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    "The National Costume Culture 22"

    2011/3/18 11:41:00 80

    Yugur Costume

    Yugur people live in nearly 90% of Kangle, Dahe, Minghua, Yucheng District and hoofah Township in the area of Sunan Yugur Autonomous County of Gansu Province, and the rest live in the Yugur township of Jiuquan city.


    Yugur called themselves "Yao hu er".

    In Yuan and Ming Dynasties, they called "sati Wei Wu" and "Li Wei Wei Er". In modern times, they called "Xi La Wei Gu Er" and "Xi La Guer Huang Fan".

    At the beginning of the founding of the People's Republic of China, it was once called "saliuyur".


    In 1953, after consultation with the representatives of the ethnic group, we decided to "Yugu", which is similar to the "Yao Hu" sound, and also take the meaning of "rich and strong Chinese" as a family name.

    According to the fifth national census in 2000, the Yugur population was 13719.

    Yugur now uses three languages: one is the Western Yugu language (also known as Yao Hu language), mainly the Yugur people in the western part of Sunan Yugur Autonomous County; the other is the eastern Yugu language (also known as Engel language) and the masses in the eastern part of Sunan Yugur Autonomous County, and the other is Chinese.

    The Yugur nationality does not have the native language, generally uses the Chinese language.


    The ancestors of the Yugur can be traced back to Ding Ling, third Century BC, the iron lake of fourth Century, and the Hui nationality living in the river of the color River and the erhun River Basin.

    Hui is one of the six parts of Eastern tile (also known as Di Li, Chi Le, Gao Che).

    Later, in the struggle against East Turkic khanate, the eastern tribe formed a tribal alliance centered on Hui nationality, known as "nine surname" or "nine surnames".

    In the middle of eighth Century, Hui Hui defeated the Turks and established the Hui and Khanate in the Uyghur mountains (today's Hang AI Shan Branch) and Wen Kunhe (now erhun River).

    In the middle of ninth Century, the Hui and Khanate were broken by kirghas, and all the parts of the Hui Autonomous Region moved around, and one of them went to the west side of the river to merge with some of the early Hui and Hui, where they lived and multiplied and became the Yugur people today.


    Yugur nationality

    Woman

    The headwear is quite National.

    When a girl is 15 years old, she has to wear "Sada Erg", which means that the girl can grow up and marry.

    "Sada Erg" is a square cloth made of red cloth, decorated with shells and coral.


    Yugur women have the habit of wearing hat.

    This kind of hat is made of felt made of white wool, with two black edges on the front edge. The brim is not wide, the rear edge is slightly warped, the front edge is extended, and the top of the hat is decorated with red thread tassels hanging around the top of the hat.

    Some are decorated with variously colored patterns and worn on the head like a buckled horn, which is very chic.


    Unmarried girls and married women's hat are slightly different: the unmarried girl's forehead is wearing "Ge Yao Zhi Yi", that is, a long red cloth belt is decorated with coral beads, the lower edge is red, yellow, white, green, blue five colors coral and jade beads string of many ears, it is like a bead curtain like eyebrow hanging in the forehead.

    Comb five or seven plaits, and there is a colored velvet thread inside the plait, which is tied in the back belt.

    The women in full dress wear a flat cap with a wide cylinder and a big red coloured collaterals on the top of the hat.

    Married women wear long head faces, that is, they first comb their hair into three plaits, one behind their backs, the left and right braids behind their ears.

    Head and face are three, tied on three plaits, each of which is divided into three sections. It is linked by metal rings, with silver ornaments, coral, agate, colored beads, shells and other ornaments on it.

    Wearing the top of the head requires a pair of earrings, down to the bottom of the robe, and the length of the head is determined by the height.


    Under the sunlight, the hat of the Yugur women is particularly magnificent and dignified, full of national sentiment, walking along the way, and the head ornaments, such as pearl shells and silver, collide with each other, giving out a crisp, rhythmic tinkling sound, which is very pleasant to hear.


    Yugur men's clothing is relatively simple, but it also has its own characteristics.

    The man wore a gold hat with white felt hat, and the brim of his hat rolled up behind.

    There are also some black edges on the top of the hat, with a round or octagonal pattern on the top of the hat.

    Dressed in a large collar gown, wealthy families often use cloth, silk, satin and purplish red, and so on. The poor families often use white wool to knit Brown knitted fabric.

    In winter, they often wear silk, satin and cloth made robes, while others wear white blouses or brown felt blankets for the winter.

    Men usually wear red belt, five inch waist knife, flicker and snuff bottle on the belt.

    Skirts

    No matter whether they are lined with colored cloth or brocade, the rich also use the otter skins outside.

    The left and right sides of the skirt are lined with slits, and the edges of the clothes and the hem are trimmed.

    The old man has a cigarette pouch made of champagne skin on his waist.

    The purse is a long vase with a big belly and a vase, and its bottom is hung with red tassels.

    A smoked pot is made of ebony rods of one foot long. It is equipped with jade or agate cigarette holder, bronze or brass smoke pot head. The length is about two feet. Usually, the collar is inserted from the back of the neck, and the cigarette holder is exposed to the collar.

    Yugur men, on festivals or major events, should wear long sleeves and short sleeves on the robes, and open small slits around them.


    According to historical legend, during the Qing Dynasty, during the high pressure of the Qing Dynasty, the Yugur men left a long braid and wore black Liriodendron, which was strongly resisted by the Yugur people and broke out the struggle against Qing Dynasty.

    The Qing government sent the chief of the imperial army to suppress the army, and massacred many people to suppress the struggle.

    The custom of wearing long braids and wearing Liriodendron in the Yugur nationality did not disappear until 1949.

    Men wear underpants on their underside. In winter, they wear the skin of high waist and pointed nose made of cowhide and wear wool socks.

    Hunter hunters often wear leather cots made of cowhide themselves, which are light and comfortable.

    In Haizi area, men also wear hand-made double nose bridge with round head and high waist cloth boots, and usually on the green cloth with white lines and cloud shaped patterns.

    Yugur men also wear gifts.

    cap

    In winter, men and women usually wear fox fur snow caps.

    Nowadays, Yugur men and women usually wear fox fur snow caps.


    Yugur men also wore jade bracelets, silver bracelets and rings. They were said to wear their arms without pain.

    A ring is usually a large silver ring, with Silver Enamel, and a middle bead, worn on the ring finger.

    Old men also like crystal tea glasses.

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