Three Elements Of Garment Structure Drawing

Nowadays, with the development of society, people are increasingly seeking personalized clothes. The key step is how to make clothes fit.

And the clothing structure drawing is not only related to the drawing specification of clothing, but also related to the selection of clothing materials, clothing styles and technology.

First, clothing style and clothing structure drawing.

The clothing style is determined by various factors, such as the outline of the finished product, the structure of the inner garment, the shape and the location of the accessories.

Clothing styles mainly come from physical samples, physical patterns, photographs, magazine pictures, design drawings and so on.

As for the physical samples, we can observe and measure them carefully, and we can produce the finished garments that are identical with the physical samples.

For physical objects, we can produce the finished garments according to the tailoring and process requirements.

But for photographs, magazine pictures, design sketches and so on, it is more difficult, especially for complex styles of clothing, because photographs and so on usually only have a positive view (or with the back view), and can not observe the clothing in all directions, and can not measure the specifications in detail.

Therefore, the following focuses on how to understand design intent and understand design intent, some of which are also applicable to observation of physical samples.

Correct understanding

Intentions are generally considered from five aspects: variety name, style structure, contour, line shape and use, combination of garment components and their specific size and proportion.

(1) name of species

First of all, we need to know the basic categories of clothing, the gender and age of wearing objects, and the important contents of seasons, regions, uses and ways of dressing.

From the gender and age of the wearing objects, men and women's clothing, clothing for middle-aged and elderly, children's clothing and so on, which are formed by the differences between men and women and old and young children, are in the form of modeling and

There are obvious differences in color patterns.

Judging from the seasons and regions, people's clothing is divided into spring and autumn clothing, summer wear and winter clothing due to climate change throughout the year.

Take winter as an example: in the north in order to resist the need of cold, the material of the coat should be thick, and the clothes should be put outside the cotton padded clothes, so the amount of relaxation should be large. In the south, when the air temperature is higher, the coat should not be too thick. When wearing it, it is usually used outside the suit to resist wind and sand, so the amount of relaxation is relatively small.

(2) style structure

Style structure, also known as clothing pattern, refers to the clothing shape structure reflects the clothing components or parts combination form.

Sleeves or shoulder sleeves, sleeves and body combinations with flat or double seam structures, with split or double seam, and single breasted, double breasted, double breasted, half size, half open, open, straight, open, plush, open, open, open, open, open, open, open, open, open, open, open, open, open, open, open, open, open. For example, whether the front and back pieces are waist or waist width, whether they are to receive or divide, whether they are collar or door collar in collar, whether they are lapel or no collar; they are round in sleeves.

The characteristics of the parts that can be observed directly in the garment shape belong to the

Characteristics.

(3) outline

Contour is also called modeling.

Different shape profiles have different modeling characteristics.

The common ones are H, A, V, T and O.

Type H has the characteristics of peace, solemnity, fluency, and no close fit.

Type X is graceful, graceful, and embodies the natural beauty of the female body.

Type A has a stable sense of stability, full of youthful vigor, tight and loose.

Type V has exaggerated shoulders, showing masculine charm.

The T type has a simple, generous and natural crepe like loose body.

Type O has exaggerated shoulders, contracted pendulum and exaggerated and gentle displays.

From the above characteristics, we know that the outline of a garment is not equal to the shape of the human body.

It is a tight fitting body. It creates the fashionable clothing of the times by exaggerating and modifying the human body. It is a loose or partial fit.

(4) line modeling and use

The garment piece is made up of different straight lines and curves. These lines may be contour lines, they may be various provinces, seams, pleat and decorative lines, or they may be the dividing line of clothes. If we want to distinguish between functional line or decorative line, we should know that the functional segmentation lines often include some provincial lines in the segmentation line, and the decorative segmentation lines usually segment the clothes and then sew them.

(5)

The relationship among components and their specific sizes and proportions

Clothing is often composed of different pieces of clothing, and these films have a certain proportion relationship with each other.

The waist width, hip height, height and so on are benchmarks. Shoulder width is usually based on the actual shoulder width as the standard. The size of the bag is large and the chest girth is the most important benchmark. For example, the bag pocket of the bag under the waist line is large. The men's clothing is generally B / 10 + 5cm, and the dress is B / 10 + 4cm. For the bag under the waist line, the men's pocket is usually B / 10 + 6cm, the women's clothing is generally B / 10 + 5cm, the bag length is 1.2 times larger than the bag mouth, the height of the bag is generally 1 / 3 of the bag length, and the location of the bag is generally located below the waist section 7 - 8cm left and right. For clothing length, it is often

Two, clothing material and clothing structure drawing

Clothing is composed of different materials through a combination of process means. Different fabrics have different properties due to different raw materials, yarn, fabric organization and processing methods, which affect the drawing of clothing structure, mainly in three aspects: material texture, shrinkage, warp and weft thread.

Different materials have different properties. For example, silk fabrics are light and soft, and wool fabrics are thick and strong. Therefore, when the silk fabrics are cut, they should be shortened and relaxed in order to suit the natural elongation and contraction of the slanting silk. For thinner fabrics, the width of the stitch should be widened so as to prevent the need for yarn removal. For fabrics with inverted wool and floral fabrics, they should be marked on the pattern when drawing the garment structure, so as to avoid any mistakes.

Shrinkage of materials also affects clothing structure.

The shrinkage of materials includes water shrinkage, ironing shrinkage and blanching shrinkage. Therefore, it is necessary to deal with garment structure drafting. For trousers, as long as the washing shrinkage and ironing shrinkage are added to the pattern, the shrinkage and blanching shrinkage can be added to the pattern of the front garment.

The warp and weft threads of the material are elastic, flexible and easy to extend.

Generally, trousers, clothing length, sleeve length, waist waistline, roll bar and horn skirt are generally inclined.

Three, clothing technology and clothing structure drawing

In the process of garment structure drawing, due to the different garment technology, the amount of hem is different.

Commonly used seams have split joints, incoming and outgoing seams, inner and outer joints, etc. the seams of the split structure are 1cm, and the seam of the seam is 1.4cm. If the width of the seam is 0.6cm, the seam should be 0.7 0.8cm seam, and the seam should be 1.5cm seam.

The different processing of hem also affects the drawing of clothing structure. Usually there are doors, inner buttons, skirts, edges, cuffs, feet, collar, sleeves and so on.

For doors and inner buttons, there are two forms: adding noodles and connecting noodles. When the door and the inner lip are straight, it is usually used to pick up the noodles, and the doors and the inner buttons are not straight, such as suits.

For armholes and collar necklines, there are three forms of welt, flanging and rolling. For the armhole with a welt, only 1cm stitch is required at the armhole. For flanged sleeves, flanging width is only required at the armhole. For the sleeves with rolls, no seam is required at the armhole.

For shoulders that need shoulder padded clothing, it is necessary to reduce the inclination of shoulders. For clothing that needs to be added to clothing, it is slightly larger than the face pattern in making the pattern, so as not to prevent the lining from affecting the fabric.

The appearance of the shape.

From the above analysis, we can see that in the drawing of the garment structure drawing, it is not only to draw the garment structure, but to integrate the clothing styles, clothing materials and clothing technology, only in this way, the final finished clothing can not only conform to the designer's map, but also keep the feasibility of the garment making.