History Of Chinese Clothing Development

China Clothes & Accessories The history has a long history. From the primitive society, Shang and Zhou dynasties, spring and autumn, Warring States, Qin and Han Dynasties, Wei, Jin, southern and Northern Dynasties, Sui and Tang Dynasties, Song Liaoxia, Jin and Yuan Dynasties, Ming and Qing Dynasties to modern times, they all attracted the world's attention with distinctive features.

Primitive social dress

In the Warring States period, Lu Shi Chun Qiu, Shi Ben and later Huainan Zi mentioned that Huang Di, Hu Cao or Bo Yu had created clothes. From the perspective of unearthed cultural relics, the origin of dress history can be traced back to the late Paleolithic period. In the ruins of the hillside cave in Zhoukoudian, Beijing (about 19 thousand years ago), 1 needles and 141 drilled stones, bones, shells and tooth ornaments were found. It was proved to have been able to make use of it. Hide A type of natural material sews simple clothes. The history of Chinese costume culture originated from this.

About 10 thousand years ago, it entered the Neolithic age. Spin Since the invention of technology and clothing materials, fabrics and fabrics have been artificially woven, the form of clothing has changed and functions have been improved. The cloak and cloak style cloak has become a typical dress and ornaments are becoming increasingly complex, which has a major impact on the formation of the dress system. After the emergence of textiles, the unidirectional garment has been developed into a stereotyped pattern. It has been widely used in quite a long time, in a very wide area and in many ethnic groups, basically replacing the clothing of old stone components and becoming the coarse form of human clothing. In addition to the general costume, Neolithic age also found crowns, boots and headdresses from some pottery relics. Ornaments 。

Shang and Zhou costumes

From the Shang Dynasty to the Western Zhou Dynasty, it was a period of gradual establishment of the Wacom clothing system with the distinction between the upper garment and the lower garment. The clothing materials of Shang Dynasty are mainly leather, leather, silk and hemp. Because of the development of textile technology, silk and linen fabrics play an important role. The Shang Dynasty has been able to fine weave very thin silk, jacquard geometry, brocade, and loom. The material is heavy and heavy.

In the Western Zhou Dynasty, the hierarchical system was gradually established, and the Zhou Dynasty set up "official service" and "internal service" as official posts to take charge of Royal costumes. According to the analysis of documents and unearthed relics, China's crown costume system was initially established in Xia and Shang Dynasties, and has been completely improved to Zhou Dai. In order to show the dignity and majesty of the royal princes, the crown should be ordered in different ceremonial occasions, and clothes should also be dressed in different forms, colors and patterns. From the human artifacts unearthed by Zhou Dai, though the decoration is different from the traditional ones, the clothes under the jacket have become clear and have laid the basic form of Chinese clothing.

Costumes of spring and Autumn period and Warring States Period

During the spring and Autumn period and the Warring States period, the great progress of weaving and embroidery technology made clothing materials more sophisticated and varied. The flower brocade of Xiangyi city in Henan, the ice Wan, Qi, embroidery and embroidery of Shandong Qilu are popular throughout the country. The spread of technology enables diverse and elegant clothing to stand out. During the spring and Autumn period and the Warring States period, not only was the Emperor himself dressed, but he was also decorated with pearls from the minister, and Jin Peiyu, the coat and the crown. The ancients wore jade and had a sense of dignity and personality. The upper class, whether male or female, should wear several or beautiful carved jade. The sword was a new weapon at that time. The nobility used to defend himself with courage and martial arts, and he also wore a sword with gold embedded jade. The waist belt is also popular with all kinds of hooks, competing with each other. The cap of men and women is more eye-catching and exquisite, with thin gauze like cicada, precious gold jade, and some shapes like a cup. Shoes are mostly made of small deer skin, or woven with silk thread and fine grass. Winter fur coat is very heavy, and the white fox fur is worth thousands of gold. Women love to use fur in the edge of cuffs and make fronts, and half of them have thin and beautiful gloves. In the spring and Autumn period and the Warring States period, the clothing, the breadth of the upper class, and the narrowness of the lower class had become quite different. Deep clothing has the intention of hiding the body. It is the casual clothes of the scholar bureaucrat class and the dress of the people. In 307 BC, King Zhao Wuling issued the Hu Han order for Qin and Han Dynasties, and launched Hu Fu riding and shooting to facilitate riding activities. In the spring and Autumn period and the Warring States period, the styles of clothes were unprecedentedly rich and varied, not only in deep clothes and Hu clothes. The musicians have long sleeves with long sleeves in their hooded hooks. Some people often wear horns or magpie crowns, wear small sleeves and long skirts, and wear down their arms. All these are related to colorful social life.

Costume in Qin and Han Dynasties

The clothing materials in this period were richer than those in the spring and Autumn period and the Warring States period. Especially in the Han Dynasty, with the establishment of the public service system, the dress rank rank was also stricter. The clothing of Qin and Han Dynasties is still splendid. There are many kinds of embroidered patterns, such as mountains, clouds, birds, animals or vines. There are all kinds of complicated geometric rhombus patterns and tapered patterns in woven brocade. In the three years of the Western Han Dynasty (138 BC) and Yuan hunting four years ago (119 BC), Zhang Qian was sent to the western region for two times, opening up the land passageway between China and the western countries. Thousands of silk were transported from the Wei to the Sui and Tang Dynasties. Thus, Chinese clothing culture spread to the world. Since Qin and Han, deep clothing has undergone some development and changes. From the top of the Eastern Han Dynasty, the robe of the cut was transferred to institutionalization. There was no difference between the Qin Dynasty and the Warring States period. Clothing for men and women in the Western Han Dynasty is still in the form of deep clothing. No matter single or cotton, most of them are made up of the top coat and the lower garment. The upper and lower sides still do not sew and do not connect. The coat has underwear and underwear, and its leader edge is exposed and become a stereotyped suit. Keep tight pants and keep the "big dress" style. The foot is a broken head. Waist strap. {page_break}

In Qin Dynasty, clothing was still dark. The Han Dynasty had a system of public service. There are more than 20 emperors and ministers' dresses, dresses, suits and so on. The grade difference on clothing is very obvious. The main manifestations are as follows: (1) on the basis of the old system, Guan Fu has developed into a basic mark for distinguishing grades.

Dress in Wei, Jin and Northern and Southern Dynasties

During the Wei and Jin Dynasties and the southern and Northern Dynasties, the rank costumes were transformed and the national costumes blended. The cap has been replaced by the scarf worn by literati, including folding horns, caltrop scarf, purple black silk scarf and white nylon towel. In the early Wei Dynasty, Cao Pi, the Emperor Wen Di, established the system of nine official positions. Since then, the system has been used in various dynasties until Yuan Ming. In the Jin Dynasty, the official dressing was used by the society, and the men in official positions wore small crowns, and the gauze cap was also called the painted gauze crown, which is a system of samurai warriors in the Han Dynasty.

In the northern and Southern Dynasties, the northern minorities entered the Central Plains, and the people lived in miscellaneous areas. Political, economic and cultural customs permeated each other, forming a situation of great integration. The pleats of northern ethnic shorts are becoming mainstream, and they can be worn by all men and women alike. Women's clothing is "frugal and abundant". From the end of the Eastern Jin Dynasty to the Qi and Liang dynasties, the dress was a dress suit, originally in the Han Dynasty. It is popular for a long time to wear a wad head and a high toothed shoe. On the other hand, the costume of ethnic minorities was influenced by Han Dynasty rules and etiquette and wore Han costume. In the eighteen years (494) of the Northern Wei Dynasty in the Taibei Dynasty, Luoyang moved to the capital, Wei Xiaowen carried out the policy of Hua Hua and changed the name of the Han Dynasty. Originally, the Xianbei ethnic group wore a collar and sleeves. This time, the reform of the old customs was called "Xiaowen" reform, which promoted the development of Chinese costume culture since the Qin and Han Dynasties.

Clothing in Sui and Tang Dynasties

During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, China was divided and unified, from war to stability, and economic and cultural prosperity. The color brocade is a silk fabric made of five colors and woven into various patterns. It is usually used as a fringe garment for half arms and collar. Special palace brocade, pattern has to pheasant, fight sheep, Xiang Feng, swim scale shape, chapter gorgeous. Embroidery, including five color embroidery and gold and silver thread embroidery. Printing and dyeing patterns, multicolor dyeing and monochromatic dyeing. In the Sui and Tang Dynasties, men wore their gowns, officials wore their gowns, and the people wore blouses. It didn't change much until the five generation. The official uniform of emperor Zi and Bai Guan uses colors to distinguish grades and uses patterns to represent official ranks. Women's clothing in Sui and Tang Dynasties is full of fashions. It often develops from the costumes of strange court women to the folk, and is followed by others, and is often influenced by the northwest ethnic group. In the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the most fashionable women's dress was a skirt, that is, a short jacket and long skirt, and the waist of the skirt was tied up with ribbons, almost under the armpit.

Women in the Sui and Tang Dynasties dress up well. The "half arm" spread from the court lasted for a long time, and later men wore them. At that time, a long scarf was also made, which was made of gauze and painted with silver flower or gold and silver powder. One end was fixed on the chest belt of the half arm, and then wrapped around the shoulder to wrap around the arms. Women's hair ornaments in the Tang Dynasty varied and had their proper names. Women's shoes are usually made of fancy shoes, mostly made of beautiful fabrics, colorful silk and leather. Tang people are good at integrating the northwest minority and the exotic culture such as Tianzhu and Persia. Tang Zhenguan was very popular in Kaiyuan during the new year.

Xia Jinyuan and costumes in Song Liao Dynasty

The Song Dynasty basically retained the style of Han nationality costumes. Liao, Xixia, Jin and Yuan Dynasty costumes had the characteristics of Qidan, dun Xiang, nzhen and Mongolia nationalities. The dress and adornment of different nationalities is exchanged and fused again.

In the Song Dynasty, there were three styles of official clothes, casual clothes and old clothes. In the Song Dynasty, the official costume fabric was mainly made of Luo. The government used five generations of old system to give the brocade and brocade material of the pro and noble ministers every year. It was divided into seven different colors, such as the Song Dynasty vulture, the ball pattern, the robe and so on. The color of the official uniform is followed by the Tang Dynasty. Three products are above purple, five products are above Zhu, seven products are above green, and nine products are above green. The official uniform is nearly the big sleeved robe of the late Tang Dynasty, but the first dress (CAP HAT) has been made of the flat wings, the name of the straight foot, the monarch and the official uniform. The official costume of the Song Dynasty followed the pea fish system in the Tang Dynasty. The officials who were eligible to wear purple and red uniforms had to wear "fish bags" in their waist. They contained fish made of gold, silver and copper to distinguish official products. The "square heart collar" is also the characteristic of the Royal suit, that is, the ornaments of the ornaments are covered by the royal clothes. In the Song Dynasty, casual clothes other than official uniforms and uniforms were mainly made of small sleeved collar shirts and soft headed wings with a hat band. They were still in Tang style, but at the foot they changed to casual shoes that were more convenient for daily life. The representative costumes of the Song Dynasty's old men were wide neckshirts and Dongpo towels with large sleeves. The robes are dark colored with the edge of the material to preserve the antiquity. The Dongpo towel is a square shaped high towel, which was created by Su Dongpo, a great writer. It is actually the revival of the ancient scarves, and the elderly gentry in the Ming Dynasty often used it.

Song Dynasty folk costume also has a variety of popular. Men are popular with heads and scarf, while women are popular in corolla and cover. Women's hairstyles and corolla were the focus of the pursuit of beauty at that time, and best reflected the changes in the costumes of the Song Dynasty. The women's Corolla in Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties has become more and more dangerous. In the Song Dynasty, the corolla developed and changed. {page_break}

Liao, Xixia, and Jin are the regimes established by ancient Chinese Qidan, dun Xiang and nzhen ethnic groups. Their costumes reflect the development track of national tradition in carrying out long-term cultural exchanges with the Han people. The women of the Dang Xiang nationality have many Lapel bearers, and the collar is beautifully embroidered. Khitan and Nvzhen people usually wear narrow sleeves, round neckties, knee Jersey, long boots, suitable for hunting at once. Women wear narrow sleeved collar gowns and long back backs, all of which are left, which are opposite to Han people.

The Liao and Jin regime took into account the reality of coexistence with the Han nationality, and set up a system of "Southern officials". Han people were ruled by Han nationality, and Han officials adopted the old system of Tang and song official uniform. Liao Dynasty distinguished official products from the silk official uniform on the landscape and bird and animal embroidery patterns, which affected the grade identification of the official costume in Ming and Qing Dynasties. Khitan and nu Zhen men's clothes are also used by Han people for their convenience in action.

In the first year of the year of Yan you (1314), the Yuan Dynasty took into consideration the system of ancient, modern, Mongolian and Han, and made unified provisions for the officials, the people and the people. The Chinese official uniform is still mostly Tang style round collar and head; Mongolian officials wear collar clothes and square corrugated caps; the middle and lower levels are easy to gallop, and the most fashionable waist lined plait lined jacket (round collar tight sleeve robe, wide hem, fold, braid line waist), Thelkasa Ko cap.

In the Yuan Dynasty, there were Nu Shi Jin Jin brocade, Hun Jin Zi Zi, Jin Duanzi, Dou Luo Jin, San Ling Luo, Da Ling, Xiao Lin, South Silk, north silk, wooden brocade, and brocade cloth. Various names. The Yuan Dynasty held more than 10 grand assemblies every year, when thousands of officials dressed in the same color, style and decorated with stone, gold, gold and jewellery were called high quality clothes. It was used as a dress for the Ming Dynasty.

Clothing in Ming and Qing Dynasties

In the Ming Dynasty, the traditional costume of Han nationality was the main body, and the Manchu costume was the main stream in the Qing Dynasty. The clothing of the two generation of upper and lower classes has obvious grades. The official service of the upper class is a symbol of power and has always been attached importance to by the ruling class. Since the Tang and Song Dynasties, dragon robes and yellow have been used exclusively by the royal family. Since the southern and Northern Dynasties, purple has been expensive. In the Ming Dynasty, because of the emperor's surname Zhu, Zhu was in the right color, and because of the "Analects of Confucius", there was "purple purple". The most distinctive feature is the expression of "grade". The complement is a piece of silk fabric about 40~50 centimeters square, with different patterns on the embroidery and stitching to the official uniform. The children of the civil servants use the birds, and the military officers use the animals to divide them into nine equal parts. In general, the round collar gowns are divided by the length of their clothes and the size of their sleeves. The official costume of Ming Dynasty was slightly different from that of song and Yuan Dynasties. The emperor wore black gauze and folded his hat, and his hat and wings stood up from behind. The officials dressed in the ceiling and painted the gauze, and often wore the gauze cap. The official wife and mother who are sealed up also have red big sleeved dress and various kinds of summer drapes. In addition, the upper class women have used high heels and have high and low bottom. The clothing or long, short, or shirt or skirt of ordinary people in the Ming Dynasty basically inherited the old tradition and was very rich in variety. In terms of clothing color, the common wives and daughters can only be dressed in purple, green, peach and other colors, so as not to mix up with the official uniform, and the working people only use brown. The hat of ordinary people, except for the old samples since the Tang and Song Dynasties, was made by Zhu Yuanzhang in two ways. One is the square barrel black paint gauze cap, which is called the square square flat napkin. One is made of six synthetic hemispherical small caps, called Liuhe unified cap. The latter is handed down, commonly known as the leather cap, which is made of black velvet, satin and so on.

In the Qing Dynasty, the shaving and easy clothes were carried out by violence, and men's clothing was unified according to Manchu custom. In the nine year (1652) of Shunzhi, the clothing and color regulations were promulgated, and the crown clothes of strong Han nationality were abolished. In the Ming Dynasty, men used to wear their bun, wear baggy clothes, wear stockings and shallow shoes. When they were in the morning, they had shaved hair and braid, and wore thin horseshoe cuff shirts, stockings and deep boots. But officials and people dress in accordance with the law.

The main gowns of Qing Dynasty were long gowns and Liriodendron. The official hat is quite different from that of the former dynasty. The officers and men above the military officers and the officers and men above the army wore similar weft caps, which resembles those with small caps. According to the warm hat and hat in winter and summer, they also look at the top and the top with different colors and materials, and drag a bunch of peacock feathers behind the hat. The plumes are called "flower Ling", the high Ling has "eyes" (the round spots on the feathers), and has a single eye, a pair of eyes, and three eyes. Emperors sometimes wear yellow gown to show their special favour. Influenced by other colors, the mandarin jacket became popular among officials and gentry, becoming a formal dress. Four, officials of the above five items are also hung with Chao Zhu, made of various precious jewels and fragrant wood, forming another characteristic of Qing Dynasty official uniform. The progress of silk spinning and dyeing and all kinds of handicrafts has created conditions for the rich variety of clothing in Qing Dynasty.

The development of women's clothing in Qing Dynasty was different from Han and Manchu. During the period of Kangxi and Yong Zheng, Han women retained the Ming style, fashionable sleeves and long skirts. After the Qianlong period, the clothes became more and more short, the cuffs were wider, and the clouds were added to the shoulders. Manchu women wear "flag", comb the flag bun (commonly known as two heads), wear "flower pot bottom" flag shoes. For the later generations, the so-called Qipao was mainly used in court and royal family for a long time. In the late Qing Dynasty, Qipao was also copied by the ladies in the Han nationality.

Modern costumes (since 1912)

The revolution of 1911 ended over 2000 years of feudal autocratic monarchy, and the Chinese costumes entered a new era.

Before that, Kang Youwei, a reformist in 1894 and foreign minister Wu Tingfang in the early years of Xuan Tong, wrote the reform of the system of service and service. Chinese students also changed their suits. With the strengthening of Sino foreign exchanges, the colorful clothing finally broke down the dress rank system. Traditional robes, sweaters, jackets, trousers and skirts are increasingly influenced by Western costumes and replaced by many new varieties and styles. Men's clothing. In the early years of the Republic of China, there was a situation in which the western style clothes and leather shoes matched the robe and the gown. Wearing a cap in a Chinese suit is considered the most solemn dress. Chinese tunic suits appeared before and after 20s and gradually spread in cities. In the vast rural areas, traditional trousers have been used, cloth shoes with felt hat or bamboo hat and feet stitched on their feet. Women's wear. The revolution of 1911 brought about a variety of things. Besides wearing pants, they also wore more clothes. Since 20s, women love cheongsam and cheongsam has become fashionable.

After the establishment of People's Republic of China, clothing is simple and practical. In the 50~70 years, the Chinese tunic suit gradually became the main body clothing for men. In addition, it was popular for military casual wear and people's clothing. The dress was influenced by the Soviet Union, and the dress was popular in the city. Besides, Lenin's costume was also popular. But in rural areas, jacket and trousers have always been the traditional costumes of most farmers. Since 1978, China has implemented the policy of reform and opening to the outside world, embodying the spirit of the times. The costumes with Chinese characteristics have mushroomed and sprung up.