Fashion Designer Sewed Dreams And Interpreted Passion.

Editor's note: the famous dress in Europe for 20 years in the interview Designer Wang Zheng describes such an excellent printer: "the printer also needs talent, Reiki and savvy. Good aesthetic quality and skilled and strong plate making technology can create a beautiful and comfortable version. A good print designer should be able to communicate well with the designer so as to accurately and perfectly reflect the designer's intention.

It also represents a lot of designers' tacit agreement with themselves for a long time. Printer Evaluation. Usually, the designer's divergent thinking is very unconstrained. The strong logic thinking of the printer is rigorous and conservative. The combination of the two can design good products. Designers also need the idea of a print master to improve their work. After interviews with some designers and print writers, it was found that both sides agreed that the two sides agreed. There is no concept of "obedience" in the cooperation between designers and print players. The key is to look at the outcome of the product, and it is not obedience or disobedience to explain it well and badly. The two is originally a cooperative relationship. The only difference between designers and print masters is the problem of upstream and downstream links.

"Sometimes the experienced edition master may be higher than the designer, and this is often the case in foreign countries, but under the circumstances of the press conference, the version Master will have to step back. Give designers more space. " A senior typing engineer said. People often call successful designers. And the title of "tailor" was left to the printer. However, Mr. Pierre Cardin can call himself a tailor. So it's no harm for a printer to be a tailor who knows how to design.

It is easy to explain clearly the differences between designer and designer in the design of dialogue and cooperation, but in the actual business operation and production process, the two employees are often infiltrated each other.

A good designer must be able to Edition type There is a great deal of attainments, because the type of print directly affects the appearance of garments. Similarly, an excellent printer must have his own original ideas in the field of design. A good edition master must have experience, and experience does not necessarily become an excellent edition teacher. There is a big difference between the print design and the style design. The style design is an open thinking, trying to express the designer's unique thought, and the version design can accurately design the idea to every millimeter, which is the beauty described by the data. For the same part of the data, some teachers will choose 2, and some will choose 3. One of them is definitely to make the clothes more beautiful and more comfortable.

For example, tight fitting effect, generally think that the addition of 4cm is the most basic breathing volume, but this is not absolute, the body is fat muscle body, is elastic, one or two mm up and down will not affect breathing, and will have a great impact on the shape. Similarly, such as the shoulder and sleeve coordination, the high cuff mountain will be more tight, but too high will be uncomfortable, so there must be a limit value. The effect that cannot be achieved should be made up by other ways. The two can hardly see in appearance, but the wearer is the most experienced. This is the printer. inspiration 。

The printer is not competent enough to have a set of techniques.

"Technology is something we all will do," says Hou, director of Technology Department of Taiping bird dress. "How to improve the accuracy and inclusiveness of the edition is a measure of whether a printer is excellent." To grasp accuracy and inclusiveness is a comprehensive examination of the aesthetic spirit of a printer. From this point of view, the template is not a simple combination of lines, but also needs to be designed. In this way, a printer must have the attributes of a designer to be competent. Therefore, it is not too bad for a designer to be a tailor. However, after all, they are not designers, and excellent designers will have unique views on the edition. 2003 on China Fashion Week, when we interview models, we will ask them about their experience and evaluation of the costumes. fashion The evaluation of design, but when the publication of Wang Yutao, chief designer of the park, ended, the model's comment was "his clothes are not dazzling, but they are very comfortable to wear."

In the later interview, we knew that the clothing version of Wang Yutao's conference was all done by himself. As a designer, it is certainly right to complete the version design in person. Design The most perfect expression of thought.

For the "comfort", designer Wang Yutao himself explained this: first, I have experience in the edition type. Second, I am spiritual in the version.

As a designer, Wang Yutao is not taboo. Tailor "Because in his opinion, it's also necessary for editions and designs to be inspired. Wang Yutao came into contact with clothes at the age of 15, and in the next decade he has not given up the study of the edition. He said: "without enough experience, it is impossible to become an excellent edition teacher. The experience of printing is accumulated in one practice. Typing is the process of constantly demonstrating theory. Like the teacher says "1+2=3", we can find many ways to get the 3 result through continuous drills. After trying these, we think 1+2 is the most convenient. So the 1+2 we use at this time is absolutely different from the original 1+2. "

Wang Yutao said. Plate making The technical theory, I am not different from everyone, but give me a pair of scissors, a piece of fabric, my clothes will be more comfortable than others, I think it is because I also have spiritual in this respect.

Why do high paid print masters earn high salaries?

In our impression, the reputation of the printer is not loud enough, and the performance is difficult to measure. Whether it is in the enterprise or not, it will be similar to their reputation. However, when investigating the treatment of the printer, the reporters found that the importance of the printer has been correctly treated by the business operators, which can be reflected in their wages.

According to You Hongyan, general manager of Beijing you Beidou clothing company, in Beijing, the general salary of the typing master is around 3000 yuan, while the technical director can get 4000~5000 yuan, and the technical director of a larger brand can get 6000~8000 yuan.

According to our incomplete statistical survey, in the developed areas of clothing industry, the salary of general practitioners who have a little experience will not be less than 3000 yuan, and the monthly salary of the technical director is not unusual. In the central area of Chengdu, Nanjing and other non garment industries, some skilled printer can also get 3000~4000 yuan. In Guangdong, there is also a printer who also participates in the benefit Commission.

At the beginning of the entry, the salary of the printer is slightly lower than that of the designer. However, the salary of the printer will be directly proportional to the time and experience at a certain stage. The older the designer, the older the designer is, the more valuable it is. The design needs creativity and inspiration. For the designer, to some extent, young people may be more profitable. In the recruitment of enterprises, it is often seen that the age requirement for the designer is not more than 35 years old. Although there are few age restrictions for print players, a few years' experience is one of the most basic requirements.

In a recent questionnaire survey conducted by the newspaper and the Hong Kong Polytech University, a question was asked: how much experience do you think companies will be interested in in the past 30 years? Most chose for 4-5 years. It seems that the printer himself is very clear about the significance of experience accumulation to his career.

Plate making is a highly technical work, accommodating a lot of trivial and complicated details. It requires rich experience and flexibility for understanding human body structure and precise size and location. Flexible processing is supported by skillful technology and rich experience. Ni Zhibin, technical director of Beijing's Tower clothing company, gives an example: for example, the shoulder length design of men's shoulders is 45. While neutral men's clothing emphasizes more beauty, its shoulder shoulder design is 35. In that case, it is time to adjust the shoulder slope to achieve the best combination of beauty and comfort. It is time to test the teacher's standard. At this time, the experience of helping the plate master is very important. For example, the first ski suit we mentioned in the past has reached as many as 78 pieces, and the segmentation of these 78 pieces should follow the feeling of human muscle. The plate produced should be visually beautiful, smooth in line and meet the needs of human movement.

Therefore, experience is an important weight to weigh the teachers. The general manager of Shang Wei Hai, a Beijing garment company, said with a smile: "the print master is like an old Chinese medicine doctor. The older he gets, the more valuable he is." However, please note that this "old" does not refer to age, but refers to real and genuine experience accumulation. Of course, it does not refer to the length of the year, but refers to the professional skills and accomplishments.

Mr. Hou, technical director of Ningbo Taiping bird group dress department, is a highly paid version teacher who is only 32 years old.

What is the meaning of high salary?

The monthly salary of the division master ranged from 1500 yuan to 10000 yuan, and the fact that an enterprise in Guangdong unexpectedly offered the designer a high salary of 400 thousand a year can not help but cause us to ponder: what is the value of the high salary division? In 2001, Mr. Shang Fuhai, who got the annual salary of 80 thousand yuan, was promoted to the technical director in the half month after entering the company, because he carried out bold innovation in the traditional tennis skirt version of Li Ning Co, and added a chest volume (that is, chest Province) in the traditional tennis skirt version which emphasized on comfort, which made the tennis skirt more self-cultivation and stereoscopic, highlighting the female curve. At that time, the formulation was immediately opposed by everyone, because in the concept of everyone, sportswear was based on comfort, but when we saw that the tennis skirt with increased chest size was more beautiful and beautiful, it did not affect its comfort at all.

The lack of advanced talent in China's garment and plate making is not easy for enterprises to find a good version of the company. Customer positioning and clothing styles of different brands are different. Therefore, the requirements for plate making are also different from each other. The edition master needs to have a good understanding of the brand personality characteristics of an enterprise, so that it can serve the business and serve the brand.

Mr. Hou, the technical director of Ningbo Taiping bird group's dress department, has been in the 7 or 8 years of Taiping bird's work. At present, the annual salary is close to 200 thousand. He has already been involved in the comprehensive operation of the brand as the middle level of the company. Hou said that the vast majority of brands and enterprises are also designers and marketing directors who are more involved in company planning. As a printer, they participate in brand operation from a technical point of view. Some enterprises may give the printer a good salary level, but they will not let him participate in the planning more.

Hou believes that the printer should also be more involved in the operation and operation of enterprises. Printer The work itself is closely related to the product and is much more involved. Knowing more about the company will be more flexible in specific work. Moreover, participating in the process is also a learning process, which is conducive to the improvement of the overall quality, and more professional opinions are good for the development of the company. Such professional advice is very important. At present, the competition among the major brands has already included the version competition. After the consumers have seen and dressed, they decide that the selling rate of a garment is the edition of the garment. Consumers will not pay for clothes that are not comfortable in beautiful clothes.

Hou thought that if he paid his salary from the perspective of a Publishing Master, he would be very high, but it would not be surprising if he considered the scope of his responsibility. The higher comprehensive quality and the stronger comprehensive ability are one of the important reasons for high salary teachers.

This is why some people have stayed in the 10 years, 20 years, and even for a lifetime. Garment cutting At the level, the salary is not high, but some people can be a senior plate maker through several years of hard work to earn a high salary. In this sense, high salaries are not equal to old age.

(to be continued)