Cultural History Of Cheongsam Slit

　　

Under the influence of western culture, Chinese women began to understand the beauty of curves, constantly improve their cheongsam, introduce new ideas, and strive to show their graceful figure. But this is not plain sailing, so the "seesaw warfare" between Chinese and Western cultures is sewn on cheongsam.

From the costumes of Manchu women to the popular cheongsam, the cheongsam series on the first China national costumes fair shows people a history of modern Chinese and Western cultural exchange.

Cheongsam was originally a Manchu women's clothing. In the early 20s of this century, Han women began to dress. For more than one thousand years, in the atmosphere of strong feudal ethics, Chinese women's wear has been straighten straight line, chest, shoulders, waist and buttocks straight, and the female body's curves are not exposed. Cheongsam also maintains this characteristic.

Cheongsam shows curve beauty

Under the influence of western culture, Chinese women began to understand the beauty of curves, constantly improve their cheongsam, introduce new ideas, and strive to show their graceful figure. But this is not plain sailing, so the "seesaw warfare" between Chinese and Western cultures is sewn on cheongsam.

In the early twentieth Century, Qipao waistcoat was popular. That is to say, the short sleeves with wide flaring sleeves and the sleeves without sleeves. In 1926, the short coat and the long vest became one of the original styles of modern cheongsam. Over the next two years, cheongsam made some changes in the side, sleeve, collar, collar and so on, adding decoration and complicated changes. But it still keeps the traditional broad cut style of cheongsam vest, and the traditional way of straight-line cutting can not reveal the feminine figure.

In the late 20s and 30s, cheongsam launched a "contest" in terms of length, width, slit length, sleeves and sleeves, and collar collar.
 

　　

When slit is high, time is low.

In 1929, influenced by short skirts in Europe and America, the cheongsam of the medium length began to shorten, the hem fell to the knees, and the cuffs became shorter and smaller. Later, there were school uniform cheongsam, the lower part was reduced to 1 inches above the knee, and the sleeves were westernized.

This change was criticized by public opinion. After 1931, Qipao began to grow longer and its hem was sagging. In the middle of 30s, the cheongsam length developed to the extreme, and the bottom of the robe covered the feet, which was called "sweeping the cheongsam". The sleeves of the cheongsam, which could have covered the wrist, were shortened to the elbow. After that, the sleeves become shorter and shorter, and they shrink to two inches below the shoulders. After 1936, they are almost sleeveless.

The cheongsam was not slit in the past. Qipao also quietly opened a low slit on the left while shortening its sleeves. Later, the slit opened higher and higher, and gradually increased to the knees and thighs. Because of objection, the paw was once below the knee. However, when the pressure of public opinion decreased, the tunic quickly increased, and the cheongsam was popular after 1933.

The traditional cheongsam is a straight line, plus a high stiff collar. In the early 30s, the waist of the robe began to contract for a long time. After 1934, the curve of the female figure was finally revealed. The tall and ears collar gradually became shorter, and later some became the no collar cheongsam.

In the collision between traditional and modern, maintaining the traditional "good" and the pursuit of beauty, Qipao is increasingly close to the times, close to life, divorced from the original style, and becomes economical, convenient, beautiful and suitable.
 
 

The cultural revolution also led to the life of Qipao.

However, from 50s to the period before reform and opening up, Qipao was described as "four old", "sealed, funded and repaired". Mrs. Liu Shaoji, President of the National People's Republic of China, wore a cheongsam on a visit abroad and became a major crime in the "Cultural Revolution".

China's reform and opening up has promoted the great emancipation of the mind. The monotonous black, gray and blue have been replaced by colourful colors. The cheongsam, which has disappeared for more than thirty years, is again worn by Mrs. Amy.

Fan Wenhai, an associate professor of Shanghai Museum of history, said: "in the cultural exchange between China and Western countries, Qipao has become a Chinese and Western style female costume with Shanghai style. It has become the national costume of Chinese women."

China's ethnic costumes are hard to count, and only more than 3400 of them are exhibited at this fair. Although the national costume is beautiful, many people are no longer dressed because of their complicated sewing and weary clothes. Cheongsam, however, is increasingly popular and is becoming a mobile landscape in China.