Reflection Of The Big Names In Milan Fashion Week

There are more serious questions waiting for Milan to reflect on and answer than the conjecture of what to wear next spring.

The resumption of the six day fashion week in Milan is no longer crowded and suffocating, and naturally it gives more time for fashion people to rush to the show.

Which side is more influential in the 1990s minimalism and the nostalgia holiday in 1970s?

Which of the Fendi loose contour and the Versace type compact line should be advocated?

From pure white blue to a table of color feast, which color will stand out?

However, there are more serious questions waiting for Milan to reflect on and answer than the conjecture of what to wear next spring.

Like the skin exposed by models on T, the problems of Milan's fashion industry have been revealed for the past two years. Although Italy is still famous for its manufacturing, more and more high-end clothing is now produced in places like China, India and Romania, which are far from the Apennines.

In 2009, the number of practitioners in the textile and clothing industry in Italy was 470 thousand, less than half of that in the mid 1990s.

At the same time, Milan's authority as fashion capital is also being threatened, not as talented as New York and London, nor by Paris's absolute control over the trend.

Where will the Italians go in the face of challenges?

Gucci and Prada, two giant arms in Milan, adopted two very different strategies in formulating design guidelines.

The former practice is straightforward and close to the people. Frida Giannini uses a limited but understandable fashion vocabulary to break up a series of main African elements into a number of highly recognizable and practical products, such as desert hunting jacket and jewel West assembly leg pants, gold fringed handbag and tribal style bead bead feather skirt.

A box of Berber national jewellery unintentionally discovered during the autumn and winter advertisements in Marrakech, Morocco, was brought back to Rome by Giannini from North Africa, and then became the creative starting point of this season. As always, anyway, Giannini always had a way to bypass Gucci's framework, and her composition was never biased, so it rarely came to her.

In the 2010 brand value report released by brand consultancy Interbrand not long ago, forty-fourth of Gucci ranked first among all Italy brands, while Prada was missing in the top 100.

Interbrand commentary on Gucci is: "after the outbreak of the financial crisis, the brand has increased its history of publicity, launched a series of products that stand the test of time, rather than one-time design."

Looking back at Miuccia Prada, after giving a dish of fruit color and monkey print, you can't help wondering if the smart woman is playing the monkey again. After all, she has not done this for the first time.

According to the introduction, the whole series of black pleated collar dress from the beginning of the package to the ending part is made of a cotton fabric made in Japan. The plain texture and the wide sleeved waist outline are inspired by the uniform (such as the sick clothes), and the active color and accessories are inspired by the musical.

While other fashion houses are using classic and history as bait to attract customers to make money again, Prada is permeated with South American orange and jungle green.

The stripes and banana skirts and muffin shoes and Mexico wide eaves hat appear to be frivolous and sensational: the naughty monkey pattern climbs up on both sides of the dress, and the fox fur scarf is also designed to be the shape of a monkey tail.

In Milan, Marni and Moschino have also contributed a number of interesting costumes (the former is the theme of the new sportswear with different material splicing, the latter performing a good play of cowboy meeting with Betty Boop). To their advantage, consumers will feel tired of classic one day, just as they are tired of big shoulder pads.

During the recession, the Italy fashion industry will finally have time to breathe. Why not take this opportunity to reflect on some inherent prejudices?

For example, is Fendi destined to be unacceptable in spring and summer, with its fur growing up?

Karl Lagerfeld's answer is "no".

The fashion house has long regarded the development of non fur fabrics as a major event. This season's thin paper like suede T-shirt and half skirt made of colored leather strips are all the fruits of many years of innovation.

On the contours, Lagerfeld seems to have a coat designed as a prototype, so that the waist waist skirt has charming lantern sleeves and long hem, so that the white shirt of a gowl will naturally be pformed into a one-piece dress, but the visual effect will never be autumn and winter.

How to interpret minimalism in twenty-first Century?

In Bottega Veneta, Tomas Maier tries to solve a Freud problem in fashion: "what clothes are women willing to wear everyday?"

His answer is a series of loose, knee and simple style Japanese dress, elastic linen with T-shirt's arbitrary characteristics, ingenious package of the body, but not fall into the overly sexy tradition.

Most designers have the risk of overplaying when they play volume games. Maier, who knows the balance well, is just a little bit tasted. The details of perforated suede trousers don't take any gimmicks.

If Fendi's cotton dress depicts the plain southern style of Italy, Veneta's gray and Western silk and brown silk flowing dress will have the gorgeous shine of the metropolis.

The fashionable balance finally tilted towards minimalism, which is undoubtedly good news for the MaxMara specializing in the outer garment.

With the opening of a 1990s style high collar double breasted windbreaker and the current trend of this season, beige silk shirt skirt, A half skirt and small suit are all low-key and practical aesthetics. The lightweight raincoats made of synthetic fabrics are easy to roll into a bunch and put into the bag to carry with them for rainy days in summer.

But the design team of MaxMara has not seen a good harvest. The sudden hallucinations of yellow, orange, purple and red indicate that this series has different experimental characteristics. The bras, the back skirts and the two legged wide legged trousers are bold, but whether they can finally enter the shop is still a mystery.

It does not mean that MaxMara can not seek change, but change does not always bring about ideal changes for Italy fashion. The struggles of Brioni and Salvatore Ferragamo in the past few quarters illustrate this point.

Fortunately, Brioni finally gave up the idea of becoming a fashionable soldier this season. The newly appointed Alessandro Dell 'Acqua is playing a conservative role, retaining the strong lines of its men's wear, and paying a lot of space to show the soft side of Brioni. Timely white lace and knee and half skirts coincide with the prevailing season.

Massimiliano Giornetti, which has been in Salvatore Ferragamo's men's wear department for ten years, is inspired by Alain Delon and Romy Schneider's movie "swimming pool" inspired by second women's wear series.

"But what I want is not nostalgia, but the unruly spirit of the free era."

His manifesto sounds heroic, but he is as low-key as Ferragamo's Lok shoes: camel coat with swimsuit, shirt with narrow leg trousers, men's evening dress and embroidered robe.

As if overnight, everyone has become a minimalist.

It is unnatural to say that designers are frying cold food in 1990s, but we do have higher requirements for fashion week than early autumn and holiday series.

Then, how to deal with Jil Sander, which has always been regarded as the spokesman of minimalism?

Raf Simons says the prevalence of minimalism makes him start to consider its opposite side, extremely complex, and then naturally think of the advanced customization.

But don't think that Simons's "custom clothes" will be accompanied by romantic pendant and exquisite embroidery. Far from it, his design is all related to profile and color. This is similar to Cristobal Balenciaga.

The blue and white striped vest skirt, the green jacket, the pink vest and the Yellow broad leg trousers, the purple blouse and the orange coloring long skirt, the bright and hi-tech color day suit are the theme of this series.

By matching the pure white T-shirt with the salon hostess's long skirt, by replacing the traditional taffeta with synthetic fabrics, Simons creatively used the casual language to compose the uniform melody, whether it is a fresh air for minimalism or for uniform.

The essential waist pleat of Dior and Balenciaga classic coat can be dismantled by Simons and can be pplanted to trousers. Digital prints and casual skirts remind people of American Oscar designers such as Oscar de la Renta and Carolina Herrera, but they are more pure and modern.

Since the most hopeless minimalists in Milan have decided to "oppose" and invest in the embrace of extreme complexity, is it not necessary for Roberto Cavalli, the king of extreme complexity, to persist in the road of prosperity?

At the special conference to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the fashion house, Cavalli spun 40 years of fringes and chiffon, but only to be very mean (light grey, light pink and light brown).

The silhouette is divided into two parts, one is weaving the long skirt of the ocean, the other is the laced vest and low waist trousers camp.

The new series of Versace reveals the brand's determination to take the road of becoming younger. Not only does it use the same model of young girls, the tailoring and color of clothing are more like the hands of Christopher Kane's cutting-edge designers. There is no Gianni and Donatella Versace siblings in the past. The evening dress is reduced to only three.

Less Cavalli of the crazy animal pattern, less Versace of the enchanting red carpet long skirt -- where is the gorgeous Italian style?

Earlier, the mystery of Tom Ford's return to dress became a hot topic in New York. Although the series of garments will be officially announced by the end of this year, the audience's flattering expression shows that people's yearning for gorgeous fashion is still the same as that, and that should be Milan's strong point.

However, somehow, in the six years since Ford left Milan, the air of Milan has changed. Designers have been using cruelty hard shells to arm themselves. However, Milan, especially in spring and summer, is characterized by softness, sunshine and intoxication on the top of the Gucci.

First of all, Dolce&Gabbana, who realized that the decision was wrong and resolutely lost his way, returned to the site of Sicily, and never left again, after leaving the unrealistic shoulder design and complex headwear.

In the spring and summer series, two designers sang hymns about the local handmade lace, fantasizing a bride to be married, and the delicate white lace tablecloths and sheets in her dowry were pformed into all kinds of swing skirts and doll skirts.

Let Peter Dundas become the successor of Ford for the time being!

He is building a new house in Greece. This season he will reach the Mediterranean Sea, from the archipelago of the archipelago to the South Asian subcontinent. The first few of his dresses are modeled on a traditional Greek shirt, with a sea blue whirlpool pattern on the white cloth beside the lotus leaves.

In addition to the use of water-soluble embroidery and British embroidered lace skirts, the winter and winter series are praised for their hard clippies: academics' suit jackets and low waist bell bottoms, leather seams and python hunting shirts.

The garments of this series have already traveled around the earth long before they were released.

Dundas shipped a batch of Jersey silk with Pucci classic pattern to India for repeated batik dyeing. Some of the fabrics were washed with natural sunlight.

Missoni nomads have yet to stop their trek. Her destination this season is Japan, Jamaica, Mexico, Vietnam and Africa.

Margherita Missoni, the third generation of the family's oldest daughter, once again gave her own creativity, weaving the slogan of strong sense of pop into her clothes. A jacket says "Give me your honey, baby", and the other skirt has the words "Coconut Rock" and "Dynamite".

Technology is still the most fascinating aspect of Italy fashion: in order to make the factory create a brand-new knitting technology, Angela Missoni is first three years, but in the end, patience is rewarded. This new weaving method enables Missoni to challenge the structure and contour that was never realized before, so that knitwear can control wrinkles while keeping light to near pparent.