"National Costume Culture 8" Manchu Costumes [Map]

Manchu has a long history and developed culture.

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Elegant and magnificent, it is unique in our national costume culture. It has had a great influence on the development of our costumes in history.

In ancient times, the costumes of Manchu ancestors were all dressed in gowns throughout the year, and they were divided into two types: light skin and fur.

Subsequently, "women workers only weave".

In the early Qing Dynasty, in the area of Ningxia Guta, "the rich people in Manchuria were dressed in cold clothes, and the jute was used for flocculation.

Until the year of Kangxi, "people who live in Guta today are full of silks and satin, and the sky is cold and the sheep are fur, or the lynx and the wolf bark."

Only the poor are cloths.

This is not the same as the age of the former coat.

The Manchu people who moved south to Liaodong in the Ming Dynasty were dressed in cloth and leather.

After Nur Ha Che's troops started their army, their costumes were in disorder, and there was a phenomenon of "taking the same clothes".

Until the age of Emperor Huang Tai, the crown clothing was custom-made.

After entering the customs, from the emperor to the soldier's clothing, the replacement of cold and hot weather is customizable and insurmountable.

As for idle flag men, men wear robes, made of silk or cloth, and coat of mandarin jacket until the revolution of 1911.

The cheongsam of Manchu women has a lot of development and is fond of making silk and satin.

In Beijing and other places, the practice of "Eighteen inlays", that is, inserting eighteen clothes border, is beautiful. The style also becomes wide robe and big sleeves, which can be regarded as the fashion of Qing Dynasty.

After the revolution of 1911, the style of Qipao changed from fat to thin and long and short sleeves.

After continuous improvement, the general styles are: straight collar, narrow sleeves, right open big buttons, nail fastener tripping, tight waist, long clothes to knees, split ends on both sides.

Chinese women's wearing cheongsam, which is both well matched and elegant, has become the favorite of women in China.

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After the unification of the Nu Zhen tribes, the establishment of the post Jin regime and the implementation of the Eight Banners system, the Manchu nationality was in the flag, so the robe worn by Nur Ha Che was called "Qipao".

After the Manchu aristocracy entered the country and ruled the whole country, Emperor Taizong of Qing Dynasty believed that the emperors of the Qing Dynasty should maintain their life style and traditional customs, especially the dress system of maintaining the national symbol of the rulers.

Therefore, they began to formulate and improve the clothing system of the Qing Dynasty, and repeated orders.

The servants of the maids in the court are all dressed in Manchu clothing, and the Han men's adult men's clothing must follow the Manchu custom. Only when they are buried in the grave after death, can they be dressed in Han nationality.

Cheongsam is one of the modern fashions. It enjoys a high reputation in the international clothing window.

Cheongsam evolved from the ancient costume of Manchu.

Cheongsam, Manchu is called "Yi Jie".

In ancient times, it refers to the clothes and gowns worn by men and women in Manchuria, Mongolia and the eight banners of the Han army.

In the early Qing Dynasty, there were several characteristics of the clothes and robes: no collar, arrow sleeve, left side, four slit and waist.

The arrow sleeve is a narrow cuff with a half round cuff attached to the shape of a horse's hoof, also known as "horseshoe sleeve".

The horseshoe sleeves rise on the same day. When they go hunting, they put down their hands and cover their backs.

Four slit, that is, the front and rear sides of the robe, the slit to the knees.

The left and the waist, tight body warmth, belt, a pig, you can dry food and appliances into the front.

Men's robes are mostly blue, gray and blue, and the women's flag is mostly white.

The Manchu cheongsam has another feature, that is, the waistcoat on the cheongsam coat.

There is a pair of shoulders on the shoulder.

The lute collar, the single word collar and so on.

Riding on the shin shoulder, riding horse is very refined.

When the Manchu moved southward to Liao Shen and entered the Central Plains, they joined the Han nationality in the same field. By the influence of the Han's "big collar and big sleeves" dress, the trumpet sleeves turned into trumpet sleeves, and the four slits evolved into left and right slits.

By the 30s of this century, Manchu men and women wore straight robes of wide sleeves and big sleeves.

Female cheongsam to the left (right side of the left trunk) (leg), embroidered flower ornamentation.

Male cheongsam is not decorated with hem and ankle.

After 40s, the masculine cheongsam of Manchu was abandoned by the new fashion trend at home and abroad. The women's cheongsam was made of wide sleeves and narrowed sleeves.

Gradually forming today's various cheongsam styles of color decoration and human body lines.

Qipao is very suitable for Chinese women's physique and virtuous personality and national temperament.

Traditional clothing has gradually become a harsh flower in the treasure house of Chinese culture, which is favored and appreciated by women at home and abroad.

Mandarin jacket

Liriodendron is a favorite dress of Manchu people.

A good name.

Liriodendron can be divided into many forms, such as the big, the double, the Pipa and so on.

The mandarin jacket is a kind of coat worn by the Manchu people when riding and shooting, and later becomes a garment that is usually worn outside the robe.

High collar collar, four sides open, long and waist, sleeves slightly shorter, robe sleeves can be exposed three or four inches, the robe sleeves rolled on the top of the sleeve, that is, the so-called big and small sleeves.

In the Qing Dynasty, Miu Runfu, a Manchu poet in Shenyang, described: "the sleeves and long sleeves are called genres, and they will skillfully take the Dou dresser.

It can be seen that the costumes and costumes of Manchu were very fashionable at that time.

In the early Qing Dynasty, wearing Liriodendron was limited to eight banners, and the Manchu men wore the custom of wearing mandarin jacket in Kangyong.

In the future, as the Qing emperor advocated riding, he often rewarded his subjects with a jacket and became a "dress".

The emperor's "yellow jacket" has also been a high honor.

In the Qing Dynasty, it was said that it was the result of the influence of the Han nationality's clothing upon the integration of nationalities.

The waistcoat is not the original costume of the Manchu but evolved from the half arm of the Han nationality.

According to the record, the "half arm" pattern began in the Sui Dynasty. It was very simple at that time, that is, no collar, sleeveless and double breasted.

The waistcoat also has the vest, the first party, the coat, the guard and so on.

The shoulder shoulder is divided into a pair of buttons, twisting buttons, one word lapel, and Pipa lapel.

The women's shoulders should be embroidered and embroidered.

There are cotton clips, silk or cloth on the shoulder, and many on the outside of the robe.

There is a "Batu Lu" (Manchu warrior) shoulder bag in the Eight Banners children are very popular.

Later, some plus two sleeves, known as "Eagle Wings", are more martial.