New Season Trend Election

This time Paris Fashion Week The participation brand and the number of sessions reached a new high. In order to show buyers and latest fashion The editors were impressed that the major brands had to spend as little as 15 minutes trying their best to present their own fashion Claim. At this point, fashion is no different from politics - in order to win, sensationalism is also necessary.

　　
??? designer Is it similar to a politician? In every way, eight days Paris Fashion Week It has become more and more like a massive campaign. In the Grand Palace, the summer palace and the Louvre, designers and presidential candidates have recruited and publicized the same, just to let the voters composed of editors, buyers and bloggers cast a firm vote for them. Despite the variety of forms, the purpose of the press conference is the same as that of a political speech. Each designer has 15 minutes to state his or her fashion ideas - raising or lowering the skirt, venting or suppressing color, embracing minimalism or rejecting minimalism - and the winner's speech will be selected for the next season trend Indicators. Of course, it's easier to say than to do politics.

　　
Rock and roll school vs optimist

　　
"It's going to be boyish this season." On the first day of fashion week, Nicolas ghesquiere of Balenciaga announced backstage, "I want to show the masculine side of women." By putting supermodels, including Carolyn Murphy and Gisele Bundchen, on thick soled flat heeled shoes (a ruffian black Capris with a red and black chiffon jacket or Python vest reminiscent of London's "Teddy boy" style of the 1950s), ghesquiere bravely declared war on the feminism that ruled Milan. But does he still have the influence to reverse the trend?

　　
Three years ago, ghesquiere's "flower Samurai" series once plunged the whole Paris into a sea of flowers. However, as a self demanding designer, he seems to have more difficult challenges to deal with at this stage, such as developing new fabrics or digesting Balenciaga's database. In the process of constantly complicating the design, ghesquiere is in danger of being trapped in the ivory tower. The high street brands are far away from the high street because of the difficulty in copying the high-difficulty silhouette coats made of different materials designer The heart should be clear, more terrible than being copied is not to be copied at all.

　　
Fortunately, Balenciaga Balmain and Jean Paul Gaultier also released a punk themed series. The latter's performance of Betti ditto's clean-up and cat walk drew applause. As for clothing, 3D printed skirts and lace jeans, the impression left by the audience was more like a broken old record than an exciting new band.

　　
Balmain's question is relatively easy to explain. In just two years, Christophe descarnin's unchanging combination of leather and sloppy denim has begun to get boring. He didn't even want to improve the punk of the 1970s and copy the sex pistol band directly. "My studio is full of their posters." Said the designer. It's just that people have reason to ask for more for the most expensive ready-made clothes in the world today. A review on style.com suggests that readers make a leather safety pin jacket by DIY, "which will save you $25000.".

　　
The world weary rock and roll school seems to have failed in the uprising. What about the anti WTO optimist? The pink curtain on Nina Ricci's show may be a sign, and the pink cardigan that designer Peter copping wore at the curtain closing ceremony is another sign. But the real moment of pink's triumph came when Anna Wintour arrived at the rochas conference: her two strong bodyguards, one in a pink shirt and one in a tacit pink tie.

　　
Europe designer The bold use of color reflects a surprising optimism. After all, what color is more lively and cheerful than pink and fluorescent (from Christopher Kane in London to Miu Miu in Paris), thanks to Yves Saint Laurent this summer at the little palace In the retrospective exhibition, many designers draw on the famous combination of orange and pink, from Giles deacon and Cacharel to Christopher Kane and Marc Jacobs. Following Prada's humorous monkey print in Milan, Stella McCartney's dress was replaced by lovely oranges and lemons, which broke with the rational and practical style of the basic styles in autumn and winter.

　　
The other one is very good at it latest fashion Editors' favorite designers Dries Van Noten During the fashion week, the men's clothing store opened on the Seine River attracted a large number of fashion people to stop. In the gap between the show and the show, you can easily find that Jen Brill or Sarah mower accompany their male partners to shop. For those who love van noten's last women's collection of military pants and leopard scarves, the good news is that the new collection continues to be masculine, starting with a black, wide necked, long suit suede heeled shoe, with loose cotton wide legged pants, a cameo vest with a belt, a glittering knit top and a washed white coat. In his signature print straight skirt, the designer used the same transition dyeing method, from ice blue to pink, from light grey to apricot yellow, which, in his words, succeeded in "capturing light" in the fabric. This season, however, it's hard to get rid of these geeks in the collection's geek.

　　
Since one out of every three designers paid homage to Saint Laurent this season, it seems that Stefano Pilati is in a very good position. Facts have proved that his depiction of YSL women is the most authentic. Not only does he grasp the color accurately, but also his sultry sexuality is controlled by the lines of carnal desire and appropriate nudity. The white windbreaker is hollowed out under the armpit to reveal the Lined Black yarn shirt; the black one-piece suit is decorated with a beautiful bow on the back with gold hook edge; the orange shirt has a pair of full sleeves and transparent back, with a black knee length skirt; the blue country girl skirt has a sloping Ruffle at the waist and hem, inspired by Saint Laurent's Spanish series.

　　
The liberal vs the moderate conservative

　　
?? ? Dior In a joyous atmosphere, the models set off for Tahiti with retro Bangs Like Bettie Page and South Pacific Style prints. Short sleeve waistcoat, colorful tassel bag, Feather Necklace and woven chiffon skirt have integrated local handicraft elements on the basis of keeping Dior's signature style. However, you can't help feeling that John Galliano is just playing a role-playing game this time. From the Countess of the racecourse in autumn and winter to the sailor's girlfriend this season, the design has changed its own soup and dressing.

　　
Designers may face unexpected pressure from the top of the brand, perhaps from magazines. In Milan, Jil sander was the only seemingly unrestrained press conference. Raf Simons, the designer, said that the main message of colorful casual wear with customized silhouettes is "to seek freedom, to be a woman, to enjoy the freedom of feminization, to have a different kind of sexual attraction." In Paris, Phoebe Philo and Alber elbaz's new series give you a similar sense of freedom.

　　
Take C é line, for example, the new series of 32 sets of new clothes, which are intended to satisfy the fans' appetite. From white to denim at the beginning, the color is gradually released cautiously in local areas. Philo continues to carry forward the leisure sense of the early spring series. The sharp cutting of autumn and winter coats is replaced by various loose vests, T-shirts and long shirts. The special feature of several shirts is that they use the fabric originally used to produce silk scarves. The orange printing pattern surrounded by blue squares looks like the pattern from silk scarves.

　　
When it comes to women's needs, elbaz has a lot of reasons, but he never teaches his customers how to dress - he's always against it. It's a season of polarization, with kaleidoscope of colors on one side and Puritan white on the other. Elbaz offers as many choices as possible and makes every attempt as accurate as possible. As always, the seams almost disappear from the vision, and the silhouette of the skirt is close to the body and very dynamic. Whether it is a grey silk skirt with body shaping clothes or a cotton skirt with navy blue, it is both beautiful and practical. With no decoration (except leather belt), elbaz also abandoned the large volume used too frequently in the past two years, making the new Lanvin two-color skirt different from the previous two seasons.

　　
In the morning, Chanel's orchestra is still filled with a series of romantic people in the morning. Karl Lagerfeld seems to be saying, let young designers influence the trend, or define the ideal woman in their mind. Chanel would rather choose to adapt to the changes. Fortunately, the return of classic elements does not mean conservative. The lower skirt not only makes the proportion look old-fashioned, but also makes the ruffled sleeveless skirt have a kind of girl's innocence. Many fabrics use blinders. From a distance, a coat that looks like a classic tweed is actually woven out of pink ribbons, while a grey Knee Skirt with a round outline is decorated with countless silver threads. The ubiquitous feathers make soft suits and skirts more light. Sometimes they appear on the sleeves of black crepe coats, and sometimes turn into fleshy feather skirts. The models in them almost float when they walk.

　　
Like Chanel, Chlo é's charm is that she doesn't want to be fashionable. On the contrary, after abandoning the jeans and cloaks commonly used in the previous two seasons, Hannah MacGibbon's approachable flesh colored ballet skirt and low-heeled shoes deliberately keep a certain distance from the so-called fashion. The black dress of the black butterfly on the fly, and the black feather of the butterfly on the palm of the butterfly. As McQueen's right and left hands, Burton had the dexterity of McQueen's hands, and then she needed to prove whether she had the brains of the latter.

　　
According to Hussein Chalayan, maturity in design means "knowing what you want and being able to do it the best you can." It's just the right word to describe a dress that's asymmetrical. Chalayan himself will hold three solo exhibitions next year, so it's not surprising that he chose to polish some of his early designs this season. Several works named "floating body" - the curved silhouette of the suit vest and the circular cut shorts really have the feeling of floating on the body.

　　
In an earlier interview, Rick Owens also expressed his peace and maturity in his mind: after the years of singing at night, he admitted that he was used to going to bed early. The change in age was reflected in the opening of several lime white and black cotton dresses (with a rounded hem shirt or leather vest). Although the model's make-up was still alien with an antenna on her head, she had taken off all her gear and softened the surface of her dress.

　　
The "card suit" on the Maison Martin Margiela show at first glance is nothing more than an absurd and sensationalist work, but the valuable thing is that the young design team still keeps the imagination of flying wild after the founder leaves office, and has the courage to occasionally play a prank. In fact, Margiela's Square windbreaker and two-dimensional shirt may make sense. What's the significance of online fashion design? What's the significance of online fashion design?

　　
Hard performing audience vs sensational brand

　　
One afternoon in the middle of fashion week, the quiet and elegant wandom square was almost like a parking lot from the Ritz hotel suite where Gary Cooper charmed Audrey Hepburn in the movie "love at dusk".

　　
A group of women are marching on five inch heels to Giambattista Valli's press conference. Anna dello Russo, a model editor and street icon on Giles Deacon's Emanuel Ungaro debut a few hours ago, still had a Tymoshenko style braid on her show, and her appearance sent photographers waiting at the entrance to the show into a frenzy. Before the fashion show started, the off-site reality show had already begun: in front of it, there was Leigh lezark in an old-fashioned giant shoulder dress, then dello Russo in a custom-made suit for worth, and not far away, there were unknown boys who appeared in broad daylight in broad daylight - fashion was driving people crazy.

　　
In some series, it is not hard to find that designers are deliberately catering to the crazy performances in the audience. Givenchy's leopard print waistcoat and black tulle skirt will undoubtedly win amazing hits on JAK & Jil's blog. Riccardo tisci's superficial design satisfies a group of people's desire for fashion, but it can't satisfy critics including Cathy Horyn of the New York Times. Horyn criticizes tisci for not paying enough attention this season. With the double sleeves of French shirt as the starting point, Victor & Rolf is once again the stage of dramatic fashion. Although pink and Pink Blue Doll tops (with up to three or four cuffs on the sleeves) can easily evoke the dreadful image of maternity wear, the asymmetrical cut shirt skirt can help you compete in front of the camera.

　　
Why does the opening song of "American Idol" reverberate in the sky of Miu Miu's press conference? After a witty and relaxed Prada series, Miuccia Prada regained the style of intellectuals, pointed the spearhead at reality TV, and used naive five pointed stars, flowers and love patterns to satirize the people who are striving for fame and profit. The long sleeve dress with a thin waistband is rigid in form, and it is even more strange when it is matched with stars of Art Nouveau style and dark red paint. It is walking on the edge of vulgarity together with the leather suit of box cutting. Is this the secular taste in Prada's eyes?

　　
If it comes to good taste, Jean Paul Gaultier's helm è s farewell piece is absolutely synonymous with perfection, but at the end of Paris fashion week, deliberately bad taste obviously prevailed. Louis Vuitton and Susan Sontag mentioned the style of exaggeration and affectation mentioned in the "camp" notes by Marc Jacobs in the form of Chinese style. Cheongsam with high slits, handbags with tassels, lace fans with Monogram patterns and neon tassel skirts represent the world of Susi yellow in the new era, just like a dream of red and purple, containing a foreigner's conjecture of oriental aesthetics. Of course, you can say that panda costume is flattering to Chinese customers, but for Marc Jacobs, what happened last season doesn't matter, because the Vuitton girl in the next season will always be a different look.