Clothing Type Observation And Sample Development

The human body is composed of bones and muscles, subcutaneous fat and skin.

The contour of the human body thus formed is called.

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There are many individual differences in body shape, with varying parts and almost invariable parts.

If clothing is too limited to body size, it will lose a lot of functionality and beauty.

What I want to point out here is that the margin not only reflects the functional and aesthetic feeling of clothing, but also is one of the conditions of clothing modeling.

Somatotype observation

Somatotype varies according to sex, age and race.

Even the same race of the same sex and the same age are also different.

German psychiatrist Clay Chi Mar (Kretschmer1888 - 1964) divided the body into three types: slender, gladiator and obese.

There are also many theories.

Here from

Body angle is used to observe body shape.

1, the type from vertical direction.

From the front, back and side three directions, then observe from the oblique side.

That is, the so-called vertical form of the observation.

From a longitudinal perspective, according to the number of subcutaneous fat in the neck, chest, abdomen and waist, it can quickly tell whether the body weight, standard size or obesity type.

Subcutaneous fat is not distributed throughout the body. The thickness of its subcutaneous fat layer varies from person to person.

If it is thin, then it can be seen from the chest, arms, shoulders and crotch, the convex skeleton, and these fat parts of obesity have a considerable thickness of fat.

It is generally accepted that the body weight standard of the standard body is (height 100) x 0.9 (Kg).

The following parts of the body are observed in detail.

(1) the thorax and breast development of the chest.

On the contrary, it is a flat chest, which is the standard form.

(2) the curvature of the spine varies from age to age.

Children are more straight, and become arched when they are old.

(3)

Thinner people have a smaller neck and a fat body with a thick neck.

(4) shoulders have shoulder and shoulder shoulders compared with standard shoulders.

(5) the buttocks have subcutaneous fat around the gluteal muscles.

(6) the lower limbs have subcutaneous fat in the lateral part of the thigh and the upper part of the inside.

Viewed from the side, the lower leg has a forward flexion and a backward bend.

From the front view, there are two knees that can not be closed together.

Type and opposite X shape.

The middle is straight.

(7) subcutaneous fat is found in the lateral part of the big arm and large buttock.

2. from the horizontal direction to the shape of stone.

Use slide gauge to carefully observe all parts of the human body.

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(1) the shape of the neck and neck is changed due to the backward and backward movements of the neck. The size is almost unchanged, and the change of the left and right neck is also smaller.

(2) shoulders are the most flattened parts. When chest enlargement is performed, it is the most variable part.

(3) chest is the easiest place to see and age difference.

When the arm is raised, the shape of the breast changes with the change of the brain muscle.

(4) in the middle and young layers of the abdomen, subcutaneous fat is not obvious, while in the middle old age, there are more fat in the lower abdomen.

(5) the buttocks are more fat parts, the difference between fat and thin is very obvious.

(6) the axilla is the most deformed part.

The anterior and posterior axillary points change because of movement, so it is very important.

(7) the size of the chest line is large in static state, and it will change according to the action.

(8)

Among the cadres in the body, the circumference is the smallest.

Before and after eating, stand up and sit down, waist size will change.

When making clothes.

It needs at least 2cm or so.

(9) the maximum circumference of the hip line in the lower part of the body.

Japanese hips are slightly down.

The ideal position is 1 / 2 of height.

It takes at least 4cm or so to stand up and sit down.

Side shape features and template development

From the side and oblique sides of the vertical type of body observation, we can clearly grasp the concave and convex parts of the body.

Because the upper part of the body and the lower part of the body's function is not the same, here separately explained.

1. the upper part of the body and the model are unfolded.

(1) the standard form is perpendicular to the point of the earlobe as the center of gravity, about the center of the foot.

It is the proportion of the front and rear proportions of the symmetrical body. That is to say, the highest point of the breast in front is on the same vertical line with the highest position of the abdomen, and the prominent position of the shoulder swelling and the buttocks at the back is on the same vertical line.

But too much tension or random changes will take place.

Based on this standard body shape, the following is explained as a result of poor body shape changes.

(2) chest type chest upright body in the upper part of the middle back fat less, breast height, chest width is larger, the predecessor is longer.

The forward tilt of the neck is small and the acromion point is slightly closer to the center of gravity.

The lower part of the body is prominent in the buttocks and convex in the back.

The abdomen is slightly (A).

(3) the expansion of the chest is due to the strong chest tension, resulting in insufficient front length and front width. In the collar and waist, there is a slanting trick like B.

Transverse fold is formed on the back.

Therefore, in the template, we should press C to reduce the length of the rear, increase the length of the front and increase the volume of the chest.

On the side, move the front and rear side stitches.

That is to say, reduce the width of the rear body and increase the width of the front body.

(4) the hunchback shape is in the upper part of the body with a rounded back and a curved chest.

This causes a wider back, a narrowing of the chest and a smaller breast.

The neck is tilted forward, and the acromion point is slightly biased relative to the center of gravity.

The lower part of the body is flat in the buttocks and prominent in the lower abdomen (A).

(5) the expansion of the pattern is due to the tension of the shoulder bone, which is like B in the back.

This type of body should first increase the width of the back and increase the length of the back.

The latter should also be increased, and both the length of front and the amount of savings should be reduced.

Then, increase or decrease the front and rear neck points according to C, and correct the collar line.

(6) obese body with thick subcutaneous fat is called obese body.

The fat growth position of young people is different from that of middle-aged and old people.

As the age increases, more and more muscles from the back to the shoulders, and in the chest, the breast gradually droop (A).

The pattern expansion is due to the fatness of the body. The size of the neckline and armhole size that is not related to the bust size is reduced by B.

Shoulder width and shoulder width also narrowed.

As a result, side width (fatness) increases.

(7) body weight is opposite to obese body, without fat and flat body type (A).

(8) the model is flat, with shoulder width, shoulder width, back width and chest width as larger as B. The neckline and armhole often increase or decrease.

As a result, the side width is narrowed.

(9) the shoulder tilt of shoulders (shoulder and shoulder) averaged 23.

There are 10 left and right shoulders.

To the shoulder 30.

The difference between them.

The average tilt of the front and rear shoulders is 19.5.

This is smaller than the actual measurement.

It is for the shoulder to have certain allowance.

(10) the shoulders should be extended and shoulder lines raised due to insufficient shoulder height.

In this way, if the armhole size is increased, the armhole line will be raised on the side seam.

On the contrary.

(11) too tall chest shape due to the development of the breast, so that around the tight wrinkles.

Forward swing (A).

(12) the template is expanded according to B, and the length of the front and the front width is increased.

Sometimes I can't move behind.

(13) after the age of the middle and old age, from the back of the neck to the shoulder muscles, it is necessary to increase the shortage from the back to the shoulder.

In the chest, the breast also gradually droop, but in order to look good, the peak point can not drop.

2. the different parts of the lower body are expanded with the model.

(1) the width and thickness of different parts of the lower limbs can be known by numerical value.

The width is the size seen from the front side, and the thickness is the size seen from the side.

The size of the standard body is listed in the table.

The bigger the difference between width and thickness, the thinner the body is; the smaller the difference, the fatter the body.

The clothing that covers the lower part of the body is more convenient for the middle buttocks if it fits well.

Generally speaking, the waist circumference and the hip circumference of adults are bigger, the difference between the middle hips and the hips is smaller, and the waist line of the posterior center is lower than the horizontal line.

The following five examples of body shape are used to explain the different types of body observation.

The second half of the body is referred to as "waist type dress".

(2) the standard form A is the shape of the side and the front.

In the front and rear protrusion, the vertical line is drawn out according to the drawing, the concave and convex is obvious, and the characteristics of the lower part are also clear at a glance.

B is a cross-sectional view of the waist line, the middle hip line and the hip line.

The line from the center of gravity indicates the location and amount of the slit.

(3) based on B, the model is divided into C by dividing the difference between hip and waist.

Move the side suture from the middle of the waistline and the hip line back to 1cm, droop in the center of the side.

(4) the tension of the hip bone is very strong. It can be seen from the cross section.

The difference between the size of the hip and the hip is very large. The tension of the hip bone is very strong, also called the bee waist.

(5) the expansion of the pattern is strongest because the tension of the hip bone near the front side seam is the strongest. Therefore, the volume of the front section should be increased and the length should be shortened.

And the inclination of side seam should be reduced (C).

(6) the tension of the buttocks is very strong, and the fatness is very large near the rear hip line (A, B).

(7) in order to conform to the fatness of the hips, the model is developed to save 2 and save more.

The length of the slit is also shortened.

(8) fat body, abdominal protrusion, fat width and thickness comparison, it is known that obese body, waist circumference, hip hips, hip size difference is small (A, B).

(9)

Because the difference between the parts is small, the amount of savings should be reduced and the length of the slit should be shortened (C).

Insufficient front length should be added from the waist line.

(10) the tension in the thigh is strong. Besides the above figure, there is also a more prominent body in the thigh than in the hip.

In this case, or to increase the margin of the hips, or to increase the size of the front slit in the side seam to increase the allowance of the thigh.

These shapes are illustrated with words and diagrams, but because there are personal differences and some details, we need to use design and material to cover up these shortcomings and reach a perfect level.

3, the longitudinal direction of segmentation

In the former one, the upper part is separated from the lower part, and the different patterns are used to illustrate the development of the template.

Here, it is explained that the upper and lower girth line is continuous, and the way of putting the suture line in the longitudinal direction is suitable for body shape.

(1) the A of the prototype is expanded, and the BP point is pressed by the essentials of the split slot, so that the hem of the side seam reaches the horizontal line of the waist line.

The slot moves to the location of the split line.

The front leg is more prominent because of the larger leg. Therefore, the 0.5cm is extended on the hip line and then extended downward.

Then follow the diagram 3 to 38, and connect the upper and lower templates.

When making overlap parts such as side seams and seams, remove them with iron.

This model is used in the design of the continuous waist line.

(2) when the arm is sagging, the palm is as stable as A in front.

In daily life, hands should be constantly moving forward, so it is necessary to take into account the amount of movement of sleeves.

B and C respectively indicate

With the natural hang state of the tight sleeves relative to the arms, it can be seen that the above axillary points need more than 1cm, and the axillary points need more than 1.5cm.

For tight sleeves, there is a natural margin to suit the direction of the arms.

Among them, the relationship between glue and the fat allowance on the sleeves must bear in mind the relationship between sleeve height and functionality.

The sleeves of the archetype are taken into account of the arm movements, and the above is raised 40.

- 45.

If the state is made on the basis of the benchmark, if it is to be functional, it will reduce the sleeve like hill as A does, so the sleeves will become longer and the sleeves will become more fat and the arms will move more freely.