Zegna: Low-Key Luxury Glory

Gildo Zegna, chief executive of Zegna group, is wearing a set of Zegna tailored light grey suits, dark thin wool socks, Suede Sandals, black tortoise glasses and black cylindrical pens. It is a gentleman like sitting in Zegna's Shanghai global concept store in Huaihailu Road Li Bao Plaza.
 

The fabric of the suit can stand up to gaze and stick to the body line, but it is not very tight; the trouser legs are not long, unlike Chinese men's trousers, which are stacked on the upper surface of shoes, but when they stand at the moment, they just sit on their shoes and sit down to reveal a sock -- the craft of Italy tailors. In this context, Mr. Gildo Zegna looks like a professor version of Al Pacino.
 

"I am not a social activist, although they often tell me that you should do this and that, but our family are always down-to-earth and do not like to publicize." This may be the cause of the following facts - the 35 years since the advent of George Armani, founder of Giorgio Armani, in Italy, and Armani (founder Gianni Versace) has been founded in 1913 for 32 years, Prada (founder Mario Prada), and Zegna has welcomed the 100 year's birthday this year. Sales in 2009 were $1 billion 200 million.
 

As the leader of the world's top men's wear, Zegna group produces 2 million meters of textile fabrics, about 2000000 sets of garments and 1 million 700 thousand pieces of clothing accessories every year.
 

At the same time, it has more than 6000 employees and over 550 stores in 86 countries around the world, and has more than 75 stores in Greater China. Among them, the largest concept store in Asia is the Zegna shop of Shanghai Li Bao Plaza, which is located in the VIP tailored and private shopping area with golden paint and silk carpet.
 

On the evening of July 8th, Kaige Chen, Chen Hong and his wife, dawn, Zhang Jingchu, Alec Su, Deng Chao, Rhododendron, Lv Yan and other performing stars, as well as Wang Zhonglei, Wang Zhonglei, Mao, and blog leaders gathered here to pay tribute to a centennial family business.
 

Starting with "the most beautiful fabric in the world"
 

There are two lifeline in Italy, one is the art of illuminating the whole Europe during the Renaissance - Florence, the American family, Michelangelo, Da Finch, Rafael... The other is family businesses that can be traced back to twelfth Century.
 

Zegna group is a traditional family business in Italy. It originated in the second half of the nineteenth Century, Angelo Angelo (Zegna Zegna). His huge portrait is now hanging in Villa Zegna, a family house in Milan, full of Renaissance ornaments and paintings from famous masters. Not long ago, dawn became the first star in the world to be invited into this mansion.
 

More than a hundred years ago, Angelo decided to set foot in the textile industry and began making woollen fabrics with 4 looms. More than 100 years later, in 2010, Gildo Zegna, CEO of his fourth generation and Zegna group, said in Milan that the circular, rose gold watchcase and the limited production of 100 watches by the centennial celebration were "significant" and salute to the great grandfather.
 

In 1892, Angelo's tenth child, Ermenegildo (Ermenegildo), was born. At the age of 18, he founded Lanificio Zegna (Zegna woolen mill) in a town near Biella, a region near the Alps. It was actually a simple little workshop which started from 4 looms and began to produce "the most beautiful fabric in the world", no doubt Trivero.
 

Those are small pieces of woolen fabric. Water used in the process comes from the mountains near the Alps. This water contains no minerals, which is the secret of softness of Zegna fabrics.
 

In the late nineteenth Century and early twentieth Century, superior fabrics were produced in England and Scotland, together with the famous tailoring street Savile Row in London. It can be said that the United Kingdom almost monopolized the world's top fabric market. Ermenegildo believes that Italy has such a long culture and history that there should be matching goods.
 

"People in Trivero town do not know whether Ermenegildo Zegna should be a madman or a dreamer, but they all think he is not the kind of person who can be called" down to earth ". But in fact, Ermenegildo's down-to-earth approach is far more determined than what Trivero residents know. Son Aldo Zegna said.
 

He must be a perfect man. From his huge radius of buying raw materials, he can see his vision and courage: buy Merino wool from Australia, buy Mohair from South Africa, buy cashmere from Inner Mongolia and silk from Jiangsu and Zhejiang, and buy cotton from Egypt. He is also willing to accept and promote technological innovation: he bought machinery and equipment from rival Britain.
 

From the beginning, he realized the importance of advertising. Zegna was the first company to advertise on trains in Italy.
 

He stitched his name on the fabric like a real craftsman - he was the first person to do so - to declare the fabric to the world, these works came from the hands of Italian Ermenegildo Zegna, and this tradition has been preserved so far.
 

Today, the original intuition and judgement of the company decided the path of Zegna, low-key and steady, and pursuing quality. It was destined to have the potential to cover the world from the date of its birth.
 

By 1938, Zegna had 1000 employees, and 450 fabrics were designed and produced. These ferries covered with red seal fabrics were shipped to the US ports. By 1945, Zegna's fabrics were exported to more than 40 countries. Today, they are still the most proud export commodities in Italy, and also other top brands such as Giorgio Armani.
 

Ermenegildo's business savvy is not confined to his field. He firmly believes that the high quality products that he striving for is inseparable from the close support of the local environment and community. He also knows that the beautiful natural environment and people's health and welfare (not just the employees inside the enterprise) are necessary factors for a company to achieve long-term success.
 

In 1932, there was a conference hall, a library, a gymnasium, a theater and a public swimming pool in the town of Trivero. Just a few years later, a medical center and a conservation center were raised in the town.
 

Angelo, Zegna, the third generation of Zegna people and former honorary chairman of the group, said of her father's achievements: "I find four forces run through my father's life. First, the father was born in a good time to display his business talents, when a small number of small companies competed. Second, he can always find ways to provide high quality and innovative Italy fabrics that are far ahead of British rivals. Third, he can always show his open mind when it comes to welfare for the company and redistribution of workers' value. Fourth, he established a deep-rooted relationship with nature. He knew that natural resources were limited. We must protect them; he had begun to practise before the term "ecologist" came into being.
 

Ermenegildo, a former ecologist, is also a good at learning, diligent and entrepreneurial person. "My grandfather Ermenegildo Zegna founded the company in 1910. Since then, he has kept handwriting records of all fabric structures and customer orders. That's why we decided to work with writing tool specialist Omas (OMAS) to design a pen of the Centennial Limited Edition (100). Gildo Zegna, the fourth generation leader, said in an interview with fortune hall that he always had Zegna underwear from head to toe, including underwear. If it were not too heavy, he would take it with him.
 

Legend of a top luxury brand
 

More than 73 years old, his two sons, Angelo and Aldo, gradually took over from their father in 60s. As a matter of fact, two young people have seen the way of their father's management and studied and worked at home and abroad.
 

When E Maini Jill died, Zegna was already moving towards the world's top men's clothing market. In 1968, the brothers opened a factory in Nova, Italy, and produced a series of sleeves and trousers. With good quality fabrics, the new series has been a great success. Subsequently, the two brothers quickly began to open up overseas markets, first in Spain and Switzerland, followed by Paris, London, New York, Tokyo and Hongkong.
 

They study the potential demand of men's clothing and develop the market in depth: from suits to sportswear, from shirts, ties to cufflinks, from leather shoes, belts to purses, from windbreaker to umbrellas, from watches to pens to sunglasses, but never to women's clothing. "We are a prudent brand and do not like to create great movements," Gildo said.
 

It is classicalism and the elegance of traditionalism to practise and strive for excellence instead of blind expansion day by day.

Zegna launched its Su Misura in 1972 to achieve the customization in leather garments, jackets, trousers, coats, shirts and ties in just a few weeks.
 

The "Couture" series represents the highest level of Zegna men's wear. The exquisite fabrics, Italian style tailored, luxurious and cool details, and cross stitch labels push the garments to the extreme. It is said that each of the Couture series has been trained by skilled Italy technicians for at least 18 hours and has been sewed by 33000 needles.
 

This is a brand that is destined to be legendary. The legend slowly ripples naturally. An art broker in Shanghai has ordered a set of handmade Zegna Global Limited Edition suit for his wedding at a price of 130 thousand yuan. This suit is made of 12 to 13 micron wool, and the "Golden Fleece" fabric is even thinner than the silk. The suit must be made in Switzerland and tailored by the Italy master because of the fabric's climate requirements. The button is made of the hardest horny kind of animal. He had been waiting for 50 days to tailor this suit.
 

The gentleman soon fell in love with Zegna, because the suit he wore after he wore it had been levelled all day, and he didn't need ironing at all. After that, he learned all the knowledge about the quality of western style clothes in the Zegna store. He was also pleasantly surprised to find that Zegna's cowboy clothes could be made as light as feathers.
 

"The process of making every costume sounds romantic. I spent 130 thousand buying aristocratic romanticism and harshness, realizing what is exquisite. He said.
 

Zegna produces 50 high-end suits every year, with a unit price of 169 thousand yuan. Zegna works hard for these 50 limited edition suits every year.
 

The best quality wool in Australia is known as "golden wool" in the fashion industry. Every year, the wool that is awarded the gold medal in the Australian wool competition will be exchanged for the same weight of gold by Zegna.
 

For example, in 2008, the world's highest wool award with the highest gold content was awarded to the two wool producers of Simon and Priscilla Cameron in the Canterbury area of Southern New Zealand. Their wool products are only 10.8 microns in diameter and very soft. As the winner of the "Zegna Vellus Aureum International Award (Ermenegildo Zegna Vellus Aureum International Trophy)", they won gold and wool and other heavy metals, and a sculpture created by the famous Swiss artist Not Vital for the award.
 

Zegna founded the "Zegna Vellus Aureum International Award" in 2003. The world's best and softest wool is generally 13.9 microns. Stimulated by huge rewards in recent years, wool producers finally reached the peak in 2008 and wrote the best record of 10.8 microns. The wool is made into a limited edition fabric, not more than 50 meters in length.
 

The Zegna group has signed an agreement with the top wool Association of Australia: the former will buy all the wool products of the shortlisted persons and sign a long-term cooperation agreement with the wool producers. These high quality wool will be used to produce the highest quality Ermenegildo Zegna garments and accessories to the most noble people in the world. For example, some wool producers have received huge rewards, and proudly told them, "my wool has been chosen by Prince Charles."
 

In fact, the annual output of "golden wool" is only enough to make 20 suits, so customers who wish to order can only wait until the wool has come out. This kind of temperance and compliance with the power of nature is one of the connotations of top brands.
 

Usually, after Zegna's wool suit is worn, hang the clothes rack into the cupboard for 6 days, and the wrinkles will disappear naturally. This is the fabric that is constantly being developed.
 

All clothes bought in Zegna stores can be sent to dry cleaning at any time, free.
 

Reporters at a global concept store in Shanghai witnessed the whole process of a Chinese couple buying shirts. The shop assistant's suit is very smooth, polite and soft spoken, and the housekeeping shopping guide simply makes shopping itself noble. That scene can not be overdone with Pavarotti's most beautiful aria.
 

The fourth generation of family in the age of Globalization
 

Like her father, Angelo and Aldo also led the fourth generation of Gildo, Paolo, Anna, Benedetta, Laura and Renata into the company and gradually took over managerial positions.
 

At the same time, along with the footprints of her father, Angelo and Aldo devote themselves to improving public interest in the local natural landscape: thousands of trees have been planted, and the Panoramica Zegna, which is 14 kilometers long, has been built, connecting Bielmonte and Trivero to the resort 1500 meters above sea level, which is 1500 meters above sea level. In 1963, they invested in the construction of a residential residential area for their workers. 2 years later, a ski resort was built at the end of the residential area.
 

Expansion is continuing. In 1980 and 1985, the first Zegna store opened in Paris and Milan, and is the starting point for the huge sales system of Zegna today, which covers five continents.
 

Now every member of the fourth generation of the family plays a decisive role in the field of his own good: Gildo, who was born in 1955, is the CEO of Zegna group, and Paolo, who is 1 years old, is the chairman of the group. The 57 year born Anna is the image director and the president of the Zegna Zegna (Fondazione Zegna), Benedetta is responsible for personnel work, Laura is the head of Zegna oasis, and Renata manages the board affairs of the group.
 

The fourth generation is mature in the era of globalization, and the global coverage of Zegna has naturally advanced to a new level. Since 90s, Zegna has tamped up the high-end position of an international luxury brand, ranging from garments to accessories.
 

In 2002, Zegna took the lead in taking the Longhi brand of the luxury fur manufacturer. Then, in the same year, Savoy Salvatore Ferragamo group co founded a joint venture ZeFer, focusing on developing a global sales oriented footwear and leather products company.
 

With the launch of the first Zegna perfume, Essenza di Zegna, the brand diversity of the group has been further improved. In 2003, the perfume was sold by YSL Beaut. Next, three other fragrances have been launched in a high profile, including Z Zegna and the latest Zegna Zegna Colonia.
 

In 2004, Zegna and De Rigo jointly launched the first series of sunglasses and spectacle frames. In 2006, in collaboration with designer Tom and Ford, the Tom Ford series appeared in spring and summer in 2007. In the same year, Perofil, a manufacturer in Italy, developed Zegna underwear, socks, pajamas and so on.
 

So today, Mr. Gildo, who sits opposite "fortune hall", is his own brand from head to toe, from inside to outside, and he emphasizes: "always."
 

Who is wearing Zegna?
 

2007 has a milestone significance for Zegna group. In October 25th, the Zegna world's first concept shop, designed by Peter Marino, was opened on Mont Napoleon Boulevard in Milan. 3 months later, second concept stores opened in Fifth Avenue, New York. In the autumn of 2008, Tokyo Shinjuku and Dubai also had their own new concept shops.
 

Today, the concept store, which is designed for the Chinese new high and has a retail area of 726 square meters, stands in the center of Huaihailu Road Bao Bao Plaza. It also comes from the hand of Peter Marino, a fellow of the Institute of American architects. Before, the store he designed for Chanel and Gucci was loved by all the leaders.
 

There are many textile elements in the concept store. Peter Marino said: "the dynamics of the textile machine let me conceive the design concept of stainless steel strips. Selection of materials and colors, such as sky blue and alpine green stone, are inspired by the strong sense of mission of nature in the Oasi conservation area built by Ermenegildo Zegna family in northern Italy. In different areas of the global concept store, different wood is used to form a complete House of Zegna. The marble stripes on the ground are salutation to Zegna's unique selvage - the label on the edge of the fabric representing the promise of good quality.
 

Mr. Gildo's favorite store is probably the Napoleon Street store in Milan. He praised it for its beautiful appearance. In Milan, where the famous street was concentrated, it was effortless to become a nobleman in the nobility. Secondly, this noble spirit was excavated to the extreme. "It does not reject thousands of miles away, but it makes people feel unattainable."
 

Former US President Clinton, former French President Mitterrand, British Prince Charles and Hollywood movie star Clark gable are Zegna clients. "Many of our senior customers come from royalty and government officials. Their identity determines that they can't have a clear logo on clothing, so Zegna pays more attention to detail in design. People who like Zegna certainly don't like publicity. They love themselves and keep a low profile. "
 

Take a look at the global image endorser chosen by Anna about the taste of Zegna - Adrian Adrien (Brody), who is not the most American in the United States. He played the role of a talented Poland Jewish pianist in Roman piansky's pianist and won the seventy-fifth Oscar prize for best actor, the youngest movie winner in Oscar history. In 2004, he was dressed in Zegna to attend the Oscar prize presentation ceremony.
 

Then, the handsome actor Mexico movie star Diego Luna, pianist and singer Peter Cincotti became spokesperson, and then came the "first child" dawn.
 

In sportswear, the handsome Italy football stars Alberto Gilardino and Italy famous golfer Edoardo Molinari have all been the spokesmen for the Zegna Sport series global image. Jimmy Lin, an Asian heavenly king, has also turned into a handsome knight, explaining a 2007 high-tech jacket Element Jacket that can automatically adjust his body temperature with external temperature.
 

The black dressing gown, interpreted by the hybrid model Akemi, is a huge fan of female fans.
 

Zegna landed in mainland China in 1991 and became a pioneer in luxury brands. The first franchised store is located in The Peninsula Hotel, five Fu Jing, Beijing. In the past 20 years, there are 55 Zegna brand stores in 32 cities in China.
 

Zegna plans to increase another 20 in 2010, half of which is in China. Obviously, China is now the largest market of Zegna (followed by Brazil), which brings tens of millions of euros in profits every year, and also trains a group of loyal and low-key users.
 

The pianist Lang Lang is one of the few celebrities in China who can disclose "Zegna fans". As long as he takes part in the performance, it is not Zegna to choose western style clothes. The body language of his playing is obvious to all. Therefore, Zegna fully matches his athletic needs in the permeability, elasticity and sewing process of fabrics, and can still keep his cool in sweat. Lang Lang has tasted the taste of a good suit and can not stop it.
 

In fact, many of China's emerging "rich, expensive and elegant" classes are unable to stop Zegna. This is reflected in the financial statements of Zegna. Washington certainly does not represent the future of Zegna. The men here are dressed as political air: dark suits, or PoloT, metal edge glasses are popular. President Obama is wearing an unblemished stone blue cowboy, while vice president Biden's purple tie is suspected of GQ style.
 

"It is not that the level of Zegna's operation is rising, but that China's special class is getting bigger and bigger." The Zegna family has been very impressed by this group of Chinese people: "I believe no luxury brand does not like the Chinese market because it is too big, too tolerant and too sentimental. For luxury brands, the Chinese market will mean a new generation of legends.
 

In the eyes of the Zegna family, China's first generation of upstarts can quickly understand Armani's pursuit of artistic form, Canali's adherence to tradition, and Zegna's pursuit of subtle beauty. They lock in Zegna with their own values.
 

"We are indeed different from other luxury brands. The implication of Chinese culture is consistent with the image of Zegna brand. We believe that Zegna will encounter more and more intimate friends in China, and their aesthetic taste and character will also become a part of the spirit of Zegna design in the future." Gildo said.

Dialogue Gildo Zegna - Zegna's fourth generation CEO: half of genes, half of interest.
 

Reporter: there is an old saying in China that "rich is less than three generations". Today, Zegna has gone to 100th years. As the fourth generation of leaders, what do you want to say at such a moment?
 

Gildo: there are many. First, as a company's CEO, I feel very honored. So far, the brand is in a very healthy state. Especially in the past two years, the company is also facing the challenges brought by the economic crisis. It is like a storm when you are flying, you have to face it bravely instead of foolishly evading it. Luckily, under the leadership of Henderson, the company was able to emerge from the crisis. I think it's wonderful. This not only represents the past, but also represents the future. It is the past plus the future.
 

I am very happy to have a centennial celebration in China. This year, the sales volume in mainland China has ranked first in our worldwide sales. That is why we are holding this celebration in two big cities all over the world: one is Milan and the other is Shanghai. You will see many stars coming here the day after tomorrow.
 

Reporter: as a foreigner, what do you think of the increasing number of rich people in China?
 

Gildo: from beginning to end, I think wealth is a kind of success and quality, and wealth is becoming a foundation for people to improve their quality of life. I visited World Expo yesterday. I think the Expo is actually showing the improvement of people's quality of life and the love for the environment. I also read the Zegna Pavilion, which focuses on the quality of products and the quality of customers' shopping and consumption. I think people should pursue this quality.
 

I remember when I first started working in America, it was rare for men to go shopping. Even though they were rich, they didn't want to spend time, because they thought shopping was boring. But now, even in China, the trend of men's shopping and consumption is also rising, because they actually have the desire to change the quality of life and enjoy the fun in the process.
 

Lifestyle can be changed. For example, one of my friends in China and the United States, 20 years of Chinese life changed his old way of life. For example, many wealthy people in Chengdu will follow the way of life after coming to a prosperous metropolis like Shanghai.
 

If you want to live with a unique flavor, you can change your lifestyle and make it different. Consumption is to explore a better way of life and living environment, which can be hard to get. I think many rich people in China are walking on this road.
 

Yes, China gives us the opportunity to make many good friends. There will be more new ways to know different friends later. In the next five years, I will probably settle in China. I believe that more foreigners will be settled in China at that time. ]
 

Reporter: what does the Zegna family think of wealth? Can you describe your daily life and your necessities?
 

Gildo: of course, our family life is very good, but it can not be regarded as a very luxurious life. My family has done more successfully in daily life: regular life, good friends, and exploring how to manage a good family. But I don't think it's necessary to do these things very deliberately. Naturally, we can get along with each other. In fact, what customers value most is the feeling of being casual, natural and comfortable.
 

My personal life is relatively low-key. I am not a social activist. I don't like to appear in many social occasions. Although management often reminds me that you should do this, that is why our family are always down-to-earth and not Zhang Yanggao.
 

Of course, people have the title of "new rich" and "old rich". "New rich" is probably a person who starts from scratch and obtains considerable wealth in his or his generation. "Old wealth" refers to a generation who inherits family or family wealth, and I may represent the "old rich" who inherits the family industry.
 

"New rich" may have an adaptation process to wealth, such as buying and possessions of luxury goods, while "old rich" may be more able to face wealth and pursue comfort and nature more. Of course, "new rich" will learn how to consume and treat wealth to "old rich".
 

Reporter: what is the first luxury item you get from your family?
 

Gildo: it's a Rolex watch. It's very expensive and classical. It was received on my birthday. Oh, not a car.
 

Reporter: when did you start your career?
 

Gildo: I first started my career in the US and Tokyo, outside the family company. I always believe that opportunity + Interest + condition = success. Some things happen very naturally. Fortunately, in this natural process, I have investigated and studied the major companies and the Chinese market, and have accumulated some experience.
 

Secondly, you have to be interested in what you are doing. You must have passion.
 

Not long after, I had the ability and conditions to start a company. Of course, during that process, I also encountered many setbacks. I learned how to make major choices and how to help others. Failure is my personal experience and my greatest challenge. I don't think it pays to be successful, but there must be something behind it. Everyone is the same.
 

Reporter: what about genes? Does today's business have anything to do with genes?
 

Gildo: I think you are right, half of the genes, from the heritage of the ancestors, half of the interest, is my personal passion, interest and experience.
 

Reporter: we have just seen the Zegna family's 100 year picture album. What are the changes in the brand in the past one hundred years? Besides, do you value innovation?
 

Gildo: what hasn't changed in the past one hundred years is the pursuit of excellence. The variety and style of clothing have changed a lot.
 

With the change of the times, the style of clothing is more and more modern, pursuing fashion and trend. Of course, we will not let it go to the extreme, low-key, implicit, is still the dominant brand.
 

Like the "Z Zegna series" is designed for those who pursue a strong temperament and fashionable elegance. The combination of avant-garde design and innovative fabric creates a new fashion style.
 

The "Zegna Sport series" pays more attention to the research and development of high-tech fabrics and the design of human engineering mechanics, thus greatly improving the performance and practicability of clothing. Compared with 100 years ago, this represents a kind of innovation. In my opinion, when researching and developing new products, both fabric quality and product itself should be accompanied by new ideas and contents.
 

Color is of course one thing. If we always provide gray or blue suits for men, how can they be interested?

Reporter: I heard that many celebrities are Zegna's senior customers. Do they enjoy discounts when buying?

Gildo: celebrities can enjoy extra discounts? I don't think so. We do not use these means to keep them.
 

If you ask me which celebrities are the most important customers of Zegna, I'm afraid I can't make out a list.
 

Reporter: do you want your children to inherit Zegna's career?
 

Gildo: I hope so. I have two sons, one in the US and the other three Americans who run their company successfully. Another son is still studying at University, but will come to Shanghai this summer vacation and practice in a law firm. Of course, if they have the will and capability in the future, I will let them take over my career.