Partial Cartography (Sleeve)
sleeve
Sleeves are part of clothing and are combined with their bodies.
Here also includes sleeveless clothes.
The shape of sleeves is not only functional.
It also needs decoration and a certain proportion.
From the design point of view, the shape of the sleeve is straight, curved and sleeves with various pleats.
Here are some basic types of sleeves.
Sleeves with basic sleeves
The cuffs of the prototype are plucked or plucked, and the sleeves of the sleeves are sleeves.
As the expansion of the length of the fold, less 1cm is removed from the cuff width. As the allowance of the flexion arm, 1cm is added to the rear side of the cuff.
In the length of the cuff, the thickness of the cloth and loose amount of activity are also included.
bishop sleeve
(half sleeves)
Half a lantern sleeve gives people a sense of loveliness.
First, we use prototype mapping.
Set the sleeve length, add the cuffs of the cuffs and draw into the cut line.
Then press the arrow, expand the pattern according to the diagram, and release the fold.
Add expansion to the cuffs and finish the sleeves.
For the purpose of lifting the arm, lift the sleeve bottom seam up 1cm and correct the sleeve line.
The length of the cuff is added to the circumference of the arm.
Added sleeves with sleeves in the sleeves.
The number of cuff in the sleeves is cut according to the pattern.
The width of the front and back sleeves is widened by 1cm - 1.5cm, the cuffs slightly offset to the inside, and the sleeve bottom stitches are painted.
These sizes can also be added and reduced according to the design.
The top of the sleeve is 1cm, and the sleeve curve is revised.
Tight sleeve
This is the general name of thin sleeves.
Generally, it is not affected by fashion, it is the basic sleeves.
The allowance is small. In order not to affect the function of the arm, it must be strong in direction.
In drawing, first, in order to fit the shape of the arm, the sleeve line should move 2cm - 3cm forward.
Sleeve size is added to the palm circumference.
But if you want a thin cuff, you should add a margin in the wrist circumference and make a slit at the bottom seam of the sleeve.
In order to raise the hand, the sleeve bottom seam is raised up 1cm, and the sleeve rock arc is revised.
The size of the sleeve bottom stitch is poor. It can be pushed aside on the front side and back into the side to get equal length.
It can also be treated as a provincial seam.
Generally, the front and rear 2/3 provinces are taken on the back side sutures, and the remaining ones are pulled out on the front side.
This is like the A figure folded after the seam, the front sleeve bottom stitch will be expanded, the expansion should be solved by pulling out, so as to make the sleeve in line with the direction of the arm.
kimono sleeve
Because the shape of the sleeve is straight, it's like the sleeve of kimono, so it's called kimono sleeve.
The sleeves are continuously trimmed with the same body.
The larger the inclination of sleeve line is, the shorter the sleeve bottom seam will be, and the less arm it will lift.
In that case, we need to add triangular weights to the bottom seam of the sleeve.
But if we only consider the function and tilt smaller, when the arms hang down, there will be a lot of folds on the armpit.
At this time, it is necessary to regard it as a pleated shape and beautiful.
Here is the explanation of the smaller oblique mapping.
There are many ways to deal with chest cancer according to the design.
Here is to raise the rear prototype from the waist line up 1cm to distract the chest.
Another function is to append the length.
Chest circumference also increased the amount of relaxation.
For ease of wear, the cuff line rises directly from the shoulder peak and determines the sleeve length.
When considering the inclination, it is also necessary to think that the seam of the front and back sleeves tends to be equal: if the rear sleeves are slightly longer, they will be placed or placed in the position of the elbow to conform to the direction of the arms.
To reduce waist circumference, it is necessary to add the length of the side seam according to the A line.
The size of the cuffs is fixed in the palm circumference (2cm or so).
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