Chinese Clothing And Culture

　　 China Costumes are like Chinese culture. Nation Generated by mutual penetration and influence. Since the Han and Tang Dynasties, especially after modern times, a large number of foreign cultures have been absorbed and melted. excellent Crystallization can only be transformed into a whole so-called Chinese dress culture with Han nationality as its main body.

Clothing is the result of human unique labor. It is not only the crystallization of material civilization, but also the implication of spiritual civilization. Through ignorance, barbarism and civilization, human society has been moving slowly for hundreds of thousands of years. After our ancestors closed their eyes with apes, the animals and leaves had been hovering around in the wind and rain for countless years. At last, they had difficulty in stepping into the threshold of the civilized era. They knew how to hide the body and warm the body and create a material civilization. However, the pursuit of beauty is human nature, and clothing is to people, such as gold in Buddha, its role is not only in covering up the body, but also beautifying the function. Almost from the day of the origin of clothing, people have deposited their life customs, aesthetic tastes, color preferences, and all kinds of cultural mentality and religious concepts into their costumes, thus forming the spiritual civilization connotation of clothing culture.

American anthropologist, Ying Fei, has a judgment: "a cultural project is the result of external infiltration, or the product of natural independent invention. This problem is very critical for those who focus on historical heritage, and it is also important for those who use comparative research methods. We can say for sure that in all cultures, more than ninety percent of the content comes first in the form of cultural infiltration. To understand the diverse styles, unique styles, bright colors and exquisite workmanship of Chinese costumes, the primary task is to have a clear understanding of the development path of the Chinese nation's vast and profound clothing culture, so that we can open up the foundation of Chinese costume culture through browsing.

The achievements of Archaeology and ancient anthropology after the founding of new China have traced the origin of dress culture back to the upper cave age of primitive society in the late Paleolithic age. In the distant past, humans began to hide and protect their bodies and keep warm by hunting hide. In summer, leaves are picked up to protect the sun from heat. This indicates that human beings have just emerged from the animal realm, and the prototype of primitive costumes has emerged. The clothing culture, which is characterized by sewing, is found in the remains of the cave man. The clothing is no longer a simple use of natural materials, but also evolved into a structure suited to the needs of human life, creating a precedent for the Chinese nation's dress culture.

The historical origin of Chinese clothing culture will be attributed to the Three Sovereigns and five emperors if it is sought from classical. As the Warring States people wrote Lu and the world, Huang Di used "Hu Cao to make clothes", or said: "Bo Yu, Huang Di made clothes." This era, compared with the remains of archaeological excavations, should be in the boom period of the matriarchal commune in primitive society five thousand or six thousand years ago. The objects unearthed in this period include spinning wheels, bone needles, pendants, and so on. Pottery painting on painted pottery unearthed in Gansu, Central Plains, has vividly and vividly depicted the shape of the upper part of the coat.

Yin Shang period

In the Shang Dynasty, the social productive forces were developing at a nominal level, and there were many measures for material civilization. The pictographs visible from Oracle Bone Inscriptions include words like mulberry, cocoon, silk and so on, which can prove the development of agriculture at that time. From the Shang Dynasty's weapons and bronze tomahawks, there were also the silk stripes and the fragments of silk fabrics. In the Shang Dynasty oracle bone inscriptions, we can see that Wang, Chen, mu, Nu, Yi and Wang Ling and so on. With the development of productivity and social division of labor, clothing and costumes began to brand the times, and became the tools of the ruling class "Zhao Ming Xi, Bian Wei Wei". The production relationship between the humble and the humble has prompted clothing to form its inherent system.

Zhou dynasty

Zhou Dai was the period when China's crown dress system was gradually improved. At this time, there were many written records about clothing. In the inscription of bronze ware, the records of costumes and "tiger crown practice lane" (Mao Gongding) and "female Qiu Bao Dian" (Zhou, Bo Cai Wengui) and so on. With the emergence of hierarchy, the distinction between the upper and lower classes, and all kinds of etiquette came into being. Reflected in the costumes, there are a dress, a costume, a military uniform, a mourning dress, and a wedding dress. These clothes adapted to the emperor and the common people, and even were used in the feudal society of two thousand years since the Shang and Zhou dynasties.

The spring and Autumn period and the Warring States Period

In the spring and Autumn period and the Warring States period, the system of weekly compliance was not complete. The rise of seven countries is independent. In addition to the western part of Qin, which is different from the other six countries, all the other six countries are all impressed by their hobbies and extravagance, and the prevailing contention of a hundred schools of thought. The three thousand guests in Chunshen Jun are all pearl guests. The guards of the Wei Palace are dressed in black military uniform; the red tape of the Confucianists, the long sleeves, the sleeves, the square shoes and so on. Clothing in the early Han Dynasty was not forbidden by the people. Although the Western Han Dynasty had the dress system of the eighth imperial edicts, it was not clear that most of them were dressed in seasons, such as Chun Qing, Xia Chi, Qiu Huang and winter soap. The daily dress of women in the Han Dynasty was jackets under skirts.

Wei Jin Southern and Northern Dynasties

Since the Wei, Jin and southern and Northern Dynasties, the northern nationalities have taken the costumes of the northern nationalities to this area because of the northern nationalities. At the same time, a large number of national costume culture also affected and assimilated the costumes of northern nationalities. The women's daily clothes are still worn above their shirts and skirts. Skirts and skirts can also be used as shirts in the tuxedo.

Sui and Tang Dynasties

Sui unified the whole country to redefine the Han dress system, but it is also difficult to get rid of its influence from north to South unification. Only by the establishment of the imperial empire in the Tang Dynasty did its long rule and its powerful national strength make its dress system inherit the past dynasties, and the way of the later generation crown clothing system, showing the same prosperity as its society. The Tang people have frequent contacts with all the nationalities in the northwest. There are many ethnic groups living in the mainland with the Tang people. Therefore, the costumes of Hu people in the Tang Dynasty are often seen in the cultural relics of this era. In the Sui and Tang Dynasties, women's daily costumes were shirts, jackets, and skirts. Skirts are most popular in red, followed by purple, yellow and green. Women's shoes in the Tang Dynasty tended to be toe shaped and similar to men. The court men serve the left and right sides with cotton boots, and the dancers also wear boots. Women's everyday clothes are numerous, such as coat, shirt, robe, waist towel, chest, skirt, trousers, knee pants, socks, boots and so on.

Song Dynasty

The vast land in the Northern Song Dynasty was reduced to the nobility's ruling territory, and the costume culture was interacted by its political and economic factors. According to the records of "Zi Fu Zhi Tong", "the custom of Ling'an prefecture has been in disorder for many decades, and it has been used as a costume." It can be seen that Kyoto is still in Northern Song Dynasty. In the Song Dynasty, most of the women's daily costumes were lined with jackets, shirts, backs, half arms, skirts and trousers. Its fabrics are Luo, yarn, brocade, silk and silk. In particular, the skirt is quite styled, and its texture is mostly in Luo gauze. The color of pomegranate flowers is red in its color. Pleated skirt is also a characteristic of the skirt at that time. There are six, eight, and twelve different skirts.

element

The Yuan Dynasty was the era when Mongolian entered the customs and ruled the Central Plains. Their costumes are both Chinese and Korean. When the Yuan Dynasty was first built, it was also necessary to shave the Mongolian costume in Beijing. The Mongolian crown is mainly made of headband and hat, and men wear earrings. But after Yuan Dade year. The service of the taxi men between the Mongolian and Han nationalities is different from their own. Women's clothing and riches often wear Martens and fur caps. In general, sheepskin and felt are used as clothing materials. The robe style was wide and long at that time, often used as a dress. At the end of the Yuan Dynasty, the aristocrats were dressed in Korea men's women's clothes, and clothes, boots and caps were popular in Korea style.

bright

After overthrowing the Yuan Dynasty and establishing the Daming Empire, Zhu Yuanzhang first banned Hu clothing, Hu language and Hu surname, and then edits in the name of Ming Tai Zu: his clothes are as clear as Tang Dynasty. In the Ming Dynasty, the imperial crown, the civilian and the costumes, and the dress of the ministers, their style, rank and dress etiquette were really complicated. Even daily clothing, there are clear rules, such as Chong Zhen years, the emperor ordered his prince, Prince easy to take green cloth cotton padded jacket, purple flower cloth, white cloth pants, blue cloth skirt, white cloth socks, green cloth shoes, wearing soap towel, dressed as a common people appearance appearance activities, but also confirmed the civilian hundred surname clothing. Women's clothing in the Ming Dynasty stipulates that folk women can only use purple and not embroidered with gold. The robe can only be made of purple green, peach pink and light coloured. The belt is made of blue silk. The style of buttons in the Ming Dynasty has already appeared. In the Ming Dynasty, women's shoes were still embroidered or decorated with beads. The palace man is stabbing the small gold flower's cloud like shoes.

clear

Chong de three years (AD 1638) had ordered: "effective other countries (Han nationality) wear clothes and bind their feet and redress their crimes." In the Qing Dynasty, they were forced to make shaving and easy clothes, and shaving and changing clothes according to the Manchu custom system. The clothing system is firmly committed to the old system, especially in men's clothing, maintaining the characteristics of the Manchus and continuing for a very long time. Although the Qing Dynasty abolished the Ming Dynasty costume, the complement of the official costume still adopted the Ming Dynasty sample system. The Golden Phoenix and gold Zhai, which are decorated with the name of a woman, still bear the former system. In Qing Dynasty, the difference of official uniform was mainly reflected in the top of the crown, the flowers and the birds and mammals. If the ranking can start from the emperor, there will be royal clan, imperial princes, princes, generals, princesses, Consort and so on. The names of the different surnames include the public, the waiting, the berth, the son, the male, the civilian and the martial arts, the officials of the nine commodities, the officials who are not in the flow, and the Jinshi, the people, the Gong Sheng, the supervisor, the outer Lang Chiu, and the farming farmer. There are also first-class, two, three, blue collar guards, courtiers and so on, their official uniforms are strictly different.

The clothing of men in Qing Dynasty was mainly made of long gown and mandarin jacket, which was most popular in late Kangxi's Yongzheng period. Women's clothing in the Qing Dynasty was full of Han costumes. Manchu women are mainly gowns, while Han women are still fashionable. In the middle of the Qing Dynasty, Manchu Han was followed by each other. In the later period, Manchu people followed the Han ethos quite well. Even the history books had a record of "flags changing to Han costume and palace robes cut into short clothes". The ethnics of Han nationality following the Manchu costume were popular among the dignitaries at this time. The styles and varieties of women's clothing are more and more diverse in the Qing Dynasty, such as vests, circles, skirts, coats, cloud shoulders, scarves, hand cages, breast patches, belts and glasses. Emerge in endlessly.

Modern

After entering the modern era in 1840, western culture invaded China's local culture. Many coastal cities, especially the metropolis such as Shanghai, were attracted to the western style because of the mixed Chinese and Western cultures. In the early days, there was little variation in clothing styles. The people still wore long gowns and Mandarin gowns as men's clothing, while women wore upper skirts and skirts. After that, business and commerce were flourishing. Foreign goods poured into the market, and the traditional costumes were changed. Foreign clothing materials are popular because of low price, time-consuming and time-consuming. The traditional handicrafts such as rolling, inserting, embedding and embroidering are gradually declining, and Western sewing methods are becoming popular. In particular, women's fashion, because sewing fine, style in line with the trend of the times, the impact is particularly great. The cheongsam, which was popular in 1920s, was born out of Manchu women's clothing in Qing Dynasty. It was stereotyped by Han women in the way of absorbing western style clothes in their dressing. When fashion is not a professional clothing research center, the changes in clothing styles are constantly changing through thousands of households under the influence of the times. From 1920s to the end of 40s, Chinese cheongsam has been popular for more than 20 years, with several changes in style, such as the length of the collar, the length of the sleeves and the height of the slit, which has made the cheongsam completely rid of the old fashions, changing the old appearance of the Chinese women's long bosom, and showing the female body posture and curve beauty fully, which is suitable for the prevailing fashion and has made great contributions to women's liberation. The cheongsam cheongsam was the most popular female student at that time. It was almost a form of Chinese new women in the late 20s. It is worth mentioning that at that time, as the leading fashion trend, modern girls, celebrities, movie stars, and so on, also promoted their development in the cheongsam style. Among them, such as socialite flower, Tang Ying and others, the earliest fashion company in Shanghai was the fashion company. Since 30s, cheongsam has become almost the standard garment of Chinese women. Cheongsam has even become a dress for social occasions and diplomatic activities. Later, cheongsam went abroad to imitate the dress of other women.