The Evolution Of Chinese Cheongsam I: The Origin Of Cheongsam

Preface: Qipao as Gowns A member of a large family whose origin is believed to be traced back to the spring and Autumn period and the Warring States period.

Shenyi has been valued by people since the spring and Autumn period and the Warring States period to the Han Dynasty. The upper and lower garments are quite different from the upper and lower garments; Robe Later, the robes were gradually accepted as a stable clothing style, which went hand in hand with the clothing system of the upper and lower garments. Since the Han Dynasty, gowns were used in court clothes. At the beginning, most of them were cross necked and straight. The body of the robe was broad, the length of the garment was as long as it was attached, and the sleeves were relatively wide. It was small at the cuff and circular at the elbow. It was called "Mei" or "niuhu" in ancient times. The style of robes has changed from generation to generation. The deep robes of Han Dynasty, round necked robes of Tang Dynasty and straight body of Ming Dynasty are typical wide bodied gowns. Most of the wearers are intellectuals and ruling class, which has become a fashion over time. Therefore, robes and clothes represent a kind of leisure life of the upper class and cultural people who are not engaged in production. A broad gown on a garment. It has gradually become a symbol of clothing civilization in the Central Plains.

The gowns popular in ethnic minority areas or nomadic people are generally tight and narrow, which is conducive to riding and shooting or other fierce activities. The left lapel and narrow sleeve are used in this type of dress, and the body is more suitable. In history, the Han people have adopted this kind of narrow fitting robe many times. The Hu suit riding and shooting promoted by King Wuling of Zhao is a typical example. Hufu was also popular in the Tang Dynasty. In the Kaiyuan and Tianbao years of the Tang Dynasty, Hufu became popular with Huzhuang, Huqi and Huyue. It can be regarded as a popular example of foreign culture in a large area, and it belongs to the "imported products" of Chang'an Street in those years. In the period of Liao Dynasty, Bo Dynasty and Yuan Dynasty, they all played the leading role in the Qing Dynasty. Since the Qing Dynasty lasted for the longest time and was relatively stable, so robes and clothes can be regarded as Typical clothing 。

In 164ad, the capital of Beijing was unified. With the initial stability of the regime, the government began to implement the compulsory reform of the service system, which set off a huge wave of pheasant hair changing clothes. The strict laws and decrees are vital. There is a saying that "keep your head but not your hair, keep your hair but not your head". So far, almost all the traditional crown clothes are forbidden to wear. It is said that the clothing shape of the thousand year old upper and lower garment is only retained in the dress of Han women at home. In celebration occasions, both men and women should wear robes. There are many kinds of gowns, including court robes, dragon robes, python robes, and regular robes. Qipao (Qipao), which is not used to refer to the Qipao worn by the people of the eight dynasties, has nothing to do with the "Qipao" or "Qipao" in general. The rulers of the Qing Dynasty emphasized Manchu language riding and shooting, trying to maintain their inherent life customs and dress style. On the one hand, Manchu clothing was used to assimilate the Han people. At the same time, Manchu and Mongolian women were forbidden to imitate the Han dress. From the prohibitions repeatedly issued during the reign of Dingzhi and Jiaqing, Manchu women were forbidden to imitate Han women Women's wear It can be seen from the prosperity of the ethos. In the late Qing Dynasty, some Han women imitated the Manchu costume. The combination of Manchu and Han women's clothing style made the difference between the two sides decrease day by day.

In the late Qing Dynasty, the long robe worn by flag women was wide and broad, with straight and strong modeling lines, and the clothes were as long as ankles. "Yuanbao collar" is widely used. The collar is high enough to cover the cheek and touch the ear. The body of the robe is embroidered with various patterns. The collar, sleeves, lapels and bases have multiple wide hems. In the middle of the century, some of them were filled with lace and even could not be identified with the whole garment. The decoration of flag women's robes and clothes was so complicated that it reached the peak. At this time, it was difficult for the imperial court to succeed. Imperialist ships and guns broke through the closed door of the Qing Dynasty. In order to save the country from danger, the Westernization School of the Qing Dynasty put forward the national salvation strategy of "middle school as the body, Western learning for use", and sent a large number of foreign students to study abroad, and the army also changed into a new army. Among the Chinese students and soldiers, western style students' Calisthenics and Western military uniforms and helmets were the first to appear. The input of dress provides another frame of reference for judging beauty, which directly affects the change of social dress concept. In the future, cheongsam has evolved into a new style that integrates China and the west, and its changes under the influence of the west can be said to be the beginning.

In 1911, the storm of the 1911 Revolution rose abruptly and overthrew the last feudal dynasty in Chinese history Western costume The popularization in China has cleared away the political obstacles, and at the same time, it has put aside the traditional and harsh ethics and the concept of weathering, and lifted the various shackles of the strict hierarchy of the clothing system. The free transformation of clothing towards civilian and internationalization has become a natural result, and the heavy burden of traditional Chinese dress has been removed. Due to the demise of Manchu regime, there were few people wearing cheongsam at this time. Western and Chinese costumes are bustling and complicated. The old style Qipao was abandoned, while the new style was developed in the chaotic times.

At this time, the fashion center had already moved from Su and yang to Shanghai. Shanghai, which is open to the outside world, has become a luxurious and prosperous place. Shanghai is also an important town for women to liberate. Missionaries, businessmen and revolutionaries set up women's schools, which set off a wave of women's rights movement, seeking to liberate the social atmosphere, and to get rid of the stereotypes and bad habits in dress up. Clothing decoration swept the trend of the Qing Dynasty, tended to be simple, elegant color, pay attention to reflect the natural beauty of women. Qipao was originally in the form of a vest, which was long enough to the back of the foot and was added to the short jacket. After changing the long vest into a sleeve style, it became the rudiment of the new cheongsam. It is said that Shanghai female students, who were the first in fashion, were the initiator of the popularity of cheongsam. At that time, female students, as representatives of intellectual women, became the ideal image of the society. They were the symbol of civilization, the forerunner of fashion, and even the social celebrities, brothel women and other fashionable figures all dressed up as female students. The 30's and 40's are the heyday of cheongsam, and its basic outline has reached maturity. The new cheongsam, which came into being after the revolution of 1911 and began to be popular during the northern expedition, is different from the long robes of the flag women. In the later 30's, the method of fitting the body will be introduced in detail. Although Qipao was born out of Qi Qing Women's robes, however, are different from the old ones. They have become the standard clothing of modern Chinese women, which combines Chinese and Western characteristics.

(to be continued)