1949: Chinese Clothing Inflection Point

In the 50s of last century, Hua Luogeng, Lao She, Liang Sicheng, Mei Lanfang (left to right) four people together. From their clothing, we can see that the Chinese tunic suit has swept the various fields of the society at that time.

The formulation of the dress system is a great event after the founding of the Chinese dynasties. However, People's Republic of China did not have a system of service. This is the first time in China's history that no order has been made. Dress system The era.

Mao Zedong announced the establishment of People's Republic of China in the Tiananmen tower, which was in October 1, 1949. On that day, Mao Zedong wore an olive green tunic. It is said that in the spring of that year, in order to prepare for the founding ceremony, someone asked Mao Zedong what to wear at the ceremony. Mao chose the Chinese tunic suit which he liked most often. It happened that, when cleaning up the materials, a piece of yellow and yellow school was found. The texture was very heavy. So a skilled tailor made this dress for Mao Zedong.

Later, this is called "wool" by Westerners. Chinese tunic suit For the people's political power. dress code Set the tone of form and become a potential system of service.

In 1949, great changes took place in Chinese society, and the process of Chinese clothing also appeared in this year. New China did not promulgate a new system of service, but successfully carried out new clothing and aesthetic standards - not relying on government decrees, but relying on ideological power. The modern fashion of cheongsam and so on in the Republic of China stopped here.

The leader of the new regime with a strong sense of worker and peasant brought Jiefang District's simple clothes and aesthetic consciousness to the 50s of last century, and it affected the next several decades. From then on, the aesthetics of Chinese costumes appeared a great turning point. The new government carried out a comprehensive transformation of old China. In the following series of reform movements, the clothes of new Chinese nationals were also transformed. With the deepening of transformation, people who dress up are becoming dissatisfied with the new society.

In the early days of the founding of the PRC, due to the economic recession and the shortage of materials, the government emphasized the new Chinese living standards of "hard struggle" and "thrift and housekeeping" and so on, advocating economizing and opposing luxury. Coupled with the "left" tendency of some simple workers and peasants, the aesthetic of simple, dilapidated and humble clothing is pushed to the political level. Old clothes should be patched up, and even new clothes will be patched to show simplicity and revolution. Because the dress is fastidious or simple or not, will directly affect a person's political future and survival state. As a result, fashion costumes with special political significance were formed during this period.

The fashion in the 50s of last century is certainly associated with revolution. Any dress similar to those of Jiefang District, the PLA, workers and peasants is beautiful. Lenin costume, people's wear and Chinese tunic suit became the three most fashionable clothes at that time. At that time, a set of military and government management models were implemented, and cadres of the military management committee assigned to various places brought new ideas and new forms of clothing. They are representatives of the new regime. They are respected wherever they go, and their attire is also an imitation. Just like the unity of revolutionary ideas, revolutionary costumes have unified the clothing of people of all social strata in the whole country. This is an era of unity of all people and following the revolution.

The city is the world of "revolution" clothing for Lenin and people's clothing. Besides the cadres wearing cadres' clothing, the countryside is still a world of Chinese short coat. The invisible new regime has been carried out and carried out by the masses.

The name "comrade" rising in the new China began to be popularized with the birth of the people's political power and became the criterion for new China to express the relationship between people. The title of "comrade" is a public address of members of the socialist revolutionary family, regardless of their occupation, age and sex, expressing a simple understanding of the concept of equal democracy. After the completion of the socialist transformation marked by the "three anti five, five anti", public-private partnership and agricultural cooperation, the "shopkeeper, the boss, the manager and the chairman of the board of directors" also did not have the social conditions of existence. With the "grain and cotton unified purchase and marketing, workers' supervision of production" and so on, a series of policies aimed at flattening the social status of all people came into being, and the loud address was "comrade". Colleagues, friends, couples and passers-by all call each other "comrade". Comrades who have similar aspirational aspirant work together in the new society for common purposes, live together and struggle together. And this concept is also reflected in the clothing of this period. The clothing of the gay era also blurred the social class, occupation and status, regardless of age, regardless of season, regardless of the occasion, and even blurred the gender differences.

The function of the logo of clothing is larger than that of any historical period in the new society, though for individuals, it means that everyday clothes, like uniforms, inhibit individual desires and demands. But in those days, it was also a "revolutionary fashion" that had to be chased.

In the early years of liberation, Lenin became the "modern" of that era. Of course, the word "modern" was not used at that time.

At first, Lenin was dressed as a man and woman, but later it was only for women. Those female cadres who left the family and participated in the revolutionary work were dressed in Lenin's clothes and plain and had the elegant demeanor of the proletarian revolutionaries. This grey collar of double lapel, double breasted and girdle is regarded as the most revolutionary and fashionable dress. Women wear short hair, straight hair braid, no powder, pedal shoes and glue running shoes. And in such a uniform way, to show that they are progressive revolutionaries, at least they are self reliant laborers. At that time, feminine dressing was not promoted. A piece of cloth, a hairpin, and a red head rope had been completely dressed up.

The drama "the sentinel under the neon lights" is a story reflecting the liberation of Shanghai at the beginning of the year. Lin Yuanyuan, the broad lady in the play, took the initiative to cut short hair and wear Lenin suits and overalls. The costumes here are not only stage costumes, but also symbols of real life. After liberation, businessmen and intellectuals quickly and quickly wore blue or gray tunic. In the photographs at that time and in the future, they were dressed in Chinese tunic suits without exception. No matter how acceptable they were, their pure passion for self transformation was still valuable.

In such an atmosphere of the times, a collective unconscious of people in New China was bred. They thought that wearing traditional Chinese costumes appeared old-fashioned, outdated, and even with a little feudal spirit. Western style clothes and cheongsam were more of the kind of overthrown class; therefore, the Lenin costume, the people's clothing and the Chinese tunic suit of new China had the symbolic meaning of the new era.

Clothing is the carrier of social comprehensive information. In the early days of the founding of new China, the costumes carried too much political content. Later "anti rightist" and "anti rightist" aggravated the trend of "left leaning" on clothing. Political intervention has infiltrated into everyday life. Blue, gray and black have replaced the colorful colors of the past. Lenin's costume and cadre's clothing have only been respected for a long time.

However, in the 50s of last century, the laboring masses, who had turned over their heads, devoted themselves to socialist construction with high enthusiasm for labour, and the economy had recovered and developed rapidly. Though the clothes are monotonous and simple, people sing from their hearts: "the sky of Jiefang District is a bright day..."