemen who went to and from Paris. In the 50s of last century, the annual sales volume of Paris's advanced customization had reached 500 million US dollars.

In recent years, there has been a rapid decline in advanced customization in the West. Almost every year, a senior custom brand has left the fashion show, and several brand stores have been forced to close down.

In 2002, Yves Saint Laurent, the famous fashion designer, announced that it had withdrawn from the fashion industry and became a landmark event in the decline of advanced custom fashion.

Although the direct profit brought by advanced customization is not good enough, the designer of the French fashion defender, Stian rakat, said: "the only standard of high quality custom fashion is beauty, not commercial significance.

I spend an average of more than 300 hours on every high fashion, and the most time-consuming work takes at least one or two months, which is the high value of high fashion. "

Perhaps exaggerated words are just a saying, but we do see that the consumption concept of advanced custom fashion has not declined because of its shrinking market.

In France, it still has quite strict "blood pedigree identification". It must be a studio designed by a high-ranking fashion designer to tailor-made for the customers, and hand-made customized fashion works. Designers and their boutiques must be identified by the French High Fashion Association. The designer's studio employs at least 20 full-time employees, and the Title of "advanced customization" of his works is protected by law.

It is because of the almost crazy degree that the advanced customization makes no difference in the process of manufacture or sale, so from the day it was born, it was destined to be associated with luxury.

The exquisite decoration technology undoubtedly makes the advanced custom fashion like painting, paying attention to the use of technology and the reconstruction of materials, and conveying the constant pursuit of human aesthetics.

In the eyes of the fans of advanced custom clothes, this exquisite and humanized work has become an art that can keep pace with music and art.

In the face of fastidious high-end customers, the only requirement for the production of high-end custom clothes is to be picky. The pursuit of perfect details does not involve any cost. From the reception to the designer, from the planner to the plate maker, from the tailor to the tailor, and to the final quality inspectors, each stage is the best person in the service, and the completion of a fashion often takes 5, 6 months or even longer.

Who is wearing?

The pursuit of uniqueness is irreplaceable. It is the reason why people are willing to pay high fees for tailored clothing.

Dressing is a sign of identity and taste.

No matter how expensive the top garments are, they are more respectable than a set of tailored clothes that are exclusive to you.

The western-style clothing itself represents the preciseness and tradition, and it also makes a lot of attention when wearing western style clothes.

At this time, the appearance of customization relieved people a lot of embarrassment, from fabric to design, and even the suggestion of wearing, everything is tailored for you.

The advanced clothing customization brings us not only the fit, but also the aristocratic service.

In the United Kingdom, the mention of "Savile Row" not only represents a period of architecture in Britain, but also represents a high standard cutting level for ladies and gentlemen clothing. This is the birthplace of advanced custom garments, which means the tailoring skills of British tailor street and a limited manual customization near Lun don street.

In the advanced custom shop, most of the service personnel who dress well and behave gracefully will provide services for you. They have a deep understanding of the suit. You can hear many useful suggestions in their conversation.

A professional staff will also decide that your customized suit will have good quality.

The process of excellence

The process of customization is very long. It can be summarized briefly as follows: material selection, tailoring, cutting, trying (hand stitching), sewing, re trying, and finishing.

Each step is particularly critical in these processes.

Custom-made clothing is usually made by hand, which is the most valuable value of customized services.

The production process is complex and rigorous. Usually, it has to go through hundreds of processes: fabric treatment, ironing and pulling, wool lining treatment, pattern plate printing, hand sew shell, thread nail, fitting, modification and light test. Every step must be meticulous and prudent.

Because of the different shape of the customer, each product can not be measured by a unified standard, and several tests must be made in order to ensure that the size will not deviate.

But the style version is not affected by the non - standard size is also a test, and if it can do this, the brand's custom service is fully worth visiting.

In the eyes of many custom masters, the quality of a suit is due to 4 factors: workmanship, tailoring, fabric and accessories.

A suit of neat suits is also important.

Take Savile Row as an example. As an apprentice, learning clothes for at least 5 years, trousers for 3 years, want to become a master figure, it takes a lifetime.

According to the size of the customer, tailoring one version to a complex format is much more complicated than a push.

The version is good and suitable to reflect the essence of customized men's clothing, and also reflects the attitude of the shop to customers.

Custom-made clothing attaches great importance to the quality of fabrics to a large extent, especially in Western clothes, because the texture and color of fabrics will affect the matching of wearing occasions and styles.

All of this is a prerequisite for making a high quality custom suit, but whether the finished product is consistent with the expected value, the most important prerequisite is communication before production, telling the stylist what style you want, style, and the visual perception that you want to convey to others is the most important information.

Japanese advanced customization is the main service.

In fact, every country's advanced customization is just like the character of this country, and Japan is no exception.

Anyone who has been to Japan knows how the Japanese domestic service industry enthusiastically serves the guests. With the help of advanced customization, how can we talk about the service?

In the aspect of advanced garment customization, the British are the first ones to carry on the traditional inheritance. As for the research and development of fabrics, the Italians are the first ones.

The Japanese also have hand made advanced costumes, but it's still a little bit less important to decide what to do. It's probably something called Japanese characteristics.

Because of the island country, Japanese manufacturers have been persistent in order to enhance their competitiveness, and have even standardized the advanced customization that can bring out the feelings of the tailor.

This is not a derogatory term. The purpose of the Japanese is to circumvent the long customized cycle in Europe. Look at the streets of Japan, and everyone is in a hurry.

Japan is almost the most efficient country in the world.

In Japan, lunch is only five full, because it can continue to work hard in the afternoon, and the consequences of being full of food are exhausted.

Only Japanese can collect nearly ten million physique parameters from the street, helping to establish standardized samples.

On the basis of joint efforts and standardization of different craftsmen, it will take only 6.5 hours to raise production efficiency to suit each suit, which of course reduces the cost effectively. The purpose is to make every working man in Tokyo have his own custom suit.

The so-called standardization, of course, still need to complete the goods, otherwise how to deserve the name of customization?

The custom brand of Japanese suits can almost satisfy all your requirements, because the store must have thousands of fabrics from all over the world, and there must be a thousand or eight kinds of local designs.

These are the basic points. As the origin of Japan's advanced customization, there must be something to win.

After the instructions from Mr. Yu Jinguang, director of the clothing Institute of Beijing, we know the classic service rule of the Japanese hot, cold and hot. This is the reason why the opening ceremony is called "ice and fire".

The so-called "one hot" means that when you enter the door, you can patiently explain your service, calmly, and professionally explain.

"Two cold" means that in the process of processing, the manual part will be time-consuming and consummate to machine forming, and the Japanese will never spare any efforts in the development of modern technology.

"Three heat" means that in the later stage of the trial, it is completely satisfactory to make guests go out, even door-to-door service. What is kneeling service? That's just a national habit. The purpose of Japanese doing so is actually very simple. It just doesn't want to bring too much service to the guests.

When the person who gives you the service looks at you, you may see what he can't see on weekdays, and you can understand what he wants to say from a guest's point of view.

In Japan, a man has to set at least 7 suits every year.

Their salesmen make good records for every customer, and help customers plan well. In spring and summer, they should set several sets, and set several sets in autumn and winter.

If a customer fails to make 7 suits in a year, their salesperson will call the customer and listen to him sincerely.

Their attitude towards customers is undoubtedly a strong reflection of the spirit of service.

Editor's note: personal physique, character and taste affect the design requirements of clothing, and patiently respect guests, that is, the essence of service. From the point of view of customization, perhaps in terms of service, what Japanese can bring to guests may be truly a concept of personalized service.