Yao'S Unique Textile Technology
The linen textile technology in Guilin is far more famous than cotton spinning.
There is an old song in Dongshan Yao Township, the whole state: "the empress, the goddess!"
Ge Ma textile is the earliest household linen made by Dongshan Yao family.
According to the book "general examination" Volume 22 written by Ma Du Lin, Yuan Dynasty, "the Tong Dian Zhi: the contribution of Wen Jun county is taken as the price of the quasi silk, but more than fifty."
At that time, in Lingling County, the order of the year was gong Ge Bu, and some served as tribute to the feudal dynasty.
At that time, the whole state belonged to Lingling County, so it was very famous for GE Bu's Ge cloth in the whole state.
Dongshan Yao Township in the whole state is located in the mountains, cold and cold, and it is not suitable to plant cotton. The history of the collection of Pueraria lobata has a long history and has a set of traditional crafts and skills.
In their long life, they realized that Hokudo had the properties of long fibers, and he used mountains and mountains to make full use of them.
In the summer of, the Yao people saw Hokudo Hama's barren hills, green leaves, long vines and no shoots. They gathered up Hokudo on the mountain, cut off their leaves and petioles, and picked them in the water. They were left in small furrows or in wells for five to seven days, so that the epidermis rotted, and then removed and removed the epidermis.
Hang it on the bamboo rack on the edge of the house, do not have to withdraw at night, let it play for two or three days of dew, and then dry in the sun, the linen becomes more white, and the texture will be more soft.
After the success of rinsing and drying of kudzu,
weave linen
The first step of the process is to make numbness, and to rip up the long and thin jute linen into a fine linen, so that each piece of linen is of the same size and ready for the preparation of linen. Therefore, it is necessary to tear the kimchi, which is one or two times longer than the hemp, into the hemp yarn.
Some women tend to become more harmonious and intimate when tearing up Ge ma.
The courtyard and Hall of every family will be filled with laughter and joy from the Yao people.
After the hair of Ge Ma, half a kilo or two of them are bundled up to pile up on the wooden wall of the hall.
Li Ma is the most arduous work of Yao girls, mostly in the spare time.
To make use of every bit of time
It is only hard for the old lady of the Yao family to know how hard it is to be late for the night.
First, prepare a bamboo woven box or shallow bamboo basket, a small straw stool, a female Yao girl sitting on a single stool, put the silk box on the left side, put the two threads together and put them in the box.
In this way, after continuous joining and continuous performance, the stacking of the knot of the knot of the knot in the box will reach a certain quantity and stop weaving.
At that time, a cylinder was made of hard paper, which twisted the good hemp thread on the cardboard cylinder to form a hollow twine round piece, and passed it through a hollow rope and hung it on the wooden wall. When the family of Ge Ma finished the hemp line completely, the next process was carried out to spin linen.
Selection of tools for spinning hemp thread
spin cotton
The spinning wheel used for flowers.
Unlike spinning cotton, the flower sliver should not be spun when spinning cotton, otherwise the cotton stick will not spit out the yarn, while the spinning linen thread should be placed in the pot with a little water to prevent the drying of the linen.
Of course, spinning hemp yarn is much easier than spinning cotton yarn, because the hemp thread is well prepared in advance, so long as it is spun tightly on the spinning wheel, no need to prevent the joint from breaking, and no need to mix the foam evenly.
If the spun yarn is used as a thread for weaving linen, the hemp thread is tightly knitted, and the hammer can be removed and twisted with a racket frame.
If the twined thread is used for line, two threads should be intertwined to form a thread.
After spun yarn is spun, it can be twisted with a racquet rack. It can be boiled and dried after ash alkali. It becomes a clean white line. If it wants to be dyed, it can be boiled and dyed with its own blue indigo, and then dried to make it into a blue line.
If the spun Ge silk is used for weaving, it will be the same as the weaving process of cotton yarn.
The Yao family spun itself less, but the self weaving spun silk made more fabric for the craftsmen.
After the weaving of Ge Ma Bu, Dongshan Yao family has a wide range of uses, including clothes made for making mosquito nets and sacks.
Gnetam is tough and wearable and can be made into mosquito nets for 10 to 20 years.
Ge Ma belt can be used as a basket for loading agricultural products. It is safe and reliable, lighter than basket and suitable for pporting goods in mountainous areas.
Ge linbu is used for hot day clothes. It is cool and airtight. It is not soaked in sweat.
Gable cloth has played a good role in the history of Dongshan Yao Township, no matter to life or production.
Textile and dyeing are always linked together.
Yao family loves batik, and Dong people love color and dye. These are traditional crafts of ethnic minorities in Guilin.
The wax material of Yao nationality is made of wax. Some wax wax is used. Some of them are made of wax. The way to dye them is: first, use the small bamboo sticks to dip the wax juice. When they are painted on the cloth, they do not need to sketch the grass. They directly depict the image of chicken, goose, Tenglong, Fei Feng, skateboard, moire, row of teeth, and fold chain directly on the fine white cloth, then put it in the blue indigo barrel, then take it out of the indigo cylinder, boil it with clean water, and remove the wax.
Batik cloth, bright color, vivid, plain and beautiful, can be used as a scarf, quilt, but also for clothing cloth.
Among the Yao compatriots in the counties of Longsheng, especially the red Yao women in Longsheng, they are skilled in painting and dyeing.
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