Fashion Circle Faces Big Changes
Every industry is an ecosystem, but when it comes to the most
frequently
Replacement is one of the fashion circles.
In this world that has broken through the old and new system every six months, there has been a huge wave of personnel recently. From brand design director to company management senior editor and magazine editor, all of them have been exchanged for blood.
It was a series of departures and concentration that brought us a lot of amazement or expectation.
This change has broken the long-term stability of European fashion.
Several luxuries
group
At least 5 major brand creative directors have been fired or quit, and at least 10 designers have been rumored to take over these 5 posts.
Until now, the candidate of Dior's creative director is still a mystery. The latest news is how unexpected is Mark Jacques, the creative director of LV, to take over.
The Balmain brand has also announced that it will replace the Christophe Decarnin from its original design team, Olivier Rousteing, as the main designer.
Brands such as Gianfranco Ferr, Cacharel, Azzaro, Kenzo and Trussardi also say they are looking for new design leaders.
Some designers or senior executives have to give up their positions because of their old age. Some of them are not qualified because of personnel conflicts. Some of them are married and have no children to love, but of course, the most important thing to ignore is the failure of the "market test". Even in the pressure of the fashion industry, even if your design is being punished by the "devil's head", you will not let the "uninvited" you stay for a long time.
Jean-Jacques Picart, a fashion industry consultant, said: "this change has swept and shook the fashion industry.
Some brands are eager to get rid of those who can't bring customers in.
shop
The designer in it. "
Is this frequent concussion, is it a good thing or a bad thing?
Tancr Paris De De Lalun, a sales manager for women's wear department stores in spring, said that the shuffle shuffle of the high fashion house is a regular change of periodicity, but this change caused the "Domino effect" and amplified its influence.
In his view, the return of the two digit growth rate of luxury goods has given the big brands a new lease of life, no matter whether they are brand strategies or creative talents.
Ed Burstell, general manager of Liberty department store, said, "designers are not good enough for you to sing my debut."
Retailers will not vote for brands with frequent changes in their personnel. They always maintain a unified opinion with their customers, and customers always have their own preferences.
Look at the top fashion houses such as Burberry and Chanel, all of which insist on the established fashion.
brand
Strategy. "
In a recent column of the International Herald guide, Sue Seaman Keith, a famous fashion critic, also sighed: "today's different times, we are in a new and old pitional level. It seems that anything is likely to happen when you wake up on the second day, but bad news sometimes happens to a beautiful thing." Suzy Menkes.
Most powerful
Mark Jakob upper Dior?
Ever since the Paris fashion week in March, Christian Dior has dismissed all the news from the star designer John Galiano who has been involved in the scandals of anti racism scandals.
The first thing to emerge is the speculation that Givenchy Riccardo Riccardo Tisci may succeed. The candidate is Alexander McQueen's current candidate.
Design
Director, because of the new princess Kate Middleton designed a wedding dress and exploded overnight, Sara Burton (Sarah Burton).
It seems that Bernard Arnott, chairman of LVMH luxury group, still wants to find a star designer for Dior internally.
According to the latest news, he is talking with Mark Jakob, LV's creative director, Marc Jacobs, hoping that he will be the creative director of Dior brand.
If you talk about success with Mark Jacques, Then Jacob will leave the most profitable brand Louis Vuitton of LVMH group, which is likely to bring a series of personnel pfers under the group.
Phebe Philo Philo, the designer of the Celine brand, is likely to succeed Mark Jakob as the creative director of Louis Vuitton brand, Phoebe.
The source said the arrangement was not yet fully established, but the Dior team was very excited about the arrangement.
Mark Jakob has been the creative director of Louis Vuitton brand since 1997. At present, he is facing the choice of re signing the contract with LVMH group, and Dior will undoubtedly provide him with another option.
It is said that when Bernard Arnott planned to hire a star designer in 90s, he arranged for Mark Jakob to be the creative director of the Dior brand. At that time, Francois Baufume, chairman of Dior, disagreed with the arrangement, which was not realized.
The most astute
Ralph Lauren's nephew
For David Lauren (David Lauren), recently, it is indeed a double blessing.
He announced his engagement to the niece and model Lauren Bush of former US President Bush, and just finished celebrating at a farm on Hampton. He immediately received the promotion notice and became his best gift to his fiancee.
This year's 71 year old fashion designer Ralph Lauren (Ralph Lauren) has decided to quit her job and give CEO to David Lauren, who is also his nephew.
David is the Ralph Lauren brand.
implement
Vice president is also the only one among the relatives who work in his company.
Ralph Lauren is not only an excellent designer, but also a successful businessman. His entrepreneurial experience has become the driving force of many young designers.
Over the years, he has worked strategizing, and has successfully listed the company 13 years ago. Today, the share price of retail sales has reached US $12 billion.
Quarterly financial statements also show that the company's total sales increased 33.3% this quarter, which is good news for investors.
Recently, the company has just held an annual meeting. The shareholders voted to change the company name from the original Polo Ralph Lauren to Ralph Lauren, which means that the brand image of the brand will no longer be used in the future.
Ralph Lauren, who is going to retire to go home and reborn for a long time, said that he could not predict and predict the future direction of the brand, but the only thing he could be sure of was that David would play a very important role in it.
Most abrupt
The talented female assistant turned over
What is meant by accumulation?
Look at Sara Burton, who has worked in obscurity for more than 10 years at Alexander McQueen. Even after MacQeen died, she remained obscure. Until an official announcement was issued, her name immediately became a high frequency discussion in the circle.
According to a friend who had returned to work in MacQeen's studio after a period of time, after the suicide of MacQeen, the staff of various departments of the brand had already left, which verifies a sentence of "walking tea cool" by Saint Martin.
Under such circumstances, Sara withstood pressure and finished the series left behind by MacQeen in just a few weeks.
smoothly
At the time of the exhibition, many media had already wiped out tears for MacQeen and applauded Sara.
In May 22nd this year, MacQeen's left and right hand Sara Burton officially became the creative director of the brand. Whether it was chairman of the Alexander McQueen brand and CEO Jonathan Akeroyd, or Gucci group brand chairman and CEO Robert Polet (the parent company of McQueen brand), they all praised Sara's design talent and leadership ability.
Not long ago, the wedding dress of the princess of England brought Sara a fire. People saw the new man's ability.
Most suitable
"No seats" designers find new destination
Olivier Theyskens (Olivier Theyskens), who became famous in the first World War of Rochas brand, can be said to have a frustrate fate. She has design talent but does not want to cater to the market. This leads to the fact that after moving to Nina Ricci, she still can not reverse the declining trend of "applause not to win" with the illusion of elegant elegance.
This time, he returned to the fashion world and joined hands with Theory, a brand known for its simplicity and elegance. From the original elegant chiffon dress to the design of a simple and professional women's wear, how many people feel a little uncomfortable.
Some people have dubbed this combination as an "alternative dream", because senior office workers can also afford to wear the clothes designed by Olivier.
Of course, if THEORY can not help improve sales performance, Olivier Theyskens still can not avoid the reality of unemployment.
So I still hope that he can closely combine his design talents with the market, and make some "applause and applause" design for Theory, so as to stabilize his career.
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