"Money Scene" In The Collection Of Qing Palace Costumes

Yong Zheng's military service plan

There were many kinds of court costumes in the Qing Dynasty. The collection could start from the purse with simple workmanship and less money, and could also take the road of professional collection, purchase large robes of emperor's robes, and set up independent paths.

　　
"China has the beauty of clothing, it is called China, and it is called" Xia "because of its great etiquette. The Chinese nation is a nation that pays attention to costumes. Ancient costumes are not only beautiful and pleasing to the eye, but also show their identities, distinguish between dignity and propriety, and conform to etiquette. Behind the costumes is rich and unique traditional culture, Ooyu Fumiaki.

　　
However, due to the change of dynasties and the promotion of time, the costumes of the Qing Dynasty had almost disappeared. So the collection of clothing was mainly concentrated in the late Qing Dynasty and the costumes of the Republic of China, and the most valuable was the collection of court costumes in the Qing Dynasty.

　　
Who does the weaver hide?

　　
Knowing the production process of court costumes in the Qing Dynasty, we can know that the clothing of the Qing Dynasty is very valuable in terms of work, and it is very difficult to counterfeit and easy to start because of its complex manufacturing techniques and superb means.

　　
The demand for palace costumes in the Qing Dynasty was huge, and the process was varied and varied, including brocade, make-up yarn, silk, silk embroidery, yarn embroidery, gold embroidery and so on. In the Qing Dynasty, the source of court costumes was handmade by the concubines and maidens in their spare time except for some purse and other small objects.

　　
The interior office, which is commonly known as "yamen", is the logistic guarantee for the operation of the Qing Dynasty. During the 300 years, it was responsible for the production, supply and storage of the splendid costumes. The Ministry of clothing under the Ministry of the interior mainly consists of Guangzhou storage department, office building, weaving dyeing Bureau and three weaving.

　　
One of the functions of Guang Chu Si is the acceptance of Dong Zhu, mink and other tributes and three weaving and weaving of silk and silk, bearing the processing, making and storing of Royal costumes, providing Royal dress, four seasons clothes, gold and silver jewelry, etc.

　　
However, the exquisite palace costumes include only a small quantity from the Guangzhou storage department, the office building and the interior dyeing and dyeing Bureau, and the rest are mostly woven by Jiangnan three. Three weaving Bureau, that is, weaving Bureau of Jiangning, Suzhou and Hangzhou, is the main raw material producing place and clothing production department of Royal costumes. It was established in the year of Yu Shunzhi, and Guangxu year was replaced by Chi Hua hall.

　　
In terms of technology, there are three advantages in weaving: Jiangning wins with makeup and weaving, Suzhou is good at silk, and Hangzhou is famous for embroidery. Jiangning weaving mainly produces big red Python satin, big red satin, and gold tassel, specializing in weaving various kinds of silk, all kinds of clothes, silk and thread. Most of the brocade in the palace is made in Nanjing, and its brocade is so beautiful that it is called "cloud brocade". The makeup flower of Yun Brocade variety is a weft knitted fabric with the main advantage of digging as shuttle. Its color can be up to three or four ten colors, and it can be colored at any time in the direction of latitude and longitude. A large amount of gold and silver thread is also decorated. The silk and embroidery used in the palace are produced in Suzhou. Suzhou weaving often undertakes embroidery and various kinds of cloth purchases. Its silk is divided into two categories: "upper use" (after emperor) and official use (reward royal officials). Silk is made of silk, Luo, silk, satin, yarn, and so on, especially known for weaving Song Shijin. Hangzhou weaving Bureau mainly weaves spinning, silk, fine, various colored threads and different lengths of silk and so on. The main silk fabrics are silk, Hangzhou Textile, Hangzhou silk, silk and so on. Weaving in Hangzhou is "heavy with silk", and because of its good silk quality, it has the characteristics of light, thin and soft. Weaving machines made by different manufacturing bureau have woven fabrics, such as "Hangzhou weaving Chen Sheng GUI" and "Jiangning weaving Chen Gao Jin".

　　
Because of the need for the Qing court, the three weaving of Jiangnan has been spared no effort in production, so the three weaving silk products have been highly praised in terms of the quality of the process and the variety of colors. Three the silks and satin weave and weave are praised as "exquisite and exquisite, but the human being is so skillful that the heavenly work is wrong."

　　
At present, most of the Qing Dynasty palace costumes are hidden in the the Imperial Palace Museum of Beijing. According to information, there are more than 15 pieces of cultural relics in the the Imperial Palace Museum. There are also some pieces of Qing palace costumes in Taipei the Imperial Palace. Some of them have been published as picture books. During the period of the Republic of China, many of the Qing Dynasty costumes were exported to overseas and the private sector. Many collectors now specialize in the collection of Qing Dynasty costumes. It has been reported that Zhang Yapei, chairman and collector of Ningbo Minhe holding group, has dozens of dragon robes in Qing Dynasty. 12 of them have been publicly exhibited. Chinese silk collectors and Linda Wrigglesworth, British antique dealer, have been trying to develop Chinese clothing into a category that attracts buyers in the past 30 years. Because of the study of Chinese dress, Linda served as a clothing consultant in the last emperor of the film, and all kinds of costume accessories in the movie were designed by her.

　　
Dress auctions get better

　　
The auction of costumes in the Qing Dynasty has recently been circulated by the news that Beijing Yongle international auction companies will bring "Mr. Jeff Chang, a collection of embroidery and embroidery in Qing Dynasty", on May 24th at the Yin Tai Bai Yue hotel in Beijing, where there will be nearly 80 pieces of Qing Dynasty palace embroidery.

　　
Taiwan men's singer Jeff Chang's Embroidery collection has been shot for two consecutive seasons in Yongle, but it does not indicate the source of the product. In the face of a higher turnover rate, especially from the growing interest of collectors, Jeff Chang decided to take out more embroidered clothes and share with Tibetan friends. Jeff Chang said: "if the collection is owned by more conscientious people, it will have half the effort to carry forward the Chinese costume culture."

　　
In 2010, Yongle spring auction and autumn auction were gradually rising. At the spring auction in 2010, Yongle, Beijing, launched the "Jinxiu Wenhua" senior collectors to collect the art works of silk weaving in Qing Dynasty. A total of 10 pieces of silk dress art were made, mainly in the court costumes of the Qing Dynasty. The total turnover was 7 million 56 thousand yuan, with a turnover rate of 100%. Among them, Qingdao green and Satin Embroidery, group crane, eight treasures, court court gowns and robes were sold at 257 thousand and 600 yuan. Yongle Autumn Auction continued the good momentum of the spring shoot. In the Ming and Qing craft exquisite works, it also launched 15 pieces of Qing Dynasty costumes, a total of 12 transactions, with a turnover rate of 80%.

　　
In fact, as early as 2005, there was a special auction of silk fabrics in China. At that time, China's patron Chun photo launched a special photo of "splendid and skillful Tiangong weaving hall and Chinese silk art", with a total turnover of 44 million 378 thousand and 400 yuan, with a turnover rate of 91.1%, of which 8 pieces were over 203 million yuan.

　　
Since then, in 2006, the top three of China's embroidery products sold at auction in Hongkong Christie's and Sotheby's were over ten million yuan. Among them, Qing Emperor Qianlong's twelve rounds of Pearl and yellow Satin were sold in HK $14 million 680 thousand, setting a world record for the Dragon Robe auction.

　　
In 2008, a Qing Imperial Palace, the old Tibetan silk, Sanskrit Ronnie, Huang Jing Jing, traded at 72 million 50 thousand yuan in the Beijing Wen Jiu auction, creating the second high price of the global auction of silk art in the past dynasties.

　　
In the same year, Christie's spring auction in New York also launched a special auction of court costumes and silk in Qing Dynasty, and the product was from Linda. The auction was the first Chinese silk auction to be held in the west, with a total of 154 products and 112 transactions.

　　
In January 16, 2009, the auction of northern latitude launched an auction of art boutique including 30 dragon robes at the Hong Kong and Macao Center in Beijing. A total of 117 pieces of products were sold for 55 million 421 thousand yuan, with a turnover rate of 56%. Among them, 40 pieces of "palace art boutique" were sold, with a turnover of 43 million 150 thousand yuan, with a turnover rate of 55%. A Qing Dynasty yellow silk embroidered trun Ni Jing was shot from 4 million 800 thousand yuan, after more than 20 rounds of competition among the two buyers, the final transaction price was 14 million 80 thousand yuan.

　　
Over the past five or six years, overseas costumes auctions have grown with the expansion of the auction block. China's clothing collection market in the Qing Dynasty has been getting better. As a relatively late start of collection category, clothing still has great investment potential and appreciation space. The collection of clothing in the Qing Dynasty was just in time.

　　
Link: crown clothing category in Qing Dynasty

　　
The dress system of Qing Dynasty is more complicated than that of any dynasty in Chinese history. From the emperor, the imperial concubine, the prince of the prince, the royal family, the guards, one or two, three and so on, the blue Ling guards and the courtiers were all dressed according to the rules.

　　
According to the regulations of the Qing Dynasty, the crown clothing of the Qing Dynasty can be divided into five categories: formal dress, gowns, regular clothes, line clothes and rain clothes.

　　
In these five categories of dress, the position of dress is most important. The dress was the costumes worn during the major ceremonies and sacrifices in the Qing Dynasty, with the highest specifications. Guangxu's "Great Qing conference plan" is divided into three categories: the dome, the end cover, the uniform, the Royal costume, the dynasty bead, the dynasty belt and so on.

　　
Next is a kit. Jifu, also known as "color clothes" and "flower clothes", is used before and after the major auspicious festivals and the main activities of the sacrificial ritual. The so-called Dragon Robe is a kind of suit. Guangxu's "Great Qing conference plan" is divided into emperor's imperial gown, Dragon Robe and gown belt under the auspice of the emperor. There are also dragon gowns in the empress, the Empress Dowager and the wife. There are no dragon robes under the Royal Prince, there are robe robes, and the following are no Robe robes.

　　
Regular clothing, including regular clothing, regular gowns and regular gowns, is one of the five kinds of garments worn by emperors in the Qing Dynasty.

　　
The Royal costume is worn by monarch and minister in such activities as patrol, grand hunting, expedition and pro Yueh temple, Zhenhai blaspheme, Yuan Sheng Zhou Gong temple, monk temple incense and the former Emperor's mausoleum. When the war came back and the emperor was in line with the army, he was also known as "winning the robe" or "winning the coat". Suits include crowns, gowns, robes, rows and rows.

　　
Raincoat is a kind of crown clothing worn by monarch and minister in the rain and snow. Rain clothes include rain crowns, raincoats and rain clothes.

　　
These five categories are also dressed in the daily life of the palace, with various forms and rich colors. They are called casual clothes. They have cloak, robe, Liriodendron, tights, shawl, coat, trousers, cloak, etc. All kinds of patterns are colorful and colorful. A kind of name in the shoulder is called "one word", Manchu is called "Batu Lu", that is, the warrior. The court wants officials to wear this ridge more frequently, also known as "military aircraft Hom", commonly known as the "Thirteen guarantees", because this vest is surrounded by edges, with a row of buttons in the chest, a total of thirteen. So far, Qing opera is still common.

　　
In the aspect of accessories, besides the earrings, necklaces, golden covenants and so on, Qing palace often wears items such as purse, watch, fan cover, boots, areca bags, wraps, mirrors, spectacles, mirrors, powder boxes, surname boxes and other unique Manchu items; collar, sleeve, hand cage, gloves, handkerchiefs, streamers, buttons, waist, belly and other crowns; head flower, hairpin, head face, big pull wing, cover head, flat side, bracelet, string, ring, wraps, fingernails, beads and other accessories. There are many species.