Cutting And Placing Yards: Rear Warpage And Conversion Of Skirt Trousers

Skirts and trousers are the same as the lower part of the body.

And the supporting parts that fit the human body are the waist.

Why are they opposite to the structural processing of the waistline after the plane pattern?

That is, whether it is a cylindrical skirt or a conical skirt, it should be raised at the middle of the back waist of the horizontal waistline.

No matter what shape pants are, they should be raised in the middle of the waist of the horizontal waistline.

To grasp the reasons will help us understand the principles of the lower garment structure and guide the pattern design.

From skirts and trousers, the skirt is surrounded by a tube or a cone on the two lower limbs.

It holds the two lower limbs of human motion as a whole in a cylinder or cone shape, without any restraint, and the ideal skirt state is horizontal.

When the human body is put on the skirt, the waist shows the wearing condition: the front waist line is high, the waist line is low, the front is high and the latter is low.

The lower part of the body covered by trousers is not a whole cylinder or cone. It is a large cylinder similar to the waist and buttocks and skirt. It is stitched into two small cylinders by the internal crotch bend to wrap the three cylinder of the two lower limbs, forming an inner crotch structure. The waist and hips and the two lower limbs are tied down from the inside of the barrel, so that the front, back, up and down are interrelated.

After wearing the trousers, the body is dressed as follows: the back waist line is high, the front waist line is low, that is, the reverse diagonal line with the skirt waist line.

From skirts and trousers to see the reason for skirts.

Does the rear camber appear in the opposite direction?

It is related to the function of human body structure and clothing.

The human spine is complex curved, pelvis protruding, and sacral posterior process.

The multi axis connection state of the crotch groove and the joint of the buttocks makes the body posture complex. The waist is the connecting part of the upper part of the human body and the lower part of the body. The human body has an organic balance and maintains a rhythmic relationship, so that the side of the human body presents a relaxed reverse S curve. The waist is at the turning point of the lateral curve of the body. When studying the relationship between the human body and the pattern, the waist line of the human body is set as a horizontal line for convenience or a benchmark. The actual waist line of the human body (the waist's finest part) is a diagonal state with a front high and a low height. We can also demonstrate the human body structure through the development of the human body surface.

That is to say, skirts on the waist line of human body are consistent with the natural waistline of human body, while trousers are higher than horizontal waistline when worn on the human body.

Because of the movement function of human joint and knee joint, when people are squatting or flexing, the longitudinal extension of the bottom and hip grooves of the rear body is the largest.

When the human body is in Portuguese, the posterior limb axis is parallel to the segmented line, and the L1 L3 and S1 S5 of the posterior segment are larger than those of the upright.

The skirt is wrapped in a cylindrical or conical shape around the lower part of the human body, and the opening of the cylinder or cone is open. There is no obstacle in it. All the gravity is supported by the skirt waist and attached to the waist of the human body. The skirt waist line only falls on the natural waist line of the human body, and the skirt can well wrap the lower part of the human body: the vertical and the horizontal level of the side seam.

Otherwise, the skirt will not be able to hang well, the side seam will swing forward, the skirt will appear before it is warped or pasted or appears the opposite phenomenon.

Therefore, when the plane pattern structure is processed, the middle waist line should be warped down to make it appear in the slant state before and after high and low, so as to achieve the ideal wearing effect of balancing the level of human body and skirt.

As the skirt is open and there is no tie in the skirt, when the body is bent or squat, the longitudinal extension of the hip will be provided by the upward movement of the skirt.

Because of the crotch joint structure, the trousers have internal diaphragms separated by the waist buttocks and the lower limbs, and a crotch bend of the front and rear restraint wires in the large cylinder.

At the same time, the crotch bend line also makes the front middle line of the trousers form 1.5 closed circles through the gluteal groove to the rear midline.

This semi closed loop can adjust the balance between the front and back of trousers and the human body in a certain range.

The more leaning trousers, the forward elliptical semi closed ring is closer to the shape of the human body, that is, the width of the crotch and the depth of the crotch of the tight trousers are smaller than those of the loose body, but the inclination of the rear midline is larger than that of the loose type.

The stronger the function of trousers is, the stronger the body strength of the front, middle and crotch is, the lower the regulation of the front and the lower sides of the crotch joint is, the lower the regulation of the upper and lower joints of the crotch is, the stronger the restriction of the upper leg movement is. The longitudinal extension of the rear part of the buttocks is mainly provided by the above crotch position. In order to make the trousers have good functional performance, the waist position of the trousers is located above the waist level line of the human body in the structural design, so that the trousers waist line is raised to the front and the front is low, and the longitudinal function of the buttocks needs a length.

Therefore, on the plane pattern of trousers, the structure of the middle waist line is raised, and its purpose is to provide the longitudinal length increase of the trousers for the front curve and squat movement of the buttocks.

To ensure that pants meet human functional requirements.

Transformation from skirt to trousers state

Skirt and

The waist line is two different states, that is, the front height, the rear height and the rear height, which can be pformed into each other. It is mainly affected by the influence of crotch bending on the degree of human containment.

With the width of crotch bend changing, the change of the middle inclination angle is pformed into each other.

When the width of crotch is increasing and the middle inclination is decreasing gradually, the half closed ring formed by crotch bend is smaller and smaller, and the front and rear restraining functions are becoming smaller and smaller. The trousers are becoming more and more toward the tubular structure of the skirt, and the movement of the trousers is more and more unhindered until the restraining effect of the crotch is disappeared, and it becomes a practical skirt structure, such as the middle waist line of the skirt pants is not only upturned, but also like the skirt, which is entirely the inner structural form of the skirt.

Similarly, the skirt does not add the same crooked crooked structure as trousers. When the width of crotch decreases, the inclination of the rear midline increases continuously until the body is in line with the state of the body. The trousers become more and more fit. The restraining effect of crotch bending is more and more obvious. The longitudinal extension of the forward motion of the human buttocks is more and more dependent on the upwarping of the middle waist line, such as the crooked crotch of the jeans is narrow, the rear midline is tilted and the upwarping is large.

The lower warp of the skirt.

The upwarping is determined by their structural characteristics, whether or not they have a restraining effect on the human body.

When their internal structure changes, they can pform each other.

In order to achieve the purpose of balancing the lower part of the human body, the middle waist line of the skirt should be warped down and the waist line of the skirt should fall on the natural waist line of the human body.

The trousers have the crotch width and the rear midline tilting because of the structure of the crotch bent on the human body. In order to satisfy the functional needs of the human body's forward bending and squatting, the middle waist line should be warped up to ensure that the trousers are bent or sitting in front of the human body, and the rear waist line falls on the natural waist line of the human body, and there will be no loss.