Quality Identification Course For Western-Style Clothes -- Judging Quality From Inside To Outside

Your Man's suit It looks very beautiful in the window, but is it also very suitable for everyday life? More importantly, is it worth the money you spend? To answer these questions, you don't need a pair of immortal eyes. You only need to examine your suit carefully and ask several related questions.

　　
The most basic question: what is written on the label?
 
　　
What else can be, of course, is the name of the producer. This answer is wrong. Most labels only contain the names of companies that sell such suits. Only in very few cases can we find the real producer's name on the label. It is of great significance to buy western style clothes directly from manufacturers. First of all, you can know where your suit is made. In addition, you can avoid middlemen's heavy profits.

　　
    Fabric Where does it come from?

　　
We can often see several labels on the lining of suits. One label is the brand of suit, while the other label is often written. Fabric Origin. It may be the word "made in England", probably. Italy The name of a textile mill may also be the name of a cloth wholesaler. A long series of geographical names does not account for many problems, but the names of famous companies such as Loro Piana or Oscar Pohl (Scabal) can give you quality assurance.

　　
    Fabric What is it? fibre Weaving?

　　
When you see it in a store Rayon fabric When you make a suit, please put it back immediately. If you must buy a suit made of synthetic fabrics, then you might as well make a suit with waste plastic bags, because such clothes can at least have one advantage: it will not cost you a penny. If you don't want to do this, you can only choose to use it. Wool, cotton, linen, silk Or cashmere and other natural fibers made of western style clothes.

　　
People are right. Wool There is at least one requirement for Western-style clothes, that is, it must have the symbol of "pure new wool". This sign means that the fabric of the suit is woven with pure new wool cut from the live sheep, instead of the fibers made from regenerated lower fiber and worn clothes. We call the regenerated foot fiber and the worn-out clothes the "pure wool". This title is very similar to the "pure new wool" logo.

　　
Only by " Wool and cashmere "Or" wool and silk "logo can not explain why the price of the goods is higher, because the two signs do not disclose the proportion of the fiber. Generally speaking, the proportion of these precious fibers is very small. For example, in fact, these two signs probably say that only the fine stripe part of the fabric contains such fibers.

　　
What fiber is the lining made of?

　　
Synthetic fibers like nylon can never be used as liners unless you want to achieve weight loss by sweating. The best choice of lining is viscose fabric with good breathability.

　　
You must not be " Benberg (Bamberg) silk "This statement is puzzled. Although the lining is very nice, it has nothing to do with real silk. "Ben Berg silk" is a kind of fabric based on cellulose fiber. It just feels like silk fabric.

　　
In addition, people who attach importance to environmental protection are reluctant to view Berg's lining because their production will pollute the environment.

　　
The finished garments sold in shops will never be genuine. silk Silk for lining. If an exception is used, the label "pure silk" will be sewn on the clothes.

　　
Is the processing of western style clothes authentic?

　　
For various prices Man's suit A very important quality test is needed: the level of processing. This level can be clearly seen from trousers, because there is no lining, so nothing can hide the internal processing quality of trousers. You'd better take it first. Trouser legs Turn over, and then see if the trousers and hem are authentic.

　　
Comparatively sophisticated trousers It should be lined up and put to the position of the knee. The material is cotton or viscose, of course. It can not be nylon. The lining of the waist is also lined with lining, which is very elaborate. Trouser pockets are also very strong, made of cotton cloth. There is also a hasp that can be fastened from inside the waist of the trousers. To sum up, here is a rule: the more careful the inside of trousers is, the more meticulous the suit is, the better the quality of the suit is.

　　
If the trousers of a suit that have not yet been sold are not locked, it is nothing wrong with it. On the contrary, the more exquisite suits are not even locked, because the length of the trouser legs is almost determined according to the length of the buyers' legs. Since that is the case, why do we have to stitch and stitch the trouser legs in advance?

　　
Is the layout of the pattern reasonable?

　　
Those who work in interior decoration know that patterned patterns are time-consuming. However, if the wide stripe pattern on the doorframe is asymmetrical, then the effect of decoration will be very ugly. However, the stripes on the top of the stripes must be parallel to the pocket. The deviation is not allowed. The cover of the side pocket must also be in harmony with the pattern of the suit. If the pattern on the suit is latticed, the grill at the junction of the sleeve and the front chest must be done: the central line must be aligned in the horizontal direction. Only those companies that hand cut and sewn suits can really do this. Therefore, you have to remember this simple rule: the more harmonious the patterns are, the better the suit will be.

　　
Middle Lining material Is it pasted or sewn?

　　
In order to make the upper suit of the suit able to be shown on the wearer's chest and to make the collar collar able to be crisp, the linings made of linen must be added between the front fabric and the lining of the upper garment. For low price and medium price Western-style clothes, this intermediate liner is pasted on fabric. For the elegant suits of medium price and above, this
The intermediate lining is stitched on the fabric. Experts call this process "stitching". This process can make the front of the suit soft and soft, and can make the fabric have better air permeability and drapability.

　　
Once upon a time, the sewing work was done by the tailor, but now he had a sewing machine. The effect of machine stitching is as good as that of handwork. The only difference is that the stitching speed of machines is much faster than manual ones. It is easy to see if the middle liner of the suit is sewn up. If the fabric of the suit is fine and light, you can see the stitched stitches below the collar. The lining between the waist, buttocks, lining and fabric is independent of the third layer cloth, and you can touch it with your hands. In a word, you must keep your eyes open and touch with your hands.

　　
    Button What material is it made of?

　　
For elegant suits, its buttons are made of natural materials, such as ox horn, ivory fruit, or pearl mother. For low priced Western-style clothes, it is enough to use the imitation made of plastic. These imitations can be completely false. In spite of this, you can still tell the truth, because you can see fine ripples at the edges of genuine button buttons or Ivory Buttons.

　　
Is the buttonhole locked by hand?

　　
For high priced Western-style clothes, its buttonholes should be manually locked. Otherwise, such valuable clothes will not be perfect enough. How can people see that the buttonholes of Western-style clothes are not manually locked?

　　
First, imagine how the buttonhole of a suit is locked. For Western-style clothes bought from department stores, their buttonholes are usually locked by machine. The specific process is that the worker uses the machine to stitch the outline of the buttonholes with the fine stitches, then cut the buttonholes. If you take a close look at the cut section of the buttonhole, you can see that there are fibers scattered in it. These fibers expose the above process.

　　
For hand made suits, the process of locking their eyes is just the opposite: the tailor first uses a sharp tool to rush out of a hole, then cuts out the buttonhole, and finally locks the periphery of the buttonhole. You can see many stitches on the front side of the buttonhole. The finer the fabric, the more stitches.

　　
What other parts are hand made?

　　
One thing is beyond doubt: it is also time-consuming to make a suit with machine. Now, no one in the world can swallow the fabric in front, and then spit out the finished product. Man's suit The machine. But the production of cheap suits has greatly simplified the production process. They worked hard to make the production rationalized and avoided the loss of time.

　　
Of course, the process of hand-made Western-style clothes is different from 100 years ago. In spite of this, thousands of small manual work will continue to affect the speed of production. In addition, every staff member must concentrate on his work to avoid mistakes. It is not allowed to make mistakes in the last time of finishing the suit. For example: the front edge of the collar, the decorative stitches of the chest pocket and some outer joints. The more part of a suit is hand-made, the higher the price it will be.