Shenzhen Women's Clothing Brand Transformation
More than 30 years ago, the Shenzhen special economic zone was established. Thereafter,
It is the express train that is developing along the special economic zone. The garment industry in Shenzhen develops step by step. In the 80s of last century, Shenzhen
Shenzhen women's clothing is in the design concept, style innovation, fabric selection, processing technology.
According to media reports, "6 of the 10 domestic brands of women sold in large shopping malls in the first tier cities of China are from Shenzhen fashion designers." Shenzhen is the largest production base of women's clothing brand in China. It has more than 1200 women's clothing brands. Shenzhen women's clothing has been in the forefront of the country in terms of design concept, style innovation, fabric selection and processing technology, and its new cycle has been shortened to two weeks.
Tracing back to the history of the development of Shenzhen's garment industry, it is easy to see that in view of the geographical characteristics of Shenzhen itself, Shenzhen's garment industry started with "three to one patch" and "OEM production". As the "experimental field" of China's reform and opening up, Shenzhen has given many overseas enterprises to Shenzhen to find opportunities to expand the market. Therefore, the garment industry in Shenzhen started from the foundry.
Last century 80 to 90s, there were many garment factories in Shenzhen. Almost all of them were processed according to orders, and the products were exported. The concept of brand is a new thing that has never been heard of before.
Shenzhen has its own unique geographical advantage, which is adjacent to Hongkong. Thanks to the original relocation of Hongkong's garment industry in the late 80s and early 90s, Shenzhen's garment industry has been developing rapidly. Although the garment industry in Hongkong has accumulated a considerable number of industrial systems after decades of accumulation, it is only part of the manufacturing sector that moves, and its associated design, marketing, management, consulting, brand planning, advertising and other supporting links have not moved inland. To a certain extent, the brand awareness of Shenzhen's clothing industry has not yet been able to keep pace with Hongkong's neighbors.
At that time, the garment manufacturers in Shenzhen were enduring the squeeze of foreign businessmen, earning a small profit. But even for such a small profit, enterprises must accept foreign businessmen's "pick and choose". According to an industry insider, the foreign businessmen took the order at the time, and at the same time sought several Shenzhen foundry enterprises to negotiate, who had the best quality, fast speed and low cost, and who would be most likely to get the order. Therefore, OEM enterprises try to reduce costs and save energy. {page_break}
Who can imagine that Mass Phil, the representative of high-end women's clothing in China, is also processing export brands in Shenzhen's Sha Tau Kok bonded area more than 20 years ago. Zhu Chongyun, chairman of Mass Phil Fashion Co., recalls that when processing a men's shirt, the total cost of the foundry work was only 6 yuan, including all the expenses of staff wages, utilities, rents and so on, with little profit. At that time, she firmly believed that there was no way out for processing, but it was a temporary solution.
But in any case, the "three to one" enterprises occupy a dominant position in the garment industry in Shenzhen more than 20 years ago, and have formed a distribution mode of export oriented products. This export oriented approach has adapted to the needs of free competition in the garment industry, and from that time, this approach has played an important role in the clothing industry in the initial stage of Shenzhen.
According to Shen Yongfang, President of Shenzhen garment industry association, from the mid 90s of last century, enterprises gradually began to develop brand awareness, and at the same time, we gradually turned our eyes to the domestic market. Especially after the financial turmoil in Southeast Asia in 1997, the export of garment enterprises was hindered. The Shenzhen Clothing Industry Association strongly advocated making brands. Therefore, Shenzhen garment enterprises, especially women's clothing enterprises began to transform slowly.
Shen Yongfang took over the post of Secretary General of Shenzhen garment industry association in 1998 and spent nearly six months to conduct in-depth research on the surrounding markets such as Humen and Guangzhou Baima. He formulated the "Shenzhen garment industry development strategy" and put forward the "five projects" for the first time, that is, famous teachers, famous brands, famous enterprises, famous shops and famous models.
Now, Mass Phil, Ernie, singer, movie, Providence, and the ladies' house. Which is not the domestic women's clothing brand?
Actually, women's wear in Shenzhen is not very early. In a short time, why can it successfully remove the "processed" hat and take an important position in the domestic women's clothing industry? Actually, the original design is a magic weapon -- from the macro level of the government to the micro level of the enterprises, the design is placed in an important position.
According to the reporter, after two years of preparatory application, Shenzhen was granted the admission to the global creative city network in November 21, 2008, and was awarded the "design capital" by UNESCO. Shenzhen is China's first city to join the network, and it is also the first developing country in the world to win this honor. Fashion design has become an important force in the "design capital".
In Shenzhen, such as Yi Zhi Hui and Tianyi are all original designer brands, and brands such as Mass Phil, Song Li Si, and Ying Er have achieved great success in business.
For example, on the Eleventh China International Fashion Week, Liang Zi, the design director of "Tianyi TANGY", won the double award of the highest award in Chinese fashion design, the Golden Summit Award and the 2007 Best Women's Designer Award. This is the first time that since the founding of China Fashion Week, the first two awards for the Chinese fashion design industry have been awarded to the same designer at the same time.
The creation of original clothing brand is Zhao Huizhou's dream. In 1996, after graduating from the Hubei Academy of fine arts, Zhao Huizhou went to Shenzhen's clothing industry to work hard. He entered the fabric, hit and sell, and later created the brand art. More than 10 years of development, Zhao Huizhou has always adhered to the "original design", which not only pushed Yi Zhi Hui to the domestic line of women's clothing brand industry, but also earned a lot of face for the original design strength of Shenzhen women's wear brand.
Mass Phil, founder of Zhu Chongyun, is a student of science and engineering. But she loves fashion design very much. Since she entered Shenzhen in the early 90s of last century, the idea of creating famous brand has been around. Today, she did it. Zhu Chongyun firmly believes that excellent design and the integration of the unique ideas of international fashion and fashion can make clothes achieve extraordinary results.
According to the reporter, in Shenzhen women's clothing, more than 75% of women's clothing enterprises sell 5% to 15% of their sales as design, innovation and research and development funds, while 69.2% of research and development funds are used for the development of new products. Shenzhen women's clothing industry is changing rapidly from low technology content, low added value, export processing type to high technology, high added value and private brand development mode. {page_break}
It is understood that at present, the output value of clothing industry in Shenzhen has accounted for more than 10% of the whole country. As of 2010, the clothing industry in Shenzhen realized output value of 150 billion yuan RMB, and exported nearly 8 billion 900 million dollars. There were more than 2500 garment enterprises, more than 350 thousand employees, more than 1000 private brands, more than 100 of which were famous brands in China, and the market share of shopping malls in big cities was as high as 60%.
A woman dress entrepreneur in Shenzhen has said that the garment industry in Shenzhen should transform the fashion industry, fashion industry and fashion industry in the direction of creativity, brand operation, high value added, and become the world's most high-end brand in the industrial chain.
I hope this is not just a dream.
However, according to the development trend of women's clothing industry in Shenzhen today, it is not impossible to export high-end Shenzhen women's clothing to the world someday. Mass Phil needless to say.
Xia Guoxin, chairman of Shenzhen Song Si Si Industrial Co., Ltd., told the media that for the Chinese market, the demand for high fashion brands in the future should be deeper and wider. In the opening ceremony of CHIC in 2010, she released the "MODERNCITY modern city" ELLASSAYFIRST2010 autumn and winter high fashion and formally announced to the industry the birth of the high-end series.
Shenzhen film fashion group limited now has 5 brands, namely YINER (sound), PSAlter (Psalm), INSUN (En Shang), SONGOFSONG (song song) and OBBLIGATO (Olga To), whose positioning is more than one high-end.
Zhou Cuiqiong, chairman of the group, told reporters that the film has always been committed to blending the essence of eastern and Western elegant culture into the clothing culture, and integrating the traditional and modern art with a fashionable look, thus making consumers the best choice for noble life. At the same time, we should implement multiple brands and implement the internationalization strategy to create a leading fashion boutique group. "The movie's dream is to be China's DIOR and CHANEL." Zhou Cuiqiong said. According to her introduction, the shadow group's sales in 2010 were 1 billion 700 million, 2 billion in 2011 and 2 billion 700 million in 2012.
He is not only an old brand in Shenzhen women's clothing industry, but also a representative of high-end women's clothing brand. In 1994, Wu Suiping began to introduce Italy's famous brand "Ma Tian slave", and officially registered in Shenzhen, China, and established Shenzhen Ma Tian slave clothing Monopoly chain Co., Ltd., and began the luxury brand's China journey. Today, Ma Tiannu enterprise group, which integrates clothing research and development, design, production and sales, owns two brands, namely MYTENO (Ma Tiannu), LADANUM (A Danna) two brands, and also owns three production lines of high-end business uniform, fur and overseas business.
Wu Suiping said that at the beginning of development, the market environment of Ma Nu Nu created the clothing culture of the clothing enterprises. But he believes that the characteristics of a brand is a style characteristic, and if we want to win in the garment industry, this style characteristic must be established. So he used the fashionable clothing as a breakthrough.
The fashion and the bright style make Ma Tian - U quickly establish his own market network. But in the past few years, the development of the company has slowed down. In response, Wu Suiping said, on the one hand, it is because of personal reasons, on the other hand, Ma Tian - Na is accumulating power and brewing a new round of development.
Since 2005, Ma has adjusted the orientation of the whole position. "Following the successful positioning of" fashion dress "style by Ma Tian - Na, the classics are reinterpreted in the way of neoclassicism and positioned in fashion luxury. In terms of price positioning, Ma Tian - Na made 60% improvement in 2007, and was determined to cut down all his ADA and other mid-range brands. Meanwhile, in order to rebuild his image, he turned off 11 stores in Beijing. Now, Adan is a more high-end brand than Ma Tian Nuo. The brand entered Beijing Xinguang world in April 2011, and its monthly sales reached 1 million 20 thousand yuan. {page_break}
It seems that after a rise and fall, Ma Tian - Na has come back strong now.
In fact, the industry agreed that the clothing industry was not a traditional manufacturing industry, but a creative industry, a fashion industry and a cultural industry. The strength of culture determines the brand. In this sense, a distinctive feature of Shenzhen women's clothing is the ability to inject considerable cultural genes into the brand.
For example, Yi Hui Hui has invested heavily in the establishment of the EACHWAY Centennial Fashion Museum. This is the first museum in Shenzhen founded by a private enterprise to dress textiles as the theme. Liang Zi's "Providence" takes cultural thinking as the core, and designs the ancient poplin into a variety of modern fashions and highly environmental protection works, forming a unique silk culture system, which is unique in the Shenzhen women's clothing industry.
Zhao Huizhou, chief designer of Yi Hui fashion group, said that as international brands continue to enter the Chinese market, the impact on local brands is inevitable and competition will become increasingly fierce. This requires that Chinese local brands need to precipitate the brand culture, shape the brand soul, adhere to their beliefs on the basis of building brand culture, and let the brand itself maintain strong and lasting vitality. This is the core issue that China's local brands need to seriously consider and summarize in the context of international brand competition in the Chinese market.
As Shen Yongfang, President of Shenzhen garment industry association, said, "the development of women's clothing brands in Shenzhen to the present level, the most urgent thing is to think about the promotion of cultural connotation." {page_break}
The women's clothing industry in Shenzhen has a status in China today, which is inseparable from Shen Yongfang's persistent perseverance. In 1998, Shen Yongfang became Secretary General of Shenzhen clothing association. From then on, she became the helmsman of Shenzhen's garment industry. At the same time, she painted a clear blueprint for Shenzhen women's wear in more than 10 years.
Today, Shen Yongfang is the president of the Shenzhen clothing association. He is still working hard to map out the blueprint for the future of the industry. It is with such a warm and busy helmsman that the Shenzhen women's clothing industry is today's brilliance.
Not long ago, this reporter borrowed the machine from the Eleventh China (Shenzhen) international brand clothing and accessories fair, went down to Shenzhen two times, and had an in-depth conversation with Shen Yongfang. A panoramic scroll of the development of Shenzhen's women's clothing industry started slowly.
Reporter: the women's clothing industry in Shenzhen has been developing for more than 10 years. So, what's the status quo now?
Shen Yongfang: as we all know, Shenzhen garment industry started with "three to one patch" and "OEM production". But in my mind, there is always a firm belief that Shenzhen women's clothing must take the road of brand development. After more than 10 years of hard work, the women's clothing industry in Shenzhen has gradually formed a complete and perfect industrial system and agglomeration advantages. A large number of well-known women's clothing brands have emerged, such as "Ma Tian Nu", "Ma Fei Fei", "Song Li Si", "Ying er", "Mu Lan", "nlsi", "Providence", "Euro bran", "orchid", "lady's house", "love special love", "Lang Dai", "powder blue" and so on. At present, Shenzhen has become the "city of women's clothing in China" and has formed the industry pattern of "Chinese women's clothing watching Shenzhen". The women's clothing brand in Shenzhen has been widely recognized by the industry. Many good shopping malls in China have actively found Shenzhen brand, such as mapfield, movie and so on, and requested cooperation.
After more than 10 years of development, Shenzhen women's clothing enterprises have entered the stage of brand promotion, concept upgrading and cultural upgrading. For example, this year's Eleventh Shenzhen trade fair, Yi Zhi Hui's "Yi Hui Hui Wen Chuang Tour", from the design, culture, creativity, art, science and technology five angles interpretation of fashion, brand culture, clothing three connotation. This is a reflection of the future development of women's clothing in Shenzhen.
In recent years, Shenzhen has also stepped out of many new women's clothing brands. For example, Weiyang song, Ke Ke Er, AUM, Yan Nuo, Lu Sha and so on.
Reporter: you talked about the promotion of cultural creativity just now. Why do you think the power of culture is so important?
Shen Yongfang: the road to culture is actually a promotion of ideological taste. For example, LV has made an exhibition in National Museum of China in the past few days, with the theme of "travel of art time and space", which is LV playing the "culture card". Through this exhibition, consumers have a renewed understanding of it, and cultural propaganda has a great influence on brand promotion. Nowadays, consumers buy luxury goods, not only to buy products, but also to buy brand ideas, tastes and culture.
The development of Shenzhen women's clothing brand is now the most urgent thing to think about the promotion of cultural connotation. I used to say that only luxury brands existed abroad. But I think brands like Mass Phil are gradually developing in the direction of Chinese luxury brands. Such brands have already gained popularity and reputation in China, so in the future development, we need to further enhance their culture and services.
The development of garment industry has entered a metamorphosis period. In the past decade, China's clothing brand is learning to walk and learn to make a brand. After more than 10 years, it will enter the stage of culture, art and ideology. {page_break}
Reporter: actually, although you talked about the important role of culture in the development of Shenzhen women's clothing just now, in fact, it also includes a direction of the future development of Shenzhen women's wear brand.
Shen Yongfang: Yes. Now Shenzhen can talk about a bottleneck in terms of housing prices, land and labor costs. Someone suggested to me whether Shenzhen could also consider Vietnam, Philippines and other countries to build processing plants, which are cheaper than China, or to build factories in western regions like Yunnan and Sichuan. I think Shenzhen is at the time when manufacturing begins to flow outward.
Some of the garment export enterprises in Shenzhen are not doing very well. One of the reasons is that the exchange rate of RMB is unstable. After 3 or 5 months, the situation of enterprises is not clear. There are too many uncertainties. This situation has forced some export enterprises in Shenzhen to transform into brands. Now they are worried about not transforming.
In addition, I think China is a manufacturing power, and industrial upgrading is inevitable and necessary, but it can not be done without manufacturing. Fashion industry can not be short of manufacturing, and manufacturing can create brand.
The ordering system of shopping malls in China will surely develop. Next, we will make a small order exhibition to let the shopping mall order the goods of export enterprises. I can't see many export enterprises die. It is not easy for independent brands to survive, and the survival of export enterprises is not easy. We must support the development of manufacturing industry.
At the same time, we have been advocating an idea that love brand is patriotism.
Reporter: you talk about what is "love brand is patriotism".
Shen Yongfang: many small and medium sized brands in China are relatively fragile, and are carelessly buried by the current business. Nowadays, all kinds of commercial rules are not conducive to brand development. In fact, the mall should cooperate with the brand to win a win-win situation, rather than the pure land rental market to the brand, the mall should divestiture this "two landlord" role.
As we all know, Paris's Champs Elysee Avenue is very famous in the world. There are many luxury stores on this street. It is most commendable to leave the best position on the street to the brand of its own country, the enterprise only costs 10% to 20% of the rent, and the remaining 80% to 90% is subsidized by the government. I think our government should also provide some support and protection measures to its own brand. South Korea also advocates "fiber to serve the country". They are proud of wearing their own brands. We should learn something good from the exchange of international brands, such as design, concept, innovation, etc., but we must not just worship foreigners.
At the same time, we have always believed that domestic shopping centres should also leave the best position in the field to Chinese brands, and we must protect China's own brands. If the mall has no sense of pattern innovation and no cooperation and win win, it will not be easy to go after shopping mall.
Reporter: in the future, what are the plans of the association to further promote the development of women's clothing industry in Shenzhen?
Shen Yongfang: in the future, we will continue to let Shenzhen's women's wear brand go out to Britain, the United States and other countries to participate in the fashion week, and further strengthen exchanges and cooperation with the international fashion circle. On this year's Clothing Fair, JOHN, the director of London Fashion Week, also showed up. I took him to a brand enterprise and asked him to select brand products that could enter the foreign market. In September this year, we will go to London again to attend London Fashion week.
At the same time, we will continue to run the annual Shenzhen trade fair as always and promote the development of Shenzhen's garment industry. During the "12th Five-Year" period, the trade fair should be transformed from the "exhibition" emphasizing the function of Commerce to the "Convention and Exhibition" that led the innovation of the industrial concept.
Actively promote the development of garment industry gathering base in Shenzhen. The gathering base is located in Baoan District, Shenzhen, with a total planned area of 1 million 460 thousand square meters. After the completion of the base, it will become a representative of the transformation and upgrading of Shenzhen's traditional industries, a representative of the advanced manufacturing industry, a representative of creative industries and high-end brands.
Besides, we plan to set up a fashion Institute. At home, we have been in contact with some universities in Xi'an and other places and abroad to talk about cooperation with California University of the United States. The clothing Institute is completely private and has been planning for many years. Now its main building is closing down, and three dormitories have been built. Students in the school, 80% of the time is practice, and involves every process of clothing must learn, the school will also have the system of foreign exchange students.
Interviewer: your time in Shenzhen is very long. In the meantime, what is your greatest feeling?
Shen Yongfang: everything needs to be upheld. I have been in this industry for ten years, and I have moved all the leaders, so they are very supportive of me. Although this road is hard, there is more energy in it, but I firmly believe that what I have to do can be done.
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