The Evolution History Of Chinese Cheongsam Three: The Robe And Cheongsam Of The Banners

Cheongsam is not a fixed form, but has a process of change and development.

Though the cheongsam is considered to be the banners of the banners or the banners of the flag, it seems that there is no big mistake, but it is unavoidable to have a sense of justice.

The connotation of cheongsam is more than that of the banners.

Much richer.

In the Qing Dynasty, the banners of the banners included men's robes and female robes, but the cheongsam only meant.

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In the Republic of China, even if the gowns of men wore the remains of the Qing Dynasty, they were not considered cheongsam.

In the robes of the banners, there is a robe of crowns and robes and a daily robe. The crown robes are made of dragon robes, python robes, regular robes and robes.

In general, men's robes are still in the early stage, and Shun Zhi does not shorten to the knees, and soon lengthen to the ankle.

In the middle and later stages, the style is loose, and the sleeves are more than a foot long.

After the Sino Japanese War of 1894 and 1896, the styles of men's robes also became more and more tight and covered with feet.

Wearing such a gown, even crouching and squatting will break the clothes.

"JINGWAH Zhi Zhi Ci" has the description of "the new clothes have exaggerated roots, extremely long and extremely narrow, too difficult to talk about, foreigners are dressed to dress well, and several can not be squatted". This reflects the fashion trend of men's robes in the late Qing Dynasty.

In the Qing Dynasty, there was little difference between the robe of the female flag and the male gown, mainly on the difference of dress patterns.

The development of the gown of the flag girl can be divided into two stages.

In the first stage, the robe of the flag girl is thin and tight, and the cuffs are small and the decoration is simple. The reason is that the banners are heavy riding and shooting, and their robes should be adapted to the way of life.

In the second stage, the robe of the flag girl became very fat, but the decoration was extremely thick. This was mainly due to the fact that the world was flat, the banners lived in peace and stability and tended to be luxurious.

In a broad sense, Qipao has gone through three periods of development in the Qing Dynasty, namely the robe of the flag girl, the new cheongsam in the Republic of China and the cheongsam of contemporary fashion, and the new cheongsam in the Republic of China was the most typical and most important.

In a narrow sense, cheongsam is the cheongsam of the Republic of China. Of course, it can also include cheongsam, which basically maintains the characteristics of the cheongsam of the Republic of China after the Republic of China.

Although the name of cheongsam was seen in the literature of Qing Dynasty, it was widely used in the Republic of China.

The cheongsam in the Republic of China also went through the classic basic (style) and

The two stage.

The first stage is based on the traditional straight body plane cutting, and it begins to introduce western technology such as opening the provincial road to make the cheongsam more suitable.

The second stage brings more western style methods, such as sleeves, shoulder pads and zippers.

There are four main differences between the gowns of the Qing Dynasty flag and the new cheongsam of the Republic of China.

The first is that the robe of the flag girl does not reveal the form, especially in the later period, wide and straight.

This is related to the ideology of the two periods.

Ancient Chinese clothing, including the banners of the Qing Dynasty, emphasized text but ignored people, emphasizing clothing patterns instead of human body curves.

China has always disapproved of women who are too touted, and has a very implicit attitude towards the human body.

Ancient beauty, face is the main, shoulders, chest, waist, narrow buttocks, thin beauty under the layers of clothes.

Compared with the Central Plains costumes of the past dynasties, the banners of the banners were even fit and fit, but they only slender the body of the flag girls, but still hid their bodies.

The cheongsam of the Republic of China was greatly influenced by the western thought. Western clothing fully displayed or even exaggerated the lines of human body, often resorting to extreme methods.

Here, what matters is human beings. The role of cheongsam is nothing more than drying the clouds and laying the moon faithfully to outline the outline of human body.

Second, the gown of the flag girl wears trousers and sometimes the embroidered trouser legs. In the robe of the Republic of China, she wears shorts or briefs, stockings and slits.

Bare legs and bare legs under slacks mean the alternation of two old and new humanistic concepts.

The cheongsam of the Republic of China is sometimes very high in its slits. In 1934, it was nearly buttocks, and the waist was cut too narrow. When walking, the legs were visible, giving people a lively and fainting confusion. It was evident that the restraint of women's behavior had been greatly relaxed, and the cultural environment of physical and mental development had been improved.

Third is the banner of the robe fabric thick, jacquard, decorative tedious; the cheongsam fabric is lighter, more printed, installed.

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The excessive pursuit of decorative details reflects the ill judged level of feudal rulers at the end of Qing Dynasty.

In the Qing Dynasty, most of the fabric patterns were sketchmaking techniques, such as dragon and lion shrew animals, Phoenix cranes, birds, plum blossoms, bamboo flowers and chrysanthemums, as well as eight treasures, eight immortals, and Fukulu Zuki.

In addition, the banners of the banners used a lot of lace.

The initial role of lace is to increase the fastness of clothes and make clothes durable. Therefore, lace is often placed in fragile parts, such as necklines, cuffs, skirts and hem, and then becomes an ornament.

In Qing Dynasty, the decorative function of lace instead of its practical function.

The gowns of the flag girls were mostly set in beauty, and reached the summit during Xianfeng and Tongzhi. Sometimes the whole dress was decorated with lace, and almost no visible material was seen.

At the end of the Qing Dynasty, foreign fabrics began to flow into the Chinese market. During the period of the Republic of China, the momentum of the textile industry had been quite large. In 30 or 40 years, the textile and dyeing machinery abroad had been widely attracted, and jacquard fabrics were gradually losing the market, and printed cotton, silk and ramie fabrics were widely used.

In the pattern of fabrics, the fabric has absorbed more European sketching techniques and light and shadow processing methods.

Striped fabrics and geometric woven fabrics are also very popular among Chinese.

In the Republic of China, Qipao went to the public to simplify, the collar was short, the robe was short, the sleeves were cut, and the decoration was rolled and rolled away.

The fashion of Shang Jian was brought back by the students of Liuyang, and the improvement of profile also contributed to the omission of decoration such as roll and roll.

The fourth difference is that the banners' hierarchy is clear and the system is numerous. The cheongsam of the Republic of China has already embarked on the road of populace. As a sign of grade identity, it has gradually weakened and has become a part of displaying the level of personal consumption and aesthetic taste.

The rules and regulations of the dress in Qing Dynasty are more than that of any previous generation. There are strict differences between the color and texture of the official crown clothing, the chest supplement, the bead level, the number of eye and the top material.

In addition, there are other clothing prohibitions, such as: five dragons, satin, and so on. Officials and people are not allowed to take it. If there is a special gift, they should choose to wear a claw to wear. Soldiers and people must not wear Python satin, satin, brocade, gold, satin, mink, lynx and so on. Eight officials below are not allowed to wear yellow, fragrant, beige and autumn fragrant colors.

The living environment of qiongpao in the Republic of China was relatively loose. At that time, the feudal rule was completely overthrown, and Chinese clothing was completely rid of the whole.

The shackles of modern capitalism, the commercial civilization, and the harsh customs of the modern economy began to be washed away and cleaned up. The adornment of women showed an alluring age. This old field with grade marks and no bounds should be gradually reduced to a general scale to represent consumer sentiment and measure its consumption ability.

Wearing cheongsam becomes a way to manifest individuality. The styles, colors and patterns of the cheongsam in the Republic of China have become wonderful and changing.

Cheongsam is a product of the combination of Chinese and Western cultures. Although it was born in the Qing Dynasty, the robe of the banners in the Qing Dynasty has already had an independent style and flavor which is quite different from the gown of the banners.

Clothing is a reflection of the times.

The cheongsam represents two entirely different ages, one is slow and closed, the other is restless.

Maybe that's how the difference is formed.

(to be continued)