Skills Of Special Pants In Plate Design

For special body type

There are many ways to deal with it, and also more flexible. There are three kinds of methods commonly used: direct drafting, basic pattern folding and stereoscopic cutting.

For the treatment of special type clothing, two or several methods can be used at the same time. It should be treated according to the specific conditions to achieve better effect.

Next, let's take the example of the folding of the base pattern paper as an example to study the trousers with special shapes.

Skills in handling.

Backward tilting body type

The body shape is characterized by a straight forward abdomen, a relatively smooth buttocks and a backward heel.

Appearance after dressing

The disadvantage is that the trousers are short before the crotch is long, and the abdomen is slightly tight.

The way to deal with the problem is (1) to cut the front crotch line AB and pull up the a point upward, so that the crotch can be increased deeper to compensate for the short crotch of the front crotch.

(2) connect the C line of the rear buttocks with the D point, and fold the C point down to reduce the rear warpage and correct the crotch length (see Figure 1).

The body opposite to the posterior tilting body is a forward body type, and the malady and handling methods that appear on trousers after dressing are opposite to those of the posterior tilting body.

As long as we master the handling method of the backward tilting body, the handling method of the forward body type will be easily solved.

Buttock body type

The body shape is characterized by large outsides of the buttocks, flat and normal abdomen, and relatively straight legs on the side, but short in the rear.

The malady that appeared on trousers is that the buttocks tighten the lock, the crotch seam and the back waist fall down, the crotch bend is blocked and the inclined lock is clamped.

The way to deal with the problem is to (1) connect the a point of the rear hip line with the B point of the crotch line and cut it off, and pull the a point upward to make the trouser seam of the trousers longer.

(2) connect the C point and the B point and cut it open, pull the C point to the side seam, increase the slope of the side seam, and solve the drawback of the buttocks tightening the tangle (see Fig. two).

The body shape opposite to the buttock body is flat buttock body type.

The malady and treatment methods that appear on trousers after dressing are contrary to those of buttock body.

Abdominal buttock protrusion type

The body shape is characterized by prominent and fullness in the buttocks, buttocks and lower loins. The center of the waist is backward, but the whole body is balanced before and after.

The disadvantage of wearing a pair of trousers after wearing clothes is short crotch on trousers. The front l-] is slanting, and the back crotch seams down.

The way to deal with the problem is (I) first cut the front buttocks line AB, then cut the BC connection, pull up along the a point, and increase the position above the hip line.

(2) cut the rear buttocks line D and e point (cross crotch line to 1/3 points below the hip line), then cut the EF connection, pull along the D point, and increase the hip circumference (see Figure three).

The O leg is also called the bowstring leg.

The body shape is characterized by the outward projection of the two leg centerline at the knees, the inward deflection of the legs, and the "0" type inside the lower crotch.

Appearance after dressing

The disadvantage is that the side seam is lifted up, the crotch is long and the lock is raised, and the middle line of the trousers is offset to the outside side.

The way to deal with the problem is to (1) cut the crotch line AB in the front piece and cut it down along the side seam a point; (2) cut the crotch line CD in the back piece, and pull it down along the side seam C point.

In this way, the side seam is increased, and the side seam is lifted upward.

X legs are also called Eight Legged legs.

The body shape is "eight" in the legs and knees, and below the knee.

The disadvantage of dressing up on trousers is

Lift up, slit the sides, and shift the midline of the trousers to the inside.

The processing method is: (1) cut the crotch line ab of the front piece and cut it down along the lower crotch B point; (2) cut off the crotch line CD of the rear piece, pull it down along the lower crotch line B point, and pull down along the lower crotch line D point.

In this way, the lower crotch seam of trousers is lengthened, which modifies the drawback of downward crotch seam hanging down.

The above examples illustrate the special body shape.

In handling, we should conform to the principle of combining body characteristics with remedial and buffer proportions, so as to achieve the effect of being convex but not sharp, though bending and bending, but not oblique.

The same is true for the treatment of a special bodice. For example, the upper part of the buttocks should be put on the buttocks instead of the buttocks, and the waist should be taken lightly for the waist, so as to achieve the purpose of "no waist, no buttocks."