The "Secret Warfare" Between Designers And Fashion Brands

along with fashion The recent changes in the field are becoming increasingly fierce, designers and fashion. brand The deeper relationship gradually came to the fore. This is not everyone's imaginary harmony, but rather a treacherous and hidden murder. Brand requires designers to have more "exploding points" and most of them. Designer Still willing to live in ivory tower. Who will be the ultimate winner without this end?

　　 Is there any black curtain for John Galliano?

John Galliano, because of anti Semitic remarks, was removed from the Christian Dior, which he had reinvigorate herself, and then lost even her own brand. At the same time, this is also an unprecedented social public event in fashion history. Its influence has already exceeded the fashion industry. It is not only concerned by practitioners, fans and beauty lovers, but also leads to extensive social discussions.

In the past, there were many designers who were fired by Dior company. Among them, there were many famous Yves Saint Laurent and Gianfranco Ferre, whose status is no less than Galliano. Why is it that only this time, the departure of the designer has triggered a tsunami of public opinion, so that the "idle people" besides the designer's family and friends group can also quarrel with each other? The evolution of information communication channels and ways in modern society is one of the important reasons, but what plays a crucial role is the change of designers' social status.

At the end of the twentieth Century, fashion was no longer just a simple aesthetic. It first became an attitude and a spirit of loving itself. This idea catered to the psychological needs of modern people to the greatest extent, and even no other commodity audience could cover such a broad spiritual level. In order to publicize this spirit, the brand needs its own spokesperson -- the icy models and the celebrity endorsement stars with huge changes in advertisements are not the best choice. In the eyes of more discerning consumers, designers who have moved together with the brand have the right to speak (though the final sale is not their design).

"Designers are the new opinion leaders" may be premature to say this, but it is undeniable that designers have already been a former stage performer by the tailor of the brand behind the scenes, and are responsible for guiding consumers to the most direct impression of the brand.

Therefore, when John Galliano was dismissed, even though anti Semitic thought is the absolute forbidden zone in western society, the industry has always had a conspiracy theory: in fact, the unruly John Galliano had been racially discriminated and outspoken, and the drunkenness and foul mouthing had become a common occurrence. But this time, the failure to be drunk has become a fuse for a series of disasters. The real reason is that Dior has already had enough of the designer who has been burning money without restraint and recklessly, and has no breakthrough in her image. It is true that Galliano can give everyone the admiration of the magnificent show on the annual Dior show. It is also a personal look at the curtain call with the model than the Sao show. But compared with the other brands of the same class brand, who are keen on various kinds of eyeball hype or topic marketing, it is absolutely impossible. Besides the occasional negative news, there is little organic time to occupy the tabloid headlines. Looking back at Galliano's fellow Chinese, Louis Vuitton's Marc Jacobs and her partner's sub division and love affair continue to play the cross border reversion of innocence and rebellious play to high; Chanel's Karl Lagerfeld step into the photography world, and the little boys are changed one by one; Prada's all day with the art circle eyebrow, looks like a low-key, actually it's a scug break through; even the former Lagerfeld's comeback is coming back, while playing the erotic stick while playing the mystery. If the opponent is so fierce, if Dior looks in his eyes, he will be very understanding.

Of course, the outside world can only guess about everything about Galliano. After all, the reason for Dior's dismissal is very clear: racial discrimination. In contrast, another case of designer dismissal recently shows that in today's fashion industry, design itself is no longer the only trump card in the designer's hands.

Even if you have saved the mountain, the dread will be out.

On the 2011 autumn and winter fashion week in early March, after John Galliano was absent from Dior, Balmain creative director Christophe Decarnin also did not appear at the curtain call of the brand. Paris. Balmian gave the reason for this: the designer had been admitted to the hospital because of mental depression, but the news was immediately caught by Gala magazine. "Gala" has revealed many of the "sudden absence" of the insider, such as the design of this season is not from the hands of Christophe Decarnin, but by Balmain2011 autumn and winter women's show stylist Melanie Ward to work, more powerful is, some people revealed that the root cause of Christophe Decarnin's departure is that he and the Balmain chairman, CEO Alain between the many disagreements - such as in the brand situation is good, and want to expand the light luxury line, but has been strongly opposed by the conservative character. The contradiction between the two people reached its peak before the show, and what the designer called "mental state" was just an excuse for kicking him out.

However, such a result may have been expected, or even a top priority. Although Balmain, the old fashion house, has been brought back to life in the hands of Christophe Decarnin, in the strict sense, Balmain has only been popular in fashion industry for less than two seasons. Christophe Decarnin those highly priced personal leather jackets, holes T-shirt and sequins skirt really hit the fashion people's nerves at the first time, but the style is too obvious, which means that brands can't be fresh every season. When people were tired of the so-called Balmain style, we were surprised to find that Christophe Decarnin had taken the lead and did not try to improve her brand awareness and influence. This is probably the most incommunicative designer of this era. He hardly ever publishes any remarks about himself. The answers given by the media are always enough to make reporters mad. Even if the other side is the big name "New York" magazine, Decarnin still does not want to reveal his own little gossip - in other words, anything that might arouse readers' interest. Media, fans, celebrities, when everyone is tired of yawning, Balmain is not far from the new doomsday.

In fact, the departure of Christophe Decarnin is much less than John Galliano. There are no friends in the circle who stand up to support him, and no fans are crying out for it. The reason is simple. Christophe Decarnin has trained a group of Balmain fans with design, but this has little to do with himself. And what about Balmain? It still maintains a high selling price, but people are no longer as eager as it did in the past two years.

Interestingly, the two brands of brand change are related to brands that have gone through more than half a century (Balmain was founded in 1945, and it has been tied to Christian Dior and Cristobal Balenciaga after the Second World War). Perhaps the new brand is firmly controlled in the hands of the founders, and perhaps the brand with a long history is more aware of the importance of the image of the designer herself. To be sure, when a brand looks for a new creative director, it is not a regular tailor, but a new leader. It can lead the brand to a new breakthrough, make the brand always on the cusp of public opinion with its own charm, and attract a large number of fans who love the house and the black and are willing to pay for it.

The old student had to talk about Tom Ford. When he first held Gucci, she almost relied on her own efforts to make efforts to turn the tide. Before the Vogue Paris editor in chief, Tom Ford friend and Bo Le Carine Roitfeld said that at that time she had never thought of working with Gucci, but the Tom was too charming for her to refuse. Before and after 2000, I didn't know how many fans in the world fell down on the "sexiest homosexual" in the world and feel the same way about Gucci's "superstar style". Tom has become the best spokesperson for Gucci who surpasses all male models. It seems that if you wear Gucci clothes, you can become the next Tom Ford. In 2004, Tom Ford left Gucci group, focusing on personal brand and film business. The successful Marc Jacobs successfully took over. It was like a new generation of demon male representatives, and the gossip was constantly outside, so that even though the old school of Louis Vuitton could not be immediately reversed, it would not be able to get around the name of Louis Vuitton.

To say how amazing the above two designs are, it is not true, but the fact is in front of us. The two star designers, with their own image, have made the two most influential brands today.

　　 Hype! Design is no longer important.

Modern society is changing rapidly, sensory stimulation is always crowded and competition is becoming more and more intense. It is much harder for a brand to stand on its feet than it used to be. Andy Warhol's theory of 15 minutes becoming famous is obviously not enough for the brand. Only by strongly and continually attracting the attention of consumers can it win. However, after a long period of conscious historical heritage, it is impossible for the brand to change its image to suit the public's preferences at any time, which will also make the brand lose its core value. Designers have bigger space, more real personalities, and more fun to play. A designer who can succeed in creating popular interest and tends to be more positive sometimes even needs to be above the brand.

Designer Marc Jacobs is also a business genius. Fortunately, for new generation designers, it is not difficult to create a unique image and operate properly. With the development of social networks and self media, the genes of self marketing are rooted in the blood of this generation. Successful designers in the twenty-first Century almost all have impressive personal images and styles. They are the new generation of Vivienne Westwood, the new generation of Pierre Cardin, but are unlikely to become the new generation of Martin Margiela. While the fashion industry is shaping the image, it is no longer just the brand itself. The image of the designer has become a crucial link. Christian Dior was once the most dazzling designer star after World War II, but now what people need is a star designer with entertainment and topic, which involves image packaging, news speculation, crazy social networking and crisis public relations.