Fashion Big Names Favor Unnamed Designers.

Olivier Rousteing (left) Umit Benan (right)

Olivier Rousteing, Umit Benan, Alistair Carr and team designers from China Ling Lui, Dawei Sun were appointed as the designers of Balmain, Balmain, and brand.

All these appointments are on the top of the big stories. According to the news, Azzaro brand will also appoint an unknown designer to replace Vanessa Seward.

Even the Christian Dior brand is said to have chosen an unknown designer to replace John Galliano without inviting famous designers.

Mr. Bernard Arnault, President of LVMH group, is said to be an active supporter of young designers. In 2008, he appointed Phoebe Philo as the Celine brand designer.

In 2005, he also appointed Riccardo Tisci as Givenchy designer, which was quite surprising.

Vanessa Denza, the holder of Denza brand, said: "the situation is different from that in 90s, and investors are becoming more astute. They realize that there is no need for famous designers to create brands, to create brands, but rather to choose the most suitable people."

Agnes Barret, director of Agent Secret, said: "Galliano leaves the Dior brand, and Christophe Decarnin leaves Balmain to a certain extent, marking the end of the star designer era. Everyone seems to realize that there is no need to choose a designer with a high reputation, and then watch him end his fate."

Alistair Carr (left) Ling Lui and Dawei Sun (right)

Floriane de Saint Pierre runs a consulting company in Paris. In his view, the designer's personality and team leadership are very important. Many brands now value a new business model and management style.

Pierre noted that since the mid 90s, many big brands began to choose unnamed designers, such as Alber Elbaz, who was Guy Laroche designer.

Other examples include Burberry's current designer Christopher Bailey and Gucci's current designer Frida Giannini.

Mary Gallagher, partner of Martens&Heads company, said: "when many people in Tom Ford design team, such as Christopher Bailey, Francisco Costa, Clare Waight," Hou "and so on, have become designers of big brands, other brands have gradually realized the importance of seeking unknown designers behind the scenes.

On the one hand, these designers will be better controlled. They will be grateful for this sudden rare opportunity and will not ask too many requests.

On the other hand, star designers may make consumers ignore the classic series of these brands, and classics are the capital that every brand wants to keep.

Many brands now pay more attention to passing the classic and characteristic of the brand, not letting the designer's aura cover the brand's own value. In fact, the main driving force of consumers buying a brand is generally from the appreciation of brand history and unique value, and it has no very great relevance with the designer.

The main task of the designer is to continue the inheritance and design style of the brand, so that the brand can continue to develop.

The popularity of the media is a bad thing in many cases. In 1996, Alexander McQueen took over the Givenchy brand designer, which caused a great stir. But the bad result led to McQueen leaving Givenchy after four years to concentrate on the design of her brand.

Therefore, the key to choosing a designer is to consider the fit between designer and brand.

Fame is always high and low, it is not a guarantee of success. It is the designer of brand success that can find the designer to match the brand.