Basic Principles Of Clothing Three-Dimensional Cutting

Archetype Draping
(1) archetype is the most basic and simplest pattern. It is the foundation of all styles. Draping The prototype is clothing. Draping Foundation. The procedures are as follows:
1. will confirm that the front centerline, chest line and datum line are covered on the stage and match the same name lines on the person's table. The pins should be fixed on the table by the pins at the front center and B.P points.
2. push the excess amount below the bust line below the B.P point to form waist waist and fix the waist area with a pin, while determining the position of the side seam and fixing it.
3. push the allowance above the chest line to the shoulder, and cut the neckline to eliminate the pulling force at the neckline.
4. the operation of the rear piece is the same as that of the front film.

(two) the design of the prototype's wide volume: there are two main ways.
1. pass method: before the operation, release a certain amount of loosening at the chest breadth and temporarily fix it with a pin.
2. placement method: in Draping After the completion, add relaxation to the side seam directly.
3. body correction: because Draping In terms of technical difficulty, cutting parts are difficult to guarantee accuracy. Therefore, for right-handed clothes, the right garment is often made, while the left garment is cut according to the right garment. Therefore, the amendment is necessary.
(1) remove the cloth from the table and put it on the platform and press it with an iron.
(2) re draw the neckline, armhole arc, side seam and shoulder seam with the drawing ruler.
(3) check whether the relevant parts are reasonable and trim the left garment according to the right garment.
(4) connecting the left and right clothes with hand needles and fixing them on the stage. The relevant parts, such as pockets and buttons, are cut according to the actual sample and placed in the corresponding parts to check whether the overall shape of the garment is perfect. In the stereoscopic cutting of stereoscopic cutting, we can see that the shape of the garment presents the basic state of two: loose and well formed. The loose expression is that the fabric and the human body are in an isolated state, forming a certain space, while the fit is the match between the fabric and the human body, showing a body fitted state. The key to the formation of this body position is the use of the province.

(three) the concept and significance of province
The 1. provinces are Costume making In the form of a surplus part, the province comes from the two dimensional cloth placed on a three-dimensional human body. Due to the ups and downs of the body, the difference of the circumference, the degree of looseness and the low degree of fitness, the fabric is loose in many parts of the human body. Fashion modeling From the traditional plane modeling to the real sense of three-dimensional modeling.
The transfer of the 2. provinces and the transfer of their provinces are the extension of the technical application of the provincial roads. Design Towards diversification Draping The principle of the transfer of the middle provincial road actually follows the principle of the bump ray, that is, the shifting of the dart with the bump as the center. For example, the design of the surrounding high points can lead to numerous provincial roads. Besides the most basic thoracolumbar provinces, shoulder provinces, armhole provinces, neckline provinces, middle and central provinces, and armpit provinces are all forms of provincial treatment, which are around the point of collapse, namely the chest height. Design Provincial Road diversion.


(four) several provincial forms. Draping Operation:
1. waist Province, which is the most basic form of provincial form, transfers all the surplus to the bottom of the chest.
2. the former province of the former province is divided into two parts and transferred to each other. Design This is the same concept as the decomposition and transfer of the province mentioned in the plane structure.
The 3. character province is the form of the Chinese character, which is called herringbone. Herringbone province is different from the symmetrical features of the above provinces. It is asymmetrical, and it also shows the characteristics of the province. Such provinces also include Y shape and T shape.

(five) Draping Province and division
Segmentation is another cutting technique after the province. When two provinces point to the chest height, we can connect these two provinces to form a dividing line. This is the structural form of the joint structure in the plane structure, and the use of segmentation techniques makes it fit. clothing In addition, a way of expression has been added to the structural design, and at the same time, it has also made Clothing design Language is more abundant.
(1) vertical segmentation -- combining shoulder provinces and thoracolumbar provinces to form a vertical line, such as the classic Princess line. In addition, the neckline and waist provinces, armhole provinces and waist provinces are vertically separated.
(2) horizontal segmentation is mainly a horizontal or approximate segmentation line, such as connecting the armhole and the front center to form a transverse segmentation, transferring the scapula to the armhole, and connecting the two provinces to form a horizontal segmentation of the rear piece.
(3) oblique segmentation, which is a kind of split between horizontal and vertical, and is an asymmetrical segmentation. For example, the shoulder joint of the right garment is connected with the side seam of the left garment to form an oblique dividing line across the garment.
(4) straight line segmentation and curve segmentation. In the design of garment knot segmentation, the linear form is mainly divided into two basic forms: straight line segmentation and curve segmentation, and the rest are variants based on this. Straight line segmentation is the basic form of segmentation, while curve segmentation is rich in segmentation design, but it should be noted that the greater the curvature, the greater the difficulty of the process.
(5) operation requirements -- no matter which way, they operate in the same way. First, determine the location of the segmentation on the human platform and identify it with the expression line. Stereoscopic cutting prototype The operation method and steps are piecewise completed.

   
(six) Draping The pleated art plucking is the most widely used design language in clothing design. It makes clothes appear more connotative and lively, especially in girls' clothing. Design Plucking is one of the main forms of expression. Pleats are divided into two basic forms: regular fold and free fold.
The 1. regular fold is mainly manifested as a regularity between pleats and pleats, such as the size, spacing and length of the pleats are the same or similar. Regular pleats represent a mature and dignified, lively and steady style.
2. free folds -- contrary to regular folds, the free fold shows a randomness, showing a casual feeling in the size and spacing of the pleats, reflecting the lively, generous, relaxed and relaxed style of clothing.
3. operational requirements - as a result of Draping Different and plane cutting can accurately calculate the amount of material, so in the cloth cutting, we should first leave enough allowance, then set the size of the fold according to the need, and mark it with a pen.